Windstar :: 2001 - Intake Runners Open, Car Lost Power At Specific Speed
Jun 19, 2014
2001 windstar, IMRC works fine (closed) under 3000 rpm. When above 3000 rpm the intake runners open and i get surging/loss of power.
No error codes.
2001 windstar, IMRC works fine (closed) under 3000 rpm. When above 3000 rpm the intake runners open and i get surging/loss of power.
No error codes.
I bought a 2002 Ford Windstar, it has over 154,000 miles on it. My problem is I got a ODB II code reader and it said that the Intake manifold on the left bank is stuck in the open position. How do I keep it from sticking.
View 15 RepliesMy electric rear vent windows seem to have a problem opening when the temperature is cold outside. They work almost perfectly when the weather warms up, with the exception of an odd little glitch here and there. Generally summer is good, winter is a no-go. I understand this is a common problem ???
Even at the times when they don't open I can clearly hear an electronic click near the back pillars, with each push of the control switch up front, so I assume the current is making it at least that far and there is no problem with the wiring up to that point.
I have recently removed two used actuators (R+L) from a donor vehicle, and will likely be installing those into my van in the very near future. Although I believe they came from a close but different year windstar which did not have the exact same "rivets" through the window as mine does. External arms etc that can be seen do look identical as does the pivot ball.
#1. is replacement of the actuators a likely solution to the problem ?
#2. by chance, is it merely just an issue of dirty connections with my present actuators ?
#3. can / should I do anything such use dielectric grease on the connections of either my present ones or the donor ones upon replacement, to alleviate future recurrence ?
Under light acceleration without any load. The motor backfired through the intake. Lost all boost. Other than the backfire noise the motor seems to be fine except for lack of power due to no boost. The motor has been serviced by Ford Dealer since new. All services have been done at 5K mile intervals. The last service was done at 60K miles. All filters had been changed at that time (oil, air and fuel).
I do have experience with turbo/ supercharged motors. My experience would tell me that the problem was with a lean condition at the time of the backfire. Plenty of fuel in the tank and no low fuel pressure warning. I have seen low fuel pressure warning in the past but it happened during the winter when temps were negative 40 degrees. The truck is still under extended warranty so I really don't have concerns regarding repair costs.
I have 2010 F150 King Ranch 5.4L. This truck has been giving us problems by just dying. We have haf it towed twice in two days. It does it more often when hooked up to our travel trailer. The day before yesterday we drove it 250 miles w/o the camper with no problems. Once it dies it can take an hoir or so before it starts. I just did a test and had the truck.running for a bit and then plugged the trailer wiring harness (7 pin with brake control) and truck died within a minute. A couple of times it showed that there codes. The codes were P0201 thri P208. Which is open circuit to that specific injector. When the key is turned off the codes go away.
View 1 RepliesWell, I decided to take on the dreaded task of replacing the lower manifold intake gaskets and put in new isolator bolts. It was a major undertaking, and when I finally finished the oil change and fired up the car, it sounded fine. Then I checked under the hood.
I saw coolant spurting out the side of one of the hose connections that I had to take off and put back on. I thought the gasket on it looked pretty worn, but wasn't expecting this!
Unfortunately I don't know the name of the hose connection to pick up a gasket at the store ... it's the larger lower hose that is bolted on to the lower intake, not the hose slightly above it that has the plastic clips.
What is the name of this hose connection so I can try and find one at the store? It's a 2003 Windstar model.
I have 98 windstar, p1538 code, IMRC. I have physically checked both IMRC's and they are functioning as they should. (if they were bad, they would not move at all right?) Assuming they are good, which step in the troubleshooting process I go to now? The van runs perfect, just that darn light! Do I start going for the O2 sensor now? What to next in the chain of troubleshooting?
View 14 RepliesCheck engine light is on, this is the code that came up when checked at OReillys, "P0113 Intake Air temperature sensor 1 Circuit high input". Earlier took it to repair shop, he did not give the code, some sensor needs to be changed (don't know if he came up with same code). He had erased the code but it came back on within minutes. Wanted to check if there is any cheaper way to fix this. This is a windstar van.
View 15 RepliesI have recently bought a 04 f250 6.0, and it has the intake thumping noise that varies speed with idle... I was told it could be a broken rocker, a bent push rod, or a broken roller... I am not that much experienced with diesels. I've spoken to the dealership, and they don't wanna fix it, they said it wouldnt hurt it to drive it like that, but the noise bothers the hell out of me, and everyone notices it. so i wanna get it fixed. I am hoping its just a rocker. if it is just a rocker how deep am i in? truck has 240xxx miles on it, and runs perfect other than that noise.
View 7 RepliesIn the last year and a half I have developed a problem with my truck missing under a very specific condition. It only happens when the humidity is 100%, either right before, during, or after rain. When it's at 100% humidity outside, the first time I start the car for the day it starts missing. This continues until the truck comes up to full temperature, usually a about three or four miles, then it clears up. By the way, snow doesn't cause this unless its mixed with rain.
My mechanics are at a loss, say there is no info on the diagnostics. Since this started, I have had an inclusive tune up, they replace all plugs and wires, I've had all belts and the pulley replaced, and I've changed the intake air filter twice.
We just bought a 2003 Windstar SE, the door ajar indicator is on on the dash all the time but the courtesy/dome lights don't come on with any of the doors open. The lights will come on manually with the headlight switch? I am pretty sure these are controlled by the GEM module.
View 11 RepliesDriving along, suddenly lost gears, engine revved a slight bit then lost power and stalled, the engine turns over but will not start but when it turns its in a lower key sound, the timing belt is in place but has recently been changed, would you think it has slipped? Seems a total lack of combustion in the top of the engine, would a slipped timing belt cause this?
View 4 RepliesThe light engine is on - I understand that the O2 sensor on bank one is gone, the car hesitates and I would like to understand what is wrong. Maybe other sensors or perhaps the turbo. The car has 62,000 miles. Will the car recup power by replacing the bad O2 sensor?
View 2 Replies1999 Windstar 3.8. I heard a slight squeak noise fron front end, when low speed driving. Sounds not really horrible, but annoying, and I wish to find out the real cause before it turn worse. It's not easy to describe what the noise sounds like. I can hear it at low speed, seems not relates to steering. At higher speed, it disappears, not sure really gone or covered by other noise. And, when I just parked, and kick the tire, the same noise can be reproduced. But when I tried to kick next day, no more noise.
View 10 RepliesI purchased my 2001 Nissan Sentra about 4 weeks ago and the check engine light came on about a week into owning it. I scheduled an appointment to get it checked, but continued to drive it without issue until one day I started it and as soon as I began driving it lost power. The more gas I gave it, the worse it got. It just wouldn't let me go anywhere. So I parked the car and let it sit for about an hour. Then when I went back to show someone else the problem, the car started and drove again like nothing was wrong. Since then, this has been happening frequently. I will start the car, it will spit and sputter and lose power, I will turn the car off and wait a while, it will start up again no problem.
My local mechanic told me the computer was throwing a bunch of different codes, including the one for the catalytic converters. They also told me that since the problem seems electrical (the car seems to reset itself when I turn it off) it could be that the computer is going and that’s what needs to be replaced. I've taken the car back to the dealership where I bought it, they replaced the oxygen sensors, thinking that would fix the problem. I just got the car back yesterday and drove it for about 60 miles without any problems, then that check engine light came back on and the same old problem is back. My question is, how do I know if the problem is mechanical or electrical? What if I replace the catalytic converters when it’s actually the computer that was the problem all along or vice versa?
2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
View 1 RepliesCheck engine light came on and stayed on today. Engine lost almost all power so I guess I was in "limp home mode". CEL ODB-II code was P2138 according to AutoZone.
Accelerator position sensor malfunction
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed APS.
After turning off the vehicle, it seems fine at least in town but the check engine light is still on. This is the first "problem" with the vehicle and it's at about 98K.
I bought my van in 2011 from my dad's former employer. It was a fleet vehicle and wasn't in the greatest of condition when I bought it. In 2012 I was told that I had a leak in my oil pan from a mechanic. I never ended up getting it fixed for various reasons. A few months ago, I lost power steering in my van and have been driving since without it. My dad wanted to see if anything could be done to fix it and found out the van is completely rusted underneath and ended up puncturing a hole in the bottom when he tried to jack the thing up. I am really hoping to get a (new) used car but don't have the money right now. I was wondering though how long would you expect I could "survive" with my car like this?
View 16 RepliesMy wife has a 01 ford focus zx3 3 door automatic wont start she was driving and it lost power and shut down I replaced the plugs, wires, pcv hose and pcv valve, coil, fuel pump good 40psi, compression 150 to 180, even drop the converter still wont start could the injectors play a role.....
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 Mercury Sable with 114k miles. Just bought it and it ran fine for the most part until one day while coming home from work. It was still running but lost a lot of power and wouldn't go fast at all. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that this car has 3 converters on the exhaust system. First of all, I think having 3 is overkill and secondly, I am wondering why these things are so expensive. The one up front that mounts to my manifold is $350 just for the part. The one in the back can be bypassed (legally) but why did they make this system so complex and what are my options at this point? If I found a Sable that was being parted out, could I use the converters from that? Would it have to be the same year?
View 15 RepliesI have a 2004 Elantra with about 132,000 miles. I was out driving today and the transmission started to shift rough. Than at a stop light the car would not accelerate. I had to put the car into low or 2nd gear to get the car to move. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. When I arrived home and parked and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
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