Volvo :: White Stuff In Oil - Misfire Code
Dec 29, 2012
250k+ miles,had a slow leak for awhile plus misfire code...lately there's been white stuff on the dipstick,changed the oil and it's still there. Guy at shop said it's probably gonna blow.
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2006 6.0l
Just noticed yesterday during an oil change that I had white stuff around the coolant cap on the overflow bottle and that no coolant was visible. I went and got some antifreeze premix to top it off and it only took around 1 quart. Today after driving it approx 30 miles, the coolant was again missing.
When I changed the oil the other that same day there was no coolant in it, and I don't have any puddles on the ground. Whats going on?
EGR is deleted with a sinister kit, temps are fine, today it was 94 degrees and the truck was running at 194 oil 192 Coolant when getting off the highway after 15 minutes doing ~75. I've got a little bit of stiction going on but besides that nothing seems wrong.
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I have a 93 Volvo 850 N/A, there is white smoke coming out of the dipstick tube, not alot but enough, also there's like a white/ yellow foam on the dipstick tube, but the coolant has not changed, so im assuming its not a headgasket. I have cleaned out most of the vacuum lines and flame trap but cant find the pvc valve.
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My truck is having some major problems right now! I'll give a overview of the problems, then below that try to explain each of them as best I can...
Overview:
Coolant is disappearing rapidly (1-2 days)
Overheating (when the coolant is gone)
Billows of white smoke coming from exhaust
Check engine light
Heater not always working
Loss of power
Low RPMs at idle (read below)
Individual breakdown of problems
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My 2003 F150, 5.4L has been having some rough idle/misfires issues both at idle and under load.
I have fixed one big vacuum leak, replaced the PCV valve, new sparkplugs, seafoam and heet in the gas, replaced fuel filter, tested the fuel injector resistance. Coolant levels have not changed. The truck burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The white exhaust is heavier than condensation, but it comes and goes. The rough idling comes and goes as well, and it usually happens under load and the CEL flashes.
The codes I get are random cylinders, po303, po308, po171, po174 were the most recent but there have been other cylinders as well. I clear the codes after each attempt to fix it and they come back different.
I notice that there is a small exhaust leak that drips water just behind the engine, and when I shut down the truck a lot of water will pour out of an area just behind the cab on the passenger side as well as out of the bottom of the muffler (small hole, looks drilled).
Usually the rough idle occurs after filling up the tank, but from different stations so I do not think it would be watery gas. I use Heet every fill up as well. Also, there is a sulfur smell after the rough idling occurs (catalytic converter?).
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My 740 (1990, B230E, non-turbo) has been running rough at low rpm. Once above 1800 rpm or so it's fine. I've changed the Distributor cap and rotor arm (they were both shot), but the problem persists. I'm thinking injector relay or ignition stage amplifier next, but I don't want to just through parts at it.
The plugs were changed 3 months/1,500 miles ago. The misfire is intermittent.
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I’ve been having an engine misfire issue for a number of months. The dealership first changed the plugs, ignition cable kit and wiring, and that fixed it for a while. Then it came back and dealership couldn’t figure it out. They tested the O2 sensor and drove it around for a week to no avail. So I kept driving and have noticed a few trends. First the car drives better in overdrive, or when the rpms are 3,000 or above. Second when the car stalls, if I am trying to restart it immediately I have to give it some gas. Third it doesn’t mind idling in park. And fourth I’ve been having a battery drain. To solve the battery drain I’ve been charging the battery every night, and that definitely works, but I only get about 20 miles before the misfire comes back, and sometimes the misfire is just there immediately regardless. So I just replaced my alternator, and that didn’t solve the issue either. So what else could be the issue? I'm kinda at a loss and driving the car on the highway when the misfire starts is not exactly safe.
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1986 volvo turbo. I am at my wits end with my car. I know very little about car repair and maintenance and that alone makes me enraged.
So my car is very old and has not been taken care of before I owned it. It did misfire at idle speed before but very rarely, now it seems that ever since I put more oil in the misfires happen way more frequently.
I put in a synthetic 10w 30 oil and the engine is way more quiet now and the gas mileage is slightly better...but ever since I put it in the misfires are frequent. I do not know if it is a vacuum leak or a spark plug problem, or if it has something to do with the oil
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I turned on my car and for some reason the radio unit isn't displaying anything. I can see the backlight come on, but there's no text. I can still switch between BT, CD, XM, radio, etc. but nothing is displayed. This is not a nav or touchscreen unit, just the one that comes on the base model.
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Our 2008 Acura MDX started blowing black stuff through a/c system (driver and passenger sides). When I picked up a piece of it and crushed it in my hand, it would disintegrate into almost a powder-like substance.
We took it to the Acura Dealer and according to them interior filter and a/c vent look fine and they would have to take the whole dashboard apart to see if there is a problem. What it could be? It's not affecting the performance of the car and the AC seems to function just fine. This black net-like particles started last summer.
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For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get into the space between the right side of the driver's seat and the center console. I have lost medication, coins, and a french fry . I've tried all sorts of power adjustments but I can never make any clearance. Once something falls down there, if I stick my hand to grab it, it falls into no man's land.
06 V10
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2004 6.0 Excursion.. I had an issue with lots of white smoke. A p0401 code, then the smoke stopped. I removed the egr and cleaned it. All seamed good until two weeks later. Now I have smoke again. Its seems to be only after it is warm. Do I need a NEW egr valve?
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I have the regular Prius 2012, The brake pedal is attached to a rod that goes into a flex boot and then into the ABS module in the Engine compartment. The Boot is leaking sticky greasy/oily fluid. It not a constant leak. Its like it leaked on a Hot day and then stopped leaking.
Its not the one from my car, but its what I'm calling the ABS Mod Is this not just the lubricant for the Pedal or is this real brake fluid from the ABS module leaking into the Car? took it to Toyota and they said they had never seen this before and they are recommending to replace the entire ABS Module and Brake Fluid at a cost of $3346 + Tax. (roughly $2700 in parts)
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my third brake light, hatch wiper and fluid stuff all don't work. can't really tell if defrost works either but considering the amount of damage they probably don't. there was a hole in one of the grommets leading into the hatch on my gti and they all got wet and damaged. It looks like I barely even have enough room to cut out the damage and be able to replace it with new wiring. is there any kind of product where I could just replace an entire section or no
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I am writing about a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban and for the last few months, have noticed that the car is losing oil. I have to put in a quart of oil about every 3 weeks. I have brought it in to the mechanics and asked them to look for a leak and they can't find anything. They have changed the oil, replaced the evap hose, but the car is still losing oil. Just did a lot of driving this last weekend and the oil went all the way down, to the point of when I started it this morning, I got a huge amount of blue smoke out the back. When I took off the cap to add oil, I noticed this mustard yellow, foamy stuff on the lid. Never saw that before.
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2011 Scab truck when driving over rough stuff drivers side door sounds like its cracked open when its not...never liked clamshell doors wished they would have went with mini doors like Dodge....
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My girlfriend got the check engine light on her Volvo S60 yesterday. I advised her to get the codes read at AutoZone and then take it to a trusted mechanic.
She got the code read this morning and it was P0027. I advised her to check the oil, which she did, and it was full. she just moved to the area so she didn't have a trusted mechanic, and felt comfortable taking it to the dealership, which is where the car is now.
I am not familiar with Volvos, and just wanted to check to see what it could be, to make sure that she is getting the correct repair from the dealership. The dealership has not yet provided a diagnosis, she just dropped it off there this morning.
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I had to change the battery in 1994 Volvo 850, and now the radio won't play because it needs the "code" to reset it. However, the owner's manuals are long-gne, and I don't know what the code is. how to re-set the radio without the code?
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I have a 2006 F350. It started running rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I did an injector buzz test and found no codes. Cylinder contribution check showed cylinder one was not functioning. I replaced number one injector, cleaned injector cup installed new injector and copper washer. Engine runs the same. If it was a wiring harness issue should that have shown up in the buzz test?
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I can't find a listing for a 511 diagnostic code for my 1994 960.
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I have a 92 Volvo 240 (250k) with EGR (California car). I live in Alabama, no EGR needed here. There is check engine code that points to the EGR. It has been exhibiting all the symptoms of a defective EGR for quite a spell, check engine light just showing up recently.
Should I clean it, replace it ...or just take it off entirely. If I remove it, what needs to be done with that removal (such as ECU adjustment, replacement)?
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