Windstar :: 2002 - Low RPM While Idling / Slow Acceleration And Hard Shifting
Jan 21, 2016
I have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
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I've had my Scion xb since 22,000 miles. It's now 127,000 miles and I am having the first big issue.....or maybe. My husband thinks that it's something simple and an easy fix like a relay. We drove it on the highway in the morning and intermittently throughout the day, parked it for 3 hours and then started driving again. Three lights came on VSC, Check Engine, Trac Off and then it started accelerating slower than usual up hills and idling extremely low. We stopped and checked the oil level - at the 1/2 way mark and not due for a change yet. Feels like it might stall - it hasn't yet. It definitely climbs hills much slower than it has in the past but this is nerve-wrecking - especially when there are no mechanics working on the weekend.
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I have a 2007 Passat wagon 4 motion V6 and what the problem is I am getting a rough shift between 3-4 gear sometimes, usually on a slow acceleration. I have had the valve body replaced which worked for a couple of months until the problem returned. I then had the transmission replaced which worked a little but the rough shifting is still present at times. The car still has warranty and not even the dealership knows what to do?
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2002 Ford Escape XLS 5 Speed, My timing belt was just replaced along with the timing idler pulley, timing belt tensioner, serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley, spark plugs, and valve cover gasket. It drove great yesterday but this morning when I was taking my son to school the engine started knocking. It does this idling and at slow speeds. Once driving the noise disappears. What this may be?
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I recently bought a 2002 VW Passat 2 weeks ago. I love the car and the drive, but the acceleration is excellent at times, and very slow at times. Also the car gives me a stutter step every once in a while while at low speeds....I bought the car in Mass so I have 13 days left for the dealer warranty. What it is?
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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I have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
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My 2002 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 is shifting hard from first to second. It has 120,000 miles on it. Should I do a filter and fluid change or just work with the bands?
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The Accent has been working great recently until the other day when I got in to go to work and now it suddenly shifts very hard into 2nd. And sometimes 3rd.
This problem seems to come and go. Sometimes it will shift smoothly. Other times it will have to reach super high rpm and I will have to let off the gas and slowly accelerate to get it to shift. This seems to happen throughout all the gears and it does not make any difference if overdrive is turned on or off. Also reverse works just fine.
I checked the fluid and it is at the proper level. It does seem to be a little dirty (not burnt) so I am planning on changing the transmission fluid, but something tells me that is not going to solve this issue. It seems like an electrical issue to me. What it could be?
There are no codes at all on the car. Don't know if it matters but the car just turned over to 100k miles. I've been reading on here about all the problems the automatic trannys have in this car but 100k seems a bit early to have any serious transmission problems.
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When I bought my ranger used, the clutch felt ok. But as a couple weeks had passed, it started to get hard to shift. The clutch doesn't slip at all so a friend of mine said there might be air in the system.
I would pump the clutch pedal a few times and then it would shift ok for a while, then back to shifting hard. I found the bleeder and had my son assist me with bleeding the system. Everything was fine at first but I made a big mistake and now i have no pedal feel at all.
My mistake was i didn't realize what I thought was the reservoir was not the actual reservoir. There was a black rubber thing in the reservoir that I filled with fluid. My mistake was I needed to take out this black rubber thing.
So now i am stuck with no pedal and don't know what to do. When I pulled out the black rubber thing, the reservoir was empty so i filled it and it bubbled for a second and then stopped. Tried pedal at this point and there is no feel at all. It just goes to floor with no effort.
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar and the A/C has started blowing hot when i idle but it blows cold when I am driving. I had the compressor replaced back in February and the pressure is normal so it doesn't look like it has a system leak. If I am at a traffic light, I can put the van in neutral and press the gas and it will start blowing cold again. Since I just spent $1300 a few months ago when my compressor seized, I really hope it is not an expensive fix.
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My 2002 1.8L 60K miles is making a loud woooshhh noise during hard acceleration. The noise seems to be coming from the engine, but it might be coming from under the car. I have a manual tranny, and this happens in all gears. There is no noise during idle, and no noise during mild acceleration.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with a 1.5L SOHC and manual transmission, with 207,000 trouble-free miles on it.
I have recently noticed a hesitation under acceleration. It happens most frequently under hard acceleration under lower RPM, if I'm close to lugging the engine. The engine "hiccups," almost like it is missing a cylinder. It will hiccup 2-3 times until engine RPM's increase, then smooths out.
What the cause may be? Last changes: Plugs at 175K; Plug wires @ 160K, Fuel filter @ 100K, Timing belts at 60K, 120K, 182k. K&N air filter cleaned at 50K intervals, last time @ 200K.
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Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
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I have a 2002 ford f250 with the 7.3l diesel. I recently installed a ts performance chip. On my pcm. And after i first tried all the different stages I didn't like how my transmission was shifting hard. So I contacted the manufacturer and he told me they could reprogram the chip for smoother shifting. So I removed the pcm and removed the chip. But when I went to reinstall the pcm I bent one of the pins on the pcm some how.
So I took it back out and straightened the pin with pliers . i reinstalled it back in the truck. Only to find when I reattached the battery cable I have no power to anything ignition ,horn, lights,Cigarette lighter etc. So my question is if the pcm is bad, or not contacting properly due to the pin being messed up. would that have anything to do with the lights and horn and all that? I suspect its the gem bsm or Vsm. Whichever one my truck has. But really not sure because everything worked fine just 20 min b4.
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I have been having hard shifting from 1st-2nd when cold. Rpms up to 2000 and let off then goes into 2nd. After that, she shifts fine and shifts well until next morning when she sits overnight. Build tag is August 09, 2001, so no old mechanical diode? Took a sample of fluid and it is dark red (pic attached) and smells like hydraulic fluid...I don't think it smells burned. Does it sound like the calve body 1-2 shift or solenoid pack or needing rebuild?
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diagnose a problem with their 1995 Ford Windstar. The van slowly dies when idling. It runs for a few seconds after being jumped and then the dash lights slowly dim after which the van stops running. We replaced the battery and the van ran for about a day or so without issue. However, the problem is back. I suspected the alternator was faulty, so we pulled it and took it to a parts store to be bench tested. It was tested twice and passed both times. Does this sound like an alternator problem? Could there be an issue with the battery cables? What else might be causing this?
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I had a spark plug break on me and it caused a misfire. I took it in and the mechanic replaced all spark plugs and wires. After getting the car back, I experience an occasional engine hiccup here and there. Took it back to the mechanic and told me that he cleaned off the valves of carbon build up. This did not alleviate the current symptoms. It is more noticeable while I am idling. It feels like a jolt. It appears to be worse after a cold start. I do not have a check engine light or do I notice the RPM needle go wild. What is the mechanic missing? What could still be wrong with the engine? Vehicle is a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE, 6cyl, 3.8L ....
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2002 F350 single wheel 4x4, 280k miles chipped with a 6
My problem first started when the bottom of my sending unit broke off in tank causing me to run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. I dropped tank and repaired. A week later I noticed fuel dampness on my tank and discovered I crossthreaded cap on sending unit. About this time I started getting a shutter at slight acceleration only and a harder hit at idle. I thought air in lines so I dropped tank and reassembled. No air in line at all now but I still have a shutter so I replaced fuel filter in case of obstruction. No luck. Now since I have owned truck it has been a pain to crank in cold weather if it wasn't plugged in over night. It has been hard lately even in moderate weather since shutter started so I replaced both batteries today.
I replaced the ICP today also because I noticed the other day when there was oil on and around harness to it and when I unplugged it today the truck changed idle and there was oil inside. After I changed it I took it out and it still had the shutter and sound of a miss. At about 8 miles in it just died going down the road. I coasted to the side and it cranked right back up and drove home. The shutter doesn't fill as bad but there. Also I live in the mountains and on my way home after cutoff I had chip in Stock position and had to put peddle to the floor to climb hill. I've never had to do that. I'm getting worried I work for a living and caint keep throwing money at it aimlessly. I'm thinking at this point IPR or CPS. But I'm no mechanic so I could be completely wrong.
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I have a 1998 windstar with a 3.8. I took my daughter Christmas shopping and noticed the car did not want to shift out of first gear. I shifted it manually to second and then DRIVE and that worked until I stopped at a light. I took off in DRIVE and the car did shift to second and third on its own but it shifted late and hard. Also, the speedometer quit working and the overdive light on the shifter just turned on by itself and then went out. By the time we got home, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light was on. All these symptoms happened in a relatively short amount of time (5 miles). I suspect something electrical but am not sure. Is there a speed sensor fuse on these cars?
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I have a 2001 Ford Windstar SE. 220,000 miles. A few months back it started missing ... I drove it like that just local for a few days but then I was leaving town for about a month and just parked it. After I got back I changed the plugs and all was fine on the test drive (ran perfect ... fixed the misfire). What has happened since then has been frustrating. Althought it runs great, now it stalls randomly and always when it's under acceleration and usually going up slight or a bit steeper hills (think So Cal terrain). It doesn't jerk or miss or sputter ... it just cuts out.
If you try to turn the engine over without turning the key off it won't start. Turn off the key then turn it on and it starts like nothing ever happened. No codes whatsoever. Sometimes you can drive it for 30 to 50 miles or more and have no problems at all, then all of a sudden it will stall in an area that it had no problems with over the previous week or so. It seems to stall out at about the time it wants to shift from 1st to 2nd or from 2nd to 3rd ... or at least that general rpm or accelerator pedal position. It's happened with light acceleration and heavy (pulling a long hill) acceleration. Never at idle or decelerating or just cruising on a flat piece of roadway ... never. It also seems the pedal needs to be at a constant position (not pushing down or letting up but just at a certain position under acceleration). I've had my mechanic with me 3 different times and each time it never stalled with him along. Fuel pressure was fine when he checked it (while driving).
Once in a while it will cut out (just enough to notice) then cut right back in and keep running but most of the time it just cuts out and that's it. I've changed the camshaft sensor, the crankshaft sensor, the PCM relay, the fuel pump relay, the throttle position sensor and the fuel filter. I'm hoping to set it up next week where if it stalls I can call the mechanic and have him come over to where I am and see if a code comes up (and check the fuel pressure also) without me turning it off (since that seems to reset whatever the problems is).
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