Volvo - V70 :: 2000 - Gear Shift Box Cracked?
Jan 31, 2015
I got into my 2000 V70 Turbo and noticed that someone had cracked the gear shift box. I didn't know what to think so I checked to see if they messed with the gear shift (automatic transmission) and thus were trying to steal the car by moving the gear shift into neutral and pushing my baby away. Nope. Gear shift looked ok. I put my key in and the car was totally dead. I popped the hood, looked about, then looked at my main fuse box. Someone pulled my air pump relay fuse. Oh boy! I went back to the gear shift to see if they messed with my emergency brake. I can't tell. So, I called the police and filed a police report. Here's my question: By pulling the Air pump relay--is someone trying to kill my ABS brakes and then when I'm cruising down the highway I have no ABS and my emergency brake is gone? Very scary thought here. Is my thinking clear, or is there another reason to remove the air pump relay and break into my gear shift box?
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I have an automatic 1992 940 GL and it has been almost a year since the head gasket blew in the car. The gaskets and everything have been replaced as well as the fuel filter, transmission pulley, and timing belt. The car seems to run fine except for a small problem with the gears. When driving it's like it doesn't want to shift into the next gear unless you let off the gas a little bit which then it shifts over fine and it does this for all for gears. It has also recently started back to stalling out at a stop light or stop sign but very rarely.
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My beautiful 1990 Volvo 240 will not shift into 4th gear! It is an automatic. The OD light will go on and off and I can hear it click when I turn it on. I just noticed that when getting on the highway it seemed as if the RPM was a little too high so I started paying more attention to which gear it was in and noticed today that it stays in 3rd gear.
I have already replaced the fuse #11. With the OD seemingly working fine, should I mess with the relay?
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I just picked up this old 240 wagon with 230k miles on it for next to nothing due to a transmission issue. It stays stuck in 1st gear for about the first 15 minutes of drive time and then starts shifting perfectly after that. I took it to a transmission specialist and he thought the valve body may be sticking. I also had an experienced volvo tech adjust the kick down cable but so far its still having the same issue.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL a/t 200000 miles does not shift into overdrive (4th gear ). Is there a relay between the switch and the solenoid?. Is it okay to drive over 40mph.
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Volvo Automatic 1992 240 - So, just started to back out of the garage and, all of a sudden, my gear shift got stuck in neutral and then started shifting without engaging the transmission at all. Pushed it back into the space and, taking a look underneath, I realize the control rod's completely detached from the lever in the transmission.
I can re-attach it, but it just comes loose again when I shift. It seems like something should be in there to hold the control rod in place with the transmission lever, but I don't know what because I can't seem to find any documentation on what everything should look like down there.
Attaching a couple shots, one with a circle around the area that's coming un-attached since the angle's a bit off.
Attached File(s)
IMG_8972.jpg ( 1.09MB )
IMG_8978.jpg ( 938.64K )
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I just got my car back from an accident and it immediately started leaking oil. They determined it was a cracked oil pan. They can either
1) weld it
2) replace it with a used one
3) replace it with a new one
I understand because it's foreign that it will be expensive but never saw this coming. I'm not quite sure what the best choice is for me to do. I would like to save money but don't want future problems with my volvo c70 2001.
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My fuel filter housing has cracked and i need to replace it. I have been told by volvo that i need to have it programed is this true or not ???
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2000 Celica GTS e shift will not hold gear it just shifts like its in drive....
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GS Hatchback, the car has about 41,6xx miles on it. When i drive it between 2nd and 3rd gear it shift violently, its almost like it shifts due to pressure, it also happens when it downshift too. Also the reverse went out, i can hear the pump running and it goes into reverse but when i press on the gas it acts like it in neutral. This is a daily driver for me.
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I have a 2000 Accent that wont shift past third gear until the car is warm. The car has 140k miles. When I turn on the car and pull onto the high way it sticks in 3rd. I then have to slow down and drive through a small town. When I get on the other side of the small town and get back up to speed it will shift. Over drive is on.
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Why my car is grinding gear when I shift from 1st to 2nd, & yes the clutch is fully depleted and still grinds when I shift.
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My buddy has a 2000 1.8t 5 speed wagon, it got towed the other day and now it is having issues shifting. I doubt that it is related to the towing. If you start the car in neutral, you cant get it to shift into any gear with the clutch pressed. Even if you try to shift with the clutch not pressed, it physically wont go into gear, it wont even grind. it just wont go.
However, it goes into gear with the car off. Your an start the car in gear with the clutch pressed, and can drive as normal....until you need to shift. at which point, it does as described above. He had a shop tell him that the clutch is bad, but it does not slip. I was thinking perhaps the shift linkage, but I don't know a whole lot about these transmissions, I am only well acquainted with mk2/mk3 style 020's.
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I have a 2000 Excursion w/ V10 and I have an issue with the transmission form time to time. some times it does not want to shift out of first. if I pull over and turn it off for a few minutes it will be fine for a while and it doesn't do this all the time. A few nights ago it did this so I pulled over and turned it off and it still did it but then it started shifting on its own just fine till we got on the high way which is started shifting in and out of over drive going around 60-65 MPH. didn't want to go too fast not knowing what it could or would do. it did this for a few miles then it started working fine. next day it did the same thing not wanting to shift out of first then started working fine. drove it around last night and it all worked perfectly. The CEL is on but I get a no communication text from the scanner so that is another thing I need to look in to. I'm guessing it is an electrical issue being when it works it shifts fine and it does not slip at all.
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My 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
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My 2003 made a sharp mechanical noise one day, next thing I knew it lost the ability to shift out of 2nd gear....Now, it can still shift into 2nd gear when cold, but only after holding rpm for a bit and then suddenly jerking into 2nd gear. Once it's warmed up for a few minutes though, after dropping out of 2nd gear, that's it! Then it's stuck in 1st gear the rest of the time. Reverse doesn't work anymore at any time, and it gave me code P0732 to P0734 which should be gears 2 - 4. Is it possible that not being to get out of 1st means 2nd gear is broken, but the other 2 are okay and it just can't get shift past 2nd? Or might all 3 have problems after all?
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I just got a 2000 accent. The problems is that sometimes when I shift into 2nd and 3rd is notches sometimes. But it does not do it when i shift down. Also if I shift fast it will occur less often as when I shift low. When my friend drove the car it didnt do it for him. So maybe it is how i drive or something. I make sure the clutch is down all the way.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6 with 187000 km on it. I started noticing over the last month that when I shift into second gear the car seems to stop powering the wheels temporarily. Once the RPM's pick up (around 2200) the problem goes away. This seems to only happen when I originally shift into second and the RPM's are lower. If I accelerate slowly then the lag usually won't happen, but if I push down more on the gas then you can really notice the lag.
The spark plugs only have 15000 km on them, air filter is new, just replaced the fuel filter, oil was just changed (synthetic) as well as the filter, and I just recently cleaned out the throttle body. I have also seemed to notice a loss of overall power since at highway speeds since this problem started. The engine doesn't lag when I'm in 4th or 5th gear on the highway, but it seems to have less power when I'm accelerating on the highway.
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While driving at highway speeds the "n" light on the gear shift starts flashing. This indicates that the automatic transmission is overheating, and that I should pull over to let it cool per the owners manual and a sticker on the drivers door. Which I do - I let it sit for about 5 mins and its ready to go again. However, this is inconvenient and has happened on numerous occasions. I have search all over the internet for a solution, and the only thing that seems to be the solution is to get a bigger pan?
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I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
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I have been having a problem with my brake light warning on my dashboard as my car accelerates and shifts gears. Coincidently the problem began after carting around a co-worker that weighed some 250 pounds in my 2000 Honda Civic. I'm wondering if I have an alignment problem or something more serious.
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