Volvo S70 :: 2000 - Can't Remove Ignition Key When Engine Is Warm
Dec 31, 2013
2000 Volvo S70, 177K - This car is new to me, and shortly after purchasing it, I began having difficulty removing the ignition key when arriving at a destination. With the transmission in Park, and the engine shut off, the key just won't come out. Then again, sometimes there's no problem at all. Oddly, the problem seems to correlate with the cabin/engine temp. If I allow the car to cool off, then go back to it in a half hour, the key will usually come right out. Same thing with short trips. I'm fortunate so far that I've not been in any high crime areas where leaving the key would be risky; but I will need to solve this eventually.
I understand that there's a safety switch/sensor that ensures the vehicle is in Park before the key can be removed, and I've tried being a bit more "forceful" in shifting to P, but that doesn't seem to work. I'll be taking this to my mechanic anyway for a state safety inspection followup; are there any hints I can give him if I can't figure it out myself?
Is the temperature factor suggestive that the problem is in the transmission sensor? I'd prefer that the issue be a sensor or adjustment rather than in the ignition switch just to avoid the re-keying mess.
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Last weekend I decided my brothers 850 T5 was well over due an Engine oil and AFT change (two years for oil and never for the atf). The car has done 182,000 and drives great. Any way I bought 20 litres of 15w-40 and 20 litres of DEX 3 atf as it worked out a lot cheaper and it can be used for my fathers 940.
Anyway on Saturday I got the engine warm and noticed the oil pressure light flicker on and off. it had never done that before so I should have checked the dipstick there and then but I just went ahead and drained the old oil and removed the filter. To my surprise only about two litres of black oil came out despite the fact my brother swears he checked it 2 weeks before and it was fine. I thought this was odd as the engine had been running perfect and at that level I would expect serious damage to have been done. I fitted the new filter and sump plug with washer, filled a 5 litre tub from the bigger 20L tub and poured in 4L. I checked the dip stick and it took the remaining litre to get the level correct. I checked it again and then started the engine to get the oil into the filter etc and the level was still perfect. I finished the atf change(that's another story) and thought it a job well done.
The next evening my brother was about to use the car and I said I would check the level one more time now it was cold. There was nothing on the dipstick. There was no oil under the car so I slowly topped it up but nothing showed on the stick. I knew there was at least 5 litres in there so I didn't want to over fill it but when I started it, it sounded tappety. I put another couple of litres in and the noise reduced but still nothing on the stick. he then drove the car for a short journey and it drove fine but I said it was still tappety. I checked the oil again and now the handle snaps off the dipstick.
I have done oil changes many times before and am really very competent mechanically (I'm an engineer). Any way this gets me doubting the dipsticks accuracy so I suggest he let our neighbour who's a mechanic take a look the next day and basically today he came back and said he drained the oil and there was only 2.5 litres of oil in the engine. He topped it up and it's running fine and I fixed the dipstick with glue to check and it's perfect there as well. The thing is I know that I put enough in there, and my 20 litre tub has only 10 left.
The car is fine now. I know the obvious ones are that it was my mistake and I didn't put enough oil in, or I don't know the difference between a 1 litre and 5 litre tub but I assure you that this wasn't the case. Is there any where internal this quantity of engine oil can leak to? the transmission? coolant?
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My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
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I am happy owner of a 740 1987 4 door sedan. How to solve the problem: the engine do not stop when ignition key is removed.
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The volvo dealer states they do not know why there is no oil pressure going to engine. First they stated needed reset valve then new oil pump but neither was the issue. Now they state "internal problem within engine". So either have to take engine completely apart to diagnose or replace entire engine. The car has been maintained religiously and is in mint condition. Love my car but not sure what to do next. Thought of towing to independent mechanic for second opinion?
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Put a hole in my oil pan and finally got the bolts off but power steering lines in way to finish removal. I was to.d by a volvo mechanic to lift engine a bit and it will clear way for removal but not sure how to do this.
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A friend of mine has a 2002 Pontiac Gran Prix with a reoccurring issue. It seems that from time to time that when she stops and wishes to exit the car she is unable to remove the key from the ignition. She has had it into the same shop on a couple of times and they can't seem to figure it out. Well someone told her that if it happened turn the key to the position before it starts the car, use the power lock button and unlock the doors then turn the car off and guess what each time she has done that the key can be removed. Why, when she unlocks the doors the key will come out but if she doesn't the key can't be removed.
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Recently I could not remove the ignition key on my 2007 Pontiac G6 after parking and turning off the ignition. Co-worker suggestions for a fix indicate that
(1) little shavings from the key have come off over time in the ignition, and it was suggested that I use WD-40 to lubricate the ignition, or
(2) the car was not fully in park and I simply have to make sure the car is in park.
The curious thing is that the key did eventually release while I was locking and unlocking the doors using the remote keyless entry and the problem has not yet repeated itself. I am not sure if lubricant in modern ignitions is safe, and I tried repeatedly starting and restarting the car and moving the gear shift and this did not work.
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Nothing shows up on code except "security" but no fix.
I noticed using the remote caused this problem more often. So no longer use it. Also, got a new ignition key which worked. We think it has something to do with "security" as the light comes on....intermittently. Is there a replacement part for the "security" system? A fix.? Checking your site, no one else seems to have had this problem.
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Is there a simple way to release these mothers that I'm just not getting? If so, looking for explicit instructions in minute detail..
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