Volvo S40 :: 2000 Starts Up / Run Fine But Won't Idle
Aug 9, 2011
I have a 2000 volvo S40 19T, it starts up, and will run just fine if you give it any amount of gas, but it just wont idle. I unplugged the MAF sensor and it ran the same. I then took the IAC valve off and put a towel over the port (To let some gas in but not completely shut it off) It runs GREAT like that! I kept the IAC plugged in and the towel over the port, started her up and put a lot of pressure on the towel to cut of all air, the car idle went really really low and then it shut off. Now since the car knows it is stalling, and it needs more air I should be able to see the IAC opening and closing (Remember it is plugged in, but in my hand), it didn't move at all!
I have run the car with my towel over the IAC ports and chased all around the intake manifold and other intake duct work with carb cleaner to try and fine vacuum leaks to no avail. I even did the towel trick with a multimeter hooked up to the wires that plug into the IAC valve, it is getting a small amount of voltage, say 2 to 3 volts, but the new valve still won't open, and I have yet to confirm that the current changes with idle fluctuations when I press on the towel.
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A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
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I'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
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The system is charged, the fan looks working, but the a/c works well only when the cars is moving. What is it?
We think it works well if the "rear ac" is on, but that's not normal anyway.
The system is charged, a autozone tester say overloaded but the gauge of a technician says is ok, then who knows. The fan is working and the car never goes overheat, then I guess that fan is working good.
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I've been having some issues with my mk4 R32. Right now i'm leaning toward changing the fuel pump and filter but i want to be sure before i do.....
Problem: I've been daily driving my r32 to work for the past couple weeks and about once a week it will start, idle for a couple seconds and then just bog out and die. no codes, just idle, then chugging and dying. it will fire with some starter fluid and will sometimes hold a very sickly idle but most the time will just run the starter fluid out. the weird thing is is that it's intermittent and will happen randomly and if i leave it overnight or sitting for a couple hours it will fire up like nothing was wrong. i just wanted some input on what it might be before i replace the pump. i have already done the relay so its not that.... the only code that it has ever thrown while i have owned it was for the intake changeover valve (N156) which i cleared and it hasnt yet to come up again.....
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It is very cold here today about 10F. I started my 2009 Corolla about half hour ago just to make sure it would start. Started fine let it run at fast idle for awhile and shut it off. Went back out to start it again to head out and it will only run very briefly, maybe 1 second or so and then cuts off. It will continue to do that but will start and run normally. I tried for about 10 minutes but didn't want to run down the battery. I hope it is just the cold weather.
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Having some problems with my 92 Nissan NX2000. i just finished changing the clutch on the car now its acting horrible.
When i start the car, it will run decent for like 2 or 3 seconds then the idle drops down till it almost dies, catches itself, idle goes up to about 500 were it will pulse around for a few seconds until it dies. If i rev it it will stay running, kept it running for about 2 mins. but as soon as i let off it will pulse at 500 until it dies
After i changed the clutch it started up fine, it ran great for about 20 seconds before it just died. when i started it after is when the problem arose.
I took a video of the car running, which can be seen here. [URL] .... (It has never caught itself like that before and jumped up to 1000 rpms before. It normally will die at that point)
The video is really quiet, not sure what happened there. if need be i can get a video of the engine bay so its louder, was mainly focused on the RPMs.
Here's a few things i tried: Checked fuses, Changed spark plug wires, made sure they were all seated good, MAF wires were rubbed a bit so i cut the MAF pigtail off one of my other sentras and soldered it on,Changed to a good battery, Changed fuel filter, Added more gas (in cause gauge is broken), Made sure all connectors are plugged in, Checked around for vacuum leaks, found that one of the large hoses coming off the intake going to the engine had separated so i plugged them back in and nothing.
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My 2000 Toyota MR2 started to act up a bit lately.
I noticed that the car cranks fine, but turns over very weak. almost seems like it barely starts. This happens ONLY when the car is already warmed up. This does not happen when car is starting from cold start. Like, starting first time in the morning is fine, but after 10 minutes of driving, then turned off, the subsequent starts are weak as a fart from a butterfly. But it does start, and when it does... it seems to drive okay.
Now, I've been hearing it can be leaky fuel injectors, or... Mass Air Flow sensor, .. or .... bad fuel pressure..(which may be part of leaky injectors?)
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Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
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2000 f350 CCLB SRW 176,000. I have a touchy accelerator. About two weeks ago the CEL came on and it wouldn't do anything but idle for about 20-30 sec then fine. Then it got a little worse. I disconnected the two harnesses on the accelerator pedal and sprayed them with electrical cleaner. Put it back together and it seemed to be ok. Today the pedal is real sensitive. Sometimes bogging down other times accelerating real high even tho my foot is pretty consistent and gradually accelerating. No CEL tho. Do you think I am in for a new pedal assembly? Could it be something else? UVCH?
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Cold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
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Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
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I have a 2000 Ford-F250, V10, 6.8 liter Gas. The issue is that when I try to start the vehicle it will start, but then start to idle real low and then die. If I try to restart sometime it will and sometimes you have to let it sit. I can also pump the gas and it will sometimes start.
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.I have an 06 Rabbit and the clutch is not engaging. I woke up one morning to go to work and the car starts fine but won't go into gear. If i jam it in it just stalls out. I know the clutch itself is good since it was running perfect but just now wont engage.
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Starts up fine but the car does not move. Car also has loud whine on cold starts coming out of driver side fender. It will also whine above 2000 rpm even after sitting out in the sun but goes away after driving. The car is at my parent's place and will be able to look at it later today..
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I have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
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I purchased a 1996 850r wagon about a year ago, she has some minor issues and most have been fixed but on my way home the shift arrow started flashing as well as the winter drive light, shut the car off at the store with the intention of looking at it when I got home... car will not start now... cranks over fine but wont light... I dont have access to a reader until next week when it gets returned to me...
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I have a 99 jimmy replaced rotary button, cap, plugs, wires. The truck doesn't seem to run right. It idles fine but when in load it starts to sputter a bit. Going down the road between 2000 and 2500 rpms the tach jumps a bit. Now if I put it to the floor the truck runs out fine.
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I have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
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Yesterday I went out in the AM, got in car, depressed the brake, and pushed the start button. I heard normal electrical sounds, then the red triangle of death came on, and it stopped it usual start up sounds, and nothing happened. I could not do anything. I couldn't take it out of park, couldn't push start button again. The electrical system was on cause a bunch of the lights in the dash were lit ( the only one i remember that was lit was the brake word in the dash, but there were others) I sat there a few minutes trying to push the start button or get it to shut off somehow, and eventually it all just shut off.
I depressed the brake and pushed the start button again and it started up just fine, and off to work I went. It started up fine on my way home from work, and running errands after work.
Then this morning - same thing! First time, no start, and the red triangle of death came on. I let off the brake and just sat there hoping that like yesterday it would eventually shut off and I could try again. The only difference today was that on the display monitor a warning notice came up it said something like: Caution: Problem with Transmission "P" brake system. Park car on flat surface, and fully apply the parking brake. When this happens though, I cannot event put the car in neutral or anything. I continued to sit there about 4 minutes, then everything shut off, and I started the car right up like normal. and off to work I went.
What could be my issue?? My driveway in on an incline, would this have anything with it not starting?
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I am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
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