Volvo :: Ignition Won't Turn Past 1st Position - Alarm System Service Required
Feb 20, 2014
I have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detente. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn.
Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years.
I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!?
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I had my first service done away from the Volvo dealership. 2004 S60 AWD ... How to reset the service required message. (Canadian model).
The sales rep is trying to find this out for me as well. He knows it involves the pressing of the trip computer button and while holding in another button.
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I just got a new-to-me 2007 4.0L Explorer . When I turn the ignition to the on position, I get a message that says "Check charging system"...
Once I start the engine it goes away. Is this normal?
My battery reads 12.6 with the engine off and 13.8 with it on.
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How to turn off the light that says maintenance required? is there a thread on that?
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Problem 1 started in winter of 2010 and happens randomly : can't shift the car from Park, I have to try several times, this occurs more during winter but now I'm having the same issue in summer even with temperatures above 78 degrees F. I took the car to the dealer in 2010 but nothing was wrong they said.Problem 2, my wife threw the original key in the dumpster by mistake ( with the remote keyless), I have had a key made buy the dealer, this key opens the doors and starts the car but each time I look the doors, the front passenger door unlocks itself. Now I'm having this message ALARM SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED. The alarm is no longer triggered.
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My battery drains to 8v volts when I turn the key to the on position, not starting the car just turning it to the on position. I have done the key off parasitic voltage draw and there is none. This only happens when I turn the to the on position or start the car. The battery will only stay charged from a full charge to 8v or till car shuts off for less than 5 minutes. This is a huge draw! Okay it has a new battery and a new alternator, and I took battery out and did an ohms check received 14 ohms between neg and pos cable with battery out. I was told that was fine or normal. So any clues on what would cause my battery to drain so quickly? When I hook up my DVM to the battery while car is running I get 1 volt or more drop per minute only while running.
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
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97 F150 4.2 auto with Simple trans pan gasket change because it was leaking and now the ignition fuse blows every time I turn the key to the on position. Ran fine before now what? can't pull code with reader with key on or off.
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On my class C motor home, 1999 with V10 engine when I turn the ignition key to the start position I get absolute silence, when I release the key and turn it to the start position again it always starts. I have fitted a new starter motor, new solenoid and new battery but still the problem persists. I'm scared that one time it will not crank over on the second attempt.
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Any way to clear the "service required" indicator that pops up when you first start the car?
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What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
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I live full-time in an RV which results in very bad condensation building up in the cab and over the past year, the ignition system has gradually got more and more stiff.At first, it was noticeable that it did not spring back from "start" to "run" (the airbag light remained on and the fan/indicators did not work) but I just had to tweak it into the right position.
This was mainly an issue when starting from cold.Then, after a long drive with the heater on, it would not turn off. It finally took a wrench to turn the key off. Leaving off the heater seemed to work but it gradually got worse and it got more and more difficult to turn it on.I finally replaced the key cylinder but it made absolutely no difference and now the key physically will not turn. I am now sitting in a vehicle with no propane and full waste tanks.
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Starts great, idles great, tested everything. Will not rev past 1500rpm.
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I have a 1994 F150 XLT 5.0 . The problem i am having is when I turn the ignition on I hear the fuel pump come on [both front and rear tanks] and it should stop when the system is pressurized but it does not,and the truck then fails to start. Intermittantly the pump does stop and the truck starts up.
There is fuel at the rail and there is spark,i have changed the filter ,fuel pressure regulater and the pump relay to no avail.
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I am having problems with my automatic choke. Holley 80457. When I turn on the ignition and depress the accelerator, the choke plate does not close. It is wired and has vacuum.
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I have a 1994 volvo 940 turbo, the transmission has been fine, but today out of nowhere the car will not rev past 2500rpm. But only when its in drive, if i drop it to 1st or 2nd it will rev fine?
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The visor no longer rotates past the straight down position toward the windshield. It works fine rotating to the side window and down from its storage position to the straight down position. The passenger visor still works properly. Any fix or should I just order a new visor from the dealer?
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I have a 2006 with 155k miles. I took it into the dealer for a mini service this week. Drove home after the service was complete, then drove to work yesterday. On the way home an alarm sounded and the red triangle light with !, the break system light (O) with !, the VSC light and the engine CHECK light came on.
A friend used his scanner to read the error code for me and it reported a "p0a80" code. What does this code mean? Replace the hybrid battery?
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I've been thinking about leaving the wipers in "service" position overnight when it's snowing or freezing rain. I'm wondering if I can go and start the engine and get the defroster going - or - will the wipers try to go back to their "parked" position as soon as I turn on the ignition? Not a fun thing if they are frozen to the glass...
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So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
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