Volvo :: Timing Belt Tensioner Broken - Bottom Of Valves Melted
Apr 23, 2012
I recently bought a 97 960. i have had a s90 before in totaled it i loved the car so much i found another. i was driving and broke the timing belt tensioner which in turn lead to the breaking of 5 exhaust valves that i know of. I've taken off the head and noticed that one of the bottom of the valves had melted onto the number 5 piston head.
I called around and search but every motor is at least 1000 and i have been told anywhere from 3500-4500 to rebuild. My question would b is there an easy way to fix or should i junk it. i bought it for a 1000 it has only 140000 on it an its in almost great condition. I attached some pictures of the head and piston so u can see the damage.
Attached File(s)
2012_04_07_19.02.39.jpg ( 1.45MB )
2012_04_10_16.45.26__1_.jpg ( 1.43MB )
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So my son's car started to sound like a diesel at idle - a good precursor to timing belt tensioner failure and belt slip, as that happened last night.
When we pulled the belt cover off and turned the dampener pulley by hand the belt was spinning on the bottom gear. When turning the engine over, there was no mechanical noises to indicate valves making contact. Did we get lucky or are the valves just bent out of the way?
How can you tell the valves are bent without taking the head off?
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First off I have a issue the Timing Belt Tensioner Stud / bolt that holds my tensioner on is stripped and came out with my tensioner. I don't want to risk putting it back into the engine because some one prior to owning my car stripped the nut that holds it in. Where I could get a new one of these bolts. I have a 2000 VW Golf GL with a 2.0l. I've searched high and low on parts sites and cannot figure out where to buy this item.
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So, I got a 01 b5 1.8 5spd given to me was broken timing belt. The car is super clean with 226k on it and had been well-taken care of..oil changes Mobil 1 and such. the owner just got his $$ worth and drove it till the belt went, slapping then towed it to my shop. It did not overheat and he was not driving it hard. Now here is my real question...apars lapping on a new belt and crossing my fingers, what testing can I do to check and see if there are any valves damaged? Can't I do a compression test w/out the valve train in time right? Also, if there does happen to be head damage. I would be in the market for an AUG head, unless it's just a valve that can be replaced....
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I am deep into replacing the timing belt on my 08 Elantra 2.0, and am nervous about taking the tensioner off since it is not obvious how to set it. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
The Haynes manual talks about 1/4 deflection but that seems too imprecise.
I can not see the marks in the video : DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2 - YouTube
And this post 2008 Elantra Timing Belt does not quite seem to explain. I am contemplating putting it all back together, just changing the accessory belts and handing it to a shop. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
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I recently had a good amount of work done to my Mk4 R32. Last night on my drive home from the stealership I ended up with a passenger headlight out and a very loud clicking/ticking noise which seems to be coming from the Serpentine belt area. After closer inspection it looks like the tensioner lines are't lined up which means my belt and tensioner need to be replaced? I'm not sure, but I have a video and this picture.
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Six months ago my 2005 Honda Pilot got a new timing belt that was incorrectly calibrated. When the Honda Dealer test drove the car, they damaged the values. They fixed the valve damage and gave me a discount on the timing belt. I considered selling the car, but decided to keep it.
Now it's six months later. When driving I hear a "clicking noise". The dealer says that the timing belt tensioner needs to be replaced and that it would be dangerous to drive it at high speed as it is now. The clicking is caused by a worn ??? tensioner.
They claim that the incorrectly calibrated timing belt could not have caused this problem with the tensioner.
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1999 Honda Accord EX, 224K miles, 4 cylinder. Timing belt broke yesterday and ruined some exhaust valves. Also needs new radiator. Should I spend quoted approx $3500 for fixed cylinder head and valves, 30K mile check (plugs, valve adj etc), new radiator, might also include piston rings, not sure? Completely trust the mechanic. Other recent work already done is one new front wheel bearing and axle, new bearing boots on both sides, oxygen sensor, new clutch a year ago. Interior/exterior are in good shape. How many more miles am I likely to get on this engine if I have the work done? Will I likely need ball joints replaced soon? Anything else I should be considering?
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I have an 01 subaru impreza with 185000 miles. The timing belt broke while I was driving. I gave the mechanic five-hundred for parts and labor but then he told me the engine would need to be pulled to fixed damaged head and valves.
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I recently broke a timing belt on my 1999 AEB 1.8t Passat. I'm in the process of doing all of the repairs myself while working around my college and work schedule. I have yet to pull the head off, and I'm scared of what I'll find when I do. Should I expect any piston damage? I have one completely broken valve and a bunch of bent valves.
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2002 Toyota Solara SLE v6 w/ 209k miles
Drove the car home from church yesterday, this morning went to start and wouldn't start..
Tested the Fuel Pump and that looks good.. Pulled a spark plug and did a spark test and I get no spark.
After reading up I get the sense it is either the Crank Angle Sensor or the Timing Belt snapped .. I don't know the last time the timing belt was changed, we got the vehicle @ 190k miles..
Does a no spark symptom sound like a timing belt that could have snapped? I believe these are non-interference engines so it should be ok..
When turning the car over the RPM gauges doesn't look like it is moving but wanted to see for a complete spark failure.
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The timing belt on my 2004 Chevy Aveo broke last week. I have it at a mechanic who got a new timing belt on to check the compression of the engine. Bad news: no compression. So far they haven't taken the head off to inspect the inside. This includes timing belt/water pump, cylinder head gasket removal and replacement, cylinder head check, some misc labor, lube, oil, and filter...
However, another mechanic is suggesting that I replace the engine instead with a used or refurbished engine with less miles. He says that it doesn't make much sense to put new parts on the top end of the engine. The engine itself has about 153k miles on it.
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2.5 Litre ... Okay, I've done this on other cars, both Fords without a problem but now I'm stuck on the no start situation. I have spark and my fuel pressure is 60 psi. About to do a compression test. Only issue with replacing the belt is that no matter how many times I try removing and installing it I'm always 1/2 tooth off after rotating the engine a couple of times but that shouldn't be enough for a complete no start. Tried starting fluid. Replaced cam sensor. new plugs. checked firing order. I have spark at #1 according to my test lamp which plugs inline.
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I came into my car, I was cleaning my cup holder and the bottem is MELTED! All I keep there is GUM and drinks. The melted plastic is the same dent as if I staked the gum box. What kind of cheap plasic is Lexus using? I can't believe its gotten THAT hot in the car. Heck, I would figure other things to melt first. To top it off, the gum box looks ok. No plastic smell from it either.
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