Xc 90 D5 2.4 2005 diesel, will not start when it's cold (below +5 degrees), If I use the pre heater for 3 min it starts fine.
I have checked the injectors (leak back test). I checked the glow plugs and they all glow red when I turn on the ignition.
No error codes (Volvo has checked)
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Just recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 started having problems when starting on cold days. I live In PA and it just started to dip below 40 degrees. When I go to start my vehicle it will crank over longer like its is not getting fuel or something else. It will eventually start and when I turn it off quickly it will start up fine or after it is warm it will start up normal. When the vehicle sits for some hours and its cold outside it will have trouble starting again. The battery is fine had it tested and cca are just below what the norm is for the battery. Today the temperature was 52 and the vehicle started up just fine with no hesitation or prolonged start.
Another thing that happens when its cold out is right after you put the vehicle in drive and give it gas to start moving it will chug a couple of times before it will have full power then its fine. This has only been happening in the winter. I didn't have any problems with the chugging in the summer.
My F250 Will not start once the oil temp reaches about 117 degrees. Once oil temp drops it fires up. In the morning it only crranks for a couple of seconds. What could this be? I am getting over 1300 PSI HPOP while cranking. FICM Volts 48.5. Just no hot start. What do you think it is and how much at the repair shop. I have the Torque App, IPR values are good to I think.
View 10 RepliesJust purchased a 2003 F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel w/ 192,000 miles. This truck will be used exclusively for pulling my 36', 8,000lbs travel trailer. I have a 2011 F-150 Ecoboost as my daily driver. The 2003 was purchased from a used dealer in Texas and is in immaculate condition and was definitely not a work truck. It was a 55 degree day and the truck was inside their building when I picked it up. No starting issues then and drove it the 3 hour 70-75mph trip home, with 2 stops on the way (wife was along) with no issues. Started quick and ran like a champ. The next morning it was 32 degrees outside and it would not start. I cycled the key on & off several times prior to starting and still no start. Plugged the heater in and 1 hour later it fired up. I have noticed since that if the outdoor temperature is below 55 degrees, it will not start without being plugged in. When plugged in, it starts easy, no smoke, purrs like a tiger at idle and runs great. I Have started on a mental list of things to check.....here goes:
1. The dealer stated he just changed the oil & filter. Can't rely on this 100 percent so I plan to put new 15W40 oil and filter in. Oklahoma summers are pretty warm.
2. Check the FICM for 48 voltage output.
3. The glow plug indicator on the dash is working. The colder it is outside, the longer it stays on. If the indicator is working, is this an indicator that the glow plug relay is working? Anyway....plan to check this relay.
4. Pull one or two glow plugs, ones easy to get to, to verify their function.
5. Check both batteries....I assume they will have to be disconnected from one another before doing this.
I have been working on gasoline engines for 40 years and no stranger to busted knuckles & dirty fingernails.....just new to diesel engines. I am impressed however with their construction and method of operating.
I'm TSing a no-start on my 2005 6.0L F250. Engine cranks fine. I've been working my way thru the TSing guide and using my new ScanGaugeII. No codes found. At glow plug warmup, (dash light goes off), I'm getting 40.5v FMP, 11.0v FLP, 14.8% ICP, and 0psi IPR. After cranking for 10-15 sec, get 35.5v, 10.0v, 84.7%, and 446psi. I've had a trickle charger on all night to keep the batteries charged. Have not seen FMP over 45 or IPR over 470.
View 14 RepliesMy 2001 Volvo S60 2.4T 148,000 miles starts up fine in the winter and in the morning's in the summer. However, if its 85 degrees or above in the summer and the car is warmed up and I'm running errands, stopping and restarting the engine. The car will crank and sputter before it starts or it will not start. These are the dealers notes from last year: RPM signal not good. Checked for relevant codes none found. Tested fuel pressure it is OK. Found when problem exists the tach bounces and the RPM sensor signal is erratic. Needless to say I declined the extra $300 to pay for more diagnostics. When the problem reoccurred this year I took it to my local Volvo tech and they replaced the RPM sensor at the cost of $180 for parts and labor.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
View 5 RepliesMy mechanic installed a battery about a year and I have to get my battery charged each time the weather gets cold or snowy. I have had the battery charged 2 times this month.I have had this same problem last year calling motor clubs to charge my battery. My car is snowed in and shovel is stuck in my trunk because it will not open because my car wont start. I do not even know if there is a warrantee on the battery ...it may be a used battery.
View 7 Repliesmy 2007 3.2 s80, 75 K miles, will not respond to accelerator for the first 1-2 miles after a cold start, then runs fine, no check engine light has shown. Per shop recommendation switched to 92 octane x3tanks, then replaced fuel sensor, neither solved.
View 15 RepliesThis 1996 (220KM) car will run fine (perfect)for about ten minutes from cold (I'm talking -5 C)then starts to misfire when warmed up. Difficult to pull away (automatic) from a stop. Sound like its missing on two cylinders. Really chunters.
Installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,filter. Don't know what to check next. Car will work at speed but I can feel it missing. Gun it and it will go. Doesn't appear to be a fuel problem.
We have a 2009 S60 2.5T that has trouble starting in temps around 25 degrees and below. It skips/hesitates when cranking.
View 7 RepliesI recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common? 2005 Xc90 2.5t...
Car is fully warmed up (200 deg) and the vents blast ice cold air even on 84 deg temp setting. If I put it on hi-temp it blasts really hot air (like it should). Why I can't get in between temps? This has been going on for 3 weeks now but not all the time.
View 8 RepliesI have been looking for a solution to a noise my 07 S60R GT has been making for about two months now. After a cold start there is a chriping/whistling noise that lasts a few minutes at idle. The noise will go away at idle but is constant under heavy load in any gear. The Volvo dealer told me it was the SNABB intake but the noise started well after I installed this with no noise initially. They said its not from sepentine belt or pulleys. It sounds as though its coming from the turbo area. Car still drives/pulls fine but makes shrieking / chirping / whistle when I get on it ( which is most of the time).
View 1 RepliesA minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
I've had my '07 Volvo S40 2.4i for almost a year. It has a little over 60K miles on it and is serviced regularly. Within the last 3 months, I've noticed some weird things happening occasionally:
-Trouble starting when cold (I understand this is pretty common with a lot of cars.)
-Headlights & interior lights flickering
-Going over "bumps" in road causing dash display lights to illuminate for a second, radio to shut off, and loud system "BEEP" comes through the speakers (this has happened 3 times total, all on the same day.)
-AC stops cooling periodically I've had the system scanned for the AC issue and it seems that there was a "Pump pressure" message that cleared itself at one point and am guessing the same thing has happened the next few times it's done this.
I also asked that the battery be checked to see if it needed to be replaced soon. The mechanic said the battery was fine and thinks it's something wrong with the entire electrical system.
My 2005 Prius, 88K miles, has developed an odd quirk. For about a month, the AC will not retain the last temperature setting. For example, you drive the car, set the temperature to max cold, arrive at your destination, turn the car off and when you start it again the temperature has reset to 75 degrees. Never used to do this before. I'm hoping it is just a module of some sort and not a major AC repair.
View 6 RepliesI just bought an 05 F350 and it starts fine when cold but after I drive it a while will not start even after sitting for up to an hour (overnight cold start fires right up). I replaced 1 battery and alternator and it started up right after install but after driving for a while still have the problem - cranks fine but will not start.
Buddy of mine has the same truck (just a 250) and had this same problem recently and had to replace the High Pressure Oil Pump, which was super expensive! This is my first diesel truck and it runs like a champ (once it starts!)
Having issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
View 3 Replies05, 170k miles. Studded and egr delete but I don't have paperwork on either. Got a pretty good deal on the truck but I have a few questions..
It runs and starts great, warm and cold, with only a little blue smoke on cold startup. but every now and then when idling (say at a stoplight) the engine gets noticeably rougher, not terrible. No smoke. Goes away after 5-10 seconds.
When I remove the oil cap, there is a "puffing" blow by, not constant, and its not enough to blow the cap off if I set it on backwards. Just puffing.
This may be related, but I pulled the starter wire off the drivers side and touched it to the battery to hear how it cranks, and there is a noticeable blip in the cranking, its not 100% smooth.
Don't think I am losing any coolant. Runs great, getting 15MPG. No CEL. I went and had a relative comp. check done, cylinder 7 is the problem. We both are leaning toward there being a valve problem So I pulled the valve cover, now I have a few questions.
1. When I crank the engine over without starting, I can hear a "pfft....pfft....pfft" chug of air every revolution. I pulled the cover to see if I had a obvious rocker problem, but can't see anything because the oil rail is in the way. I'm guessing this air puff is sign of a valve problem?
2. When the truck is running, there is a small, steady stream of oil running down the rail and dripping onto the valve cover mating surface of the head, I think it was at every injector, definitely 2 of them. Was getting dark, so hard to see. Is this normal, or do I have a leak? Truck has updated dummy plugs.
My next step is probably going to be pull the rail, see if there is a obvious problem, then pull the head. And tips for me? Planning on having the HVAC evacuated then pulling the airbox.
I have an 05 f250 6.0. We have started to reach 38 at night here in northern IL already. The trucks been having a rough time starting and it's not even that cold yet. Any recommendations on the truck that I can do to have easier starts. Sometimes cycling the glow plugs 4 5 6 7 times isn't enough to get her going. I plug it in most of the time on bitter days in the winter but sometimes I leave it parked where I cannot plug it in. The batteries seem just fine. I think one is a little weaker so I will get new batts.
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