Volvo :: Transmission Began To Only Engage At About 1500 RPM?
Jun 2, 2016
I have a boat with Volvo AD41p engines and DP outdrives. The engines and drives have 830 hrs. Recently the transmission began to only engage at about 1,500 RPM. The Volvo dealer here says that I most likely need a new cone clutch, although they didn't really inspect it properly. Transmission fluid is full. ... show more.
I have been using the boat almost every weekend for 18 months, and it was running fine - the problem just started toward the end of a 1,000 mile trip - so the cables should be fine. It clicks into gear, but doesn't engage right away.
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Overhaul trans, new old pump, but doesn't engage in drive. Reverse and all three low work fine. Drive will only work when rpm's are applied. But without any power.
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60. I just got in it to go to the store and I swear it is possessed! My engine immediately began shaking and rumbling the idle went from very high to dangerously low. I cut it off and cut it back on. There was no rumbling but now it is idling very high close to 3.5 rpm when it does settle after a while if i even touch the gas a little it shoots right back up. My emission error message is showing but i have had it looked at a few times and they can't find anything wrong with the emissions system. Recently my transmission message came on and stayed on for a week or so but went back off before I could have it looked at and it never drove any different even when the light was on
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The car is a 1994 volvo 960, it has a rough idle, and its idling high (1500 rpm and higher) its throwing 7 codes, we just replaced the O2 sensor, we reset the computer, and still have issues, (though its no longer running rich!!!)
Here are the codes
1-1-3 injector group 1
1-1-5 injector group 2
2-1-2 O2 signal
2-3-2 long term fuel trip idle
2-1-4 rpm signal
3-1-4 cmp signal
2-3-3 long term ilde air trim
We also checked the idle control valve points 1-2 read 15 ohms and specs say 10-14, for the harness side port 1 read battery voltage (12.3) and port 2 initially read 10.2 then we wiggled and played with the injector wiring harness and it read 11.8.
We also poured fuel system cleaner right into the fuel filter and started it up, and just dumped the rest in the tank
I'm heading out to check those other sensors but what else could be causing these issues, also the temp gauge is reading cold all the time, but the fan kicks on when the car gets warm.
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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Okay so I just peaked 100k and (of course) my 6.0 has an issue. I was driving along when suddenly my Transmission Temp gauge dropped to nothing, the tow haul began flashing and my check engine light came on. My transmission hard shifted and wouldn't shift up from 3rd. I let the truck sit for a few days, no leaking was observed and no blown lines. I added 4qts of tranny fluid and went to take it for a spin. The truck did fine for about 20 minutes and the same issue occurred. I parked it and checked the dip stick and it was full. What could the issue be.
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My Auto 2.4 850 SE (38600miles) does this lately:
- idles at about 1200 rpm, and takes long to settle to its 850 position, even when warm;
- when I engage Drive, idle drops to very low, car vibrates as if engine wants to switch off, then rises again as I give gas and pull away.
Why this is the case, and what I could do to remedy this? (About 2 months ago, idling was going really nuts! I removed the flame trap and fresh air hose: it was full of oily gunk and I gave all components a good clean up with carb cleaner and then replaced them, and then idling all fine after that).
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Just put the 6.0 back in the truck, engine working good now. Went to take it for a test drive and the transmission will not engage in any gear. I don't have any codes coming up on my scanner. Can not figure out why the transmission is not working from engine R&R.
- Fluid level is good
- Swapped wiring harness from my other truck and still nothing
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 with 308657 miles on it. After changing the trans fluid, filter and checking the center support bolts for proper torque I'm still having the same problem as before. When put in drive it doesn't seem to want to pull itself much until I throttle up to 1500rpm or so, then it grabs and goes. It acts similar in reverse but the rpms aren't as high. There was a coating of something inside the pan and on most of the parts along with the magnet being covered. What to look at to narrow down my problem?
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I have a 2003 lexus gx and every time I am driving around 1,500 rpms it has a vibration and it feels like its coming from the transmission.
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I have a 02 f150 4x4 5.4 135 k the transmission will not shift into drive unless you rev it up to about 1500 rpm and when it shifts it goes in very hard but when you get moving it seems to work ok but every time you stop or slow way down it does the same thing. It works fine in reverse and the oil and filter is good. I am thinking TC but i dont know ...
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I have an '01 Dodge Ram 1500 that will not go into reverse while the truck is running. The hydraulic clutch and transmission fluid levels are good.
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I have a 1992 1500K extended cab 4WD with the 5.7L V8 engine (147,000 miles). It has been driving well since I bought it last winter. 2 days ago I took it on a longer road trip and it was doing great. Slowed down to take a 90 degree turn and the transmission suddenly hit "limp home" mode. It felt like it wasn't up-shifting out of 2nd , high RPMs while driving no more than 30mph on flat road. I have the proper amount of fluid and it is still red/pink and does not smell burnt.
Someone suggested that I check the transmission fuse but in looking through the fuse box I can't tell which is the tranny fuse. Also, I can only find one fuse box on my truck. Is there a 2nd?I feel like my next step is to take it to a transmission shop but I want to rule out whatever I can at home. I have zero experience with transmission work and don't want to get scammed into a rebuild if I don't need one. The transmission was working fine up until 2 days ago. No slipping, no hard shifting, and no noise...
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I have a 2006 Gx 470, which is the wife's car.
Yesterday I couldn't drive the car when 4WD shifter was in neutral.
The transmission would not engage in R or D.
Same thing when the car was put in low for the 4WD shifter.
However, it seems to drive normally when the shifter is in H.
When I went to put the shifter in Park from either the low or Neutral position it would have a high grinding noise.
Car is in the shop as we speak.
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Out of nowhere the car wont go into 5th, so I need to check the cables adjustment and if that doesn't work go from there. This car as of now is nothing more than a daily driver, never driven hard. I bought it last June with 40k on it and as of today it sits at 68k. Happened Friday worked fine on the commute to work, but on the way home once I got on the highway I noticed it would not engage 5th. Does not grind, pop, or anything. It is like the shifter goes into 5th but the cable has been shortened to not engage. This may be the issue but reverse, and 1st-4th work great with no issues.
I also read about the narrow oiling holes for the 5th gear and they are very easy to starve when temperatures get too low, which it has been roughly 0-15* here. I also read that the seal on the transmission gear shift unit (0A4301230H) can get worn out and allow back and forth play in the shift unit. Lastly the 5th gear is pretty weak and teeth like to shear off.
I had installed new shifter bushings the week I bought the car, and the fluid was flushed and replaced with Liqui Moly and their MoS2 additive about 5k miles ago. I'm hoping it is just the cables out of alignment due to the cold, but if not I will explore the options, as I have priced out all of the replacement parts and it'll be around $1k to replace the gear, 5th synchros, shift fork, and the gear shift unit. So a 02Q might not be out of the question.
I tried to manually pull up on the selector and move it right into the 5th position. Would not engage, so I am lead to believe that something is either wrong with the selector shaft of the transmission or the 5th gear itself.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500, 5 speed manual with 110k miles. This past winter, the truck has started to whine when it's in reverse. The strange thing is that it also whines when it's in neutral and simply rolling backwards. It's intermittent, which is why I've been hesitant to take it to a shop to have them waste a bunch of time with it and say they can't reproduce it. Things that make it more likely to occur -- the truck being cold (IE: shortly after a start), air temperature being cold, when it's in 4WD. When I brake, it stops immediately. If I have the clutch on the floor or the transmission in neutral, it will keep doing it, as long as it's rolling backwards. This never happens in any forward gear, and it's been happening intermittently for a few months now. I had the transmission fluid changed this past fall, sometime before I noticed it started happening.
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I have a 92 and the transmission has started acting up. When I put it in gear it sits for about 5 to 10 seconds before engaging mainly Drive and overdrive sometimes reverse. it shifts fine when I am driving. A shop told me the front pump is going out. Would it be worth it to flush and put some Lucas fluid in it. I am trying to advoid spending hundreds having the tranny rebuilt or replaced.
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own a 2005 Hyundai accent 1.6L engine. I replace the engine today. The previous engine had internal damage. The transmission I left alone. I didn't disconnect the wiring. I only removed the engine. The transmission worked flawless. When I turned on the car the engine sounds great and the transmission sshifted gears and the wheels were moving. The speedometer worked so then I turned the engine off and lowered the car down from the Jack stands and tired it shine but this time the transmission did not shift gears. I lifted the car back up and did still did not shift gears. The transmission does nothing. The checked the guild level and it's full. What can cause a transmission to suddenly stopped engaging gear?
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Car has been working fine but yesterday the transmission just wouldn't engage. The engine was running fine. I've just been using it as my around town car so probably put about 5K miles on it a year at this point. It has small dent in the bumper and the interior is fine but old.
I'm tempted to replace the transmission because it is an easy (albeit expensive) solution, and less work (and money) than looking for another used car with an unknown history. But does it make any sense? I've replaced the exhaust, tires and battery recently. When might the engine start giving me trouble?
1994 Camry Wagon, 215k miles,
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I have a 2002 325xi 5 speed manual with 111K miles on it.
Outside Temp 34 degrees F
I was able to pull out of the driveway and drive down the road for about 4 miles and then as I was shifting into 4th gear the temp was displayed in the info box as +37 and the car would not move forward. (was not able to engage into 4th gear or any gear.
I pulled into a parking lot and went through all the gears but none would engage. No noise was heard from the transmission.
I depressed the clutch, put into first gear, let out the clutch and gave it gas but got no movement at all. Repeated for all gears including Reverse.
The car drove fine the other day, The service light is on and I got the following codes the other day from Pep Boys:
P0171
P0174
P0102
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2004 3 series BMW... When the temperature drops below around 40F, my daughter's car does not want to move in forward or reverse for the first few minutes. I watched her rev it up to 5000 RPM to get it to move the other morning. I explained how bad that is for the engine and asked her to be patient and let the car idle for a few minutes to warm up the transmission before starting out.
Two or three blocks down the street, after it has warmed a bit, the transmission engages briskly at the touch of the throttle and shifts normally with no unusual slippage.
I first noticed this after the last transmission fluid change. I suspected the wrong fluid had been put in it, and took it back to the BMW specialty shop that changed the fluid. The shop assured me that it contains the correct fluid and tried to tell me that there is nothing wrong with the transmission because the transmission computer is not storing any codes, and it worked perfectly when they drove it. Obviously 5000 RPM to move on a cold morning is not right.
Should I change the fluid again and see if it workss? I am hesitant because that full synthetic transmission fluid is expensive. Could a temperature sensor that says it is warm when the transmission is actually cold cause this problem?
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