Volvo :: Reduced Engine Performance Warning Appeared
Feb 23, 2008
2004 S60 Suddenly lost a lot of power while driving (non-highway) and the Reduced Engine Performance" warning appeared. Depressing the gas pedal gave it only minimal power and the engine would not shift. Even in park, depressing the gas pedal would not rev the engine. Turning the car off and on produced the same warning message.
After overnight inactivity, the car started fine, but the Engine Service Required warning light was on. The car was towed and inspected at a Volvo service facility.
The reduction in engine performance could not be duplicated. A computer upgrade was performed and the Service Engine light cleared. They could not find anything else and said if it happened again to bring it in.
I believe this is a safety issue, since losing power mid road can be dangerous on the highway.
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While my wife was re-parking my 2007 S60 this morning (currently at 73,143 miles), the error message "Reduced engine performance" came up.
She had switched-off the engine before calling me on the phone to report it, else i would have told her to rev the engine to see how far the rpm gauge could go.
While checking through the error on google, noticed there were several complaints on this in the past but could not see any inferences on what was done to resolve this except for guys who mentioned repeated visit to dealership.
When she switched-on the engine again, the error message didn't come up and she could rev the engine up to 6500rpm, i intend using the car for a long journey next week and do not want any breakdowns.
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I have 2 70's trucks, one with a 360 and one with a 390. Which I don't think makes any difference. The problem is, I experienced poor operation in that after driving for a while engine showed symptoms of reduced performance and stalling and shortly stalling all together. It would not restart even after changing fuel filters and checking pressure. It has a two barrel holley. I took the top off the carb to check for debris in the jets. What I found was a clear jelly like substance. I pulled it out and set it in the open air. After a few minutes it evaporated. I concluded it was something like alcohol created by the vacuum in the carb. After that the truck ran fine until it happened again a few days later. Always after sitting it would restart. When it did not I found the substance in the carb. Now I have the same problem with the other truck. It sounds like a few of the cylinders are starving for fuel and the carb is all but new with twin fuel filters. Ignition is fine on both trucks after hooking up the scope. What is this crap and how to get rid of it?
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I have a 2003 Volvo XC70 with 87K miles on it. I have kept it serviced. For the last few years I have had an intermittent problem with the engine light coming on saying I am having engine performance problems, that I can (sometimes) alleviate by tightening the gas cap. I make a point of tightening the cap til it clicks when I fill up, so I don't know why this happens. Also, sometimes it happens and I can feel the engine slowing down.
It tends to happen more on very hot days when it has been sitting outside of my office building in the sun all day (there is no shade to park). I have a 10 minute ride home and by the time I am 5 minutes into the drive the light comes on. When I get home I pop the fuel lid and tighten the gas cap (even though it feels plenty tight) and by the next morning the light is often off . My dealer has no idea what is going on, but there is something wrong.
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I have a 2004 Saturn VUE, 3.5 L, V6 (212 CI), AWD, with 164,000 miles that I purchased used in Michigan from a GM Dealer about a year back.
The air condition on this VUE works great as long as the vehicle is moving on the road. When in idle and parked, the cooling performance appear to get reduced and soon it will blow not so cold air until the vehicle start to move and gradually the performance will get better and perform well. How did you get it resolved?
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This morning on my way to work my 2006 2.5T XC90 engine lost major horsepower. I barely could creep ahead once the traffic light turned green. The exclamation point on the dash was lit and the error message said "Engine performance affected". I sputtered to the curb and put the vehicle in park. I depressed the gas pedal several times all the way to the floor with little reaction in engine rpms. I then shut off the engine and restarted. After this the warning lights went out and the engine ran fine. The outside temperature was -7F and my vehicle had been running for about 5 minutes.
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I have a 2010 6.4L turbo diesel. Without a trailer on a mtn incline I have no issues. She will fly up the hill and she is quiet when I'm not pulling the 10,000 Lb trailer. When pulling the trailer, I have a loud howling noise and reduced performance. I had it at the Dealership and I had them check the engine/turbo and they found no problems? I asked if they tested under load and they said yes?? Someone suggested that the "Waste gate valve" was defective.
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This has happened to me twice now, 2 weeks between occurrences:
Driving to work, about 10 minutes into the trip - traction control light comes on, "Reduced engine power" message appears on DIC, and check engine light comes on.
The car is an '08 Prix, no charger, with 51K on it. This is actually the first trouble I've had with the car since it left the dealer lot.
I pull over, turn car off. Turn back on - traction light goes out, and engine is running at full power. The check engine light remains on for about 5 starts/stops then goes away.
I haven't had the engine scanned yet. The only thread here I could find recommended replacing the throttle body. The person decided to clean the throttle body, and that was the last post.
I was thinking of removing the individual electronic components from the TB and cleaning them and the area around them in the TB. (I have the sensor-safe cleaner for TB's).
I don't think this error condition would be a warranty issue, but I'm not sure. It's a MAJOR hassle for me to get the car to the dealer.
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I have seen this pop up on the truck I think 3 times now over the first 4000 miles on the truck.
Usually it's when I'm on the highway around 70mph or so.
It comes on for a few seconds, then goes away. I do have an exhaust / tune on the car.
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Getting reduced engine power warning with no other lights on the dash and what is probably causing it. The truck is a 14 f450 cab and chassis model. I had just had it to the dealer for this problem and the check engine light was on and the said there were two sensors going bad on the exhaust so they changed them out and sent me on my way. Well after driving the truck around all day and not one issue it had just decided to set the rep warning again but did not set off any lights...
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Reduced Engine Power warning and fuel leak? While towing our 37 Fiver uphill a couple of days ago, the warning popped up along with the CEL. Indeed, the truck did lose a tremendous amount of power. When I found a safe place to stop, the diesel smell was terrible. Further inspection revealed that fuel was dripping down the side of the engine from somewhere above the oil filter. I limped along another 15 miles to the campground and unloaded the 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel and brought the truck in to the dealer this morning. They aren't giving many details of their findings thus far. They say that they've talked to Ford engineers and that they'll have to put a dye into the fuel to detect the origin of the leak. They suspect the high pressure fuel pump, but by the time they remove enough "stuff" to get to the pump, they can't run the engine to witness the leak. This is my first Ford in 30 years behind the wheel and my first diesel. After 8k miles on the truck.....
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I just had my first fuel filter change (about 9,000 miles). After the shop changed both fuel filters with factory Ford ones, a check engine light came on and a "low fuel pressure" warning, along with a "reduced engine power" warning. It also stalls a lot and takes a long time to restart.
Obviously, they didn't do it right. I suppose there is air in the lines or something didn't go back together correctly.
My '06 seemed to purge itself, but this truck obviously won't. It is not even driveable to get it back to the station, to see if they can correct the problem.
The thing is, I watched them do it, so if someone can ask me the right questions as far as what I saw, maybe I can lick the issue in the driveway myself.
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I was working on my shifter interlock and got a text message that says " gear selector reduced function" fixed the problem but cannot clear the text tried to clear with my code scanner no avail....
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Yesterday the dreaded "car too low" warning appeared. I got out, saw the front end was low and could hear (i think) the sound of air hissing. had it towed to the dealer and am cursing myself for no extended warranty. Sure hope it's only one strut (tow driver said both front sides were low) and that vw will pick up the tab for non failing struts and the controller.
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My '04 with 47K on the clock just announced 'Level Workshop'. The warning does not come on right away and takes several minutes to re appear after the car has been turned off and restarted. The car is level, the ride height adjustment functions perfectly, the damping selection functions as before and the jacking control is working the way it is supposed to.
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Tonight I was driving my 2010 Type 2 Prius. I had been driving for about 6 miles in 85 degree heat (after the car was parked all day at work) on the freeway at 60mph when the "check hybrid system" warning came on and my speed reduced to about 40. I pulled over and called a tow truck. After I was towed to a dealer about 25 miles away, the car started up without the "check hybrid system" light coming on. However, the check engine light did come on. My car is low mileage with only 31,000 miles on it.
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A yellow key symbol appeared atop the speedometer. I searched the manual and found no reference to this. I assume this to mean the battery may be low in my key fob. Am I correct or does this mean something else?
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I have a 2005 Prius with 240,000 miles. About 4 months ago the triangle warning symbol appeared. A friend and I decided to pull the big battery out of the car and find the bad cells. We did that, replace two and the car worked fine for 4 months. The triangle warning has returned. We have done several things but the triangle remains. We pulled the big battery out and checked all of the cells. We replaced one that was probably OK. The latest reading was 8 volts on cells all but one at 7.9. We cleaned all of the bus contacts. We went into the maintenance mode on the MFD and found the aux battery to be 12.6 volts and under load it dropped to 11.8 with the lights on.
The aux battery went up to 14.1 volts with the car on. The inverter cooling fluid has movement and there is a slight humming which I believe to be the inverter pump running. The inverter fluid was topped off. The MFD showed the battery bars start at about three fourths full, drop down to one bar. With the engine running the battery bars climbed to the top purple. The engine turned off and the bars continued to climb to all green. All of this occurred in about 3 minutes while the car was parked. There were codes on the MFD while in maintenance mode. I understand that these codes are for the navigation system and the audio system.
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Today I had the joy of covering 200+ miles on my W12 today. While I was out and about there were 3-4 times I went around a right hand turn somewhat quickly and a "check please lights" warning appeared on the instrument cluster. At the end of the day I inspected the exterior lights with all working or so it seems. I found it odd that this only appeared during sharp turns to the right.
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Car is a 2000 Passat Wagon 1.8T ATW FWD
I get the P1128 code and Emissions Workshop warning most of the year, then it cycles off in the summer. It went off yesterday, back on today, and I imagine it will go off again for weeks/months as the weather heats up.
Things I've tried so far:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced MAF wiring harness
Replaced front 02 sensor
Replaced air filter
Replaced cracked vacuum tubes, at least those accessible from the top. Some of the hidden lengths theoretically could be at issue but a mechanic said they were ok.
What I've not replaced is the secondary air pump. (Mechanic told me it's dry and checks okay.)
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Warning light appeared, pressure adjusted to 32 psig on all four tires, but light will not go out, even after several miles of driving. Are the tire valve stem Caps special for this feature? I have lost one and replaced it with another type I had.
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