My radiator fan recently started coming on while in reverse. The weird thing is when it's in park it sounds like the fan is trying to come on but never does. It sounds like the fan just keeps getting turned on and off very very rapidly. When I put it in reverse it just turns on, in neutral and drive it's off. This only happens when I've been driving for at least a few mins.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 1997 Volvo 850 and a week ago it began leaking coolant. Currently I am having to refill the coolant every three days.
I have attached two pics. One is a pic of where the coolant pools and the other is a pic of where I am pretty sure the coolant is leaking.
The leak appears to be coming from the connection point at the top driver side of the radiator. I know there is a hose on the same side at the bottom of the radiator directly below the one in the picture. At first I thought that was the source of the leak but later found it was just run off from the leak above.
Does this a common and fixable leak? Or if it is likely an expensive fix? Any other troubleshooting I can do on my end or do I need to take it to a dealer to find out what is going on?
Radiator_Leak.jpg ( 765.54K )
Leak.jpg ( 1.3MB )
My elderly mother brought a used 2006 Volvo SR60, in 2008. Later she discovered that the radiator light/coolant would blink on in the car. The Coolant was low. She took the car to To Mckevitt Volvo here in the Bay Area. The car was under warranty. McKevitt replaced the radiator
Apparently she kept having problems with the coolant system in the car. She took the car to another car repair place (Ackerman) and they detected a tiny crack in the radiator, but they said it wasn't enough of a leak to cause the leak. Then they suggested replacing the thermostat of the car. Apparently, this is a real costly procedure costing hundreds of dollars. She opted not to do this..
Recently she took the car back to McKevitt Volvo, still because of the coolant problems, the car is no longer under warranty,, Mckevitt held the car for a couple of days, after an inspection for leaks, they told her they could not find any leak, although they cleaned up the car, and didn't charge her for their services.
So now she's paying on a newer model car, , that leaks coolant, but no one knows where....
Does she still have any recourse, what should she do? She's an older person in her 60's so she needs her car and doesn't need a blown head gasket. I suggested, trying one of those "over_the_counter_" radiator, coolant system seal, to stop any leak, are these safe to use?
Recently I started leaking coolant on the driver side area to the right of the engine:
I am assuming I need to replace some part/tubing that has a leak in it, but I am not sure what any of these things are called. How to identify what leaking part here is?
My 2001 S80 Volvo (91,000 miles) has a problem--when I put it in reverse, apply the gas, the car will not move. Sometimes if I shift back to park and then back to reverse, the car moves, but with a clunking sound and it feels as if the car just went over a small rock. At other times it will not move at all. I had a new transmission put in November and a week ago the car would not move out of my garage. A day later when I tried to reverse out of the garage, it did so without any noise or hesitation. The repair shop kept it again for 4 days, ran another bunch of tests and could find nothing. The car drives just fine on the road--still has great acceleration. The problem is driving me nuts--I am afraid to take it out at times as I don't know when it might not reverse. what is wrong with this car?
View 4 RepliesOn my car which never overheated but one day the overflow for the radiator started gurgling and I turned off the car fast and brought to our mechanic and he advised that it was head gasket after changing hoses and water pump. when I first realized the gurgling and shut off the car and never ran it again did i save the engine and replacing the head gasket is a good thing. also did I save the head from warping by my actions?
View 13 RepliesOver the last few weeks, I'd been smelling something. Today, I realized it must have been coolant. Today, my 225,000 mile, 2.3L 4cyl 5spd 1990 Camry started blowing smoke. When I parked, and gingerly touched the radiator, it was cool -- and empty. When I squeezed the upper hose, it crackled as if very dry. I drove the car about a mile and parked it at home.
When it cooled, I confirmed the radiator is empty -- except for a lot of reddish crud. A hint of the same reddish color on other engine parts MAY be from coolant spraying under the hood, but I'm not sure.
I couldn't tell from spots on the garage floor whether the coolant had leaked out there or not.
How should I proceed from here to address ... a) the leak, and b) any other damage caused by running the car dry?
The transmission line running under the radiator has started to leak. I took a piece of rubber trans. hose and buy passed the cooler. How much does the cooler support the trans. temperature. I don't tow with the truck. And for the most part drive it around 14 to 20 miles one way to work. Is this something I need to replace now or after the temperature hits the 80s.
View 5 RepliesThis is strange, Had the truck for about 3000mi bought it at 147k now has 150... Any way it runs great but the radiator started leaking from the seam close to where the bottom hose is. I have since changed the radiator about a week ago 500mi a week work truck.
Now it seems to be leaking from the very same area, what I mean is the area around the hose is dry but just up the seam a bit it barely leaks, and mainly after the truck cools off at night. These radiators seem extremely low quality, is there a substitute higher quality.
Also of note mine is the 1" core, I was told there are others but they will not fit, I must agree it seems nothing else would fit due to space constraints. These radiators just kinda sit in a cradle and aren't really under any stress that I can tell so it doesn't seem as though that would be the cause.
Also of note the shop where I bought the new one took it out of the sealed box and tank pressure tested it as they do for all new sales, no leaks, I have not pulled it back out yet cause I would like to get some thing less flimsy if it exists.
Having my beloved v70 XC SE towed to mechanic today. Suddenly reverse gear was non functioning. No choice. Assume it's time for gear box replacement (whatever that is). Only 133K miles on the vehicle and I LOVE this car. Is it worth the cost to fix transmission or should I just donate or try to sell the vehicle?
View 2 RepliesI just had a problem come up a few weeks ago where the check lights indicator comes on. We've narrowed down the problem to the white reverse lights not coming on when the car is in reverse.
I had my Phaeton mechanic look at it and he could not find the problem although apparently there is a resistance difference between the brake lights and reverse lights leading him to believe it may be the bulb holders (they are corroded).
The reverse lights connect to many modules so it could be anything.
Could this be from bad gas? I put a bottle of Gum out fuel system cleaner in the tank was almost full and the directions say to put it in when almost empty and then fill for best results. My son bought gas at the same place I did and his car started having idle problems at about the same time my problems started (sometimes his engine races, sometimes normal, sometimes so slow it stalls out).
My car is a 98 Volvo S70
I have a V40 with 122,000 miles. About 4 to 5 years ago it started to sporadically drop subtly the RPM. It does this no matter the weather, air on or off, etc. the dealer about 2 years ago changed the idle sensor. The problem still exists today. This does not affect the performance of the car. I bought the car new, the transmission was replaced about a year and a half after I bought the car.
View 3 RepliesMy dodge spirit has 80,000 miles on it. i love this little car, however, yesterday for some reason while driving my radiator reservoir started to overflow. I didn't notice at the time, but when i got home there was water in the engine compartment and it was obvious that it had come from the reservoir. This morning I went out to drive the car and at first the engine shook a little but then started running smoothly, when I backed out i noticed a rather large cloud of white smoke (water in the engine) I immediately turned off the car. I have a feeling I will need to rebuild this car's engine. What I should expect to pay for this repair?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 S60. Other day my wife was driving when the driver's seat started moving all by itself - moved all the way forward and stopped which was very frightening while you are doing 110 kmh! Nothing caught in the switches on the side, switches were not wet (shorting). I took it out later but nothing happened until I got out, locked the door and watched as the seat started to move and again did not stop until it was all the way forward! Lucky I wasn't driving - I'm 6'3" and it would have been very uncomfortable. I moved it back, locked 'er up and by the time I got back to the car 30 minutes late, it had happened all over again.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
View 2 RepliesI have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:
1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.
2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;
car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.
4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.
5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.
6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car
putts a little; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle
lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.
The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:
-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plug Wires
-Spark Plugs
-Distributor Cap (Initially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
-Rotor Button
-Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
-K&N Air Filter
-Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
-Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Gauge Temperature Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-All Vacuum Hoses
-All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Oxygen Sensor
-Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
-Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
-Idle Air Control Valve
-Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
-Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
-Battery
-Radio Suppression Relay
-Throttle Position Sensor
-Fuel Filter
-Timing Belt and Tensioner
-Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)
The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:
1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after
3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning
4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed
5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after
6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional
7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning
8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning
9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM
10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed
11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system
12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation
13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues
14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation
15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected
16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing
17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing
18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail
The following parts have not been changed yet:
-Charcoal Box
-MAF Sensor (No Codes)
-EGR (No Codes)
-EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
-Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
-Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)
Other Issues : Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now
This is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
View 13 Replies2001 V70 Volvo Wagon 114k miles... The following in order has been done so far in the last 3 months mostly because the mechanic who did everything besides the mounts takes forever.
Rotors & pads
Replaced axle shaft
Oil & new air filter
Replaced steering wheel pump #1 - with new liquids
Replaced steering wheel pump #1 with #2
Replaced steering wheel pump #2 with #3
Supposedly checked the rack & pinion
New hoses for the steering wheel pump
Alternator replaced
All front, right and rear engine mounts have been replaced
I am about to literally come out of my skin with the subtle vibration that comes through the steering wheel, seat and floor on the drivers side. When I put my hand on the shifter I don't feel the vibration nor when riding on the passengers side. I have to stay that the car sounds like an old Singer sewing machine too, not the smooth engine sound that I had before all the repair work. There is also a very slight lag when starting off and a grown that comes from under the dash to the right of the steering wheel when in reverse and turning. My regular volvo mechanic says that the car is worn but I should keep it anyway.
We were driving last weekend in a heavy rain storm when our 2004 XC70 started making a loud siren noise. The noise increased with acceleration. We pulled off the road, turned the car off. When restarted the sound was gone, but then returned again when driving in heavy rain. Any clues as to what is causing this noise and if it needs attention?
View 21 RepliesWhen I put my car (04 s60 2.5t) in reverse it hesitate, then when I press the pedal it roll back with a loud clunk noise. But if I put the car in drive before putting it in reverse everything goes smoothly.
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