I have a 2002 volvo v70 xc awd turbo and whenever I accelerate it vibrates noticeably Or if i drive at highway speeds it also vibrates but is much worse. Im thinking its either a CV joint or possibly an axle bearing. What should i look for?
View 2 RepliesI have spent alot of time looking through threads about v10's misfiring and have not been able to resolve my issue. I recently purchased a 2000 v10 f250 with about 220000 miles on it I bought it knowing it had one miss fire but now I have a total of three. Te truck has no problems accelerating but at a little over 40 mph the engine shakes quite noticeably and after 60 i5 seems to smooth out. After alot of reading I replaced all of my plugs and ignition coils, ran a can of sea foam through my gas tank and my intake with no change to the miss fires. I have started my trials with the fuel injectors by switching them from miss firing cylinders to ones that aren't. Some other information is my truck has no egr on my intake.
View 4 RepliesI have a 95 940 turbo that shakes really bad when braking. things I have done so far are.
1. Replaced all four rotors.
2. Replaced all four callipers.
3. Replaced sway bar control arms.
The shaking is so bad that the gear shift moves back and forth when braking.
My '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5. Cost is 3200-3500 for the repair.
and if the price is accurate. Given the age and mileage on the car, I am reluctant to invest 3-4k.
The malfunction indicator lamp has been on in my '03 Honda Civic LX for some time now. The car shakes and has trouble accelerating, but not all the time. This usually occurs when the car is stopped, perhaps at a stoplight, in drive. The malfunction indicator lamp blinks when this happens. I brought it to have the codes read, and these came up; P0303 (this happened twice in one reading), P0420, and P0135.
View 3 RepliesI have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
View 4 Replies(1994 Volvo 850 2.4L L5 Base) whenever i accelerate i get high RPM's but now actual acceleration. i cleaned the MAF and it worked for a short time then it began happening again. so i ran the codes and i got back A1- 121, 131. A2- 121, 121. A3- 141, 142, 213, 214, 311, 312. A6- 131.
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a '97 Volvo 850 sedan. It is not a turbo. It starts up fine. It goes in reverse fine. It accelerates to about 10-15 mph fine. But when I accelerate faster than that, the rpm's go up and the car coasts. After about 20 minutes the car drives fine and it doesn't rev high. How to find what need replacing?
View 1 RepliesThe car has drastically dropped gas mileage from 17mpg to 11-12 mpg. It's laboring, and I even have to accelerate going down hills where I am usually breaking to keep from going too fast. I have had the whole car looked over twice -- timing belt was a little old, so we replaced it. The gas filter was full of gunk, and it was replaced. Still has the same problem. Mechanic can't find anything else wrong. I'm getting ready for a long road trip and don't want to pay for all that gas or break down along the way.
View 10 RepliesMy 2006 Volvo S60 turbo has about 116K miles and noticed a couple times when I punch the gas to accelerate quickly (like to pass someone on the interstate) that it will make this quick jerky thing (as though I ran over some rumble strips). I normally drive like a grandma so this has only happened a couple times. Today I was on the interstate and decided to test this out and sure enough it would quickly bump-bump-bump before the gas/acceleration kicked in. It never stalled, but now I am paranoid.
Also, it occasionally "feels" like it takes the car longer than normal to start. There is no pattern to this. It will happen first thing in the morning, but I have noticed it more often when I stop to drop my son off and get back in the car. I will crank the key and the RPM dial will shoot up twice really quickly and then be normal.
Maybe you should also know that when I first got the car, I filled it up with gas and started driving and it died. We checked the fuses and the fuel pump fuse had burned out so we changed it and all was right again.
I bought this as a high mileage car (60K) in 2007 and have not done much to it since (air filter, oil, tires, brakes). Yes, that means I have not gotten my transmission fluid changed or any recommended dealer maintenance.
My Dads 92 Volvo's engine is making a knocking noise and I'm wondering what the possible causes are. He doesn't take that great care of it but it didn't over heat or anything. It sounds like it is making a loud knocking or clicking noise directly from the engine when you accelerate. It still runs but definitely has a lack of power.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
View 5 RepliesI have the stock 16-inch Bioline wheels on my '10 JSW TDI. After hitting a big pothole on the Pennsylvania turnpike (stupid of me, I know), the car started to shake noticeably above 55 m.p.h. Tire pressure was normal. When I replaced the wheel (right front) with the spare, the shaking went away.
Did I damage the wheel? Normally, I would attribute shaking to the alignment being off, but---again---the car doesn't shake when the spare is on. I would have thought it would take more to damage a 16-inch alloy wheel, but what do I know?
I'm trying to decide whether I should pay to have the alignment checked or start scouring the classifieds for a replacement wheel already.
Searched and posted to the Facebook group. Figured I'd cover all bases by posting here too. The noise my cooling fan makes is now noticeably louder than it was in the past. Mentioned to my shop and they said it has two stages, and that perhaps the first stage is no longer functioning, so only the second stage is running.
View 4 RepliesMy passenger side is clunking pretty noticeably and if I kick the tire at the top you can see play in arms and it clunks. Im am a little short on cash to buy control arm kit right now (unemployed) Just wanna know if I can just deal with the clunking or is this gonna snap like a tie-rod (been there) and possibly lead to a disaster?? Fast responses highly urged.
View 21 RepliesMy issue is my camry has gotten considerably louder. I know its currently winter but even with good weather and its idle still gets noticeably loud. has like a low grumbling, grinding noise. The car has about 72k miles on it i do my oil change roughly every 5k miles. i put full synthetic 0w-20 into the engine. As of late have been working a lot about 2 weeks ago i checked the oil levels and it didn't register on the dip stick. went to my friends house the next day and did an oil change. added 0w-20. fwe also replaced the valve cover gasket this past sunday as well as the spark plugs. I'm not sure if the lack of oil might've caused this issue or if it has to do with my exhaust system. Sounds more like its coming from the exhaust manifold or somewhere in-between. When we were changing my oil my friend did indicate that my car did touch bottom. I'm not sure the best way to approach this. Should i just take it to the dealer and have them look into why it has become much louder?
2007 Toyota Camry SE I4
72K Miles
0w-20 synthetic oil full
I own a 98 Deville with 125k miles and bad upper rear knuckle bushings, seems common. At highway speeds, the rear of the car floats noticeably and on a rainy road, it is down right dangerous to drive. My logic is that it is a BUSHING! They make all different sizes and surely there is bushing that is the size I need and a way to press out the old and press in the new. I have the right rear off the car now and will pay a visit to my local mom and pop automotive machine shop to see what can be done. Even if they need to bore out the inside diameter of the knuckle to accept an over sized bushing, there has got to be a way.
View 11 RepliesToday the flow rate of the air out of the vents on my Prius has noticeably dropped.
It makes no different which vents I select (front, feet, or windscreen).
The blower seems fine - it's still making its normal noise.
The air still blows out nice and cold, there just isn't much of it coming out, even on full blast.
I've pulled the cabin air filter and checked it's not clogged, so it seems like there must be a blockage downstream of the blower.
I bought my 2012 F250 CC SB 6.2 back in December and really haven't had the truck in 4x4. Today we got a bit of snow. The roads were slippery so I engaged the 4x4 ESOF while at a stop sign (I know, didn't have to be stopped but I was so I put it in 4x4) The driveline was noticeably louder.
I had a relatively constant hum that almost reminded me of a wheel bearing going bad. If you've ever experienced a wheel bearing going bad the sound gets louder as you go faster. I'm sure it's not a wheel bearing since it only makes the sound in 4x4.
It's a fairly annoying sound and is louder than my old 99 F350. Notice the driveline being significantly louder in 4x4? There are no driving issues just a louder sound than what I was used to. I have the full Ford Certified warranty and can bring it in but I thought I'd run it by the brain trust here to get thoughts before going to the dealer.
I haven't been needing the A/C til recently due to the heat. When I have passengers in the rear and the A/C is set to just be body flow ( vs. body and feet), the rear blows but is noticeably weaker than the front. When I set it to both body and feet, the rear vents don't have any body flow and it is the same flow as when the rear is just set to feet. I went thru the manual and there doesn't appear to be anything incorrect (I am not in S mode) but the rear is just very weak in general with the controls on full.
View 5 RepliesI have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?