Volvo - S70 :: 1998 - Car Sluggish And Stalls Out When First Started
May 17, 2012
Could this be from bad gas? I put a bottle of Gum out fuel system cleaner in the tank was almost full and the directions say to put it in when almost empty and then fill for best results. My son bought gas at the same place I did and his car started having idle problems at about the same time my problems started (sometimes his engine races, sometimes normal, sometimes so slow it stalls out).
My car is a 98 Volvo S70
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I just bought a 1998 Camry 4 cylinder and i thought i needed to clean the EGR but my dad said it is the resonator. So I'm unsure on what it is exactly. it is kind of sluggish at idle and cant pass emissions. I was thinking of cleaning the egr since that is simple then if that doesn't work then I'll look into the resonator?
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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1998 tahoe LT .. My truck selector switch has been acting up. when i turn the switch from defrost to AC mode it takes time before it moves the doors to the correct position. does something need lubed or do i have something that needs (or will need) replaced?
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My wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
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Was on my way to work when my coil plug light started to blink - acceleration was sluggish as hell so I tried restarting the car to see what would happen. After restart the coil plug still lit up followed by the check engine light. Was gonnna be late for work so I used my other car to get to work and got the car towed to the dealer to check it out. This is what they found...
Birds decided to make a nest in my nice and cozy warm engine compartment ...
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I have a 2008 Accent Hatchback with 130k+ miles. I got a pretty good deal on it from a fellow who maintained pretty good service and had installed an aftermarket air intake (well, he removed the stock one and put a small, roughly 4" diameter, filter that is open to engine compartment) and all looked pretty good.
At the first fueling, I noticed issue - I had to rev motor for about 30-45 seconds to get it to stay started. Figuring it was an evap issue, I replaced purge valve and gas cap (cap was obviously loose). This did not correct the problem. I did not worry about it to much because with that exception, the car drove wonderfully back and forth to work, etc.....until recently.
Car started "jumping" and being sluggish. Codes came back as random misfire. Plugs and wires are only a few months old. I wondered if it had something to do with fuel so I ordered filter and pump (figured i would replace both since I was going to be pulling top off tank anyways) - this is going to be my project for the day.
Here is the kicker though : I noticed in the past day or so that car has been okay on my short commute to work in the morning and back home in evening. When I went to store midday and was parked on HOT pavement, I had issues right away. Car is very temperamental as the temperature increases. My wife also noted that last night while driving about 15 minutes away that the engine wall was hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch of her bare foot and issues were abundant.
Once I get to speed in 5th gear, I seem to be okay, no issues (yet). It is primarily during acceleration and mostly during low RPM (low for this car anyways which seems to run best at 2500+).
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We have a problem with our 1992 240 wagon. When it rains the car starts first thing in the morning but then stalls after driving 2 miles. After letting it sit for a few min. and cranking the engine it starts and will run. If we let the car run for 10 min. before driving everything is good for the day unless the car is parked for a period of time. Then it start and we need let it idle before driving. We have had the Mass air flow sensor replaced twice and that solves the problem for a few months.
This past week the car has started to stall on a damp morning even with the sun shining. Then later in the day it runs rough at a stop or stalls.
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Have swapped the following parts from my 92 240 into my 93 240 without any change in my stalling issue:
AMM, coil, ignition module, fuel relay, spun all fuses and checked hose between throttle body and AMM for holes.
Was super hot in NM today and after driving the car about 1/2 an hour it stalled and would not restart until it cooled off for about 20 minutes.
It doesn't seem to matter what level the fuel tank is. Stalled the other day when it was full.
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I have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.
Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.
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My 1999 Volvo V70 is having intermittent issues starting/stalling out. Sometimes it will start right up and go, other times, it will start and the rpms will fluctuate then it stalls/shuts off or will go in gear but fluctuate rpms erratically it will do this multiple times after 3 or more restarts it will run fine until it is turned off then the same thing all over again.
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The car occasionally stalls while at a stop and the car is idling. The car is supposed to idle at 900RPM but is idling at 550RPM. What would be suggested to prevent the car from stalling?
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It can go for days without stalling. It will rev up at a stop light on its own, so I need to put my foot on the break harder to prevent taking off.
Sometimes while shifting gears, mostly to reverse. Car smells like gas when windows are rolled down.
Other people say there's an air leak by listening, but I can't hear it. I sprayed starter fluid on the hoses to see if the rpms would go up but nothing happened.
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My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
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I've had this car for a little over a month, when I first bought the car it ran fine, until I drove it home. It stalled out and would not start up again, turned out I had low fuel pressure so I replaced the fuel pump. After this the car had been running fine up until a few days ago. It was stalling out and starting right up, now I am lucky if it will start up. I am still getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail. Would it be my injectors?
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My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
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We just brought a 2000 S70 Volvo 5 cyl. sadan. There is a problem when we start it up. Initially it starts up fine, but when you put it into drive, the rpms do not stay constant enough to keep the engine from stalling out. When you restart it, the problem repeats and repeats about five or six times, until the problem corrects itself. If in an effort to increase the rmps by applying the gas pedal, the problem may cease, but not always. Once the rpms remain constant, there are no longer any problems with the engine.
This problem is not a constant. It mostly happens when the engine is cold, but it can also happen when the car has been running and then turned off. When you turn on the warmed up engine, the problem happens again. Because we anticipate the repairs on a Volvo are likely to be expensive, we would like to have an idea of what could cause this problem and an anticipated cost.
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I have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:
1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.
2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;
car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.
4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.
5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.
6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car
putts a little; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle
lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.
The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:
-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plug Wires
-Spark Plugs
-Distributor Cap (Initially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
-Rotor Button
-Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
-K&N Air Filter
-Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
-Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Gauge Temperature Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-All Vacuum Hoses
-All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Oxygen Sensor
-Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
-Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
-Idle Air Control Valve
-Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
-Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
-Battery
-Radio Suppression Relay
-Throttle Position Sensor
-Fuel Filter
-Timing Belt and Tensioner
-Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)
The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:
1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after
3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning
4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed
5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after
6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional
7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning
8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning
9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM
10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed
11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system
12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation
13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues
14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation
15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected
16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing
17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing
18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail
The following parts have not been changed yet:
-Charcoal Box
-MAF Sensor (No Codes)
-EGR (No Codes)
-EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
-Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
-Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)
Other Issues : Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now
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my daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
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10 yr old V70 with 100K miles. Generally running well and fully serviced. Suddenly stalls, generally at low speed, without warning. No codes in system and mechanics could not replicate problem. After stop, starts up again with no problem. Idles fine.
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This is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
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