Windstar :: 2000 - Car Cranked But Not Started In Cold Weather
Feb 9, 2013
First, it's not a sticky IAC. I already experience that in cold weather and compensate simply with the gas pedal until engine warms up. However this coughing, sputtering, backfiring, misfiring problem is very severe. When it is in this state, the engine will lose rpm and stall. No way to coax it with the gas pedal to keep it running.
It happens most often when you restart the engine after having stopped somewhere for 10-30 minutes. It happens less often during a cold start in the morning. When it does this, I remove the key, and try again. Usually in 3-10 tries, the engine runs properly. Once running properly, there is never an occurrence of this.
However, today only, first cold start, it cranked and would not fire at all. Repeatedly. Jiggled the key and maybe they made it start. Ignition switch? If Neutral Switch, it should not have cranked. Perhaps my intermittent problem is worsening.
Wet weather seems to aggravate it.
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I have a 1998 Chevrolet Prizm that will not fast idle when it is started in cold weather the first thing in morning. what could be the problem?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
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My 2005 Accord V-6 makes a howling (actually a loud whine) when started in very cold weather (e.g., below 25 degrees). The sound goes a way after a few miles driving. It appears to come from a small "pump" looking thing at the top and on the left (facing the car) of the engine, which is attached to a pulley. My mechanic - although he did not actually hear it - says it's nothing to worry about; it's just the cold.
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 51k miles (bought a couple of months ago).
It ran perfectly during the hot weather (75-80F) and it idles around 650rpm-670rpm. These couple of weeks, there have been very cold weather (60-70F) and it idles mostly around 650rpm but can drop to 630-640rpm. Sometimes, it will suddenly drop to around 612rpm (there will be a very slight shudder) and pick back up to 630rpm. This is with all accessories turned off.
If I turn on the windshield wiper, then every time it activates, it drops to around 612rpm and picks back up quickly. This only happens during cold weather.
I don't think it's the MAF sensor.. what it could be?
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Title pretty much says it. When its COLD it surges while idling upon start up. It goes away once you start driving it and the engine warms up. Other than that it runs great. Its got about 235 K with a replacement motor that has about 100k. I've had it about a year. Great vehicle. Its a standard.
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I am writing this about my fiances 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter. I live in MN so we see our fair share of cold weather. After her car has sat over night it will not start in the morning when the temp is below 32F or so. It started happening at the end of last winter and then it got warmer out and the car became normal...which is hard to figure out the issue when you cant verify the problem when you want to. Anyways we just had one of our first pretty cold nights and we went out to start her car and it barely started.
I have suspected it to be a fuel issue because while trying to start it if I hold the gas pedal in it will start to backfire lately and just acts like it is flooded. This last summer I looked over some things and found that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was leaking into the vacuum line which would go into the intake manifold and flood the car. So I replaced that convinced that it would solve the issue. It didn't. I also found that the PCV valve was stuck so I replaced that. Last winter I dumped in a bottle of gasoline de-icer or whatever that stuff is called thinking maybe she got some bad gas and her lines were freezing. That didnt change anything.
When the car wont start I can literally crank until the battery is dead (newer battery in the car) with no luck. I have had to be jumping it and cranking it over for a good hour to get it to start. Not cranking straight time obviously. But about an hour worth of time before it starts. And at that time i am thinking it starts just because of the air temp going up in that amount of time or something... I don't know. I am not quite ready to bring the car into the shop because I know it will need to stay there for a few days to be able to get the right conditions for them to verify the problem. My fiance and me have very busy schedules between both working full time and going to school full time. So to be without a car for a few times isn't an option.
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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
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So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
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Fuel pump does not work in Cold Weather, but works fine in warm weather? Will replacing the pump solve this or is there a bad sensor somewhere else causing the problem?
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My Jeep makes a whistling noise in cool/cold weather (~60 degrees and below) that no mechanic has been able to diagnose let alone fix the problem. Here are the details...
-high pitched whistling (can be heard inside and outside the car - very loud) only when temps are about 60 degrees and below-after 5 minutes of the car running-only when RPMs are about 2.0 or below.
However, RPMs can be higher when it is colder out and it will still make the noise-as you push on the accelerator, the noise gradually decreases until RPMs are high enough to completely stop the noise.
When temps are around 50-60 degrees, sometimes the whistling will stop after the car has been at a complete stop for about 1-2 minutes-If you turn off the car and let it sit for 1-2 minutes, then turn it back on, usually the whistling will be gone. It will need to sit in the off position for longer the colder the temps are. This problem has been ongoing for about 4 years.
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Went out to the garage to move the car ('03 GLS V6)...cranked over, almost started then died. When i tried to start again, the engine seems to crank over too easily...like NO COMPRESSION, and it is puffing smoke out the tailpipe. Did the timing belt just let go? The car has 68K.
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So I was wondering, what my problem might be. I went to go start my car after work 3 days ago and it cranked half way started and shut down. The things that I have checked are fuses both at the battery and in the side panel, fuel pump relay... It clicks when I turn the key, fuel pump.. Its getting 12 volts when the key is in the on position. Now a buddy of mine had me roll down the driver window and arm the alarm then open the door from the inside and the alarm did not go off nor does the dome lights come on. And the the fuel pump does not prime. He told me its a food lever switch. It's not recognizing that the door is open and that it's linked with the fuel pump that's why it's not priming and it's not starting.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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I recently purchased a 2000 7.3, when it's started cold it's lopes at start up unless I give it some gas and then it's perfectly fine. If the truck is plugged into the engine block heater it starts normal. I changed the oil the day after I bought it and put 15w-40 in it and then the rough idle started. So I don't know if it was like this before or because of the thicker oil I put into in the cold. It also has a service engine soon light on and the code that comes up when read is to the icp sensor. When looking st the sensor the blue wire going to it looks cut and is disconnected. How would I reconnect these wires and see if that makes the check engine light go off.
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I have a 2001 Ford Windstar SE. 220,000 miles. A few months back it started missing ... I drove it like that just local for a few days but then I was leaving town for about a month and just parked it. After I got back I changed the plugs and all was fine on the test drive (ran perfect ... fixed the misfire). What has happened since then has been frustrating. Althought it runs great, now it stalls randomly and always when it's under acceleration and usually going up slight or a bit steeper hills (think So Cal terrain). It doesn't jerk or miss or sputter ... it just cuts out.
If you try to turn the engine over without turning the key off it won't start. Turn off the key then turn it on and it starts like nothing ever happened. No codes whatsoever. Sometimes you can drive it for 30 to 50 miles or more and have no problems at all, then all of a sudden it will stall in an area that it had no problems with over the previous week or so. It seems to stall out at about the time it wants to shift from 1st to 2nd or from 2nd to 3rd ... or at least that general rpm or accelerator pedal position. It's happened with light acceleration and heavy (pulling a long hill) acceleration. Never at idle or decelerating or just cruising on a flat piece of roadway ... never. It also seems the pedal needs to be at a constant position (not pushing down or letting up but just at a certain position under acceleration). I've had my mechanic with me 3 different times and each time it never stalled with him along. Fuel pressure was fine when he checked it (while driving).
Once in a while it will cut out (just enough to notice) then cut right back in and keep running but most of the time it just cuts out and that's it. I've changed the camshaft sensor, the crankshaft sensor, the PCM relay, the fuel pump relay, the throttle position sensor and the fuel filter. I'm hoping to set it up next week where if it stalls I can call the mechanic and have him come over to where I am and see if a code comes up (and check the fuel pressure also) without me turning it off (since that seems to reset whatever the problems is).
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2002 Windstar A/C problem. Blows cold in the rear but not the front. Blend door actuator in the front is operating properly. Compressor cycles on and off but not excessively. When temp levers in full warm air blows to floor but it is not warm. Compressor runs even when the A/C on/off switch is in the off position. Indicator light is off but compressor still runs. Condensate puddles on floor in rear but none in front under vehicle.
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2001 Ford Windstar rear auxiliary unit will not blow hot or cold air. The front system works fine with very cold or very hot air as needed.The system has been in this state for the past four years.Last month I had a local shop evacuate the refrigerant and then I replaced the following A/C components (compressor, front orifice tube, rear expansion valve, receiver dryer, and condenser). The shop then recharged the system and the front blows ice cold air...amazing! Unfortunately the rear system just doesn't want to blow any air, hot or cold. To date I have completed the following checks:
Relays
- Front cabin relays #3 and #6 were swapped with no change to front system.
- Rear unit relays make a clicking sound when either front or rear control panels set blower motor speed.
-- I swapped out with front and rear cabin blower motor relays with no change to front blower motor.
Engine Compartment - Both 40A fuses were checked (117 & 120).They are supposed to be 40A fuses but my box had 50A in both places.It had been like this for years with both systems working fine up until the rear unit ceased working.(NOTE: maybe this is coincidence but when I changed these from 50A to 40A my son noticed that some of the rear tail lights stopped working. in fact all of them associated with fuse #7 located in the passenger cabin.)
Fuses - all related fuses were checked and are fine.As noted above the distribution box fuses were changed from 50A to 40A with no detrimental effect on the front system working.
Front Control Panel
- Heat and air work fine (blower and temp controls)
- Front control panel appears to change rear unit temperature setting but only one of blend door actuators adjust when changing temperature setting
-- The one closest to the blower motor does not function.The one that directs air to floor or ceiling functions properly.
-- Shouldn't they move together based on the temp setting?
- Front control panel blower motor settings only result in hearing a clicking noise for each setting.
- Setting front control panel to REAR CTRL allows rear control panel to function.
Rear Control Panel
- Temperature settings - same result as front control panel with blend door actuators.
- Blower motor settings - same result as front control panel.
Rear Auxiliary Unit
- Expansion valve makes a hissing sound on A/C or Defrost settings.
- Blower motor was removed and benched tested for operation.
-- Electrical connection looks fine and seats snug.
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My electric rear vent windows seem to have a problem opening when the temperature is cold outside. They work almost perfectly when the weather warms up, with the exception of an odd little glitch here and there. Generally summer is good, winter is a no-go. I understand this is a common problem ???
Even at the times when they don't open I can clearly hear an electronic click near the back pillars, with each push of the control switch up front, so I assume the current is making it at least that far and there is no problem with the wiring up to that point.
I have recently removed two used actuators (R+L) from a donor vehicle, and will likely be installing those into my van in the very near future. Although I believe they came from a close but different year windstar which did not have the exact same "rivets" through the window as mine does. External arms etc that can be seen do look identical as does the pivot ball.
#1. is replacement of the actuators a likely solution to the problem ?
#2. by chance, is it merely just an issue of dirty connections with my present actuators ?
#3. can / should I do anything such use dielectric grease on the connections of either my present ones or the donor ones upon replacement, to alleviate future recurrence ?
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I decided to tackle my ABS warning light issue because it's been on and off intermittently since I bought it.
I first suspected bad wheel sensor(s) per many previous threads. I borrowed a scantool with the ABS diagnosis and found that all 4 wheel sensors are reading same speed value, but they indicate wheel speed of about half of the speedometer reading. Another thing I noticed was that the ABS main power relay output is "1bit" when the ABS warning light is OFF and is "0bit" when it is ON.
So it seems like the ABS power relay is bad. My alldata manual for this model says that the part number for the relay is FOAZ14N089A but it also says that "the ABS is not equipped with an external ABS Relay. According to wiring diagrams provided by Ford, the function of the ABS relay is incorporated into the ABS module". Does this mean that I have to replace the whole ABS module or HCU just because the relay is bad?
Why wheel speed is different than speedometer?
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The horn came on solid about 10 minutes after parked. This is not alarm, as horn is blowing solid. Tried all things to reset the alarm, started engine, locks, etc. Only way to get to stop blowing was to disconnect battery. Re-connected, still blew, disconnected 5 minutes, reconnected, and was ok.
Since that time, it has started going off randomly, even when driving on road.
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