My '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5.
View 1 RepliesRecently my car, after I put fuel into my car, my car won't start unless I apply the gas and then shift it into gear. I thought that perhaps replacing my spark plugs would fix this problem since it is about time for a tune up on my 2010 Hyundai Accent. About a week after changing the spark plugs I now have an error code that states that Cylinder 2 and 4 are misfiring and it is causing my car to shake while it is idling or speeding up. Also it is much slower than before to get it started from a stopped position.
View 11 RepliesMy 2003 Chevy Malibu recently, out of nowhere, starting idling really hard. It shakes and jumps quite a bit when it idles, much like a car creeps when it's about to run out of gas. It drives fine at speeds over about 10-15 mph, but then when it slows down it gets shaky and bumpy.
View 9 RepliesIts going into overdrive to early causing it to shake at around 40mph but when I get to 50mph it go away or under 35mph it not there either what could that be??? Just got torque converter and trans done and checked it wasn't that.
View 4 Replies1999 F150 4.2... Has at least a bad #2 cylinder valve. Very low compression. 200k on the truck. Here's the question: drop another motor or just do the heads?
View 5 RepliesI have no compression on #4 cylinder. Is there any way to check the cylinder for damage. So I can just replace that piston if it's good?
View 1 RepliesI got a deal on a1997 f450 7.3 what does it take to swap to 2001 f250 7.3.mine has a bad cylinder with smoking nd low compression.
View 5 RepliesI've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....
View 2 RepliesI bought this 2004 V10 Ford truck new.. It was at that time top of the line Ranch King with all the bells and whistles.. I have been trying for some time to figure out the miss I have. I was told yesterday that.. Misfire 2nd cylinder passenger side no compression.. They said I need to have a new Engine installed.. They would look for a rebuilt and would cost with installation around 5 grand.. I then took it to another garage and was told that's not it, but will check it out later in the week.. What I should look for.. No one seems to b able to figure it out.. I cannot afford a new truck at this time and 5 grand for this one to fix is not a reality..
View 8 RepliesMy '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5. Cost is 3200-3500 for the repair.
and if the price is accurate. Given the age and mileage on the car, I am reluctant to invest 3-4k.
I just picked up my truck from my mechanic after he was trying to determine what was causing a misfire in cylinder 3. He swapped coils and then did a compression test and found the following results in cylinders 1 through 4, in order: 143, 132, 57, 151. He said I need to replace the engine or start with adding Engine Restore. Is there a chance I don't need to replace the engine? Could it need a valve job?
View 10 RepliesThe car crank up normally, but when idling it misfires on #3 cylinder. When start to drive it will drive at 45 mph at full revolution but when I stop at a light the engine begins to vibrate and shakes the entire car. When moving off again, it continues to vibrate and hesitate and will not get up back in speed 25-30 mlp and now start to backfire in to the manifold. While stepping on the gas it also makes a popping sound. If I try to get the speed up any higher it will violently makes a popping sound and backfiring constantly into the manifold and struggles to go. The engine is also getting very hot although the engine gage said it normal and not overheating. If the car is sitting in a grassy area while idling it will completely burn dry the grass underneath.
View 12 RepliesI am a new vr6 owner. I just purchased mine not to long ago. It seems to have developed a pretty mean misfire on Cylinder #4. It is also showing a low compression level of 90 on cylinder #4. all my other cylinders show somewhere between 105-110. I replaced my wires and my coilpack. It did not improve anything, infact, my car seems to run worse now. I am baffled as to what can be causing my misfire.
View 7 RepliesGot myself into a tight situation with a truck I recently purchased and seeing if any of you have experienced the same thing or know what may be going on. I bought a 1998 F-150 with 213,000 miles and a 4.2 engine. When I test drove the truck it had a small chugging vibration, for lack of a better term, but the check engine light was not on and it seemed to run great while driving. No problem at highway speeds nor below.
On my way home the check engine light turned on which turned into a blinking check engine light and I knew I had been taken by a person with a diagnostic computer who cleared the codes. He made a comment about it turning on before but his "buddy" fixed the issue but I took his word because he seemed like a decent person.
I took it to a local shop and, if I remember correctly, error code 302 came up for misfire on cylinder #2. He changed the plugs and wires and it seemed to run a lot better. About 5 miles later on my way home the check engine light turned back on, but it still seemed to run smoothly by the time I got home.
The next day I took it back to him and this time we got the same error code plus (again going of my poor memory) error 174 which he said was cylinder #2 running lean. Earlier today he called and said he checked over everything and couldn't figure out anything wrong until he checked the compression. He said the other 5 cylinders were around 130 psi and cylinder #2 was at 75 psi.
Now this mechanic runs more of a brake and exhaust shop so his next statements are why I'm coming to all of you for your opinions.
He said the cylinder was shot and everything inside was shot including the piston, rings, and everything else associated with #2. (I don't think he got in there to really check it out) After scouring the forums I hear more people talk about the valves may not be sealing correctly and what sound to me, to be smaller issues than the entire #2 cylinder being toast.
I'm not sure if I am going to go after the person who sold it to me or not yet but I would like to see what others may think is going on before I light this guy up. I plan on taking it to a more proficient mechanic to do the work, if deemed worthy of work, but would like to kmow where I stand.
I have a '98 F150 with 4.6L Triton with low compression in cyl # 4 @ approx. 30#; all other cyl are at 140# or so. Would it be a burnt valve, bent valve, cam? Any harm if I drive it like that? I have not have it on the road yet.
View 14 RepliesI sea Foamed the truck today. I will be pulling my heads most likely and am doing a few things beforehand just in case. History: low compression and misfire on #2. Have changed plugs and swapped out cops. Paper against exhaust pipe sucks in and pops against the pipe intermittently. Seems like intake valve.
Anyways, poured in a whole damn bottle through the brake vacuum line. The engine sputtered a bit but never stalled. I saw almost no smoke after a whole bottle!! I thought with 156000 miles it would smoke like mad. I have taken very good care of this truck and changed oil every 3 to 5 with synthetic 5-20 since new. Could it be that clean???
Does this sound like a choke issue? The car starts up fine and runs like a top. It even drives normally for about a mile, but then as the engine warms up it starts losing compression when I press the gas pedal. The engine runs fine when my foot isn't on the gas, but stutters and won't go anywhere when I'm pressing the gas.
View 1 Replieswill it hurt my 98' forester to drive it when one cylinder has no compression? They tell me it needs a valve job for 2,500. They already put a mass air flow sensor in, and replaced plugs and wires. Still got the miss, but I need the vehicle.
View 2 RepliesRecently i been noticing that it takes up a lot of power from the battery causing it to sometimes shut off or the needle almost at the out of power side. Besides the basic electrical's, i have a subwoofer and amp hooked up that have never caused me any problems. Now that i'm noticing this whenever i switch anything on the needle will go down a bit and when i switch it off it goes back to normal and i used to hear my music loud with no problem now i'm scared to even take it that high cause i'm scared it might shut off while im driving. Has happened many times on me and on my dad on the freeway before. Even turning on the headlights at night the needle goes down.
Info about the battery, i don't think it has been changed in a LONG time and looks old also. The car was abandoned in our garage for a long time till i got my DL about 2 years ago and parents gave me the car.
Car started throwing PO304 and checked coil, plugs, wires and injectors before finally checking compression. Checked #4 and it was 70. Checked #3 and it was 150 something. Got mad and quit
3 weeks ago the CEL started coming on only when i was low in a gear. Like rolling to a stop sign and taking off in 2nd instead of 1st. Dogging the car to avoid downshifting i guess i would say. Car would jerk like crazy and throw a code but would drive out of the jerking and run fine.
There are no loud noises coming from the valves. Engine runs a lil rough at idle but you would not notice it after you get going. Spark plug #4 had some oil on the threads, others did not. No antifreeze in oil, looks good. Throws PO304 constantly now..
Buddy came over and said he would first check the timing belt to see if it had slipped before digging into the head. To tell the truth, i probably will not be digging into the head anyway's. I probably could not find the problem anyways.
Just wondering what could be some realistic explanations for losing most compression on one cylinder. Could the valve seat be getting ready to go or is that a all or none type of deal?
This is a 97 wagon with 314,000 miles. I am getting 37 MPG and it drives straight as an arrow. Just replaced all tie rods and brakes and had her front end aligned and this is how she treats me. Would like to save this car as i really like it for my 700 miles a week commute to work. Judging the price of used cars nowdays, i have thought about replacing the engine with a used one if it comes to that but we will have to see.
Our beloved 2004 Subaru Forester has the check engine light on. We've been told that the 4th cylinder has either low or no compression. Is this fixable/worth fixing? Would you replace the engine? The car has 183K miles on it, and runs great! It is stuttering now, due to this issue, but otherwise - runs great and is in good condition!
View 11 Replies