I have a problem with the internal ventilation: the fan works but no air exits through vents whatever the position of the control button. Where can I find a schematic of the ventilation system, I do not know how to disassemble it....
View 3 RepliesHave a problem with the rear air distribution. I can not get it to work. What am I doing wrong?
View 6 RepliesHear a thump when slowing down or coming to complete stop? Thump doesn't happen every time but sounds louder sometimes and doesn't always seem to be in the same area of the ceiling.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 Volvo XC 90 has a severe "thump" in the front end, which is then followed by a very brief (split second) internal (meaning dashboard lights, hi-fi, dome lights, etc) power failure. Initially, the power failure would last only a split second and then car would continue running as normal, and there we no error codes or check engine lights.
But on the last long drive home, the "thump" was harder than usual, and the lights internally completely went out, hazard lights could not be turned on, blinkers could not be switched on, hi-fi went out, etc (though the electric windows would work). I pulled over, and turned the car off and restarted it, and the yellow exclamation point dashboard icon/alert lit up, and a service message flashed referring to the anti-lock brake failure, and that the SRS needed to be checked.
This problem has been occurring for a couple of months, and is very intermittent. Before this last incident, I took it into the dealership, who could not figure it out,. Now that I have an error code, I have it at another dealership, who seems equally mystified and have told me that they don't think the error code of check the SRS is going to fix the problem. The engine thump, followed by electrical failure seems really weird....
These super-hot days our TS had started to develop a very strange problem:
- when you first start the engine the A/C works normally and cold air blows from the front vents on A/C or MAX as usual
- if we shut-down the engine and try to engage A/C or MAX again the cold air would only come-out through the top (windshield) and low vents - no more front ventilation
- all solenoids appear to be working (moving)
I have a 2015 Prius. when I operate the ventilation system without using the AC, and the air on by-pass I get a rear bad smell. With 6500 mile I should not be needing to spray disinfectants etc into the ac system.
View 19 RepliesOccasionally when driving I get almost a earthy smell. Not mildew but more like pond water. I checked the cabin filter it was dirty but had no smell to it. It does have a front & rear HVAC system.
View 2 RepliesSo I used to have my phone holder clipped to the vents to the left of the steering wheel. Key words, used to. One day, one of the clips snapped as I was putting my phone into the holder, sending a piece of plastic about 2 inches long into the vent. At first I could see it, but since I was driving, I couldn't fish it out. Sure enough, on a turn, it disappeared completely into the dark void that is the ventilation system. Now, on every turn, I can hear the little sucker careening back and forth. Sounds like I'm gonna have to disassemble the dash to into the pipes, but maybe there's a more harmless way.
View 6 RepliesI noticed today that the temp got to be about 70 degrees today. I went to put on the ventilated seat, but it did not blow cool air. when I first got the car, it felt like as soon as I pushed the button cold air came out, It actually felt weird at first.
Now I can hear the fan going if I turn everything down, but it did not get cool.
'05 1.8T with 30K miles: Sometimes, when the car is stopped and idling, an oil burning kind of smell comes in through the ventilation system. I can also smell it outside. I had the dealer (a good one) check it out. Couldn't find anything. No sign of leakage anywhere. Where I or they should be looking? When I open the hood during these smell events, I can't see any smoke or tell exactly where it's coming from. It seems to be around the driver's side of the engine, but all the heat is on the other side around the exhaust and turbo. Weird. It's really starting to annoy me.
View 3 RepliesThe other day I was driving a rather long distance and stopped to take a nap inside the car with everything off. The solar ventilation system started to do its magic, but it only seemed to operate in bursts, i.e. no air flow, 20 seconds delay, slowly increasing airflow to what seems like a max flow for about 5-10 seconds, then no flow at all again for maybe a minute or so. It seemed odd, and not very efficient at all as opposed to just keep the fans going (in plain sun that shouldn't be a problem).
View 12 RepliesYesterday I heard a high-pitch noise/squeal coming from the vehicle and after some searching, figured out it was from the ventilation fan. It went away after 5 mins of being on but is rather annoying. Not too keen to take it in as I'm sure the dashboard will need to be removed and afraid it won't go back in perfectly.
View 7 RepliesI recently picked up a really clean 2011 F150. Once thing I notice is the brief smell of manure at startup. I bought a ventilation cleaning kit which has a hose to snake up the drain hose. Little did I know how much of a PITA this was going to be. Best I can see, the drain is behind the heat mat on the firewall and not easy to get to.
Questions - Is there another way into the system? Since there isn't a cabin filter (first odd discovery for a modern vehicle), can I get in through the intake side?
I have a E39 1997-model. When I turn of the engine, I hear a ticking sound from somewhere under the radio or the ventilation unit. What is this sound? Will it drain my battery?
View 1 RepliesRecently, I've noticed that sometimes my driver's seat gets hot, even though the switch is in the cooling mode. I had gotten in the habit of turning the switch back to the detent "0" setting, and then put it back into the cooling mode (-1 to -3) and all would work well again. However, yesterday, that little trick didn't seem to work and so it seems my seat heater is being activated even when the switch is supposed to be telling it only to run the seat ventilation fan. Is it likely just a failing switch?
View 24 RepliesCan I bypass the internal rad atf cooling and just run the factory aux cooler? I have a internal leak in the rad. I won't tow much over 3k, van is an 88' 1ton 460 club wagon.
View 1 RepliesI just had the 30,000 mile service at a dealership, replaced a leaking water pump, front and rear brakes. The car has just 30k miles on it so it hasn't needed anything major despite being 10 years old. Once I got it back the front windows and windshield are fogging up. It doesn't seem to matter if the car just started or has been going for a while. We have had temperature changes and humidity changes in the weather, neither makes a difference. I have to drive with the windshield defrost on all the time. The dealer said it isn't anything they did, but it started immediately after I got it back. Is it possible that they knocked something and broke it?
View 10 RepliesSo i was adjusting my headlamp and it popped and now the internal cartridge part is all loose and my headlamp is pointing at the ground. Long story short I need to remove my headlamp and repair, how do you fix the internal tray? I have only REPLACED lamps before never repaired them. Have to remove the cover lense or is there some other way? If I have to remove the lense I am just going to buy a new headlamp at the junk yard.
View 1 RepliesRecently purchased an 2002 SC430 and have an error on Navigation System which states the following...
DVD
UNABLE TO READ DATA
CHECK IF MAP DVD IS CORRECT
Dealer thinks it an internal failure at navigation ECU. Estimate for repair $1,256.00 OUCH..
Car: Seat Leon 2010, manual trans. On Saturday, upon starting the car after it had been driven 1 hour before, no internal electricity would work (dash board/internal lights, electronic windows, turn signal (internal and external), touch screen, electrical side view mirrors). The car itself ran and got home. I assumed it was something with a fuse, but all those under the hood aren't blown and I can' seem to find (/it doesn't seem to exist as there is just empty space where the manual says it should be) the internal fuses.
Today (monday) I looked again and made sure none of the fuses under the hood are blown and made sure (by taking out and putting right back in) all the fuses in the hood to make sure they are in all the way. Although I didn't test turning the car on since saturday, now, it wont start at all. In internal overhead lights go on when the door is open and the security code needed to start up the car work, but there is zero reaction when trying to turn the key.
What is wrong with the car? a fuse? battery? wiring? did I maybe put a fuse in the wrong spot? What should I do? try to jump start it or just get it towed to the shop (as anyways its due for a checkup....
Looking for diagnosing an troubling engine noise. Working on a 04 Hyundai Elantra with a 2.0L engine. This is a reman engine installed by the dealer. Engine has ~ 25k on it since install. Orginal one, thrust washer cracked, and crank drove front seal out. So replaced under warranty.
Changed timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys ~ a month ago. After driving I noticed a whining noise. Said Noise is RPM dependant and sounds like a bearing or belt whine. Loosed all the belts still there. Sounded to be in the area of the water pump.
Changed water pump ~ a week ago, noise still present. Removed all belts from crank pulley and noise still is there. Thought it might be timing belt or idler tensioner pulley even though they were new.
Today changed timing belt and idler/tensioner pulleys with a new Gates set again. Left lower and upper covers off of the timing belt. Whine is still present.
After all this I have narrowed the noise down to internal engine. So my question is this, Is there any common internal engine issues that might cause this. I know this motor does not have a balance shaft so not bearings there to whine. About the only thing left is cam/crank bearing. I might add the noise sounds to be lower in the motor, therefore, thinking bottom end.