Volvo - S80 :: 2002 - Intermittently Shut Off / Smelling Gasoline In Cabin Recently?
Jan 23, 2016
My 02' Volvo s80 has been malfunctioning recently and I am not entirely sure what it could be. Today I was driving it slowly and it just all the sudden lost power and turned off, I was able to start it back up about 30 seconds later then parked it and restarted it again after a few minutes. Seems to drive ok afterwards. I've been smelling gasoline in the cabin recently. And it has run out of gasoline at least three times in a the past few months. I am suspecting a fuel filter. I checked the fuse and relay which turned out to be fine. Then I put my ear near the gas tank area as someone turned the car on and off. I could hear a flowing type sound, so the fuel pump sounds like it's operating correctly. Could it be a fuel filter causing the random shut offs? I read that when a car runs out of gasoline the deposits and gunk at the bottom of the tank are forced out which could clog the fuel filter. Maybe the reason for the smell of gasoline too? My instrument cluster has been on the fritz so I've been calculating the gas on a notebook. However recently the gas seems to be fluctuating the amount it takes. Sometimes it will take a lot of gasoline and other times it will spill out.
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For weeks I've been smelling gasoline fumes inside the car, usually when the weather is cold and when the car has been sitting overnight; sometimes while it is idling. Have had to car to my mechanic, who I have confidence in and who has done a good job with repairs in the past. He could not locate the source of the fumes.
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Been smelling gas in a 02 vovlo s80. At first, I thought I had tracked it in with from the pump with my shoes. But after washing things up, a week has gone by and the smell persists. I am concerned there may be a leak somewhere. Not sure here. What do you think it could be?
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I can smell the exhaust inside the cockpit when accelerating and high RPMs, but in nothing in normal driving. I checked the pipes for leaking but all is fine.
My friend suggested to remove the catalytic converters that might be blocked. the car Mileage is now 145000 KM....
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS with about 68k. Starter her up this am and smelled a very strong odor of gasoline in the cabin. I check my garage floor and didn't see any leaks. Drove it for a few minutes and the smell went away. What might be causing this?
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2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege' which recently started losing power periodically. At the same time, the check engine light would blink and then stay solid. The dealer diagnosed a random engine misfire and replaced the spark plugs, wires, and coil packs. It cost $500.00. After 3000 miles, the problem has returned worse than before. This weekend it lost and regained power repeatedly in short spans of time, and lurched back and forth as it happened. The check engine light returned as well.
My first question: what do you think this is? My neighbor suspects a clogged fuel filter or fuel regulator.My second question: what, if anything, does the dealer owe me financially?
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Subaru Impreza 2004 2.5 TS170,000 km
For a couple of months now and every few days, my car turns over nicely but chokes. I can keep the engine running by pressing the gas pedal as lightly as possible without letting the engine stop or rev too high, and after about 15 seconds it stays on on its own. When it's running it runs very smoothly...no knocking or shuddering or poor idling at lights.
So there’s obviously a gas delivery problem at startup. I don’t know if I can but I would love to rule out the fuel pump since it's only at startup (fuel filter is new, battery is new, and sensors have been checked, even during a failure to start scenario) and it runs so well when driving. Also, it won’t start randomly, regardless of temperature, cold start or not, incline, etc. I read that a fuse can have intermittent problems but again it seems to me that it should be properly intermittent, not just at startup. Which leaves the relay and wires.
Now thinking about wiring, a few years ago I noticed I could no longer leave my highbeams on. I could hold the lever and make them stay on, but pushing the lever into the on position no longer works. Also, recently and only once, on a -26 C day, the air compressor was dead when I started the car. After stopping and starting for a half an hour I noticed that it had come back on. Does this sound like it could be connected? Where do I even start to diagnose this starting problem?
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I have a 1996 Volvo 960 station wagon which I love dearly. It's been a wonderful car, however something new has occurred that has me quite concerned. Whenever I turn on the heater, I smell gas fumes. This doesn't occur when the A/C is working or when I turn the temperature dial beyond the numbers to the red mark. I understand this is a different heat source than the regular heater. When I took my car in to the dealer for its 150,000 miles checkup I told them about this problem. They experienced it, but couldn't find the source of the challenge. They want me to bring it in again and keep it overnight so they have a lot of time to decipher the source of the problem.
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I was replacing bulbs with brighter LEDs when the screwdriver touched two contacts in the dor light. The cabin light immediately shut off and will not turn on and the other interior lights are nonfunctional as well. The 10A fuse is still intact (this worries me the most).
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I recently noticed gasoline odor in the oil. What is the cause ??
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Recently i been noticing that it takes up a lot of power from the battery causing it to sometimes shut off or the needle almost at the out of power side. Besides the basic electrical's, i have a subwoofer and amp hooked up that have never caused me any problems. Now that i'm noticing this whenever i switch anything on the needle will go down a bit and when i switch it off it goes back to normal and i used to hear my music loud with no problem now i'm scared to even take it that high cause i'm scared it might shut off while im driving. Has happened many times on me and on my dad on the freeway before. Even turning on the headlights at night the needle goes down.
Info about the battery, i don't think it has been changed in a LONG time and looks old also. The car was abandoned in our garage for a long time till i got my DL about 2 years ago and parents gave me the car.
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After all my attempts, I could not fix the rough idle. I have done the gaskets of the gaskets and bolts of the intake manifold (the engine light disappeared), I have changed the bushings of the manifold too (the one one the left side), I have changes the TPS sensor, I have cleaned the MAF sensor...
The rough idle is still there (and getting worse) and there is some smell of gasoline now. I suspect that I have to change sparks and cables, but I wanted to confirm first with you because the whole thing seems complicated as some of the plugs are buried very "conveniently". You could usually feel an ascending vibration while waiting at the traffic light. You can't feel it as much when in neutral, but it is still there.
I have noticed that on the right side of the Intake manifold (under the throttle) there is some sort of greasy substance that always looks wet. I suspect that it is burnt oil, but that think's been there since I bought the car, so I am not sure if it is related in any way.
I haven't changed the oil and air filter since last summer but I doubt that would be an issue. Additionally I realized that I put pure antifreeze when I need to use 50/50. Anyways, those things I will fix this summer anyways. All I want to fix now is the rough idle because these vibrations drive me nuts.
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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Increasingly, my s70 won't start. Turn key and nothing When this first occurred this spring I had it towed to my mechanic. He found that a starter cable was starting to detach. He re attached and started all summer with a few exceptions. Now this fall it is not starting every couple of days. Turn key and nothing. Have if towed to the mechanic and it starts fine. So should I have the starter replaced?
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar that only in the fall and winter it has a longer crank time of at least 10 seconds. In the summer it starts as it should within 3-4 seconds. I did notice that the times it did start normally in the colder air is when I turned the key on and listened to the fuel pump prime the system. All other times it doesn't do that and that's when I get the long crank time. Once it is started it runs as normal. Am I looking at a possible fuel filter or pump? I am due to replace the filter as the van has 83,000 miles on it. If this is the possible culprit, is this something that is easily replaced at home?
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I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE (Automatic) it just started to run rough and has been drinking gas at an alarming rate. Almost 1/2 tank in about 60 miles. The car doesn't seem to be running slow or smelling of gas. I was told it was fuel injection issues and have added some cleaner but I am shocked with how bad it go so quickly. I had two motor mounts replaced in the car recently (the front one a day before this started). Would they have knocked something out of wack?
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I drive an 84 242--something bad happened when I was driving from Baltimore to Phoenix. Mostly it is now that I live in a very hot desert. But the thing with the car involved a short period (15 seconds) where smoke came out of the center console (behind the heating controls). After this the headlights didn't work. Everything else in the car works fine. I've checked the fuses--they are all good (both visual and by running a battery and flashlight bulb through it on the lighting fuses).
Of course when the headlights are off there isn't an issue. The lights are off. When I turn the headlight knob to the driving lights (center position) the parking lights come on. It is when I turn the knob to the headlights (rightmost) position that things go wrong--not only do the headlights not come on, but the parking lights go off.
Could this be the switch? Or more likely the step relay?
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My turbos shut down intermittently, after several hours of highway driving and after shutting the ignition off. Upon re-start, the check engine light illuminates and I have no turbos. Letting the car sit (turned off) for several hours will re-set them back into operation. Three visits to the shop have not solved the problem and the technicians have no clues. I don't think the turbos themselves are to blame. More likely the computer is getting a signal from somewhere that is prompting it to set a trouble code and disable the turbos. Is this what is called "limp mode"?
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My girlfriend has a 245 that we bought her last year. It runs really well except that every once in a while it will refuse to start. It still cranks and will sometimes turn over after trying long enough, usually running rough for a minute or two but then starts to idle normally. I have followed the no-start/stall guide and I think it's an ignition issue. The fuel pump relay looks to have been replaced recently and when jumping the pumps from the fuse box they both come on. I'm thinking it's a lose connection somewhere in the ignition system due to it being an intermittent issue. Tested pin 15 on the coil and it gets 12 volts - what should I do next to shake this down?
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My 1999 Volvo V70 is having intermittent issues starting/stalling out. Sometimes it will start right up and go, other times, it will start and the rpms will fluctuate then it stalls/shuts off or will go in gear but fluctuate rpms erratically it will do this multiple times after 3 or more restarts it will run fine until it is turned off then the same thing all over again.
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