Volvo :: Low Coolant - Stop Safely Light Comes On For About Two Minutes During Cold Start
Dec 2, 2013
I recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common? 2005 Xc90 2.5t...
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03 xc90 with 83k miles.
Its got the "no oil pressure stop engine safely" light coming on when it gets up to running temps.
I am having my mechanic drop the pan, clean for sludge and replace all the seals and O-rings.
Which O-rings need to be replaced. I read somewhere there are 5, I bought the set along with the volvo sealant but need to give exact instruction to my mechanic on which seals to replace (he is not a volvo guy) and I dont remember which ones.
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My A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
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I have a 2001 Volvo V70. Yesterday I noticed that the low coolant light came on when I tried to start the car, but it went off after a minute or two. I kept an eye on the temperature gauge and didn't see anything amiss. When my wife tried to start the car this morning, the low coolant light came on again, but the car wouldn't start -- it turns over but sputters out after a second or two. I checked the coolant and it was indeed pretty low (should have done it the night before, I realize). So, I'm trying to figure out what's up here -- the car didn't seem to generally overheat, but something has gone wrong. Fuel pump or something similar?
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I own a 1990 Volvo 740 GL. It cut off at a stop light one day and now it will not start. It seems to be a fuel related issue, if I squirt staring fluid into the intake it will start but cuts off immediately. I removed the fuel line that connects to the injectors and no fuel is coming out. I checked both the number 1 and 11 fuses both are fine. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and the fuel pump relay.
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I have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
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On my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
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I have a 2011 F-250 with about 5000 miles. Sunday night, I was driving home and first got the CEL. Then less than 5 miles later, I got the red "Stop Safely Now". Pulled over and the thing just died. Checked the message center and nothing out of the ordinary other than the SSN message. Had to wait about 45 minutes for the tow truck and thought it might cool down. I tried to start it while waiting but got nothing. Battery was good and all electronics worked. Waiting to hear a diagnosis from the dealer.
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Luckily I was sitting in the driveway. Pulled the truck out of the garage. It started fine, idled fine, did not make as much noise as I was expecting but was warmer in the garage than outside. Stopped in front of the garage door to grab a couple things in the garage, jumped back in and it quit before I could get it in gear and roll out. Weird. This is the first time I've ever had to get a tow.
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2011 6.7L company truck that I drive. Couple days ago, got the Stop Safely Now message and CEL. There was noticeable loss in power as well. 10-15 seconds after SSN message, power came back and message went away. I'm assuming the loss of power was limp mode. It happened 2 more times today. Got to the dealer and they wouldn't read the code to tell me whether it was safe to drive, they were just too busy to take 3 minutes and read a code! Got codes read at O'Reilly and came up with the P2033 and P200C. I see where the P2033 may be a failing sensor, and that should be easy enough to confirm. My question specifically is regarding the P200C, Diesel Particulate filter Over Temp. Could this be a bad sensor as well, or could it be plugged causing the P2033?
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I started up the truck. It cranked perfectly as always. Was half way out of the parking lot going give mph and a warning beeping started with a message "stop vehicle safely". I did and the engine died. When I try to crank it it will not turn over at all. No power to engine at all.
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My elderly mother brought a used 2006 Volvo SR60, in 2008. Later she discovered that the radiator light/coolant would blink on in the car. The Coolant was low. She took the car to To Mckevitt Volvo here in the Bay Area. The car was under warranty. McKevitt replaced the radiator
Apparently she kept having problems with the coolant system in the car. She took the car to another car repair place (Ackerman) and they detected a tiny crack in the radiator, but they said it wasn't enough of a leak to cause the leak. Then they suggested replacing the thermostat of the car. Apparently, this is a real costly procedure costing hundreds of dollars. She opted not to do this..
Recently she took the car back to McKevitt Volvo, still because of the coolant problems, the car is no longer under warranty,, Mckevitt held the car for a couple of days, after an inspection for leaks, they told her they could not find any leak, although they cleaned up the car, and didn't charge her for their services.
So now she's paying on a newer model car, , that leaks coolant, but no one knows where....
Does she still have any recourse, what should she do? She's an older person in her 60's so she needs her car and doesn't need a blown head gasket. I suggested, trying one of those "over_the_counter_" radiator, coolant system seal, to stop any leak, are these safe to use?
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After the car has sat for awhile 1-2 hours, when I start it back up the engine coolant temp light comes on and remains on for 1-3 minutes. This happens regardless of the ambient temp outside. It can be 40 degrees up to 80 and it will still come on. This started a few months ago, I have drained and flushed the cooling system, and wondering id this may be an indication that my thermostat is faulty and needs to be changed.
2008 Accent 3 door 159K ....
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It will turn over just fine but it won't start. If we wait almost exactly 10 minutes, it will start fine.
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Here's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
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I have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
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Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
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Xc 90 D5 2.4 2005 diesel, will not start when it's cold (below +5 degrees), If I use the pre heater for 3 min it starts fine.
I have checked the injectors (leak back test). I checked the glow plugs and they all glow red when I turn on the ignition.
No error codes (Volvo has checked)
20131020_163050.jpg ( 2MB )
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My mechanic installed a battery about a year and I have to get my battery charged each time the weather gets cold or snowy. I have had the battery charged 2 times this month.I have had this same problem last year calling motor clubs to charge my battery. My car is snowed in and shovel is stuck in my trunk because it will not open because my car wont start. I do not even know if there is a warrantee on the battery ...it may be a used battery.
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my 2007 3.2 s80, 75 K miles, will not respond to accelerator for the first 1-2 miles after a cold start, then runs fine, no check engine light has shown. Per shop recommendation switched to 92 octane x3tanks, then replaced fuel sensor, neither solved.
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When I start the car after its been sitting for a few hours it takes at least 10 minutes to the ac to start blowing cold air. If it sits for less than an hour cold air comes out right away. Went to the dealer last summer and everything was working to spec, of course...
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