I was removing the camshaft position sensor and synchronizer unit on a 1998 ford windstar gl with 3.8L and the synchronizer bar feel off. The bar went back into the slot and i cannot get to it. How can i retrieve the bar? I tried using a magnet. Can I access the bar from the oil pan if i remove it?
View 1 RepliesThe transmission in our '98 Ford Windstar has failed....sometimes. I went to back it out of the garage and the motor would rev, but no movement of the vehicle. I put it in drive and had the same results. When I put it in 2 it would move. Only in 1 or reverse is it dead. I changed the transmission fluid and filter (Fluid did not looked burned) and it ran fine. After a couple of days, same symptoms. After sitting about a week, I started it up and it acted fine. I drove it about a block. When I attempted to start from a stop sign...no movement. I put it in 2 and drove away.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 ford Windstar with a 3.8 V.6 When I turn my lights on and drive it my lights flicker. I have checked all my grounds that I no of and my connections while driving my lights go dim when I let off the gas. but do not flicker any more. when I accelerate they begin to flicker again. I've had the alternator check and all is good. I have no clue.
View 2 RepliesFrom cold, I start the van up, and if I just slightly crack the throttle it will start running rough. I think it goes away under heavier throttle...might just be that the rpms are up I can't feel it anymore, I don't know. It will idle just fine, and after it warms up it also seems fine. Where to look?Also I sometimes hear a very small, high pitched, vacuum leak from under the hood. What are the most common items that go bad, that I should look at first?
View 4 RepliesI have 98 windstar, p1538 code, IMRC. I have physically checked both IMRC's and they are functioning as they should. (if they were bad, they would not move at all right?) Assuming they are good, which step in the troubleshooting process I go to now? The van runs perfect, just that darn light! Do I start going for the O2 sensor now? What to next in the chain of troubleshooting?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1998 Windstar which just stopped shifting from first to second or third. I still have 1st and Reverse gear but no 2nd or 3rd. Feels like vehicle goes to neutral.
View 2 RepliesI am about to purchase a 2001 F450 7.3L with a 6 speed ZF6 that has a slightly worn 2nd gear synchronizer. I will be rebuilding this transmission with a friend and was wonder if there is any documentation available to assist with the overhaul.
View 14 RepliesMy 98 Windstar Limited has air suspension in the back. Lately, it would be sitting low in the back before starting it up in the morning. The compressor would pump it up as soon as you fired up the van. And the rest of the day would be fine. The other day, the warning light for the air suspension came on, and the compressor has not worked since. Fuses and power connections all seem okay. OBD codes C1770, C1790, C1818 and C1850 were in the system.
View 3 RepliesMy wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
1998 Windstar Limited. I have no vacuum to my rear Auxiliary Unit. I am considering buying a hand vacuum pump. However, I never used one. Is there a video available.
View 9 RepliesMy windstar has for a while been making moderate/slight jerks when stopping. It tends to happen typically just before coming to a complete stop, although sometimes it happens during low-speed turns when coasting (also sometimes have the issue where it shifts downshifts harshly after a "sweeping turn," as mentioned in one of the windstar TSBs). The RPMS don't appear to visibly drop when it occurs (although the tach in the 'stars seems a little slow sometimes). The only trouble code present is P0133 for the Bank 1 downstream O2 sensor slow response.
Also, it tends to worsen when the car is warm. The jerking is less severe when the engine is cool, and tends to worsen after the car warms up. Also it sometimes almost feels like the jerk occurs in two stages. I do not believe it is the TCC solenoid failing to disengage, due to the fact that it even happens if I get up to 15mph for a hundred feet, and then stop.
Probably unrelated, but the car also tends to run rough for 10-15 seconds after starting the first time if left sitting for a few days.
I have a great running 98 Windstar. It does not overheat. The oil looks like it needs to be changed but it is not Coffee Colored, as the picture. The PCV valve looks clean, and rattles. I replaced the small 2 inch hose at the PCV valve on the back valve cover since it looked weak in the middle and may have been collapsing. I no longer get the big puddles of OIL/WATER on the ground, that I use to. I cleaned the oil/water out of the Intake Hose of the Throttle Body, but I still see some of the mixture underneath the Air Instake hose after a long drive.
I will go by the Ford dealer and buy another PCV valve, and replace the small curved hose going to the top of the engine near the Throttle Body that the other end of the PCV connects. Someone suggested that this could be cracked, and it does have some small cracks in it at the bend.
I have read that the 99-00 had a design problem with the Valve Cover, and it allowed oil to be sucked out and give similar problem. But since this is a 98, I am just looking for pinched hoses, or leaks. Car runs great, and hoping that I can find the reason that oil is being sucked into the air intake.
Do I have it correct that during normal operation, that the moisture and gases are sucked up out of the engine thru the PCV and into the top of the engine. And that the other Valve cover hose is going in the other direction or from the throttle body to the Valve cover?
Just trying to determine if the oil/moisture mixture is coming from the front or rear (PCV) valve cover. Getting no codes on the engine.
I have a 1998 windstar with a 3.8. I took my daughter Christmas shopping and noticed the car did not want to shift out of first gear. I shifted it manually to second and then DRIVE and that worked until I stopped at a light. I took off in DRIVE and the car did shift to second and third on its own but it shifted late and hard. Also, the speedometer quit working and the overdive light on the shifter just turned on by itself and then went out. By the time we got home, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light was on. All these symptoms happened in a relatively short amount of time (5 miles). I suspect something electrical but am not sure. Is there a speed sensor fuse on these cars?
View 2 RepliesDoes my 1993 ford explorer sport 4.0 L V6 engine have a camshaft sensor and if so where is it located?
View 2 RepliesMy check engine light came on about a week ago and was unsure what the problem was. So I tested the codes and it said that the camshaft position sensor was bad. So I have tried finding this sensor but little to no luck. I was unsure if it was the 2 or 3 pin, but after looking at some pictures of the engine I'm thinking it is a 2 pin. I attached two pictures of what I think might be the sensor? But I am unsure. This was right next to the timing belt cover, which is where it said it was located. I have a 1996 Ford Ranger, 2.3L.
View 6 RepliesIn the 2004-2008 forum there's a lot of topics concerning the camshaft phaser knocking/ticking issue but I don't see much in this forum. Was that issue taken care of by 2009 or do some still have the problem?
View 1 RepliesI have my 4.6L engine on a stand in the garage. I think I have a blown head gasket. I am ready to remove the heads.
My Haynes book says: "Caution:Use the required camshaft retaining fixtures to lock the camshafts and leave the tools in place."
A google search shows nothing. Why, what does it do?
I am having a problem repairing my 1997 aerostar with a 3.0 engine. Code PO340 comes up. Ive replaced the cam sensor, cam sensor housing and the pcm. Using the diagnostic charts, I've thoroughly checked out the wiring, in the harness, at the sensor, and at the pcm. I've set the cam sensor housing at TDC with the appropriate timing tool. Code P0340 still comes up. I've seen a couple of other aerostars with the same problem. Ford TSBs .....
View 14 RepliesJust bought a 2002 4.6 v8. Check engine light was on and it pulls code po340 for the camshaft position sensor. I took a look at it and found its not plugged up. The plug is missing but the two wires are still there. I can replace the two wire plug but does it matter which wire goes to which side of the sensor?
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 F-150 which has a loud knocking at the passenger side valve cover. I am not a mechanic but thought it was a rocker arm knocking. I dropped some oil from the oil pan and did not see and metal shavings. I added some mystery oil but the knocking continued.Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled to a mechanic to check for the problem. He said the oil ports are clogged and oil can not get to the cam shaft and the cam shaft bearings are probably causing the knocking. He said there is no way to fix this problem and I will have to replace the motor.
I called another mechanic and described what the other mechanic described. The 2nd mechanic said it would require a complete tear down of the motor and would be cheaper to replace the motor. I recently bought this truck just to use for hunting and around town since it already has 198k miles on it.
Is there any way to clean the gunk from the oil ports? The truck will still run but just has the loud knocking so I don't let it run for more that a couple minutes. I have been reading many opinions for sludge blocking the oil passages and am considering removing the valve cover gasket and filling with diesel and let sit for 24 hours then repeat then put in fresh oil and filter. Maybe this will clean the blocked passages.
Seems like a real problem and not just emissions related. The truck seems to run fine; no abnormal vibration.
Seeing the dealer on wednesday and was supposed to leave for a 2 month trip on sunday.
Bad to go sunday anyway and wait for a dealer on the road?
How likely is it that the dealer will have this fixed on wednesday same day?