Windstar :: 2002 - After Driving A While ABS And Brake Light Come On
May 5, 2014
mY 2002 Windstar abs & brake lights come on after driving a while. would it be ABS module?
View 10 RepliesmY 2002 Windstar abs & brake lights come on after driving a while. would it be ABS module?
View 10 RepliesI recently had a Car alarm/remote start installed in my van and it seems that every now and then my ABS Light and Parking Brake Light come on while driving but if i shut the van off the lights all go out and don't come back on for a few days then it's the same thing. I also changed the front brakes right before i had the install done so i don't know maybe i did something or maybe it was the shop i am thinking it was the shop as they seemed pretty incompetent and could not to this day (3 weeks/19hrs shop time (8hr+3hr+8hrs)) get the alarm to function right.
View 8 RepliesSo I had a serious runability problem back in 2012 with code P0302 (misfire in cylinder 2) and the car was barely running. I changed the spark plugs, which didn't fix the issues. Then changed the coil, which fixed it. URL...But I was a little lazy back in September 2012, the old spark plug wires looked like they were still in great shape, so I left the old wires on. I think they were the original factory wires, they had the numbers of each cylinder printed on the side. Very nice wires!
Fast-forward to the present. Car starts running poorly with a blinking check-engine light. Not good! I check the code and it is P0306, misfire in cylinder 6. So my first thought was: OK, probably time to change the spark plug wires!I changed the spark plug wires. I purchased AutoLite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto Parts, part 97047. URL...Sure enough, the number 6 wire looked like it had a little corrosion inside the end that connects to the spark plug wire. It looked like I was on the right track! Changed the spark plug wires, and ran it. It still sounded like it might be missing on one cylinder. Just a quiet ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch at idle. I took it for a test drive. It ran OK at low RPM's, but had no power. When I tested some hard acceleration, sure enough the check engine light came back on. Tested the code and it was P0306 again. Conclusion: not fixed yet.
OK, maybe the spark plug wire was the problem, just the plug got fouled because the wire was bad. I purchased a replacement spark plug for that cylinder only. AutoLite Double Platinum as recommended elsewhere in this forum. Removed the old plug. I'm no expert, but the old plug looked fine to me. Installed the new plug. Tested it again. Still sounded like missing at idle ch-ch-ch-ch-ch. Test drive, OK with low RPM, no power. Tried hard acceleration, got the blinking CEL again. Conclusion: still not fixed - darn it!
Now remember, I just changed the coil back in September 2012. I had replaced it with a coil from AutoZone. The first coil had lasted ten years. So it couldn't be the coil again this soon, right? But... just to be sure, I went ahead and changed the coil again. I called AutoZone and happily it was still under warranty. The previous coil I had purchased came with a 24-month warranty, and I was on month 23 !!! Sweet!AutoZone also told me if I did a warranty replacement of the coil, the new one would come with a lifetime warranty instead.The part number of the coil at AutoZone was part C1312, Duralast Ignition Coil.
Before installing the new coil, I put a little Dielectric grease around the top inside of each connector on the new coil (7 total, six spark plug wires plus the electrical connector). I think this was recommended in my Haynes or Chilton manuals.I am a tall skinny guy with long skinny arms. So I was able to replace the coil without removing the cowl. Last time I had to remove the cowl (to do the intake manifold isolator bolt repair) the cowl had cracked, also some of the clips holding it down broke. So I didn't want to remove the cowl unless necessary. It turns out with my long skinny arms I can lay up over the motor and reach back around both sides of the intake manifold to reach the coil. It is a reach, but it was possible for me to do the job that way.
I removed the three bolts holding the old coil in place. Then I was able to slide the new coil back in there, around the driver's side of the intake manifold. I transferred over the spark plug wires one by one from old to new (as recommended by another poster) so I wouldn't get confused which was which. It worked well to transfer the rear three first. That hold the new coil near the correct location, and gave me more slack to move the old coil further out of the way.Next step was to remove the wire connector from the rear of the coil pack. It didn't want to release. I looked at the old part (from 2012!!!) and there was a little plastic nub back there to lock the connector in place. It looked like there was room to work in a small screwdriver back there to release the lock. So I wiggled a short flat-head screwdriver in back there (with a wide head) and it released. Then I was able to easily remove the connector.
Then I had more slack to move the old coil further out of the way, toward the drivers side and front of the vehicle. And then transferred the last three spark plug wires to the new coil.Then to secure the new coil in place, I carefully installed one bolt by hand, leaving it loose to allow for final adjustments of position. Installed the second and third bolts loosely. Tightened the three bolts finger tight using a short (3") extension and 7mm socket (1/4" drive). Then snugged them very gently using my small 1/4" rachet. The small 1/4" rachet was a perfect fit using the 3" inch extension and the small 7mm socket. Remember you just want the bolts snug, do not over-tighten them.
When I went back to AutoZone to process the warranty return, they had to do some fancy work with their computer to get me the lifetime warranty on the new coil. By default it would just assume the rest of the original coil warranty from 2012 - which was just about to expire. So they made it right for me - but only because I specifically asked about it. By default, the guy had already rung it up their "normal" way, which would not have extended the warranty for me.Another thing that was strange was back in September 2012 when I replaced the original coil, it had worked well for ten years or so! Also, the bottom of it was clearly cracked, so it was easy to see that it had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
2002 Ford Windstar: Whenever I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it, I get this hum that sounds like the CD player preparing to play a CD. There is no CD in the player. It last for about 30 seconds and then stops. Afterwards, my check engine light comes on and stay on until I have the mechanic reset the alarm. The battery is new. My meter shows that the battery is giving out enough volts. It annoys me to have the check engine light on all of the time. I'd rather it be off so it can report if something else goes wrong with the engine.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Windstar, mileage 61,234, garage kept and in excellent condition.On 6/30/12, I went to take the car out but the system was completely dead. We put a charge on the battery overnight to no avail. We then replaced with a new battery and it started right up (7/1/12). The car ran well until 7/18/12 (17 days) when the system again was completely dead.
This time I had the car towed to the Ford garage where they kept it for 2 days and could not find a problem. They installed another new battery (charging parts and labor). The car drove well again until 8/15/12 (less than a month) when the stsyem was dead again.
The car was towed back to the Ford garage and kept for another 2 days. They said the electrical system was checked completely and they could find nothing wrong. They put a charge on their battery and told me to drive the car at least twice a week. That's where we stand at this time.
My 1999 ford windstar died last month while driving. No signs no symptoms just shut off while driving. Towed it to a mechanic paid $400 for a new fuel pump. I get it back and still having problems. The van dies while driving at any speeds. I've had it shut off when starting to stop at stop signs and I've had it shut off while driving 60. Each time I put it in park it starts up just fine. I took it in to get a computer check and all that it said is rich fuel. So they told me o2 sensor. Two mechanics have informed me o2 sensor would not cause those problems.
Recently someone told me ignition coil was their problem on a truck they had having the same problems. So I watched a YouTube video and I think I can do it myself. Let me just say I don't know anything about cars but it looks simple and I am not willing to sink money on mechanics that clearly themselves can't figure out the problems. Am I right to change the coil or do any of you think it might be something else? I don't want to waste my time if it's not the coil. I have had this van for 3 months. I got for $800 and have now paid about $800 in repairs. Its a good van but im Not paying out more so from here on out this is my let's learn about fixing my own car car. I've read some threads about also changing the spark plugs or the coil will break again I'm also think I can do that as well. Again do you think this is the right track or is it maybe something else.
2002 Windstar A/C problem. Blows cold in the rear but not the front. Blend door actuator in the front is operating properly. Compressor cycles on and off but not excessively. When temp levers in full warm air blows to floor but it is not warm. Compressor runs even when the A/C on/off switch is in the off position. Indicator light is off but compressor still runs. Condensate puddles on floor in rear but none in front under vehicle.
View 8 RepliesMy 02 Windstar has developed an intermittent thumping noise in the engine. A bit of history: She has been sitting for a few months because she was throwing a P303 code that I could not track down. Here in IL, you cannot renew your plates until you pass an emissions check, and you cannot pass the check if a code is stored.
Well, I got a warning ticket for expired plates, and I had my daughter's car as alternate transportation while she is in the Peace Corps, so I parked Mr. Breeze, intending to get to her on the weekend. Except for throwing the code and gas mileage being a bit down, she was running fine when I parked her.
Well, life happened, and I never seemed to be able to put the time aside, but now winter is coming and I don't want to subject her ride to the snow, so I made time and replaced the coil, plugs, and wires. But when I started her up, there is an intermittent thumping noise in the engine compartment.
I have double checked the wires, and I think I have them right. As I understand it, the right bank plug wires go on the coil towers 1,2,3. and the left bank wires go on the towers 6,5,4. Is that right?
I made a short video so you could hear it, but it is too big to upload, so here's a YouTube : [URL] .....
I have a 2002 Ford Windstar. Just replaced a TPS, went to town was coming back home, and all of a sudden it started to spit and sputter while in gear. But, in neutral she runs alright. I use mid-grade gas. I put in two cans of Seafoam in the tank. Wrecker operator smelled the exhaust and told me the it was too rich. My question is and this sounds stupid, could the previous owner. Had never replaced the fuel filter or if they did replaced it, that it was installed backwards. I drove it almost 20 miles before it died. I figured that the fuel in the gas line emptied and it refuse to go. And since it only runs good without strain on the engine...
View 7 RepliesMy 2002 Ford Windstar Van needs a rebuilt transmission. The chain, according to my mechanic, may quit at any time (the van makes a grinding noise going up inclines). In 2005 my van had the transmission rebuilt (it totally quit on me driving). It currently has 200, 030 miles on it. I've checked around and the best estimate for a rebuilt transmission. Is it worth keeping? Repairing? If not, do I try selling it (for what amount?)?
View 9 RepliesMy 2000 Windstar cooling fan on the passenger side is running all the time when I am driving, even in freezing temperature. My gas mileage goes from 18 to 13 now.
View 7 Replies1999 Windstar 3.8. I heard a slight squeak noise fron front end, when low speed driving. Sounds not really horrible, but annoying, and I wish to find out the real cause before it turn worse. It's not easy to describe what the noise sounds like. I can hear it at low speed, seems not relates to steering. At higher speed, it disappears, not sure really gone or covered by other noise. And, when I just parked, and kick the tire, the same noise can be reproduced. But when I tried to kick next day, no more noise.
View 10 RepliesI've been noticing this rattling sound when going over bumps, which doesn't seems to go away!. I know it's a problem with the brake pads because it goes away as soon as I depress the brake pedal. So I decided to take another look at each wheel.
- Brake pads are relatively new and properly installed.
- Wheels have anti-rattle clips properly installed.
- Bolts were properly tightened with a torque wrench by me.
- Slide pins are lubricated.
During my visual inspection I saw the rear wheel calipers are a bit loose and that should be making the noise. I would describe it as up and down play with respect to the rear rotors or the ground.
I don't know what would cause that since each bolt is tight. I don't know if low brake fluid could cause that, no lights are lit on the dashboard but will take a look at the reservoir.
I have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
After all my attempts, I could not fix the rough idle. I have done the gaskets of the gaskets and bolts of the intake manifold (the engine light disappeared), I have changed the bushings of the manifold too (the one one the left side), I have changes the TPS sensor, I have cleaned the MAF sensor...
The rough idle is still there (and getting worse) and there is some smell of gasoline now. I suspect that I have to change sparks and cables, but I wanted to confirm first with you because the whole thing seems complicated as some of the plugs are buried very "conveniently". You could usually feel an ascending vibration while waiting at the traffic light. You can't feel it as much when in neutral, but it is still there.
I have noticed that on the right side of the Intake manifold (under the throttle) there is some sort of greasy substance that always looks wet. I suspect that it is burnt oil, but that think's been there since I bought the car, so I am not sure if it is related in any way.
I haven't changed the oil and air filter since last summer but I doubt that would be an issue. Additionally I realized that I put pure antifreeze when I need to use 50/50. Anyways, those things I will fix this summer anyways. All I want to fix now is the rough idle because these vibrations drive me nuts.
After driving my Windstar approximately 30 miles or more when I stop and get out I can smell gas. I see no leaks or any gas build up any where. Is there something that maybe is causing too much fuel to be going to the injectors??? which probably would also be tied in with some of the smog equipment.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2002 Ford Windstar, it has over 154,000 miles on it. My problem is I got a ODB II code reader and it said that the Intake manifold on the left bank is stuck in the open position. How do I keep it from sticking.
View 15 RepliesAfter 3 months of complaining my wife finally got me in the van to do some errands. We came to a stop at a stop light and I hear this jack hammer noise start, lasts about 3 seconds and trails off. I am looking around the intersection, which is under construction, looking for a jack hammer and my wife says that's the noise that I have been talking about. This noise only occurs when the car is at a standstill after braking and recently happened twice when my wife stopped, released the brake and applied it again. The problem is getting progressively worse.Our mechanic's opinion is that is is a rpm sensor on one of the wheels which is sending a false signal to the ABS system to activate. Another opinion is that the master cylinder has moisture in it and needs to be flushed.This car has about 125m miles. What so I try first?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Windstar that only in the fall and winter it has a longer crank time of at least 10 seconds. In the summer it starts as it should within 3-4 seconds. I did notice that the times it did start normally in the colder air is when I turned the key on and listened to the fuel pump prime the system. All other times it doesn't do that and that's when I get the long crank time. Once it is started it runs as normal. Am I looking at a possible fuel filter or pump? I am due to replace the filter as the van has 83,000 miles on it. If this is the possible culprit, is this something that is easily replaced at home?
View 4 RepliesI don't drive (aren't you lucky?) but my wife and I own a '95 Ford Windstar and last summer we had issues with coolant leaking and had to have a few head gaskets replaced. Now, when we're idling at a stop light or sign, the oil light goes on but as soon as we accelerate, it goes off. The manual says the light indicated either low fluids (which isn't the case) or that the pressure within the system is low. The vehicle seems to run fine otherwise but I'm wondering if the oil light gauge has been set too sensitive?
View 7 RepliesI bought a 2002 passat glx auto with the abs/brake light malfunction. So I replaced the abs module with a part from a 2001 passat 1.8t manual, the numbers matched exactly. The abs/brake light is off, my question is that since mine is an automatic and the part was from a manual, do I need to recode the abs if the lights are not on?
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