I had to change the battery in 1994 Volvo 850, and now the radio won't play because it needs the "code" to reset it. However, the owner's manuals are long-gne, and I don't know what the code is. how to re-set the radio without the code?
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 camry w factory alarm and the battery died out..When i replaced it the radio didn't come on. What is the procedure to reset it? The code is on the front -16408.
After turning on I tried holding the 1 button with tune up and saw nothing on screen. The fuses are ok and the cd player eject button works(is on top of radio/cassette player). Nothing comes on screen through entire procedure.
What to try to even pull it up for entering code?
I can't find a listing for a 511 diagnostic code for my 1994 960.
View 1 Replies1994, 960 ... The vacuum controller has two "vacuum lines" attached to it. Should both lines have vacuum present? I keep getting a 241 code with sporadic idle and check engine light.
View 3 RepliesI reset the MPG on the dash computer and the car died and won't. Start.
View 4 RepliesPosting for a friend, 2002 Volvo s60 5 cylinder N/A. She got in a fender bender, only seems to be cosmetic damage. Airbags did not deploy. Says it stayed on long enough to pull off the road and then cut out and wouldn't start. I'm not familiar with volvos and any information i have found online is completely contradicting.
Assuming Ecu cut fuel after impact, I have read there's " a switch under the dash" which I find unlikely. Other info say to replace fuel relay and many say it has to be taken to dealer and hooked up. Any information as to reset the pump after it's been immobilized?
Had an iPod adapter put in about two months ago first of all. Sirius stopped working this week. Radio is saying no signal. Sirius tried resetting the signal but nothing. They said maybe a loose connection.
View 12 RepliesI am currently having an issue with my 1994 volvo 850 where the key wont turn anymore?
View 2 RepliesMy wives 2006 Passat, with stock radio, has an issue where the default stero level is too high. I've gone into the options and tried to turn down the starting volume, but it won't go down, only up. Is their someway to reset the stero back to default original settings or something? It's really startling at night when you hit the key and something is that loud!
View 10 RepliesI have a problem with my 1994 Volvo 940 GL. When I turn on the headlights (light knob pointing to the right) the headlights do not come on, the rear lights aren't on, the dashboard lighting turns off, etc... I don't know about the brake lights, i bet they work fine...
What's odd is that if i set the knob to the middle (pointing up), the rear lights come on, dashboard lighting works, and front-side lights come on as usual. In order to drive at night, I have to set the knob to the middle, and hold down the brights (which work fine).
There are two issues with my 1994 Volvo 940 (automatic). They may or may not be related, but that is why I'm asking.
1) When the engine is cold and at a stop sign the engine will rev up and down. After the engine warms up, the issue goes away.
2) Also when the engine is cold, when taking off from a stop the car doesn't seem to want to go.
You can mash the gas all the was down and it just kind of slowly gains speed. Eventually (5-10 seconds) it will act like normal and go and shift fine. I hope that is enough info and makes sense. I'm just trying to see what the problem could be and how to fix it.
Volvo 940 1994 engine shuts off while driving?
View 1 RepliesI have a vibration that comes and goes at a regular interval. Starts at about 60+ MPH on up. Most apparent between 70 & 75 MPH. The steering wheel will visibly vibrate for about 3 seconds and become completely smooth for 1 to 2 seconds. This vibration interval repeats over and over, in Drive or Neutral. I have replaced both outer tie rod ends, driver side wheel bearing, L & R stabilizer bars, rotors, pads and calipers. Passenger side motor mount which was visibly broken, others all ok. Finally, I just replaced both axle shafts with brand new ones. Front tires are in balance and round! At lower speeds, 60 and below it is smooth as silk. Bumps sound good, no rattle noises or loose sounds. No pulling left or right.
View 2 RepliesMy 1994 850 turbo will crank but will not start. it started when the car was having trouble accelerating past 40 mph and felt like it was kicking back then it died on the freeway and now will not start. i ran the error codes and got these back, from A2 452, 455, 543, 544, 545, 552, 555 and from A7 122. I'm not sure what to do?
View 4 RepliesSo, my 94 Volvo 940 has about 315k miles on it and everything works great except during the intense heat of the summer. It drives fine for about an hour or two, but anything north of two hours with temps in the high 80s will cause the car to eventually stall - usually the engine just sounds like it's misfiring for a few seconds, then I lay on the gas to find that there's no acceleration and pull over where it will eventually shut down. I let it cool down for about 15 minutes, then it will start fine and drive for a little while before stalling again. It seems that the longer I let it cool down, the more time I get out of it.
I've tried replacing the fuel relay and noise suppression relay. I always just guessed it was the noise suppression relay because it is located right next to the engine, and I just thought the soldering would melt when it gets too hot, then come back together after cooling. But, maybe this is totally off. I also replaced the mass air flow sensor before, but it had slightly different symptoms, and those have not come back. My problem now only happens on longer drives in the summer.
I have a 2002 Avalon XLS with 160K. I recently had the clock spring replaced by a friend, which fixed what it was supposed to fix - airbag light went off, cruise works, horn works. He did disconnect the battery when he did the work.
Whenever I turn off the car, and turn it back on, the time and date have resent to default, and I lose all the radio settings like stations, bass, treble, etc.
I have to admit I'm not sure if the current problem started RIGHT after the clock spring work, or a bit later. I'm thinking I would have noticed it right away. But I know the time/date and radio settings did work right before.
I've scoured the internet and can't find an actual answer - a lot of "could be". My hope is that the "secondary, memory" power fuse is blown.
The past summer my 1994 Volvo 940 non-turbo over heated and we worked on the coolant system and got it working god again. However just after we fixed it the headlights blew out and we replaced them and then they blew out again. The battery was also going dead when the car was turned off and all electric things were turned off. Now the head lights don't blow but once they are turned on with the switch in the car they cant be turned off unless the battery is disconnected.
Also as of now none of the dash board instruments are working. With the car on and the lights turned on we pulled the connector to the switch that turns on the lights, that is on the dashboard, and the lights still stayed on. We can only think that some water may be causing the problem but it may or may not. I need to know how to fix the headlight problem and the instrument panel.
(1994 Volvo 850 2.4L L5 Base) whenever i accelerate i get high RPM's but now actual acceleration. i cleaned the MAF and it worked for a short time then it began happening again. so i ran the codes and i got back A1- 121, 131. A2- 121, 121. A3- 141, 142, 213, 214, 311, 312. A6- 131.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1994 volvo 940 turbo, the transmission has been fine, but today out of nowhere the car will not rev past 2500rpm. But only when its in drive, if i drop it to 1st or 2nd it will rev fine?
View 1 RepliesMy '94 Volvo Sedan just loses power, no dash lights come on, it just silently dies. It starts right back up. I took it to a mechanic who checked out the fuel pumps (he said there were 2) and they tested fine. He replaced the fuel filter. It is still dying. It seems to happen when it is hotter, mornings are fine. It hasn't happened in the last few days because the temp has been about 82 tops. I read earlier today on this site that it could be the ignition module. I have replaced the air filter, and am running fuel injector cleaner also.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1994 Volvo 940 and have previously owned a 740 for many years. I've only owned this car for about 1 month. The car appears to have been well cared for. Doesn't leak a drop of any fluids, everything works, and mostly a really nice old car. What happens is that it idles rough when it's cold. In fact, I have to pump the gas pedal to keep it going. When I first start off, the performance is less than what it should be too. Once it get warm, it mostly runs fine.
I have so far replaced, the Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor. All the vacuum lines, crank position sensor, Air Mass Meter and the fuel filter and most all the fuel lines too. The Fuel Pump Relay was replaced but I removed it and saw a few cold solders and fixed those but no changes in performance. Before I replaced the Air Mass Meter I brought it to local shop and they returned a readout of 2-3-2 which I'm understanding means running too lean. That's why I replaced the Air Mass Meter. (I did notice a big improvement once I replaced the Air Mass Meter too.) It was interesting that when I replaced the Distributor Cap, I noticed like black carbon in there and I'm not sure what could cause that. Although, I did find the previous plugs were not all the same. Three of them were high spark performance plugs and one was just normal
I pulled the Idle Air Control Valve and plugged one side to ground and the other side to 12V and noticed the flapper moving when powered on/off. The previous owner told me he replaced both fuel pumps about two years ago. It also looks like the fuel regulator valve is mostly new.
I'm guessing now that I have a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve or perhaps the Fuel Temp Sensor under the intake manifold. I purchased the Fuel Temp Sensor and just have not installed it yet. I really don't want to remove the intake manifold but I know it's not going to be that bad. I know that it could be carbon build up on the intake valves but I'm not quite convinced yet. I put some fuel cleaner in the tank to see if that works and so far nothing yet. The car only has 150K on it and I was told that during the owner before me did do highway driving.
When it's warm, the car does run very very well. The idle is still a bit quirky even when warm. For instance, when I power on the A/C, the idle RPM doesn't increase like I expect that it should. (It did on my 740) ... I'm still thinking maybe it's the Idle Air Control Valve too. Perhaps it's intermittent or do I understand that they can gradually open and gradually close?