Volvo :: Whistle Sound Originating On Left Portion Of Engine When Throttle Off
Oct 6, 2013
It's a 96 850 Naturally Aspirated. There is a whistle sound (usually about one second in duration) when I let off the throttle.
Based on what I've been able to find out so far it is most likely at Vacuum line or a gasket somewhere in the intake line. The more common source of this is the Throttle body gasket but that doesn't seem to be the case.
I think the sound is originating on the left portion of the engine, somewhere between the oil cap and the timing cover.
Any good ways to test the vacuum lines or gaskets?
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So i have been hearing a whistle under acceleration for some time. Normally comes at 1/2 to full throttle. I also have had check engine light for a bad o2 sensor for about the same amount of time(2months). Fast forward to last week. finally replaced sensor. Check engine is gone. Open her up a little on and on ramp, Whistle is still there and the CEL comes back. Have it scanned, and it come back load calculation cross check 17551. I need an sticker so i rest the ecu (no light) and drove it like a grandma 50miles to get the sticker. No CEL. Get sticker. Just to make sure i wasn't crazy i gave her some gas on the way out of the inspection lot, and there is the CEL.
In conclusion, Between the whistle, CEL, and the fact that i drove it 50 miles with out the CEL coming back under very light throttle, and i just replaced the MAF with a new Bosch 2 months ago, i am pretty sure it is some kind of vac leak.
I have a new TB gasket in the mail, but my question is, Is there other places where such a vac leak is common in these cars? Other info on car.
UM tune
evoms intake
HPA downpipes (whistle started after these where installed)
Flapper
no res
74k on the clock
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So I've been getting on increasingly louder noise that's originating in the left front wheel. It sounds like you're driving over road patches (rough spots). It does it worse when shifting the weight to that wheel by taking a right curve. I rotated wheel front to back no change. Brakes look ok. I was thinking wheel bearing but I have no play when I check it. Also it sounds like a general bearing rotation whine that matches road speed.
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My 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD has an engine whistle at idle, but it stops momentarily when I turn the stearing wheel left or right, then comes back. Whats up?
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Our Elantra is 2003 2.0L GLS which has now done 117000 km.
We are very pleased with it. However, the "shock wave" pushed ahead by an oncoming truck can cause a sudden wind whistle - more like a loud shreak that appears to come from the left front of the car.
It can be quite un-nerving when it occurs. It can also be triggered by strong head or cross winds.
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I have a whistle sound mostly upon decel when the engine was cold. I have the APR down pipe installed. Today it's doing it all the time even when warm. I took the car to the dealer and they said it was prolly an exhaust leak. I took the car to my friends shop and we put the car up on the lift and listened from underneath. It sounded like the turbo was echoing in the down pipe. Sometimes when it's cold it can be very loud. So my question is if this is normal with the APR down pipe or with this turbo or is this a sign that I have a turbo failure coming?
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My brother and I noticed my engine making this noise today, I was under the hood and he was giving the engine gas with the car in neutral.
video of sound: [URL] .....
Sounds like air pressure being released, sort of a quick whistle or squeal just as he pushes the gas pedal, coming from under the hood somewhere.
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2002 Volvo S40. My son bought his first car. It was inspected a week before he bought it, and has about 50,000 miles. It seemed to drive fine when he purchased it, but after a few days, he heard a squeaking/ chirping sound (that seemed to be coming from the left front side of the car) when he accelerated. The sound stops when he brakes hard. He took the car to a mechanic who told him that he needed new brake pads (front and rear).
He replaced the front pads, but the sound persisted. He went to another mechanic who told him that the pads were not put on properly and smoothed the rotor. The sound decreased for a short time and then returned. The mechanic says that the rotor looks fine, but is now recommending that he replace it since adjusting the brake pad and smoothing the rotor is not working.
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Earlier today on a easy drive (not pushing it) I noticed a slight "whistle-sound" that I haven't noticed before. About then it became VERY sluggish and the Engine Management Light started to flash.
As soon as I could I pulled over and connected my AL619 and it says "to low turbo/supercharger flow".
I didn't notice any smoke or smell, just a serious lack of power (i was doing 30km/h at the top of the hill).
Just tried to locate the leak, but I cant feel it or see it. I guess one would need one of those "smoke generators" to see where the pressure goes out.
So, do I have a broken turbo, or just a blown turbo pipe/tube?
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I got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
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I have this 03 3.0 flex fuel that as of lately (2 months) has developed a whistle when throttle is pressed half way or more.... not sure what or where its coming from..
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I have a 2000 V70/XC volvo with 95K miles. I began hearing a strange hollow noise, like a whistle blowing. I took it to the dealership where I bought the car and they said it was the fuel pump. I asked them if it was bad and needed to be replaced and the said they weren't sure about having it replaced right away. They said sometimes it will make that noise and the fuel pump could last for months and sometimes for years. They even suggested to just drive it until it fails then replace it. some say it could never go out. But it bothers me because it is the car that my wife drives daily taking kids around and running errands and so forth. I am always worried that she could get stuck somewhere anytime. So I am not sure what to do.
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I noticed a slight whistle last year coming from my front left hub. I pulled the hub and greased the gears as best I could and it sort of went away. Now this year it is a little louder. It only happens when the hub is locked. Is starts around 20mph and goes away at 40. Is the bearing in the hub shot or is this normal. 4x4 works fine and there is no visible excess wear on the gears. The truck has 93k.
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Ok, driving home tonight from boarding (semi hard driving) car started running and shifting weird, loss of power, weird shifts in drive. At first red light I could hear a sucking sound when the throttle was pressed,or downshift tranny in manual mode. If you put the car in neutral going down the road and stab the pedal about the third time throttle will maintain 3g rpm. Babied it home, popped the hood blipped the throttle and there's def. a huge sucking sound coming from engine bay. I lightly sprayed intake/vacuum hoses/airbox etc with starting fluid and no change in idle. cant see anything loose. WTH?
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my wagon runs fine, but when i start the engine it makes a weird sound (the same sound you might here when a UFO zips by in movies)... also, the check engine light comes on and stays on throughout the duration of my trip... what could be wrong?...
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I have a 2007 XC90 3.2 RWD with around 112,800 miles.
On acceleration, there is a rattle (not a valve knocking) that gets quieter once a steady cruise is achieved. At idle in gear, a very quiet rattle can be heard. When transmission is slipped into neutral, the rattle goes away. The engine shifts normally, accelerates normally and gas mileage is steady at around 20.5 mpg (mixed city and highway). I am using 93 octane gas. This week the check engine light came on.
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I've noticed that I don't get a consistent engine roar from my sound generator when I throttle hardly. I get more of a roar when the engine is cold and I floor it. Any other time I accelerate hard it doesn't sound like my sound generator is working.
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I have a 1995 volvo 850 t5. Basically, the engine is making a clicking sound. Immediately on start up, which continues when i drive. In saying that, I've been only doing 5 minute drives so perhaps its not running long enough to go away.
So today, i started it. Car starts ticking. The ticking is like 3 or 4 seconds apart between clicks, and the idle seems to change slightly each time it clicks.
I checked the oil and it was a little low. So i put 2 litres in, and then i ran the car (idling) to see if it would go away. Just for a few minutes. It did seem to go away, but then i gave it a little rev and it came back.
So in summary, clicks on start, idle and while driving. Idle changes slightly between clicks. And there is a few seconds between clicks.
Just checked it again. If i leave it idling the click stops but as soon as there are more revs, it comes back. And the noise is almost like the click of a switch (like when your kettle finishes boiling and the switch flicks off. Not the best comparison but similar).
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My car has recently developed a chirping noise that seem to originate in the passenger side of the engine bay. It is very audible when the car is engaged in drive and at low rpms. At higher rpms it seems to go away. I have a 2002 1.8t with 90k, tip, tb job was done at 75k, right after I got the car couple of years ago.
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I own a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD. I have noticed that usually when I am driving and it starts to rain heavily, there is a loud siren sound coming from the engine area. This sound stays till it doesn't stop to rain. Also, if I don't step on the accelerator, the sound goes away. I have taken it to the dealership a couple of times but haven't been able to replicate the sound.
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My car came with the Evoms CAI stage 1 with the sock. When its drawing in air I'm getting this annoying whistle sound. Ive had other intakes on my other R and this is just plain annoying.
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