Volvo :: Smoke Out Of Oil Dipstick At Idle
Feb 4, 2013
I have a 2007 S60 FWD 2.5T. My mechanic told me that at some point, I had an oil leak from my rear camshaft seals. After doing some research, I checked my oil dip stick and at idle, I could see white smoke coming out of it.
Looks like I need a new PCV Valve. I did some research online and a bunch of vendors sell the PCV kits. [URL] ....
Can I just replace the breather box and the associated parts in this kit or do I also need to change the Crankcase Vent Hose ? [URL] ....
Also, since this is going to be a pretty expensive job (with removal of intake manifold etc), are there any other things I should be looking to replace? Car has 115K miles.
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I have a 93 Volvo 850 N/A, there is white smoke coming out of the dipstick tube, not alot but enough, also there's like a white/ yellow foam on the dipstick tube, but the coolant has not changed, so im assuming its not a headgasket. I have cleaned out most of the vacuum lines and flame trap but cant find the pvc valve.
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I've got smoke coming out of my oil dipstick tube. 1996 Mercury Mystique 2.0L automatic, 62000 miles. I noticed a burning oil smell after a short (10 mile) drive, and checked the oil when I got home. A few wisps of smoke smelling of burning oil came out of the dipstick tube when I removed the stick. I was just curious how worried I should be about this.
As far as I can tell, my cooling system works (radiator hoses are warm, good hot air from the vents, thermostat and coolant recently replaced, hoses inspected, no leaks) and I'm not thinking the burnt oil is caused by overheating. There hasn't been any noticeable oil consumption, and I'm pretty diligent about checking the oil on this old car. Oil changes every 3000 miles since I've owned the car; dealer performed scheduled maintenance for the old owners.
Here's my thinking: a worn piston ring allowing oil to be burnt and then sucked back through into the crankcase. When I changed my spark plugs, I did notice an oily residue on one of the plugs (cylinder #1), which also leads me towards a piston ring diagnosis (though I was hoping it was a valve seal causing the oily spark plug, or even a spark plug seal). Do a wet compression test is in order, or should I go ahead and get a leakdown test? I am going to buy a compression tester, but I do not have an air compressor to use with the leakdown tester; I'd have to take it to a shop.
I do need to service the PCV system (and would have done it today, but the parts hadn't arrived at the store) -- would a PCV problem cause the oil to burn, though?
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Temp is at 190, runs great, coolant levels are fine, everything seems fine but there's a constant stream of smoke coming from my dipstick tube. Oil isn't milky. 2.0 AZG. Tried searching but only found threads for 1.8t's. Headgasket was done recently.
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Did my first oil change with Rotella T6. I drained, replaced filter, filled with 13 quarts new. Started engine, let it idle about a minute, turned off, checked level and everything was good. Then I drove about 3 or 4 miles just to make sure everything sounded ok, and when I got back home checked level one more time. After driving, the oil level was still fine, no leaks detected anywhere, but there was smoke coming out of the dipstick hole when I pulled the dipstick. Is this normal?
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94 850 turbo will randomly smoke like crazy at which time it fills the car with smoke completely fogs whatever street you're on.
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I have a '97 volvo 850 R with 185,000 miles. ive owned it for 2 months and synthetic oil is used in it but I haven't changed the oil yet. When I opened the oil filler cap today just after I drove it, smoke or steam came out of it. i checked the dipstick and there was white sort of gunky stuff on it. What is that? would an oil change fix that?
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I have a '97 volvo 850 R with 185,000 miles. I've owned it for 2 months and synthetic oil is used in it but I haven't changed the oil yet. When I opened the oil filler cap today just after i drove it, smoke or steam came out of it. i checked the dipstick and there was white sort of gunky stuff on AUTOCOM CDP PLUS. what is that? would an oil change fix that?
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Attached 2 images indicating where it leaks. This does not appear to be only leak but first thing first.
How to cure this. There is a number of stop-leak products out in the market: will they fix? Or should I change some rubber parts?
Attached File(s)
Untitled_1.jpg ( 80.12K )
Screenshot_2014_03_10_01_40_57.png ( 453.5K )
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I drive an 84 242--something bad happened when I was driving from Baltimore to Phoenix. Mostly it is now that I live in a very hot desert. But the thing with the car involved a short period (15 seconds) where smoke came out of the center console (behind the heating controls). After this the headlights didn't work. Everything else in the car works fine. I've checked the fuses--they are all good (both visual and by running a battery and flashlight bulb through it on the lighting fuses).
Of course when the headlights are off there isn't an issue. The lights are off. When I turn the headlight knob to the driving lights (center position) the parking lights come on. It is when I turn the knob to the headlights (rightmost) position that things go wrong--not only do the headlights not come on, but the parking lights go off.
Could this be the switch? Or more likely the step relay?
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I believe my head gasket is blown, but no one really knows what's wrong with it.. Car stalled & then smoke came out the oil tank an coolant tank an muffler? I just got this car used a month ago.. where to start..
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The condition is the vehicle has a hard start condition after it has run (warmed up) and sat for a short period of time (10-15 minutes). I replaced Thermo Time Switch this weekend. The condition still exists.
I checked the voltage to the cold start valve after the Thermo Time Switch was installed. It briefly went to 8.5, then 9 (all in less than one second) then back to zero (not O.L)
The fuel check valve was serviced in 12/2006.
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Car has begun to idle very fast ( comes and goes ) ( 1992 240 ) ....
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We have an 04 Volvo V40 which won't idle when it's cold out, especially at altitude. Not all the time- it seems to be somewhat random, but it is getting more frequent. Our mechanic has replaced the MAP and TCV sensors and that didn't make any difference. What to try next? It recently passed an emissions test, so when it idles, it runs fine.
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A friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
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I changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and had a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
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I changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and Porsche Piwis Tester II a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
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760 turbo intercooler 2.3 4-speed auto. It will not idle properly but when you run it around town it is fine, smooth and powerful. If you take it out on the motorway it will be ok for speeds up to 55 (lumpy going uphill) if you push it over 70 it is ok, but between 55 and 70 it is rough and sort of misses without backfiring. Also a cloud of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. If you kick it down to 3rd it will go like a rocket and not miss at all!! It has been seen by the RAC and been in the garage and they say everything is working, but can't check the air flowmeter as it would cost too much to buy one and it works fine.
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I have a 2000 volvo S40 19T, it starts up, and will run just fine if you give it any amount of gas, but it just wont idle. I unplugged the MAF sensor and it ran the same. I then took the IAC valve off and put a towel over the port (To let some gas in but not completely shut it off) It runs GREAT like that! I kept the IAC plugged in and the towel over the port, started her up and put a lot of pressure on the towel to cut of all air, the car idle went really really low and then it shut off. Now since the car knows it is stalling, and it needs more air I should be able to see the IAC opening and closing (Remember it is plugged in, but in my hand), it didn't move at all!
I have run the car with my towel over the IAC ports and chased all around the intake manifold and other intake duct work with carb cleaner to try and fine vacuum leaks to no avail. I even did the towel trick with a multimeter hooked up to the wires that plug into the IAC valve, it is getting a small amount of voltage, say 2 to 3 volts, but the new valve still won't open, and I have yet to confirm that the current changes with idle fluctuations when I press on the towel.
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My 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD has an engine whistle at idle, but it stops momentarily when I turn the stearing wheel left or right, then comes back. Whats up?
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60 T5 Turbo with 145K on it, lately when at a stop, in Drive, my idle fluctuates, dipping below 1K RPM where it normally is, fluctuating between 500-1K RPM. Note the spark plugs have nearly 100K on them, but otherwise, car runs great (besides lots of oddball suspension noises)
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