Pitching noise coming from front end - Replacing Xc90 Front Wheel Bearings / hub Assembly? I believe they are bad based upon the pitch of the sound coming from the front end. Are they press in?
View 2 Replies03 xc90 with 83k miles.
Its got the "no oil pressure stop engine safely" light coming on when it gets up to running temps.
I am having my mechanic drop the pan, clean for sludge and replace all the seals and O-rings.
Which O-rings need to be replaced. I read somewhere there are 5, I bought the set along with the volvo sealant but need to give exact instruction to my mechanic on which seals to replace (he is not a volvo guy) and I dont remember which ones.
I purchased my 2004 XC90 2.5T today. it's got 150k miles.
1. there is a clunking sound coming from the driver strut, I'm thinking it is the bushing on top.
2. should i just replace the whole strut assembly? if so is there a diy? and a kit for this?
3. Rear window doesn't stay up, im thinking the sliders on the window are broken?
4. most importantly, whats the best iPod / iPhone hook up for the volvo.
5. also what mods for keeping it clean.
Attached File(s) : IMG_4763.jpg ( 1.44MB )
My 2004 Volvo XC 90 has a severe "thump" in the front end, which is then followed by a very brief (split second) internal (meaning dashboard lights, hi-fi, dome lights, etc) power failure. Initially, the power failure would last only a split second and then car would continue running as normal, and there we no error codes or check engine lights.
But on the last long drive home, the "thump" was harder than usual, and the lights internally completely went out, hazard lights could not be turned on, blinkers could not be switched on, hi-fi went out, etc (though the electric windows would work). I pulled over, and turned the car off and restarted it, and the yellow exclamation point dashboard icon/alert lit up, and a service message flashed referring to the anti-lock brake failure, and that the SRS needed to be checked.
This problem has been occurring for a couple of months, and is very intermittent. Before this last incident, I took it into the dealership, who could not figure it out,. Now that I have an error code, I have it at another dealership, who seems equally mystified and have told me that they don't think the error code of check the SRS is going to fix the problem. The engine thump, followed by electrical failure seems really weird....
Scenario- Start car, back up, and cut wheel to the left out of the driveway. There is a loud, crushed can noise. Yes, just as if I had run over a can, but didn't. This only happens if the air conditioner is on.
View 5 RepliesI'd like to pin down the issue before dismantling the whole thing.
So my XC90 started creating noise very much like this video (note: this is not my vid) [URL] .....
The car recently got most commonly problematic suspension parts replaced to no cure to the noise.
Mechanic said that it is the steering rack but can't tell what exactly is making the noise.
We just bought a 2011 XC90 in Jan 2011. About a week ago we noticed that when you are using the brake and turning a corner there is a weird noise coming from the front end. It only does it at low speeds. It doesn't do it if you turn and you are not pressing the brakes. You can also feel it in the brake pedal as well. I hope this makes sense. We love this car and really don't want to regret that we bought it. Just really confused on how a 2 month old vehicle can be already making a weird noise.
View 17 RepliesSometimes, when I take off from a red light or stop sign, my car makes a thump. This feels as if it is under the car, not a transmission shift noise. It would seem to me that it has to do with exhaust or fuel???? I am guessing.
View 6 RepliesI just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
View 4 RepliesI have a weird issue - I think. I recently purchased a 2005 Volvo XC90 V8 with about 150k miles. The car runs great and is really in good shape. The one issue I have is that sometimes the car wont start. There is just a clicking noise when turning the key. This only seems to happen immediately after the car is stopped. If I wait 10-15 minutes the car starts up just fine.
View 11 Replies105K miles, developing a groaning noise when turning steering wheel during low speeds and stopped. Can feel slightly through steering column. No other problems, no clunking or any grinding noises, just "groaning" sound on initial movement. Fluid is full. While searching fix, I found this article on the C70 model, sounds like I might have same thing on my XC90. [URL] ....
View 6 RepliesI have owned a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4L for the past two years, and she has served me well. However, I have been having issues lately. She has hit 179,400-ish miles and with age things have started to fail. I want to know how much it will cost to fix these things and if I can do it myself.
There is a metallic popping noise coming from the right front side of the vehicle every time I make a turn (I haven't particularly noticed if it's a left- or right-hand turn when it happens.) I have been advised by my father that it's probably a CV (constant velocity) joint. Is that what's causing the noise?
My right front headlight has gone out, and I've replaced the bulb as well as the fuse, but it's still out. Could it be faulty wiring? The left front blinker has stopped blinking, I hope that's as simple as changing out the bulb.
The shift is automatic, but in the mornings (I've noticed it's mostly when it's cold outside) I attempt to move the shifter out of park and it won't budge for several minutes. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off, and then turn it back on for the shifter to move.
One last question- how often should I change and/or flush my transmission fluid and the filter, and can I do that myself or should I take it to the dealership? (Which I am reluctant to do.)
I've been in some version of a Volvo since I inherited my parents brick-colored sedan in high school. It was a tank, ran forever and kept me safe and protected. Years later I bought a new black Volvo sedan. In 2006 with a hubby and two kids, I decided that I could graduate to the SUV. Feeling like I'd made a fantastically safe and practical decision, I drive my silver XC90 to work and on road trips. It's not the fanciest nor sexiest vehicle, but I feel my family is safe.
Hard working folks should not have huge budget surprises like my Volvo SUV has turned into. Little did I know what I was getting myself into when I made this purchase. When I took it into the Culver City dealer for my 30,000 mile service yesterday, I found out that my Volvo XC90 needed it's second replacement rotors and brake pads. I'd already been through this expense at 17,000 miles, much to my surprise. I'd never heard of needing to replace brake pads and rotors at 17,000.
Now, at 30,000 miles the local dealer's service department told me I needed another set at a cost of $1,000.
I have friends driving a Toyota or a Honda that rarely require maintenance or repairs. Volvo is an expensive vehicle to buy and it gets you every time you visit the service department and all repairs are expensive. It's disappointing to say the least.
I have just replaced the rear discs and pads on a 2008 XC90 which has solved the problem I had with them. However, the parking brake is not working. When the old discs came off they did so easily without any resistance and the new ones went on just as easily so as far as I can tell the parking brakes weren't disturbed. The parking brake did come on after 3-5 clicks before this work was completed and now they are not operating after 8 clicks so am at a loss to understand this problem.
View 5 RepliesRE: 2007 Volvo XC90 90k miles
Pulled into my driveway last night with the power steering working intermittently for last 5 minute leg of my trip. Woke up this morning with no power steering and sqealing noise coming from engine.
No fluid leak on driveway. Drove to dealer with no power steering. Very hard to turn wheel - even while moving.
Dealer checked and said it was not a fluid issue and that they thought a screw might have fallen out and needed to take apart the rear of the engine (a 5-6 hour job) just to diagnose the problem.
A screw from the steering column in the rear engine?
I have a 2003 Volvo XC90, 2.5T AWD ... Since two weeks no start, no crank, when I turn the key in the ignition nothing happened, only the navigation screen is going off. I try the second key and it is doing the same. It happened when battery goes very low.
I try to scan it with different scanners and the same DTC is showing: (ECM-720A: Immobiliser communication)
Someone said I must remove the ECM and the ECU, read the both and use "Volvo Synchro V1.4 Loader" synchronize and program the key but i do not really know how to do it. Is it possible to do immo off ?
The VIN number is: YV1CZ59G741071108
I have a 2003 Volvo XC90 that turns over but will not start. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once by the car lot I purchased the vehicle from - the car worked for maybe a week and the problem returned, and the second time by the Volvo dealership - again the car worked initially, maybe another week and the problem returned. I'm not even sure if it is the fuel pump, but after two fuel pumps, I'm thinking that the issue may be something else.
I'm not sure if Volvo Dealership ran a full diagnostic or not, because they replaced the fuel pump because of the recall. Each time the car was "fixed" the car would start maybe after 3 seconds of cranking (which is long compared to my other cars that catch immediately) but on subsequent starts the 3 turns into 10 seconds, 15 seconds or so the next time, until eventually it just does not catch and I drain the battery in attempting to.
It has actually been "fixed" three times, but the second time a fuse was replaced, and it worked, and deteriorated exactly the same way as the other times until it no longer started again. I'm hoping that the nature of how it begins failing can be of some assistance, I feel as if some type of pressure or something is being lost over time, the way it takes longer and longer to start before it decides not to.
Have 2014 XC-90 w/10k miles. Problem is sporadic (has happened approx 10-15 times over past year).
From standing stop (stop light, etc) -- press on accelerator and VERY LITTLE to no acceleration. Engine continues to run smoothly -- no indication of fuel starvation, no roughness --- just no acceleration. It does NOT appear to be transmission oriented because when it finally "kicks in" there is no feeling of transmission shifting or wild tach movement (to indicate that there was a changing of the gears, etc). I get things back to "normal" by pumping the accelerator (usually a reflex action because the are vehicles behind me wanting to "go"). VERY disconcerting issue.
Local Volvo dealer says "cannot find any error messages", etc. My only complaint with the car -- second XC-90 and 5th Volvo.
We have a 2007 XC90 and there is some issue where the car locks itself. It happens when the key is not in the ignition. I'll get out of the car and without pushing anything on the key tab it will lock. Then it will not unlock unless you hit lock, then unlock.
It happens all the time. Sometimes 30 minutes to an hour after getting out of the car and parking it in our garage. We rarely lock the car in our garage but we almost always find it locked.
Some observations....
- Seems to happen more often in the cold.
- Seems to be an issue with the car (educated guess) and not the key as it locks itself even when the key is completely out of range.
I had my radiator replaced last month and the day after I got it back from the shop the instrument cluster died (sort of). It functions intermittently but is off a majority of the time. I can tease it on by pressing the on the front of the cluster in the lower left corner but it goes out again when I let off the pressure. I called the shop and they told me there was no way that any work they had done replacing the radiator could cause the cluster to go out, but I am not so sure.
Since then I have been driving not aware of my speed (I actually have an app that gives me my speed but is a sad workaround) or knowing how much fuel I have in the car at any given moment. And, as you who know what type of money pit I am driving, all of the notifications to warn me when something is wrong. which it usually is, are located in the cluster as well. As soon as I have a working cluster I will sell it.
I'm the guy with the XC90 in Gabon. Someone brought me some power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil,......but I forgot to ask for radiator fluid....crap!
Today I got the red triangle and low coolant warning...topping it off with water made it go away, but I need some fluid. I can't get Pentosin radiator fluid here. Is there another kind of radiator fluid I can put in the car that will mix with the existing stuff? If I just get ethylene glycol base will that work?
Or....If I drain it all,out and start over from scratch...does it matter what kind of fluid I put in?