Volvo :: Boost Gauge Is Hitting Almost 1.5 Bar And Dropping To About 0.9 Bar?
Nov 22, 2015
I have recently purchased a c70 t5 which supposedly had been remapped. Anyway this weekend I changed the ICarScan unit and pipework, replaced the turbo vacuum lines and it has had a full service oil,plugs,rotor arm and cap etc. Prior to this it would occasionally pull aggressively and other times not. Now it boost all the time and feels good, however I noticed the boost gauge is now hitting almost 1.5 bar and dropping to about 0.9 bar. What could be causing this. In addition to the above work I removed the nasty badly modified inlet pipe and fitted an original between the air box and turbo. Which connection go where so I can ensure I am correct.
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Ok so my 2002 gti is having some boost problems... Instead of hitting boost consistently the boost is fluctuating for example hitting 12 psi then 15 psi and it just hits and bounces back to 0. what could be problem I was thinking bad downpipe, bad waste gate, or bad n75 valve.
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I recently purchased an 03 GLX wagon 4 motion from a dealer as is. It had 84,000 on it when I got it and needed a timing belt. The work was performed by a VW dealer and all has been well until today. I was on the highway, had been working the car pretty well for about an hour and i noticed that the temp gauge which is at 190 religiously is now dropped down as low as 120- 130.
I continued to drive, thinking maybe just a bad sensor/gauge considering I had no check engine light yet. I still have good heat but when I got home I noticed that the coolant reservoir was bubbling pretty fierce. Couldn't tell if it was boiling or if it was compression coming back in from perhaps a head gasket failure.
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Bad news kids... it's terminal. Took my 95 3/4 ton 4X4 6.5 diesel suburban in complaining of temp gauge going high and dropping, alternator... ball joint fears.... And I just got a call, it's got a cracked head. So this is how it ends. Husband aint never gonna fix it. I knew this day was coming. He said the temp gauge going high then dropping is some sort of coolant preasure build up and release. I seen it every morning for the last year. He said he took her up to 120 kms and it did exactly what I said. And he knows exactly what my problem is. It's true, Toni knows this truck. So any guesses how long I got? What will happen when it goes? When would you park it for good? My last over heat was a couple years ago when a belt blew off, big heat is the only thing that would have cracked a head right? So the crack might be that old. And it's sad news. Driving it since birth, 95.
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Just traded in a 2012 Nissan Sentra SR on a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport and have a question about the gas mileage.
My Sentra always read 28+ MPG, but it was a known issue that the reading was almost exactly 3 MPG off; thus, I was hitting about 25 MPG most of the time. I could typically get by for a week and a half, sometimes two on a single tank (which was about 11 gallons).
I took the Santa Fe home on Thursday night, filled up from the dealer and reading a range of 384 MTE. As of tonight (Saturday), my fuel meter is reading two notches over the halfway mark and the range has dropped to 232 MTE. I haven't driven anywhere near 150 miles since Thursday, FYI.
The MPG on the Santa Fe started t a measly 12 MPG when I left the lot, most likely due to sitting and idling and lots of stop-and-go driving on test drives. I've since managed to get it up to 22.2 MPG (and feel confident it should eventually read about 25 MPG, about the same as my Sentra). Even though the MPG reading is going up, I feel like I'm going to be filling up the tank again without hitting a full week of driving (and this is a bigger tank than the Sentra). I'm not getting the difference. Is there an issue that I'm missing here? After checking in with the dealer that the previous owners used for service to ensure there were no red flags, they did tell me that it had an active bulletin for a software update. I've read in other places here that this update can have some effect on the MPG. Any thought on if these things are connected?
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Just recently got a sweet deal on an 01 Lariat with a very low mileage 5.4L. I almost didn't purchase it because the oil pressure gauge will not read when you start the engine. Sometimes it will sometimes not.
When it does read, it is just past half which is the normal reading. When it doesn't read, it shows zero and the light is on. The engine runs fine either way, and the previous owner said it has been that way for years. The engine has been well cared for, and has been running Mobile 1 full synthetic for most of the 80k miles. The oil was not overly dirty at purchase, so I figured it to be a loose connection. I suffer from the cold solder joints that these trucks are plaqued with, as evident by the intermittent odometer reading. Do you think the oil gauge issue is the same thing? A cold solder joint? Or should i just start with a new sender?
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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One day, I was on the highway and my Pontiac's speed started dropping. I looked at the temperature gauge, and the temperature was really high. I flushed the coolant system, and changed the gasket. Also the mechanic said that the oil might be leaking after they changed the oil. I paid like $700 for something that has nothing to do with the problem (I paid for a spark plug, ignition wires, fuel filter, and an oxygen sensor). After they changed the oil, oil started leaking all over my driveway, which didn't happen before. It also looked like coolant was leaking out. None of this happened before I got my oil changed with these guys.
After I changed the gasket, the car was running smoothly. But today, the same thing happened again, and I don't know if it's the thermostat, or water pump, or oil leaking, or coolant. The mechanic always suggests to fix something that doesn't have to do with the problem. I don't have much money on hand, so I need to only fix what has to do with the temperature rising, and I need my car to run.
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Driving into work this morning I noticed that my car was a bit sluggish. So in the name of science (mainly curiousity) I decided, that I would try to punch it. Came to find out that my girl is runnin a little sluggish. Turbo was pulling as hard as it normally does, and my gauge was saying that im only hitting 9lbs when usually its around 11lbs. Could this be a sign of my turbo going out and now is time for a k04-22 or is it time to change the springs in my 007?
by the way I just rolled over 113k. had all the services done at 104k
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It starts and idles fine and drives fine until the turbo spools and gets past atmospheric.. at this point the acceleration gets worse even though you can clearly hear the turbo blowing (gauge well into the yellow).. checked the ground connections on the head and intake, seemed good, replaced tps, replaced knock sensor, replaced hall sensor, tried another ecu, checked cam timing. Had a volvo mechanic friend looking at it prior to my fiddling with it and he seemed to think the ignition timing was retarded too much.. but I've done everything i can think of to tackle that problem.
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I have a 95 850 Turbo that I've been having a low boost (5-6psi) issue since changing the PCV about a year ago. Prior to changing the PCV it would boost most of the white in the gauge (have since installed an actual gauge). I installed a basic AF gauge and it ALWAYS reads rich (i suppose its better then lean right). I've changed the MAF, EBC, plugs, front O2 and vacuum lines.
The OBD1 reads it as a bad MAF, but I doubt that's it, i know sometimes issues are shown as one thing when its something along that line. I've installed a manual boost controller and set it to 13psi (performance computer installed by previous owner so its ok) but the engine still feel s like its running out of "OOMPH". Did a smoke test and couldn't find any leaks in the vacuum system.
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I have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
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So popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
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1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto.gas gauge drop to all most empty when driving.then i can hit a bump in the road and it will go back to normal.
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Does the XC90 have a very weak radio reception? Some of the FM stations that were normally very strong in my other cars were weak at the XC90, and some of the AM stations that were normally okay got no signal at all at the XC90. Is there anything I can do to boose the radio reception?
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How accurate is the stock boost gauge on 02 wrx? is it a real boost gauge or is it just for show? 3000gt vr4 has one, but it is not a real one and work with maf sensor only. also is stock bov good for 15-16 psi. we have a stock 02 wrx and we are thinking to up the boost to about 1 bar, but not sure i can trust the stock boost gauge. the car also has catback and cold air intake on it.
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When I give my car some gas my boost gauge fluctuates a lot and doesn't hold, I have an OEM piston style dv revision d I believe, and I have a catch can and also a blow off valve, and I'm stage 2. I was thinking of getting an awe diverter valve?
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I just purchased a b5 99 1.8t. The tubing from the intake manifold to the dv was cut by accident (long story, dont ask).I replaced the dv and tubing .I want to check if the psi is correct. I dont have a boost gauge.
What are the ways to check it besides a boost gauge? I think the correct psi is around 6-8 ?
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I'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
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I have a strange problem, my boost guage needle is jumping like crazy, there is no vacuum leak and the max boost i get is 0.5 bar, when the guage needle is not jumping I get a boost of 1.4 bar. I have mechanical boost control.
97' passat B5 1.8T AEB with FMIC,K04-15,2.75",chip (that was made for the original k03).
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