Windstar :: 2002 - Intermittent Thumping Noise In Engine
Nov 9, 2015
My 02 Windstar has developed an intermittent thumping noise in the engine. A bit of history: She has been sitting for a few months because she was throwing a P303 code that I could not track down. Here in IL, you cannot renew your plates until you pass an emissions check, and you cannot pass the check if a code is stored.
Well, I got a warning ticket for expired plates, and I had my daughter's car as alternate transportation while she is in the Peace Corps, so I parked Mr. Breeze, intending to get to her on the weekend. Except for throwing the code and gas mileage being a bit down, she was running fine when I parked her.
Well, life happened, and I never seemed to be able to put the time aside, but now winter is coming and I don't want to subject her ride to the snow, so I made time and replaced the coil, plugs, and wires. But when I started her up, there is an intermittent thumping noise in the engine compartment.
I have double checked the wires, and I think I have them right. As I understand it, the right bank plug wires go on the coil towers 1,2,3. and the left bank wires go on the towers 6,5,4. Is that right?
I made a short video so you could hear it, but it is too big to upload, so here's a YouTube : [URL] .....
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My 2002 Ford Windstar Van needs a rebuilt transmission. The chain, according to my mechanic, may quit at any time (the van makes a grinding noise going up inclines). In 2005 my van had the transmission rebuilt (it totally quit on me driving). It currently has 200, 030 miles on it. I've checked around and the best estimate for a rebuilt transmission. Is it worth keeping? Repairing? If not, do I try selling it (for what amount?)?
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I have a 2002 explorer 2wd. I am trying to find an answer for this thumping noise as I accelerate. My first thought was a tire. I took them to be checked and had one replaced but all are good and less than 5k miles on them. I feel it in the pedals and in the steering wheel. The repetitive sound increasing with speed. I have, in the last 2 weeks, changed front rotors and pads with no difference in sound but good brakes now. And today replaced the drivers side upper ball joint and the front ds wheel hub assy. And no difference. What may be the problem?
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After 3 months of complaining my wife finally got me in the van to do some errands. We came to a stop at a stop light and I hear this jack hammer noise start, lasts about 3 seconds and trails off. I am looking around the intersection, which is under construction, looking for a jack hammer and my wife says that's the noise that I have been talking about. This noise only occurs when the car is at a standstill after braking and recently happened twice when my wife stopped, released the brake and applied it again. The problem is getting progressively worse.Our mechanic's opinion is that is is a rpm sensor on one of the wheels which is sending a false signal to the ABS system to activate. Another opinion is that the master cylinder has moisture in it and needs to be flushed.This car has about 125m miles. What so I try first?
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My brother has an 02 ford escape that he bought cheap because it needed a transmission. He just replaced the transmission in it as well as tie rod ends, front axles, axle bushings and seals. The front pads and rotors are new and the tires were just rotated. Now when you are going 15mph and up and are on the accelerator there is a severe shaking as you accelerate and a loud thumping noise. If you let off the accelerator it goes away. If you get it going fast enough it will shake so bad the mirrors will shake. He is a ford mechanic but said he is having a hard time pin pointing what it could be . He took me for a ride. He said he has had other mechanics look at it but they can't figure it out.
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So I had a serious runability problem back in 2012 with code P0302 (misfire in cylinder 2) and the car was barely running. I changed the spark plugs, which didn't fix the issues. Then changed the coil, which fixed it. URL...But I was a little lazy back in September 2012, the old spark plug wires looked like they were still in great shape, so I left the old wires on. I think they were the original factory wires, they had the numbers of each cylinder printed on the side. Very nice wires!
Fast-forward to the present. Car starts running poorly with a blinking check-engine light. Not good! I check the code and it is P0306, misfire in cylinder 6. So my first thought was: OK, probably time to change the spark plug wires!I changed the spark plug wires. I purchased AutoLite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto Parts, part 97047. URL...Sure enough, the number 6 wire looked like it had a little corrosion inside the end that connects to the spark plug wire. It looked like I was on the right track! Changed the spark plug wires, and ran it. It still sounded like it might be missing on one cylinder. Just a quiet ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch at idle. I took it for a test drive. It ran OK at low RPM's, but had no power. When I tested some hard acceleration, sure enough the check engine light came back on. Tested the code and it was P0306 again. Conclusion: not fixed yet.
OK, maybe the spark plug wire was the problem, just the plug got fouled because the wire was bad. I purchased a replacement spark plug for that cylinder only. AutoLite Double Platinum as recommended elsewhere in this forum. Removed the old plug. I'm no expert, but the old plug looked fine to me. Installed the new plug. Tested it again. Still sounded like missing at idle ch-ch-ch-ch-ch. Test drive, OK with low RPM, no power. Tried hard acceleration, got the blinking CEL again. Conclusion: still not fixed - darn it!
Now remember, I just changed the coil back in September 2012. I had replaced it with a coil from AutoZone. The first coil had lasted ten years. So it couldn't be the coil again this soon, right? But... just to be sure, I went ahead and changed the coil again. I called AutoZone and happily it was still under warranty. The previous coil I had purchased came with a 24-month warranty, and I was on month 23 !!! Sweet!AutoZone also told me if I did a warranty replacement of the coil, the new one would come with a lifetime warranty instead.The part number of the coil at AutoZone was part C1312, Duralast Ignition Coil.
Before installing the new coil, I put a little Dielectric grease around the top inside of each connector on the new coil (7 total, six spark plug wires plus the electrical connector). I think this was recommended in my Haynes or Chilton manuals.I am a tall skinny guy with long skinny arms. So I was able to replace the coil without removing the cowl. Last time I had to remove the cowl (to do the intake manifold isolator bolt repair) the cowl had cracked, also some of the clips holding it down broke. So I didn't want to remove the cowl unless necessary. It turns out with my long skinny arms I can lay up over the motor and reach back around both sides of the intake manifold to reach the coil. It is a reach, but it was possible for me to do the job that way.
I removed the three bolts holding the old coil in place. Then I was able to slide the new coil back in there, around the driver's side of the intake manifold. I transferred over the spark plug wires one by one from old to new (as recommended by another poster) so I wouldn't get confused which was which. It worked well to transfer the rear three first. That hold the new coil near the correct location, and gave me more slack to move the old coil further out of the way.Next step was to remove the wire connector from the rear of the coil pack. It didn't want to release. I looked at the old part (from 2012!!!) and there was a little plastic nub back there to lock the connector in place. It looked like there was room to work in a small screwdriver back there to release the lock. So I wiggled a short flat-head screwdriver in back there (with a wide head) and it released. Then I was able to easily remove the connector.
Then I had more slack to move the old coil further out of the way, toward the drivers side and front of the vehicle. And then transferred the last three spark plug wires to the new coil.Then to secure the new coil in place, I carefully installed one bolt by hand, leaving it loose to allow for final adjustments of position. Installed the second and third bolts loosely. Tightened the three bolts finger tight using a short (3") extension and 7mm socket (1/4" drive). Then snugged them very gently using my small 1/4" rachet. The small 1/4" rachet was a perfect fit using the 3" inch extension and the small 7mm socket. Remember you just want the bolts snug, do not over-tighten them.
When I went back to AutoZone to process the warranty return, they had to do some fancy work with their computer to get me the lifetime warranty on the new coil. By default it would just assume the rest of the original coil warranty from 2012 - which was just about to expire. So they made it right for me - but only because I specifically asked about it. By default, the guy had already rung it up their "normal" way, which would not have extended the warranty for me.Another thing that was strange was back in September 2012 when I replaced the original coil, it had worked well for ten years or so! Also, the bottom of it was clearly cracked, so it was easy to see that it had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
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2002 Ford Windstar: Whenever I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it, I get this hum that sounds like the CD player preparing to play a CD. There is no CD in the player. It last for about 30 seconds and then stops. Afterwards, my check engine light comes on and stay on until I have the mechanic reset the alarm. The battery is new. My meter shows that the battery is giving out enough volts. It annoys me to have the check engine light on all of the time. I'd rather it be off so it can report if something else goes wrong with the engine.
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I have a 1997 Voyager that I am having a thumping noise that is coming from a black module that is mounted in the engine compartment over the passenger side fenderwell. It has 2 vacuum lines and an electrical connection coming off of it, one of the vacuum lines has a tag on it that says EVAP. The engine seems to be running fine, although every now and then it seems like it might idle a bit rough, and there are no CEL on or codes in the computer. Don't know what is this module called.
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I have a new (to me) '97 Windstar with 128K +. C.E.L. is on and intermittently flashing. The code reads P0302 (Cylinder 2 Mis-fire). No other codes are set. Have cleared them many times and gone through multiple drive cycles.
Description of issue: After clearing the codes, and indeed upon each startup, the car starts and idles smoothly without hesitation or issue. It pulls away from parked position without issue. Appears to accelerate just fine. In stop-and-go traffic or directly onto the highway it seems to run smoothly without problem. After a period of time (I don't believe it to be consistent), it will start to misfire and the C.E.L. will be set. If it is still misfiring, the light will flash.
Here's the weird part...when stopping at a traffic light or just continuing to drive on the highway, the misfire will resolve and the car will run smoothly again. The C.E.L., trailing the condition by a bit, will go to solid from flashing and will remain that way until a little farther down the road. The misfire never seems to be more than one cylinder and the trouble code seems to bear that out. Just idling, the car will return to smooth operation and it seems to have smooth acceleration. In other words, the misfire seems to go away under acceleration.
What I've done: I've replaced plugs and wires. No change. Replaced Coil pack. No change.
Next steps: Next steps seem to be looking to fuel or air. My concern with that approach is the occasional nature of the problem. Compression problems would be consistent across the board, right? That cylinder would always be a problem. Same thing for fuel (fuel pump and/or filter). All cylinders would have the problem and it would have issues starting. OK, next thing--injector. Would an injector have spotty performance like this? Also, could it be related to the EGR ports on the intake on this vintage Windstar? (Once again, is an intermittent problem consistent?) Finally, since the primary circuit for spark is controlled by a PCM pin setting a ground for each cylinder, could the PCM, or wiring, be the culprit?
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Over the last few days my f150 has developed a really annoying squeal that's intermittent. I can never really predict when Ill hear it. Usually I first hear it when I am accelerating to a speed greater than 30 or 40 mph. And it will continue if i keep my foot on the gas or if i slowly hit the brakes. Usually the only way it will stop is if I slow down to under roughly 30 or if i hit the brakes. pretty hard.
But sometimes Ill hear it at various speeds just for a second or two, usually when I am turning or when I am decelerating by taking my foot off the gas and not braking. again its hard to predict. It sounds really similar to a car with squeaky brakes. and just like squeaky brakes, you can hear the noise slow down as the f150 slows down. but again it doesnt only happen when i hit the brakes. I dont know what it is.
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My recently acquire 2002 has intermittent leaking/hissing periods when the engine is engaged. I have the sound of air leaking or being moved. I hear the individual stokes of the engine, I don't feel any missing in power, No light comes on. After around 60 to 90 seconds of driving, quicker if I press the accelerator the sound has gone away. I wonder what I can do to check this out, I have not been able to pinpoint the area it comes from other than the engine area.
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey that is making an intermitent buzzing noise that appears to be coming from the dashboard. It sounds like an old speedometer going bad but this car should have a computerized speedometer. It appears to be weather related as it does not happen in the winter. When it happens, the buzzing is reduced if you slow down the car a bit. It can vary in intensity and can get very loud. I took the car to the dealer and they want to take the dashboard off....
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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We have an '02 Toyota Camry with about 92,000 miles on it that is making a weird intermittent "Whooping" noise. The sound starts low and then goes high. It seems to come from the dashboard or the steering column I think.
A guy at the parts store said he thought it might be radiator core going bad, but admitted it's hard to know without him hearing it.
I've tried to record the "Whooping" sound but obviously the car never makes it when I'm trying to do this or can be easily heard on a recording. Additionally we took it to a mechanic and they didn't hear anything!
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3. I was driving home from work on Tuesday (highway), I heard an intermittent noise coming from the front end, sounded like a rubbing/grinding noise. Yesterday on my way to wok, same thing, on and off. Yesterday on my way home the noise was constant, didn't go away. The noise comes at about 45mph and stays until I'm back under about 45mph, so mainly just on the highway. I put the truck in neutral and let off the pedal and the noise is still there which tells me it isn't engine related.
Yesterday after work I jacked up the front end, spun the tires, no noise. No play in the tires top/bottom or side/side. Took the tires off and what I did notice is the right axle u-joint is shot. I am hearing the noise in 2wd so I don't know if its the u-joint that's making the noise. Could it be a bad wheel hub bearing? Is it the u-joint? Maybe needle bearing??
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mY 2002 Windstar abs & brake lights come on after driving a while. would it be ABS module?
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar, mileage 61,234, garage kept and in excellent condition.On 6/30/12, I went to take the car out but the system was completely dead. We put a charge on the battery overnight to no avail. We then replaced with a new battery and it started right up (7/1/12). The car ran well until 7/18/12 (17 days) when the system again was completely dead.
This time I had the car towed to the Ford garage where they kept it for 2 days and could not find a problem. They installed another new battery (charging parts and labor). The car drove well again until 8/15/12 (less than a month) when the stsyem was dead again.
The car was towed back to the Ford garage and kept for another 2 days. They said the electrical system was checked completely and they could find nothing wrong. They put a charge on their battery and told me to drive the car at least twice a week. That's where we stand at this time.
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2002 Windstar A/C problem. Blows cold in the rear but not the front. Blend door actuator in the front is operating properly. Compressor cycles on and off but not excessively. When temp levers in full warm air blows to floor but it is not warm. Compressor runs even when the A/C on/off switch is in the off position. Indicator light is off but compressor still runs. Condensate puddles on floor in rear but none in front under vehicle.
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar. Just replaced a TPS, went to town was coming back home, and all of a sudden it started to spit and sputter while in gear. But, in neutral she runs alright. I use mid-grade gas. I put in two cans of Seafoam in the tank. Wrecker operator smelled the exhaust and told me the it was too rich. My question is and this sounds stupid, could the previous owner. Had never replaced the fuel filter or if they did replaced it, that it was installed backwards. I drove it almost 20 miles before it died. I figured that the fuel in the gas line emptied and it refuse to go. And since it only runs good without strain on the engine...
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Have been attempting to locate the source of thumping or clunking sound similar to that of bad shock, but too date haven't been able to pinpoint the source....
Have low mileage 2002 Sierra SLE that has a body noise that haven't been able to locate. The sound is similar to a bad shock....Replaced the front shock.....which wasn't 2 years old...and then the noise reappeared again....Have checked the wheels and motor mount...but so far no luck....
It seems to be worse in cooler weather and is reproduced when driving over an uneven surface or hitting a bump....The clunk is intermittent...Sometimes you will get the noise driving over a bump....sometimes not......The noise seems to be originating on the driver front quadrant....but i maybe wrong....
Have had mechanic check the truck on a hoist, but can't find anything out of order...no tire wear...wheels are solid with no play...nothing out of the ordinary that we can see....Tried moving the body by hand..but can't reproduce the "clunk".....
Even after 14 years the truck is solid ...and no rattles or noises until now......Guess i'm just a nit picker...but would like to locate the source......
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I just bought an '02 Passat with 42k miles on it. I didn't notice it when I test drove it but now I'm hearing a knocking/thumping sound from the front end that goes to the speed of the wheels at slow speeds (10-30mph). I can also feel it pulse when I use the brakes at slow speeds. What this might be?
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