Windstar :: 2001 Ford Started Missing And Stalls Randomly Under Acceleration
May 18, 2015
I have a 2001 Ford Windstar SE. 220,000 miles. A few months back it started missing ... I drove it like that just local for a few days but then I was leaving town for about a month and just parked it. After I got back I changed the plugs and all was fine on the test drive (ran perfect ... fixed the misfire). What has happened since then has been frustrating. Althought it runs great, now it stalls randomly and always when it's under acceleration and usually going up slight or a bit steeper hills (think So Cal terrain). It doesn't jerk or miss or sputter ... it just cuts out.
If you try to turn the engine over without turning the key off it won't start. Turn off the key then turn it on and it starts like nothing ever happened. No codes whatsoever. Sometimes you can drive it for 30 to 50 miles or more and have no problems at all, then all of a sudden it will stall in an area that it had no problems with over the previous week or so. It seems to stall out at about the time it wants to shift from 1st to 2nd or from 2nd to 3rd ... or at least that general rpm or accelerator pedal position. It's happened with light acceleration and heavy (pulling a long hill) acceleration. Never at idle or decelerating or just cruising on a flat piece of roadway ... never. It also seems the pedal needs to be at a constant position (not pushing down or letting up but just at a certain position under acceleration). I've had my mechanic with me 3 different times and each time it never stalled with him along. Fuel pressure was fine when he checked it (while driving).
Once in a while it will cut out (just enough to notice) then cut right back in and keep running but most of the time it just cuts out and that's it. I've changed the camshaft sensor, the crankshaft sensor, the PCM relay, the fuel pump relay, the throttle position sensor and the fuel filter. I'm hoping to set it up next week where if it stalls I can call the mechanic and have him come over to where I am and see if a code comes up (and check the fuel pressure also) without me turning it off (since that seems to reset whatever the problems is).
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I've got a 97 f150 4.6 that has randomly started missing over the last month. It has started to get more frequent and codes are showing a misfire on both cylinder 1 and 8. Both of these cylinders run off the same coil pack. I'm thinking its the coil? The plugs and wires, motocraft, have about 3k on them and the truck runs great otherwise. I just don't know how common a coil would cause this or if they would act intermittent like this.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 started missing the other night. Great loss of power, but made it home. Rough idle, "clacky". Next morning, did the following in order: 1) Pulled the fuel filter inspected, 2) removed all fuel from the bowl 3) replaced bowl fuel with Seafoam 4) installed new filter (my typical procedure). Without starting, I then 5) removed HPOP oil from reservoir and 6) filled with fresh oil using exact amount removed as a gauge for what to replace.
Started, idle smooth for a time. Increased rpm by depressing accelerator. Began running rougher and rougher accompanied by white smoke. Finally quit and would not restart. Cranking easily, tachometer showing RPM during crank. Suspected no fuel getting to fuel bowl. 7) Drained fuel bowl using valve on back of bowl. 8) Turned ignition to "on" to get fuel pump to run 9) removed new filter, no fuel in bowl 10) With fuel filter out of the bowl, removed fuel filter and quickly cycled the ignition to "on" and back off -- no fuel entered the bowl. 11) Removed leads from fuel pump. 12) Checked voltage across leads as ignition cycled to "on": 6.5 volts. 13) Checked fuel pump fuse (20A Maxi fuse in location 112 -- BLOWN!) 14) Replaced fuse, performed voltage test: 11.55 volts 15) Checked battery voltage: 12.44Volts.
So, with all that, how in the world does the fuel pump get 6.5 volts with the fuse blown? I looked closely at the fuse and there was no slag or connection in the element. Today I have pulled the 9-pin and 42-pin connections on the valve covers as well as the connectors to the glow plug relay module (used on Ex's) to inspect wires and connections. All looked fine. I plan to us some LP5 electro contact cleaner to clean all the connections and put some electrical grease on the connections, but the big question is where did that 6.5V come from with the fuse blown. I plan to pull the fuse and do the same test to see if the 6.5V is still there.
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2001 Ranger Edge 3.0. Like the title says, when I start my ranger it idles really rough. If I give it gas it shudders like it's gonna die. After about 2-3 minutes it smooths out. If I'm on the interstate and down shift to pass someone, while accelerating it feels like I have a misfire (no CEL given) not all the time though. I've changed plugs and wires and it stopped doing it so I thought I had it but, it continued a few days later. Then I changed the fuel filter and it stopped again for a few days. Well it's back again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump but I wanted to check here before I take my truck bed off. I also checked for vac leaks and I'm all good there.
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I have a 2001 f250 superduty 7.3L diesel and my air conditioner just randomly started blowing HOT south texas air. I tried to recharge it with refrigerant but the gauge said that it was over charged as soon as I plugged it into the low side port. What is wrong???
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A few weeks ago while driving to work, my gas light came on and then started randomly blinking and dinging. At the same time, my headlights and dash illumination lights started blinking.
I filled my gas tank and the gas light turned off, but the headlight blinking still remains. When they blink, I can hear a relay? clicking to the left of the steering column.
It seems to take about ten minutes of driving for the problem to develop and then the lights blink every few seconds.
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I have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
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2003 Ranger (4.0 L-2wd)...
Codes - random misfire and cylinder banks 1, 2, 3, reads out lean fuel
Will be checking out injectors and rail pressure, however, trouble shooting in general for this issue.
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I have a 98 Ranger with a 3.0 (5 speed) that has 254,000 miles on it. I drove it to town this morning (8 miles) and it ran normally. I stopped for just a few minutes at a house and when I re-started the truck, it was missing very bad and the CEL came on. It wouldn't haul itself in anything higher than 3rd gear. I decided to try to make it back home. I drove it less than two miles and it cleared up and started running perfect again. I came home anyway and read the code with my scan tool.
It said that I had a miss fire on cylinder #5. I erased the codes and shut the CEL out and its been running perfectly ever since. (I have put about 150 miles on it so far) If it does it again, I will start by replacing the plug wires. I have already done that but its been a long time ago. The plugs have been replaced twice as well. I was wondering if it could be something other than electrical like a dirty injector or maybe the compression rings lined up and it momentarily lost compression.
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I've got a 99 Ford Escort Se 4 door sedan, Automatic trans with about 140k miles on it that randomly stalls when stopping at a red light. It is random and rare, but it does happen.
When it stalls, it sounds and feels like something is mechanically stopping the engine, like maybe it's not disconnecting from the automatic transmission. I can hear the engine working hard as the car slows down, it jumps around in the engine compartment a little bit, then dies as the car comes to a complete stop.
Then I start the car back up, everything is back to normal and I drive away with no further problems for the rest of the trip.
What can cause this? Does this car have a TCC clutch in the torque converter? Is it maybe randomly being falsely triggered to apply at low speed?
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First, it's not a sticky IAC. I already experience that in cold weather and compensate simply with the gas pedal until engine warms up. However this coughing, sputtering, backfiring, misfiring problem is very severe. When it is in this state, the engine will lose rpm and stall. No way to coax it with the gas pedal to keep it running.
It happens most often when you restart the engine after having stopped somewhere for 10-30 minutes. It happens less often during a cold start in the morning. When it does this, I remove the key, and try again. Usually in 3-10 tries, the engine runs properly. Once running properly, there is never an occurrence of this.
However, today only, first cold start, it cranked and would not fire at all. Repeatedly. Jiggled the key and maybe they made it start. Ignition switch? If Neutral Switch, it should not have cranked. Perhaps my intermittent problem is worsening.
Wet weather seems to aggravate it.
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I purchased an '03 V10 Excursion back in '13 with about 145000 miles on it. I've added another 30,000 in the last year and a half. It's been good but has started missing and has gotten to the point where it will shut off at times and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. The MIL has never lit from the missing. Twice after it cut off the MIL was lit with a speed sensor error.
I've purchased a BAFX Products Bluetooth OBD2 interface and I've tried a couple of different Android apps with it, right now I'm using Torque Pro. It says it's an OBD I system which I saw references to in the "Why your MIL doesn't turn on" thread. I'm seen references to using Mode 6, but everything I've read seems to indicate that's an OBD II feature.
The missing gets better and worse. Some days it will seem to be fine and then other days I have to keep it rev'ed up to keep it from dying while stopping for a red light.
When it dies, it dies while stopped in drive or reverse. It has also died a couple of times while moving in reverse while connected to a 3,500lb trailer. Every time it's died it has started right back up.
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I have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 - stalls randomly, sometimes will not start. After the IPR was replaced it was rough for about 4 miles (I thought maybe air in the system), next 40 miles was flawless with 3 stops and restarts. Then it sat for a few hours and I went to leave again and the problem was off and on again for another 5 mile drive. Now it won't start in the driveway. It will start if I disconnect the ICP but the idle is still a little rough.
I replaced the normal culprits after a lot of searching on here:
CPS - replaced with autozone part, thought maybe it was bad new so went to ford and replaced with official part from the dealer
ICP - had oil in the plug and it would idle better removed so I replaced the plug and as much wire as I could - soldered, heat shrunk, good connections - both the pigtail and sensor came from Ford dealer
IPR - replaced with part from the Ford Dealer (FYI - 1 1/8" 1/2" drive craftsman deep socket from sears fit in the ratchet and on the part).
Grounds - found somewhere that the ground on the firewall for the windshield wipers can interfere with the CPS so I pulled it, clean the connections and made sure it was tight and secure.
No check engine light now - I received a few through the process, but did not clear them and there are no codes at this time (self cleared on the 40 mile drive)
I'm thinking it may be some electrical issue/short or a fuel issue at this point, bowl is full and the filter is fairly new (few thousand miles). I haven't done the Hutch mod, but have over 1/2 a tank.
I'm trying to get this going as quick as I can so I don't want to waste too much time, but I also don't want to miss a critical troubleshooting step to take.
Below are my thoughts on the next steps.
Research and test fuel pressure
Tow it somewhere to test each injector - I only have Torque pro to read codes and engine status
If fuel delivery checks out ok, start testing wire by wire on all of the above parts.
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85 ranger 2.3 fuel injected misses at high acceleration. Fairly new plugs and wires, just replaced the timing belt, pretty new fuel pump in tank, new fuel pressure regulator and pcv. It idles well, starts up and drives pretty well until you get it in 4th and really bog it down. Could be timing issues but I'm pretty sure I did everything right when I put the belt in. What it could be? I know when the tank fuel pump went out, it did something similar for a while...
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I have a 2002 f-150 4.6 that sometimes has a miss upon acceleration but not all the time.the truck is a 4.6 with a manual trans.has no engine codes and scanner never show a misfires but sometimes it does , have replaced all spark plugs and coil boots twice.
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My 4.2 liter F150 suddenly started missing under load. A little background: It is a late 2003 and has 75k miles. It has been in my family since new, and I have had it for the last 4 years. This truck is as stock as they come, and has been well maintained.
On my way to work yesterday, it began missing. Not bad at first, but got worse. It misses while under load and under acceleration. The "check engine light" never came on. I have not put fuel in in several days, and it ran fine until now, so I doubt it is bad fuel. I started the engine after dark and looked for arcing. None visible, and I even sprayed the wires with a mist of water. I pulled the plugs and they all look normal. The gaps were all way too large, so I regapped the plugs to .054". I pulled the coil pack and it checks within range with my VOM. Can the coil pack be the problem even though it checks out on the bench? Can the large plug gaps have contributed to a coil pack failure?
Where to start. I HATE just throwing parts at this thing, and I don't like wasting money... If I let one of the auto parts stores run a scan, will it show a code even though I have no check engine light? I used to think of myself as a pretty good diagnostician, but then again, when I used to spend a lot of time under the hood, those cars had points, condensers and carburetors...
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I recently purchased a rebuilt 2014 Ford Focus ST3 with about 11,000 miles on it. The engine is a turbocharged 2.0L EcoBoost. I usually use 91 or 93 octane fuel, whichever is the highest available. - 6 speed manual and around 285 horsepower (with tune) is a lot of fun to drive. When I bought it, I had the mechanic that was rebuilding it put an Injen cold air intake on it. A few weeks after I got the car, I took the it to a local performance shop to get it tuned. The tune works great and added a bit of power to the car, but now I have a strange issue.
About 1 time out of 75 when I take off, the car throttle is limited and displays the message "Engine fault - service engine now". On one occasion the engine even stalled on me while crossing a highway. Note that this happens while shifting into and releasing the clutch ONLY on first or second gear. In order to get my car running properly again, I need to come to a complete stop and turn off the engine and then restart it. Sometimes the check engine light stays on, but it usually goes away after I restart. The only engine code that is shown is P106B, which has something to do with an incorrect reading on MAF sensor causing the throttle body to close.
Research online told me this issue is commonly caused by a damaged/improperly sealed intake filter or a crack in the intake itself, which changes the angle that air hits the MAF sensor. I have checked both of these and they are good. I have ruled out a bad throttle body control because if that is bad it usually throws another code indicating that it is faulty.
The only thing that I can think of, and I may be wrong, is that when the performance shop tuned my car they tuned it for a stock intake. This would mean that the car does not think it should be getting the airflow that it is and throttles it down to compensate.
I am not sure what to do at this point because (A) the issue impossible to replicate and seems to happen at random, and (B) I cannot just take it to the performance shop and tell them to fix it because I am not sure what is wrong in the first place.
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2003 6.0 is acting crazy again. Has new ICP, IPR, oil discharge tube, and hpop. It cranks right up but one time you crank it and all the gauges work correctly, especially the fuel gauge. The engine will idle perfect but when you accelerate it has a dead miss. May crank like that 2 to 4 times. Then you crank it and it runs like crap, and the gauges won't work, the fuel gauge goes past E and the light comes on. As long as that happens it runs terrible, but when the gauges are working it idles great but has a miss under acceleration! It was running fine, then just went nuts!
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I have a 2001 ford windstar the codes are bank 1 lean (wires have been cut) could this cause the miss fire on the #1 and 3 cylinders? The previous owner put copper plugs in it instead of platinum. How hard is it to change the plugs?
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I have a 2005 FX4 with a 5.4L. I have noticed in the past 3 months that when I mash the go pedal hard the engine misses and there is a popping sound. My gas mileage has gone down 2-3 MPG.
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