Volvo :: Motor Seems To Burn Out Spark Plugs - Car Running Rough With No Power
Mar 10, 2013
Motor seems to burn out spark plugs every month. I was using non volvo sparks. I took car to Volvo dealers and repairers who gave car a diagnostic check but nothing showed up. They told me to use Original Volvo Spark Plugs which I did. The Car went great with no problems for about 3 months thinking problem was fixed. Low and behold the same problem came back.
I changed spark plugs again (original Volvo) and car only ran for 10 ks and then ran very very rough with no power. Motor felt like it was running on a few cylinders. It seem this problem happens mostly in hot weather. Motor also heats up but when cooled down runs well again. I intend to buy new rotor Bosch and Distributer cap and if needed coil.
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Nissan altima gle (2000) and for the past 3 weeks it has not gone over 55. The car was running ok before but was idling rough. A mechanic replaced the intake manifold gasket, the MAF sensor and the fan sensor. I decided to change my spark plugs when I noticed the idling was getting worse. The spark plugs had oil on them and now a month after the new ones are burned (like ashy tip, black thread) and dripping oil again. I think is the oil not letting my car accelerate in the highway. I considered changing the valve gasket, cables and cap for the spark plug. A mechanic told me not to bother because the motor is a lost. Is he right?
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I have a '63 Buick Wildcat that has been sitting for 17 years. It has 2 spark plugs stuck in the motor. I got the other 6 out with liquid wrench. The other 2 have been soaking in liquid wrench for 2 weeks and I have been using a 3/8 drive spark plug socket, but still unable to get them out. How to get them out?
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I have a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, and used the spark plugs change DIY sticky and it seemed to go painlessly. However, after the new spark plugs, the car seems to idle rough. It has 95k miles, and I did the following in the same tune-up:
1. Changed Oil
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Changed Spark Plugs
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals
5. Cleaned MAF Sensor
6. Cleaned plugs connecting to ignition coils
I used OEM Toyota plugs, and even called the dealer to see if the gap needed to be set. And they affirmed me that the gap is preset on these plugs.
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Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I changed my spark plugs now I got a miss and rough idle .#2 and 6 seem to be the ones that miss the idle don't change when I unplug the coil , I take coil off and put it next to the motor it sparks ! I put everything 3 plugs and got about 200 miles on them and 3 out of 8 had melt downs and left me on the side of the hwy. I got autolights in it now but it got a miss and rough idle ! Did I not do something right ?
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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I have a Chevrolet Silverado 3500 1 ton diesel truck. The truck will periodically burn out glow plugs. I have changed glows multiple times and used different types. I have changed the glow plug controller and the coolant temperature switch with no change. I have checked all fuses and they are good. Checked voltage and the correct voltage is present. Why this is happening?
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Although my lil' truck (2006 Ranger XLT, 2WD,with 4-cyl / 5spd, and 115K miles) has been running just fine since I bought it about a year & 5K miles ago, I suspected it still had its original spark plugs and I figured I should change them before problems arrived.
As I suspected, the plugs that I took out looked to be original. I measured their gap and they all had excessive plug gaps - around 0.052" gap. I installed the four new AUTOLITE APP104 (double platinum) and checked their gap, and they were a bit tight at 0.042". My book says they should be at 0.044" gap. But I installed them at 0.042 anyway, figuring they'll burn wider in time.
One by one, I smeared a small bit of never-seize on the plug threads & at the plug-to-cyl head tapered edge. I smeared a dab of Dielectric Grease around at the top of the plug to ease the plug wire re-install and hopefully calm any possible arching. The plug wires came off the plugs easy enough and went back on just as easy.
I hit the key and the engine fired right up. It idled rough as expected. However, it continued to idle rough and if I raised the RPM level, it would respond, but still ran rough. It is throwing a 'Check Engine Light' on the dash cluster now - whereas it wasn't prior to the new plugs.
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My 2004 honda accord will not start, there is no power to the spark plugs or to the coils.
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My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
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I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
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My '99 was running rough - coughing/spitting/sputtering when under a load - especially at lower idle/rpms and going up inclines.
Brought to mechanic and he put it on "the scope" which told him the #1 pack was bad. Replaced. Got it back and it ran better, but, then went back to the coughing/sputtering.
Replaced the spark plugs - OEM Motorcrafts. Seemed perfect for a wee bit, now I notice an occasional cough/spit but all in all not bad.
Curious: was it foolish to not replace ALL coil packs at time of plugs or is it ...acceptable to do just the plugs and then come back and do packs if needed.
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I have a 1987 Ford Ranger 2.3L, it's the truck I learned to drive in (stick at 13yo) and the 1st car I crashed too... So now this baby is almost 30 years old and recently had a minor restoration...
Engine was pulled out and all gaskets were changed, spark plugs, wire... All that stuff... It has been running pretty good, however last week a water line broke on the Left side near the spark plugs (if you are looking at the truck)
Since then It has absolutely Zero power. The slightest hill and even when pedal to the floor will lose power. Yesterday went from the start of a hill at 60mph in 4th to 20mph in 2nd because it didn't have the guts to go 1/3 mile uphill... I checked everything I could, and my brother took it to the exhaust guy who made a small hole on the Catalytic Converter and said it was good, but he could tell it was running too rich...
I replaced some of the vacuum lines last night, I found a lose one on the fuel pressure regulator (I think that's what it is, Its towards the engine firewall on top).
Idles beautifully, drives great, no rough shifting, pinging or knocking, no misfires. So that's what has me stumped... Runs great but just no power... Also before water line broke it was running fine with power...
1987 Ford Ranger
2.3L FI
5sp manual, Rwd
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My 740 (1990, B230E, non-turbo) has been running rough at low rpm. Once above 1800 rpm or so it's fine. I've changed the Distributor cap and rotor arm (they were both shot), but the problem persists. I'm thinking injector relay or ignition stage amplifier next, but I don't want to just through parts at it.
The plugs were changed 3 months/1,500 miles ago. The misfire is intermittent.
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First time Volvo owner. Love the 97 850 that I got, but it runs really rough, and I don't know if that's normal for these cars or not. When I say it runs rough, I mean that it vibrates like crazy (not shaking, but vibrating) and it's loud. Every other car I've owned sounds smooth when it's idling or accelerating, but not this one. And I don't mind the noise at all, but the vibrations are a little frustrating.
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I have a 2003 Volvo S40. I just replaced the battery, spark plugs, coils, fuel filter along with a fuel system flush. Because the car was running very rough. It's been 4 days since i got it back from the shop and now my car won't start unless I give it gas. The car won't stay on and it smells like it's running very rich.
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I turned on the seat warmer of my 2004 XC70 (bought new) and I smelled a burning electrical/chemical smell, then within moments I felt my leg burning. I turned off the seat warmer and my seat remained scorching. I completed my short drive to drop my son off at school, windows open and left leg off of the seat, and when parked realized that the mechanism had caught fire and cinged a 2" burn mark on my seat as well as puckered the surrounding area of my leather seats. The smell remains to remind me of this very scary drive which could have been simply tragic.
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I have 07 sscrew with 5.4. 93,000 miles. At start up truck runs perfect. After 20-30 minutes of running motor will start to start running rough at low rpm. Diesel sound. I can rev up and motor clears up and idles fine. Should I replace VCT solenoids? Or phasers? Or both at one time??
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I am having a problem where my spark plugs keep going out. I changed all the plugs, wires and coil pack on my 2001 Windstar and within a few months my van was running on 4 or 5 cylinders instead of 6 and this isn't the first time it has happened.
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I have a 2001 saturn sl 2 and I noticed some oil around all the spark plugs. The engine seems to be loosing oil a little bit as well, about a quart a week. Its not buring it or leaking that I noticed.
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