Volvo - S6 :: 2006 - Significant Stutter In Idle For A Minute Or Two
Feb 24, 2015
I have a 2006 S6 2.5T. My car drove fine 3 miles to school drop-off, where I turned off my car. 5 minutes later, I restarted the car but it stuttered significantly in idle for a minute or two.
It drove fine but within a mile I noticed a yellow check engine light and green engine system service required. Haven't had this problem previously. Some background, that might be not be important:
- I recently had a 75k service and have driven approx 500 miles since.
- The car was not driven for 1 week until yesterday, when I drove ~6 miles.
- I noticed my cruise control was on, or at least the indicator was ... I certainly didn't turn on cruise control purposely.
- Temperature approx 45 degrees, no rain
Is this something I need to see my mechanic about urgently? I need to drive 50 miles later today.
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Just changed second timing belt on my Accent. When starting it up afterwards it stuttered then started up. Ran fine for 10 minutes parked it and went inside. Came out 10 minutes later and same thing stuttered to start but it did second time. CEL came on P0016. I know what the code is after looking it up, but I'm sure that the timing belt is set on TDC. Could it really be the camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor? Didn't go anywhere near it when changing the belt.
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I have noticed thru the cold months after I start my 2001 F250 7.3L 4X4 after it sits about a minute "warming up" that it goes into a high idle. The high idle will stop once I press the brakes. Is this normal?
I think this is a unrelated issue, but just started over the weekend. Was riding home, and pressed my brakes and the pedal moved almost to the floor. Not normal conditions for my truck. Usually the pedal is very stiff. I have noticed that my power steering pump has had a hum for months. I changed the fluid (ATF Mercon) within the last 6k miles and that calmed it down a bit.
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2010 with 85k miles.
My car will randomly seem to stutter, almost like a very quick cut of power or skip, sometimes multiple times in a row. I feel like it may be the clutch slipping. It happens only at lower rpms (that I've noticed), and in any gear. When it skips, I don't see the tach jump at all and I have no cel. Are there any tests i can do? The car will move from a full stop to rolling just under the power of idle, I don't know if that means anything.
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As the topic says, I get a slight stutter in the car when I'm say parking into a parking spot. As I get closer to 0 mph i feel the car kinda jerk a little bit.
It's done this since we bought it off a used car lot, and I figured it was the tranny fluid being burned or low. I did a drain/fill twice over the last weekend, and noticed while it has worked forthe issue, it's not fully rectified.
I also notice that 60-80% of the time when LIGHTLY accelerating, going from 1st to 2nd is kinda rough. If i floor it, it's actually pretty smooth.
It doesn't feel like anything "BAD" is happening - no grinding, doesn't feel like slippage...
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My father has an 05/06 4cyl Sonata automatic that he keeps in good shape. They commuted a fair distance before they retired last year, so the car has around 70k miles on it. He'd mentioned to me a few months back that it had a bit of a transmission hesitation when cruising at a steady 75-85km/h. I'd forgotten about it until I drove the car the other day...
What happens is that after cruising for around ten minutes at steady speed, the transmission begins to 'stutter'. It's not any huge event, but it's almost as if the engine was misfiring, which is the feeling you get. A small stuttering as power drops for a few tenths of a second, then comes back, then drops again, repeatedly. What he tells me he does to get away from this is to decelerate to a lower speed and hold there(~70km/h or lower) or repeatedly accelerate and decelerate gently from 75km/h to 85km/h. Both of these worked. I also found a third solution, that if you move the gear selector from 'D' to the 'manual shift' mode (it usually goes to '4' in these circumstances) the problem disappears and the car drives fine. Regular upshifts and downshifts are fine in both automatic and manual modes, and the fluid level is normal.
What burns me is that he'd taken the car in for servicing before the end of his regular warranty period and was told, "Oh, that's normal. They ALL do that. It's just the computer trying to re-learn how you drive." I can't STAND how dealer techs try to take advantage of people like this. Yes, the ECUs self-learn and yes there can be dramatic issues when a new ECU or transmission or whatnot is installed until it happens, but this kind of thing doesn't happen 'out of the blue'! I told him to take it back and put the screws to 'em that they should fix it under warranty since that's when the problem was reported. Otherwise, push them for a really good deal on a new Sonata Turbo...
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So at cold start, my my car squeals but once I drive for a mile, it goes away. I think it is the belt. How can I test it to see.
As well, seems like it runs a little rough right now when I am sitting idle at a stop light. Could the belt be causing this?
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When I turn the A/C on for the first time everything is o.k. Say I drive to the store, park in the sun, come out 20 minutes later, start the car, turn on the A/C, and for the first minute or so the air blowing out smells rank. What gives?
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I am having issues with a 2006 Gen II Prius that just approached 120K miles. When going down a hill at approx. 35-40mph, the engine jerks when downshifting or when coasting.
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I've checked any and all fuses under the hood and all seem fine (although I've never seen the type with the two little "balls" but they seem to by fine also) My question concerns the timing belt. If I have spark and fuel pressure, how do I check for a bad timing belt ? I looked in through the oil cap filler for cam lobes but can't see past what looks like an oil "spout" part at the filler. Also, if the belt is gone would it bend the valves on this motor ? If the belt has stripped teeth and screws the timing I should still get some sort of very rough firing in a cylinder or two, shouldn't I ?
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