I can see no sign of oil leakage or oil burning. The car runs great, about 159M miles. Yet, it goes through 4 qts of oil every 1000 miles. If you don't check it frequently, it suddenly is 'dry' and takes several quarts to bring back on the stick to full. There is a little puff when first starting of light smoke, then nothing out of the ordinary.
View 1 RepliesI have a loss of coolant, and I can smell it as I drive. I looked under the car today every hose is dry to the cooling system, so I thought look where the heater core is, everything is dry there too. No sign of Head gasket leak either. I just can still smell it, and still losing some but it is very little. What should I look for next?
View 2 RepliesI've had to replace my radiator twice due to it overheating. I am noticing coolant level going down but I'm not seeing any signs of an external leak. My garage is saying it is probably internal and going into the engine. Says I probably have to replace the head gasket but that will be very expensive.
Could I get some further feedback on what it could be and what else I could do? I am also getting a check engine light on a "lean mixture" issue. Not sure if they are related.
My 2005 Prius has 281,000 miles and is burning oil. No smoke or leakage just have to add oil between oil changes. I drive about 30,000 miles per year with my job. Car is paid for and I love not having a car payment, but fear this may be the beginning of the end.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Honda Odyssey. A few day ago I noticed a weird smell, sort of like burning chemicals, only after driving the 25 miles to work and later that day the same. Drove it over the weekend around town with no problems. Just to be safe, took it to my trusted local mechanic on Monday...he could find no problems except black walnut debris from critters. Drove it to work Tuesday, no problems there. On way home at stop sign, hit the gas to go forward and car wouldn't go forward. Luckily I was going downhill and could pull over.
Tow truck driver was able to drive it up flatbed and brought it to shop. Mechanic said transmission fluid was dark and flush/changed it three times. It is driving absolutely fine with no problems(to the surprise of my mechanic) though mechanic said transmission life may be limited. I am now afraid to drive my car as I commute to work and have three children. It has 106,000 miles and always has been maintained on schedule. The transmission fluid was flushed last year for the first time at around 95,000 miles as recommended by mechanic.
So, whenever I park the car after a trip it always leaks fluid when the A/C was on which I know is normal but now it seems to leak a lot more and I'm wondering if that's where all my coolant goes. Where exactly does it drip from from the A/C? Is that somewhere in the cowl?
View 8 RepliesAttached 2 images indicating where it leaks. This does not appear to be only leak but first thing first.
How to cure this. There is a number of stop-leak products out in the market: will they fix? Or should I change some rubber parts?
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Been smelling gas in a 02 vovlo s80. At first, I thought I had tracked it in with from the pump with my shoes. But after washing things up, a week has gone by and the smell persists. I am concerned there may be a leak somewhere. Not sure here. What do you think it could be?
View 4 RepliesI have an 03 Explorer with the 4.0 engine. There is a strong smell of coolant and the reservoir does go down slightly once a week or so. There is No Leak whatsoever that I see, I have checked under the hood, under the vehicle, under the dash, everywhere...nothing. Where is the coolant going? This seems to be a common problem, I work at a quick lube and almost all of these explorers are low on coolant when they come in.
View 2 RepliesI have a burning smell coming from the grill? noticed it yesterday while driving. 110,000 miles + volvo s60. no engine lights, no smoke, temp. gauge is not high.
View 8 RepliesOver the last 6 months I've have to add at least a couple quarts of oil between oil changes but I can't figure out where it's going. it's not burning oil (as far as I can tell) nor can I detect any leaks. I thought it might be a head gasket but I would have assumed I would see some oil residue around the crank case but it looks relatively clean. the car has 174K miles and is otherwise in good running condition. Why I can to add so much oil? I'm also using high-mileage oil for each oil change.
View 4 RepliesI have a very serious engine problem with my 1995 Volvo (150K). It has been burning oil for two years and given the recession I have been buying oil and continue filling it. I recently took it in to find out what it would take to make it right. I was informed that it needed at minimum to rework the head (valve job , etc) but given the miles (150K) fixing one part of the system might temporarily fix the problem but it will most likely cause oil to start blowing thru the rings. They recommended the total effort (If I do it I do agree with them is the best of course of action). However it is a 4.5K job and the blue book value of the car is less than 3K at this point. At this point I can not afford a recurring car payment for another year. Should I buy cases of oil and limp along (wife's solution) or take the plunge?
View 7 RepliesLast August, with about 76,000 miles on it, the oil light on my xc70 came on when I was making a U-turn. I took the car into the dealer and was told it was down almost 4 quarts. The “cause” was the breather box which was replaced for a substantial amount of money. About 5k miles later the same thing happened. Again I was down over 3 quarts but the breather box was fine. There is no leak and absolutely no indication that oil is burning (no smoke, smell, residue in the tailpipe).
The speculation was that that the oil was somehow vaporizing in a line between the pan and the block. I didn’t buy that.Now after three more visits; I have been bringing the car in every 1k for an oil change and consumption check (the dealer has absorbed this cost) they have determined it is losing about ½ quart every 1k miles. They have not identified why. All they say is that I can rebuild the engine (new rings and pistons). This is ridiculous! 85k on the car and it needs a new engine. This was a certified pre-owned Volvo with 11k when I bought it and all service has been done by the dealer.
I have a 2001 Kia Sedona mini van with about 148,000 miles on teh 6 cylinder engine. Since about the first of the year I have noticed a slight loss of engine oil over the past 4 months. It appears to be maybe about a quarter of a quart for about every 1000 miles or so. Up until then I had no issue with loss of oil. It is not leaking out that I can see as there are no drip signs on the underneath or ground, I have had no loss of antifreeze so am not sure how or where the oil might be going. My dad said that as some engines age and with this engine being now almost 11 years old with that many miles it wouldn't be out of line that the engine is "burning" the oil. Not sure what he means by that, but what might be a reason/s for the slight loss of oil.
View 8 RepliesI turned on the seat warmer of my 2004 XC70 (bought new) and I smelled a burning electrical/chemical smell, then within moments I felt my leg burning. I turned off the seat warmer and my seat remained scorching. I completed my short drive to drop my son off at school, windows open and left leg off of the seat, and when parked realized that the mechanism had caught fire and cinged a 2" burn mark on my seat as well as puckered the surrounding area of my leather seats. The smell remains to remind me of this very scary drive which could have been simply tragic.
View 5 RepliesWe bought a new 2012 Volvo XC 70 wagon. It only has 6,000 miles on it and the Check oil light has gone on three times. Each time it has required approximately one quart (which the dealer claims is "within specs" for this engine). I believe it satisfies the lemon law criteria in PA since it has been back to the shop three times in less than a year. Should I insist on a replacement or is this "normal" wear for this car.
View 19 RepliesI have a 1992 volvo 940 about a month ago I started noticing a burning smell and it was my brakes, they also make a squeaking sound and I took it to my mechanic upon which they will need to be replaced. Today I notice my battery,brake and system lights all came on and stayed on while I drove about 4 miles. Can something to do with my brakes needing repair?
View 5 RepliesLost coolant after dealer replaced a new fuel pump.
Before I start car, the level of coolant is Max and tank cap is tight. Driving back home and stop engine, the coolant level is still Max. Second day, coolant is lost and tank cap is a little loose. No more coolant loss if leaving it at home without driving. If I topped up the tank, after two days driving, coolant level is lower than MIN.
I did not find any leaks, like fuel tank and passenger's side floor.
Is it possible that tank cap causes this coolant loss?
Recently my old workhorse started coughing and stalling. This isn't consistent at all. I'll be driving and the car will lose power and come back to life. It also stalls at stop signs. Brought to my mechanic and left it for a week with him and he can't figure it out. 1988 Volvo 240 over 200,000....
View 3 RepliesTook my 850 Turbo out on the freeway today, and when I put the pedal to the floor on the onramp there was a very disconcerting loss of power just as the turbo was really kicking in. No issue under mild to medium boost, but when pushed hard there is a short loss of power/hesitation, almost like a backfire, then boosts again, then the same power loss until I back off on the gas. Cannot get full boost without this happening.
View 7 RepliesThe wife was stopped at a light in her 2006 S60 and when the light changed and she accelerated the car stalled and died. It would not start and thus I had it flatbedded back to the house. Id been told at the dealer during a service trip ($$$) that the alternator might be going bad as it was making a whirring noise and was given an estimate to replace it, the serperntine, pulley, etc.. of $1300. At the time it wasnt a driveability problem and being a working stiff I didnt have the 1300 to spend so I decided against doing the work. Thus, when the car stalled I figured it would be the alternator causing the problem and draining the battery.
I recharged the battery overnight figuring I could get the car turned on then remove one of the battery terminals to verify faulty alternator. However, car would not turn over, Id only get what sounded like a click from the starter. Fine, I figured, the alt killed the battery so I went and purchased a new one and installed it. Car would still not start and Id still get the click from what I believe is the starter. Tried the old bang the starter with a hammer and still nothing. Checked the connectors to the starter and all seemed ok.
At this point, the dreaded "my wife seized the engine" thought popped in my head. I then tugged a bit on the serpentine and noticed the crank turn slightly so Im pretty sure she didnt seize the engine. (fingers still crossed on that one).