My 1999 Volvo has been diagnosed by a Volvo dealer to have a bad "cooling fan relay". Another shop analysis states the "cooling motor fan assembly module" is the problem. Are these one in the same? Can I replace it with one from the salvage yard? Are there any bad omens with messing up other electronic components If I make the repair myself?
View 9 RepliesWhat is the trick to removing air from the cooling system? Today I replaced the water pump on my daughter's 1990 240 wagon. I filled up the cooling system and believe there is air in the system. The car gets hot immediately, when I squeeze the hoses they feel soft, particularly the lower hose. During the fill procedure, I was not able to find an air valve on the thermostat housing. I suspect there is air in the system causing it not to circulate.
View 2 RepliesWhat are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesI was wondering if most of you here cool down your turbo for a minute or two before turning your car off after driving it kind of aggressive for a while? In the past I've heard people say "Most turbo failures happen from improper warm up and cool down".
View 13 RepliesI'm going to be tapping into my water supply for the Turbo and WG cooling. Where do I run the water back into? Or, what have others done?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan that has 195,000 miles. My radiator fan won't turn on and I'm stumped! The issue presented itself with a check engine light and the radiator cooling fan not turning on. The trouble code indicated the cooling fan relay was faulty. In all cases below, I tested the radiator fan by turning on the air conditioning (thus forcing the cooling fans to run) and also for it to come up to a high temperature coming close to the danger zone.
1. Fuse - first tested the fuse and it was OK. Had to start with simple things first.
2. Cooling fan relay - I replaced the relay which has a reputation for failing on the Dodge. Still the fan did not kick in.
3. Cooling fans - tested the cooling fans and the motor was seized. Replaced the cooling fans and tested them by jumping them. The cooling fans still do not turn on. There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay and coming into the cooling fan harness.
4. Wiring - tested the wiring between the relay and the fans. They checked out OK (good continuity and resistance check). There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay. Now it's getting more complicated... I unplugged the wiring harness from the ECM and tested the wiring between the ECM and the cooling fan relay. A-OK.
5. ECM - it is unclear how to check the ECM for functionality of the cooling fan.
There are 3 wires (supply, ground, and switch wire?) The supply voltage and ground is good, but I don't know what voltage the switch wire should be. I've read that it is pulse width modulated so I can't measure this with a simple voltmeter. I've also read that the switch wire goes to ground thus triggering the relay. I don't know which is correct. Several mechanics I talked to were skeptical that the issue is with the ECM, they knew of very few instances of this being the culprit. I even replaced the new cooling fan relay with another new cooling fan relay on the off chance that the replacement was faulty. Did I miss something in my logic and diagnostics? I've resorted to wiring a switch directly to the cooling fans and toggling them on and off.
I have a 2005 Subaru Forester with 88k on it. I bought it with about 70k on and have been doing a lot of the services myself.
I change the oil religiously. I recently changed the thermostat on the car, cleaned out the reservoir and now the car has new antifreeze. The reason I did this was because cars cooling fan is always going at full blast. This only started about 6,000 miles ago. So since it was a easy job I figured change the thermostat. I am in NY and it has been very cold out, but with my 10 mile commute to work by the time I pull into the parking lot the cooling fan is very loud and the noise is very noticeable.
I recently drove up to go skiing, ( the temp outside was 9 degrees) I was on the interstate going about 70 to 77 mph because the car was going uphill and the incline was significant , I would push more on the gas pedal and I would see the thermostat on the dash going up very closely to the red mark. I pulled over a few time, the fans were at full blast.
I recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
View 7 RepliesAfter fixing no brake lights on my 86' 740 I still can't get the inner ones to work. To fix the problem I changed the brake lamp failure relay. The bulbs are good. The relay was used.
View 1 RepliesI just had my solenoid changed and I changed the OD relay and my car still doesn't shift into 4th gear. Could the garage have put the solenoid on backwards? my switch on the shifter was replaced with a toggle switch from autozone. My volvo has 230K miles and it is a 1990.
View 17 Replies2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
View 2 Replies94 850 turbo will randomly smoke like crazy at which time it fills the car with smoke completely fogs whatever street you're on.
View 1 RepliesIt starts and idles fine and drives fine until the turbo spools and gets past atmospheric.. at this point the acceleration gets worse even though you can clearly hear the turbo blowing (gauge well into the yellow).. checked the ground connections on the head and intake, seemed good, replaced tps, replaced knock sensor, replaced hall sensor, tried another ecu, checked cam timing. Had a volvo mechanic friend looking at it prior to my fiddling with it and he seemed to think the ignition timing was retarded too much.. but I've done everything i can think of to tackle that problem.
View 3 Replies760 turbo intercooler 2.3 4-speed auto. It will not idle properly but when you run it around town it is fine, smooth and powerful. If you take it out on the motorway it will be ok for speeds up to 55 (lumpy going uphill) if you push it over 70 it is ok, but between 55 and 70 it is rough and sort of misses without backfiring. Also a cloud of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. If you kick it down to 3rd it will go like a rocket and not miss at all!! It has been seen by the RAC and been in the garage and they say everything is working, but can't check the air flowmeter as it would cost too much to buy one and it works fine.
View 3 RepliesI have a problem with my 1988 740 Turbo. It starts and runs fine, but when cold it experiences a drop every few seconds when idling. In other words, when idling cold, it will act as though the key was turned off but just before stopping completely it catches and continues to run.
I guess I'm trying to describe something other than rough running, or a poor idle - this is more like an ignition short where the engine completely stops (but never does). The tach needle shows this also. It continues doing this while accelerating around the neighborhood but once the car is at operating temp it smooths out. I live in San Diego so it never gets cold here.
The car was tuned up last year and the distributor was replaced at the same time. New cap, wires, plugs. Car has close to 290K and still runs great except for this issue.
My 1994 850 turbo will crank but will not start. it started when the car was having trouble accelerating past 40 mph and felt like it was kicking back then it died on the freeway and now will not start. i ran the error codes and got these back, from A2 452, 455, 543, 544, 545, 552, 555 and from A7 122. I'm not sure what to do?
View 4 Replies1991 740 Turbo
200k
all stock
Now days I hear exhaust gas leak from inside engine room when the motor is fully warmed up and ran for some time. The other day I put seafoam treatment in the car and I saw white smoke coming from the turbo charger area.
Is exhaust gas leak from the turbo charger common? What are the possible cause for this?
I have access to the fuse panel but I need to remove the panel to reach the relays. I need to change the socket in the relay panel because one is burnt out. I change the K(headlight)relay and when my car is off and key out of the ignition my lights are still on.
View 10 Repliesi have had this problem before where the relay for the electric fuel pump would quit intermittently, and had it fixed. but, i suspect this is acting up again. so, i was gonna do it myself. there are 2 relays strapped to the radiator overflow can. is one of them the relay i am seeking?
What started all this, motor was running really rough at idle, but ran ok once moving. So, I replaced the spark plugs, and cleaned the contact areas in/on the cap and bug. motor started right up, and actually sounded good... for about 10 or so seconds, then it died, like the gas was shut off. I do have spark.
How to check/test the fuel pump relay and could pass this info on to me would be good. i do have test light, and DMM.
I have a '98 Volvo V70 that has a slow leak in the cooling system. I have brought it to my indie Volvo mechanic several times and they keep trying new things - they've replaced the thermostat, all the hoses, overflow tank, and this last time used Stop Leak in case I have a bad head gasket. I'm 4 visits and $1600 into this repair, and it's still leaking. Now they're saying it must be the head gasket and it will be $3000 to fix. What do I do???? How do I know it will fix the car and when do I ask for my money back? When do guarantees come into play? Is the car worth it? It's worth nothing with a leak, so I'm stuck in this corner.
View 7 RepliesThe past summer my 1994 Volvo 940 non-turbo over heated and we worked on the coolant system and got it working god again. However just after we fixed it the headlights blew out and we replaced them and then they blew out again. The battery was also going dead when the car was turned off and all electric things were turned off. Now the head lights don't blow but once they are turned on with the switch in the car they cant be turned off unless the battery is disconnected.
Also as of now none of the dash board instruments are working. With the car on and the lights turned on we pulled the connector to the switch that turns on the lights, that is on the dashboard, and the lights still stayed on. We can only think that some water may be causing the problem but it may or may not. I need to know how to fix the headlight problem and the instrument panel.