I notice my instantaneous gas millage goes up if I coast in neutral in my new Volvo V50; say when cruising up to stop lights or coming down a hill. I appear to be saving gas, but am I damaging my automatic transmission?
View 8 RepliesThe car is 1985 Chevrolet Cavalier with automatic transmission.I had the engine stall several times and I coasted sometimes for a quarter of a mile with the transmission in gear. Can this cause damage to transmission?Later on I wised up and moved the shifter to neutral when the engine stalled.When I coasted in gear, I was getting some vibration that smoothed out when I put it in neutral.
View 19 RepliesSo yesterday after running an errand I got home, after having dinner I was about to head out and, SURPRISE! The car wouldn't start... The engine doesn't turn, no lights on the gauges when inserting the key, no clicks.... the battery seems fine, as the radio works, the anti-theft/alarm works well, the 2nd key behaves the same way.
This morning, I called VW road side, the tow truck they sent couldn't take the car because it is in a tight spot and we can shift the car to neutral. We tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery without success... What to do??
1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine.
View 16 RepliesI have a relative that does this allot i didn't think was a good idea he said it don't hurt anything, and get better millage. Can this hurt anything, or actually improve mileage other than maybe coasting with it in gear? 2014 ram ....
View 17 Replies1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine. I have never seen this!
View 11 Repliesis it good practice to shift to neutral, while driving downhill on automatic transmission? the owner manual does not recommend, would like to know why.it makes sense to save gas, while doing this. (i used to do it while driving manual)
View 7 RepliesI have a 1998 GMC Jimmy and until now we had little to no heat. In the morning when we first leave the house in the cold as we are speeding up we slip into neutral and we either have to pull over or shift the shifter into neutral and back to get it going again. We only notice this happening when it is very cold. How do we fix this before it becomes a bigger problem?
View 3 RepliesI have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
View 1 RepliesVolvo Automatic 1992 240 - So, just started to back out of the garage and, all of a sudden, my gear shift got stuck in neutral and then started shifting without engaging the transmission at all. Pushed it back into the space and, taking a look underneath, I realize the control rod's completely detached from the lever in the transmission.
I can re-attach it, but it just comes loose again when I shift. It seems like something should be in there to hold the control rod in place with the transmission lever, but I don't know what because I can't seem to find any documentation on what everything should look like down there.
Attaching a couple shots, one with a circle around the area that's coming un-attached since the angle's a bit off.
Attached File(s)
IMG_8972.jpg ( 1.09MB )
IMG_8978.jpg ( 938.64K )
Does coasting in neutral (to save fuel) cause any damage or wear when shifting the gear lever into Drive while moving?
View 6 RepliesI'm wondering if it is OK to shift into neutral while coasting (engine on). I've read varying arguments back and forth on whether or not it hurts it. I've done for a while in my 99 suburban and the transmission still shifts just fine. I've tried it once in the elantra just to see how it affects my fuel economy, and it boosts it about 100mpg (coming off a freeway ramp). Braking and steering controls don't seem to be affected by the lower vacuum.
I can see why its not advised while the engine is off (i.e., towing), but if the engine is on, torque converter turning, transmission fluid pumping, I can't see where it would hurt.
This problem has plagued my '85 Tbird Turbo Coupe for about a month. When I put my car in neutral while moving, the RPMs fall significantly below idle and then the engine usually catches itself and after about 5-10 seconds idles normally. If I do this at high speed (say 40 mph +), the RPMs fall to the point where the engine stalls and dies. If I do it at 25-40 mph, it will go down about 200-500 RPMs and then catch itself. If I do it at 15-20 mph, it will be just barely noticeable, and anything slower than that I can't notice it. It will also do this to some extent when I'm stopped if I rev the engine up really high and let it off, but it is far less noticeable. This car has had extensive work done to it in the past 6 months.
Most recently, I had the fuel injectors replaced, throttle body cleaned, IAC valve cleaned, and the vehicle searched for vacuum leaks. (most of that in search of the solution to this problem as well as to improve the general performance of the vehicle. A week before that, I also had a new fuel tank, fuel pump, and fuel filter installed. I've got a very small leak on the back of my muffler, no cat, and no other exhaust leaks I can find. I am getting a lot of black carbon out of the exhaust, but I have been running some fuel system cleaner through it. Also, the car sat for like 8 years before I got it, and the original cat became clogged and really gunked stuff up. I had all of the upper engine gaskets replaced, as much as we could get to cleaned internally, and the cat cut off at that point. Timing is very close to 10btdc. Could be 9.5, but just about right there. I double checked, no vacuum leaks that I could find with a can of carb cleaner. I tried checking for codes, but it's not even throwing me a confirmation code or anything, which is odd. But, my connector was pretty gummed up (I did clean it as good as I could) and just about anything wiring is suspect. I used two engine code readers that had previously been used on the car. Other than this, the car has plenty of power and runs fine down the road.
Here's the master list of what I've replaced in the past 6mo:
FUEL SYSTEM Fuel Pump (twice) Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Tank Fuel Injectors
ASSORTED FILTERS Fuel Filter (twice) Air Filter Oil Filter (several times) Oil Filler Cap PCV Valve
HOSES/COOLANT SYSTEM Nearly every Vacuum Hose Every Coolant Hose Heater Core (twice)
SENSORS AND COMPUTER STUFF Engine Control Module (ECM) Vane Air Meter (VAM) Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) Oxygen Sensor
STARTING SYSTEM/ELECTRIC/Misc. Spark Plugs and Wires (Motorcraft) Starter Solenoid Coil Pack Distributor
TFI Module Distributor Cap and Rotor Battery Timing Belt
EEC Relay Ignition Switch Tires Front Brakes Brake Master Cylinder (had previously been damaged) Front tie-bars Every gasket from the head up.
So I was driving my car about a week ago when it decided to "die" on me for about 2 seconds. I was coasting in neutral (tiptronic) to a red light when the car's engine light popped on and the car just bogged down hard. I threw the car into drive and the problem went away immediately. I haven't had the problem since then, but I'm also not allowing the car to coast in neutral anymore.
I was thinking about bringing the car in to have them read the computer but is this something that they would be able to trace back or would I be out the 90 bucks for nothing? I have absolutely no clue what this could be.
I have a 2000 Volvo V70 XC wagon AWD. I just purchased this car in January and it needed a lot of love and care. Here's my car question: I have a rattling noise that started about a week ago. Just this morning (on my way to the mechanic ironically/luckily) the rattling became very loud and apparent. The noise sounds something like a piece of metal rattling around in an empty coffee can. The noise seemed to go away when I was accelerating, get louder when coasting, and then slowed down in frequency (not volume) as the speed of my car slowed down.
My mechanic also isn't sure what's wrong. He has had himself and 2 other mechanics look at, in addition to hooking it up to machines and making phone calls to Volvo. He says the noise is unmistakably coming from my drive-shaft and that it sounds like it is traveling from one end of the drive shaft to the other. He also said it's odd because the place that the noise is coming from is just a shaft and shouldn't be making any noise?
Last week, I had my 2002 V6 on the highway for a few hours, and the transmission slipped from drive into neutral. I thought it was my wife who bumped the shifter while passing a snack to my kids in the back seat. So i put it back in gear, and kept driving.
Today, my wife was getting off the highway, and she said that as she was on the offramp, it slipped out of gear by itself again.
I shift my auto trans to neutral when approaching a red light. My theory is it reduces brake wear, reduces tranny and motor wear while sitting at the light and uses less fuel to remain in neutral until the light changes. My wife thinks it may harm the tranny.
View 19 RepliesIs it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
This is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
View 13 RepliesI have a 77 F250 4X4, 400, C6. Upshifts and downshifts are working normally, except under light load and minimal throttle the tranny downshifts to 2nd at any speed under 40 mph. I've never had an automatic do this before. I checked the kickdown linkage is pulled up so it's doesn't seem to be in kickdown position always, no vacuum leaks to the modulator. I confess to be more of a manual trans guy so my knowledge is autos is limited.
View 2 RepliesMy 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?