I have a 95 940 turbo that shakes really bad when braking. things I have done so far are.
1. Replaced all four rotors.
2. Replaced all four callipers.
3. Replaced sway bar control arms.
The shaking is so bad that the gear shift moves back and forth when braking.
So. My car shakes badly when I get above 35 mph and up. It shakes under acceleration and braking above these speeds. Under these speeds its fine. When I am above 35 if I am just coasting its fine it doesn't shake. The shaking feels like I am off the side of the road and driving over rumble strips. What could be the cause of this?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 vw Jetta with a manual transmission (just over 155,000 miles). My first set of front brakes lasted to about 135,000. After they were replaced a shimmy started to appear when braking a few thousand miles in. At about 8,000 miles the shimmy became so bad that I brought the car back to the dealer. They said the rotors were warped. The pads and rotors were replaced again and in about 5,000 miles same thing. The pads and rotors were replaced again at no charge and it is now about 5,000 miles later and the same thing is happening again.
View 2 Replies2001 Hyundai Sante Fe. When braking, I get a noise and the whole vehicle shakes. Exactly as if I were driving in snow and just slammed the brakes. The feeling & noise feels and sounds the exact same as if I were sliding...
I've replaced the master cyl originally just because today is the first day the issue lasted long enough for me to fully hear//feel the whole issue. It's normally brief.
First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
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I took the car in for a steering vibration/jiggle problem (and a 60K mi service), and the dealer replaced the axles/driveshafts under the powertrain warranty.
It seemed fine when I drove back home, but recently I've been noticing the steering shake again. If I remove my hands from the wheel, it jiggles and pulses to the left and right by itself. Whenever I turn the wheel off center left and right, (while moving; mini-slaloming, I suppose) the wheel resistance pulses back and forth... it isn't creamy smooth. And finally on the freeway, the front end seems to hop... it's rather disconcerting.
Can any of this be cured by the powertrain warranty... or am I looking at some suspension/steering work?
Ok so here's the thing. I put an intake on the car. But the engine shakes badly and the RPM keeps bouncing. There is no air leak. Is there any vag-com programming that needs to be done for the intake to work since it is going to be different than the stock one? t is a 2.0t engine.
View 11 RepliesI have a '99 Silverado 1500 with a 4.3L V-6 amd 188,000. It picked up a problem recently that's been stumping me. Occassionally, and for no reason I can sort out, it starts to shimmy badly. This behavior has come about at several speeds. Sometimes just cruising down the road at 35-45 it starts to shimmy and wobble and the steering wheel shakes as if a wheel is horribly out of balance. Other times this occurs at highway speeds - it's noticeable and alarming. The problem can last a long while; othertimes the symptoms disappear in a few seconds. The first time it happened I thought I had a flat or was about to lose a wheel - this is not a subtle problem.
I've checked several things and came up empty. No delamination in the tires and nothing out of round, but just to be sure I had the wheels balanced and rotated - the balance was spot on when checked. Alignment is good. Did those things, but the symptoms continued. The vehicle is high mileage so I put in on the lift and checked the front-end. The steering rack has a very slight amount of play and the hub bearings have a very small amount of play too - I'll get after those, but they're not causing this intermittent problem. Everything else is tight. Shocks are fine, brakes are fine, I checked the rear-end as well - everything is straight and true. Air pressure is set correctly. I checked the driveshaft for runout and play - that's not the problem. The truck has never been in an accident and nothing seems misaligned.
The truck drives like a new truck most of the time, then suddenly, on a smooth road, it starts wobbling around. I'm starting to believe the problem might lie under the hood. I had a problem some time back with misfiring and the truck bucking - this turned out to be a worn distributor. A new distributor, rotor and wiring solved that problem. But these symptoms are not similar - this is not a bucking problem; the entire vehicle starts to shimmy and wobble with the steering wheel vibrating back and forth. It's hard to tell, but I cannot detect any misfiring or rough running in the engine when these symptoms appear and I have no 'check engine' warnings.
Are there any engine/transmission/drivetrain related issues that could cause intermittent symptoms that feel like an out of balance condition? A few other facts:- I have noticed the truck is a little down on power lately- The fuel economy has dropped off - I used to do around 20, now I'm down to 16mph highway- (Very) slightly rough idle
I have a 1996 GMC Sonoma extended cab, 2.2l engine (not vortec) purchased in the United States. I’m having trouble setting the timing correctly.
I recently replaced the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and chain, and after several attempts to set the timing, the engine still shakes badly and struggles to run smoothly, especially at idle. (It did not do this before the repair.) My code reader picks up the following codes: P0106, P0108. It seems to me that the timing is off despite my best efforts.
I’m going to try and attach a picture of the timing chain and sprockets as they’re currently set because the camshaft timing mark is strange on this vehicle and I’m not sure if it’s lined up correctly. Does it looks right? (Red mark on cam sprocket made by me; timing mark is supposedly the circular hole above that tooth.)
I did several other repairs at the same time that I did the timing. I have gone back over as much of these as possible and I don’t think I did anything wrong. As cars go I’m strictly an amateur but I work as a small engine mechanic so I have some experience with the way things feel when they’re done wrong. Nevertheless, if the timing is right, maybe I botched one of these?
The simultaneous repairs:
Removed head
Replaced hydraulic lifters
Cleaned carbon off valves
Checked pushrod straightness
Changed gaskets (several)
Replaced oil pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, & thermostat
Replaced coolant hoses
I did all this because I hit the 150,000-mile mark and I want to keep it running for another 150,000.
Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 RepliesTruck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either. Would a right rear cause this?
View 14 RepliesThe front end of my car shakes (sometimes, more often than not, but not always) while braking. It doesn't matter if I am braking hard or regular. I do not feel it while accelerating or cruising.
So, my thinking is rotors and pads wearing unevenly, warped, or something along these lines. I plan to pull the rotors off and look at them this evening.
I am just looking at if there are any other opinions or options that I should be checking into to cause this type of thing to happen.
The whole front suspension was replaced a couple months ago, so all should be well there but will look it over while I have the wheels off.
I have a 2002 volvo v70 xc awd turbo and whenever I accelerate it vibrates noticeably Or if i drive at highway speeds it also vibrates but is much worse. Im thinking its either a CV joint or possibly an axle bearing. What should i look for?
View 2 RepliesMy '07 shakes when braking below 7 mph. Coming to a complete stop is never perfectly smooth unless medium to hard braking is required. My thought was that the MG2 is in creep mode even while my foot is lightly on the brake pedal, causing the jerking, but creep works properly while not braking.
The shaking is very steady, at about 6 Hz, the same frequency as the "popping" noise one hears when stopped at the light with the foot lightly on the brake; just enough to keep the car from creeping, but not mashed far enough to turn off the creep current from the battery. I take it there's two sensors on the pedal as well as a potentiometer. Could the problem be mitigated if the creep current were cut off at the presence of a foot rather than having to press harder? There is no shaking on a harder stop, only the slow ones.
Another thought I had was that the pressure pump itself is supplying the brake pressure to the friction pads, causing the pulsing. In a previous thread, we discussed why my pump was coming on so often. Perhaps a leak in the canister causing the pressure not to be buffered, and the pump itself providing the pressure.
4150 Holley 532BBF float adj issue . I think i have it close, but its so hard to tell because the engine shakes the vehicle so much its hard to set the floats so that it just trickles out of the float holes. (532 kasse P51 heads, big roller cam) Is there an easier way to do it say on the bench?
View 1 RepliesMy '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5. Cost is 3200-3500 for the repair.
and if the price is accurate. Given the age and mileage on the car, I am reluctant to invest 3-4k.
What is the best way to go about tackling these problems, need tires but don't want to smoke them with present problems.
View 10 RepliesI just recently got a 2004 r32 and it came with almost brand new rotors/pads, at most 500 miles on them. I just realized the other day that when driving freeway speeds, about 70-80 and braking down to 40-50 the entire cabin shakes.
View 24 RepliesI have a 1997 F-150 4.6 Liter 2WD ATIt rides and brakes smoothly when not running the A/C. When I switch on the A/C it still rides and runs smoothly and still brakes smoothly at first. After a few minutes, when I brake, the front end shakes slightly. While not braking it's still fine.The problem doesn't go away immediately when I switch of the A/C, but does eventually. However, on rare occasion the front end will start shaking like I have a square tire, even when not braking. This never occurs when I'm not running the A/C. Pads and rotors seem fine, tires are good, on visual inspection. A/C blows cold and the clutch seems to engage/disengage properly.
View 3 RepliesMy 06 sonata's steering wheel recently started shaking when I am braking from speeds of 80+ also a little when going down really steep hills. This happened once before when I got new front tires because the tire shop didn't balance the tires correctly. I know it could also mean warped rotors but in my experience rotors only become warped when you drive them with really low pads. Btw the car has 46k miles on it, and it is a 3.3 liter v6 gls.
View 9 RepliesMy T&C strikes again... Now it shakes when braking at highway speeds (thinking rotors are warped and need changed), but today the brake light, traction control, and ABS lights all come on and stay on when I drive...
View 4 Replies