Volvo :: S60 2001 Stopping And Restarting Engine In 85 Degrees Or Above In Summer
Jun 23, 2013
My 2001 Volvo S60 2.4T 148,000 miles starts up fine in the winter and in the morning's in the summer. However, if its 85 degrees or above in the summer and the car is warmed up and I'm running errands, stopping and restarting the engine. The car will crank and sputter before it starts or it will not start. These are the dealers notes from last year: RPM signal not good. Checked for relevant codes none found. Tested fuel pressure it is OK. Found when problem exists the tach bounces and the RPM sensor signal is erratic. Needless to say I declined the extra $300 to pay for more diagnostics. When the problem reoccurred this year I took it to my local Volvo tech and they replaced the RPM sensor at the cost of $180 for parts and labor.
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Xc 90 D5 2.4 2005 diesel, will not start when it's cold (below +5 degrees), If I use the pre heater for 3 min it starts fine.
I have checked the injectors (leak back test). I checked the glow plugs and they all glow red when I turn on the ignition.
No error codes (Volvo has checked)
20131020_163050.jpg ( 2MB )
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I drive a 2005 2.00 diesel Santa Fe which has developed problem when driving. The engine stops suddenly with no reason no Management info light appears i have the car checked and there are no fault codes present. Some time the burglar alarm lights comes on after the car stops it can take up to 15 mins to restart. This fault can happen 3 times a day and happens more often when driving at low speeds.
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I have a 2005, Volvo S80, it has 107,500 miles on it. In the last two months the car has started (NOT everytime I drive but sometimes and then the next time I drive it it is fine), jerking and sometimes a thunk sound as it jerks. When it is doing it it does it s I finish stopping from going fast or slowly AND then when I accelerate it feels like a the car has a delay from the gas pedal. And starts with a jerk and the thunk sound.
When I brake what happens make me imagine that the wheelbase has stopped and the the body of the car is still going and clunks as it stops too. Like it is lurching over the wheel base. Sometimes it does it the whole time I am driving (starting and stopping) and other times the car drives fine. Talking to several mechanics they all seemed stumped and have never heard. But mechanic guesses that they want to fix have been electrical board shorting, timing belt, transmission needing to be flushed. What this actually is? And what needs to be done about it.
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I have a 2001 xc70 105,000 mi. the tranny is clunking when it gets warmed up, stopping and starting. it doesn't do it at highway speeds. when its cold it doesn't do it at all. no messages as in check engine lights.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Corolla that will not start in the summers when the engine gets hot This is the 3rd summer it has happened as I attempt to run errands on the weekend and make several stops. After the 2nd or 3rd location, the car will not start. I must wait 30-45 min. for the car to cool down. I have called tow trucks before and by the time they get to me they are able to start the car. They always check the battery and tell me it is fine. I even bought a new battery just to make sure the first summer it happened. Obviously something is heating up, but what?
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I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 265k miles. I use Mobil 5-30 synthetic oil and I drive a steep hill every day and the engine knocks in the summer afternoons when I use cheap 87 Octane gasoline from Safeway or Costco. If I use better 87 octane gasoline (Chevron, Shell) generally there is less knocking. Also during the winter months no knocking even with cheap gasoline.
During summer I can sometimes make the knocking go away by accelerating or decelerating. The knocking is intermittent and generally occurs only during the steepest parts of the commute. The engine might knock for 30 seconds to 60 seconds before its goes away as I try to change the engine RPM.
Unfortunately I am burning some oil at a rate of approximately half a quart every 5k miles. Generally I watch the oil level, but there have been cases where the oil level has fallen below the lowest mark on the dip stick so I suspect I have some carbon build up.
I've read posts where others have used additives like gumout regane and I've read posts that say not to use additives.
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I bought a 2008 Santa Fe last September, since around 2 weeks after I bought it the engine management light has been coming on intermittently. First it then after a few starts it goes off, only to come on again a few days later. Basically dealership hasn't got a clue what's causing it and thus far they've:
Replaced the DPF
Replaced the temp sensors
Replaced injector sleeves
Cleaned the EGR
DPF was changed after they couldn't force regen.
Now, it mainly comes on when I've got cruise control on, although the way I turn it on is bizarre, I have to hold down the on/off and cancel buttons for 10 seconds before it turns on.
Basically I am now running out of solutions as are the dealers, they can't replicate the problem ( although they haven't tried with the cruise)...
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Just recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 started having problems when starting on cold days. I live In PA and it just started to dip below 40 degrees. When I go to start my vehicle it will crank over longer like its is not getting fuel or something else. It will eventually start and when I turn it off quickly it will start up fine or after it is warm it will start up normal. When the vehicle sits for some hours and its cold outside it will have trouble starting again. The battery is fine had it tested and cca are just below what the norm is for the battery. Today the temperature was 52 and the vehicle started up just fine with no hesitation or prolonged start.
Another thing that happens when its cold out is right after you put the vehicle in drive and give it gas to start moving it will chug a couple of times before it will have full power then its fine. This has only been happening in the winter. I didn't have any problems with the chugging in the summer.
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My 01 alero 2.4l has some hesitation at takeoff, i have changed the plugs, boots, and fuel filter, and used fuel system cleaner. What could be causing this?
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I recently got a coolant flush done at the local vw dealer. The engine now runs hot at 200 degrees whereas it was just 160 degrees before. Is this normal for hot weather. Not sure if this is a mistake on the part of the dealer or something conked out opportunistically. A vag com scan shows everything normal. The car has 75 k miles and no other major issues.
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My engine is very slow to warm up when the temp is below 30 degrees. Engine will reach about 170 after about 5 miles. What should I check first? Is it hard to change the thermostat or is there something else that controls the engine temp?
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I am having an interesting sound coming from my rear brakes when I stop from reversing, for example, when I'm pulling out the drive way or a parking space. It kind of sounds like a loud "hum" that lasts a spit second, until the car actually stops. I changed the rear brakes and rotors about 1500 miles ago.
2006 Elantra Limited, 88,XXX miles.
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Just got my truck back (450) from rebuild on tranny. Hooked up my new obd link mx , and was out running the truck for a while. Started running it pretty hard to see what the gauges would do. Noticed the engine coolant was getting up pretty high, usually around 240-250, and then hit 270!!! My temp gauge on the truck wasn't budging , just stayed between hot and cold. Is this normal?? Seemed pretty hot to me but if i just took it easy on the throttle it would average around 230. If i stop and idle it quickly goes down to 206. Look at oil temp and tranny temp also engine coolant temp is bottom middle.
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It got down to the low teens the other day and I thought I would use my engine block heater to see how well it works. But when I got in the oil temp was basically the same as the air temp (it may have been 5-10 degrees warmer but still not above 20*F) after being plugged in for 2-3 hours. Is something wrong here? I would have thought it would have warmed it up or does it not affect the oil temp? If not, what does it warm up?
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For a while my car has been revving while I am at a stop. After stopping the engine revs up to around 2000 rpm, then drops and feels like it is stalling. I brought it to a mechanic an he cleaned the throttle body, but that did nothing. I have been reading around and it sounds like it may be a vacuum leak. Does this sound right? If so what is the best way to find the leak?
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1999 Montana with V6, engine misses sporadically and sometimes dies after stopping.
The missing first became noticeable as it was shifting into 2nd. We took it to our usual mechanic and the computer indicated the camshaft sensor was questionable so replaced it. Cleared things up for a few days and then it started happening again.
Things progressively got worse so we took it to the dealer. They were able to experience the vehicle behaving this way but they said the computer registered no error codes at all.
We've had the injectors cleaned, replaced the spark plugs and wires, and fuel filter. It starts right up in the morning and runs fine but at temperature begins misbehaving again. Warm days are even worse.
It has continued to get worse, increasing in frequency of miss, duration of miss (sometimes it feels like two or three misses in succession), and even to now it dies when we come to a stop. It starts right up but will often die when we put it in gear again.
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I turn the car off and 1 of 3 things happen.
Nothing and everything is fine.
It restarts itself instantly and everything is reset ( radio stations, gas gauge, MPG info )
I shut the door and start to walk away and it restarts ( and everything in 2 )
Just like number 2, everything just resets ( it looses it's memory) but it doesn't restart.
Or I get in the car and nothing happens at all. I sit there push the power button NOTHING, no lights, no panel lights, no response whatsoever. At this point I usually just wait and keep pushing it until it finally starts. Sometimes if I shut the door hard it will come back to life, but not always. My first thought was the 12v battery, but I ran the checker on the car and it seems fine, I also had it checked at and they said that it was fine.
I feel like the car is possessed or something. It doesn't always happen but today it happened 8 times, and that's just effing annoying.
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This miss feels like the engine is stopping not just missing but jerking the car for one cylinder. If I just barely hold speed it is minimized or if I step on it it will stop so I'm pretty sure it's not ignition wires or coils etc.. I would suspect pre-ignition but it's been going on a long time ( a year at least) while I've been half fast trying to figure it out so if it's pre-ignition then this is a hell of a strong engine. I have suspected a slightly sticky injector because of the working fine at more throttle. 1997 3.4DOHC Monte Carlo
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Hyundai makes squeaky noise when starting and stopping engine, starting to move and also when traveling at speed (during gear changing, turning, etc). What causes it? See website below for video with noise:
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Every thing was perfect till suddenly my A/C blows hot air on hot summer days when it over 104 , everything works motor clutch , fans so when its hot outside the motor & clutch turns on & off and wont cool it all started when I refilled my AC, I might of over charge a little. Not sure how to fix.
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