Volvo :: Idles At About 1200 RPM / When Engage Drive Idle Drops To Very Low
Mar 27, 2013
My Auto 2.4 850 SE (38600miles) does this lately:
- idles at about 1200 rpm, and takes long to settle to its 850 position, even when warm;
- when I engage Drive, idle drops to very low, car vibrates as if engine wants to switch off, then rises again as I give gas and pull away.
Why this is the case, and what I could do to remedy this? (About 2 months ago, idling was going really nuts! I removed the flame trap and fresh air hose: it was full of oily gunk and I gave all components a good clean up with carb cleaner and then replaced them, and then idling all fine after that).
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2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. It's got a NA SII 3800 3.8L engine. So far we have put $337 into trying to fix it. What happens is:
Go to start it.
Turn key to On.
Turn key to start.
It either cranks over a bunch of times and never starts or it starts and dies or it starts and is fine. Every time it wont start after cranking a bunch you give it GAS and it revs up real good and starts fine. Idles at around 1200 RPM. This poor car. There has never been anything wrong with it. Replaced the catalic convertor once and the battery once. We took it in and they replaced the Cam sensor and the Crank sensor to try and fix it because they said the fuel pump registered fine.
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My 2012 idles after start up on a warm day at 1200rpm which seems high to me. Should it be lower?
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It started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
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I have an '01 gti glx that I just swapped a motor into. I got the motor out of an '01 jetta glx, exact match AFP engine code.
I get cylinder 2 misfires mostly (high number) but I also get 5 and 6 intermittently as well as a P0300 code.
Sometimes I also need to hold the gas down just to get it to start even after the crank sensor.
The engine idles sometimes at 600 rpm but drops and nearly stalls after revving at all.
What I've tried so far:
working cam sensor from my old vr
brand new crank sensor
brand ned wires/plugs
new fuel filter
swapped injectors of misfiring cylinders from old motor
lined up the timing 3 times now and its still perfect
I know the coil pack works because it was on my old motor, which ran fine, just leaked oil.
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After about a 45 minute drive yesterday the EPC light came on, idle went up to 1200 rpm's and when I turned off the car it wouldn't turn on, just leaving the ignition for about 5-7 seconds is when the car finally started.
Today, again after a 45 minute drive the EPC light came on again, same symptoms, except that the car stalled and I had to turn the ignition again about 5-7 seconds for it to start. No other light is on, and the car would start fine after about half an hour rest with no EPC light.
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So here's my problem; my 05 Excursion has a v10 and now it does not idle correctly. At a stop sign and in gear it idles anywhere between 900 to 1200 rpms. Normally it should be idling around 750. I just noticed this as I had to apply more brake pressure to keep from driving through an intersection. Since this has happened I have changed the air filter and fuel filter. Do you think I need a computer reset, or something else?
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Recently I believe i got a tank of bad gas. Was having problems starting. Finished it off filled up used injector cleaner and dry gas to clean it out a bit more. Now as I was driving the car would basically stall out but kick back in as I was driving and the EPC light would come on. I've been reading up and most answers are a bad coil pack. I pulled them all out and checked them they all look pretty good. No codes are popping up for it a coil pack. Unless I need a specific VW model computer to check. I'm gonna check the volts on the coil packs today to see as well.
The EPC light does go off after the car sits a while. It comes back after a few miles driving. After the EPC light comes on my car will idle at 1200 RPMs up from 800 when its normal.
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I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
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Daughter's 2001 Santa Fe Delta V-6 2.5 engine, needed lower ball joints. Replaced the entire lower arms as more cost effective & actually a bit less work, for me anyway.
So While under it, see oil dripping down back of engine. Decided to replace valve cover gaskets. So I start to disconnect all the involved connectors, brackets etc to pull the Upper air intake to get to the rear cover.
While moving around, find most of the hoses & vac lines baked brittle and dried out and loose even tho clamped, so I replace all of those, plus the PCV valve., & the upper & lower radiator hoses as well. I only removed the upper 1/2 of the intake. I change out the cover gaskets, reassemble every thing, reconnect all the connectors. I noticed that some of the connectors could apparently be switched to other sensors, but since all the lines seemed so backed solid, they actually retained their positions to go back onto the proper sensors.(at least I hoped so & it seemed that way).
Anyway, every thing back together & tightened up, so I start it up & the idle is at about 3000 to 3400 RPMs. WTF? So I pop the throttle a couple of times by hand and finally it drops down to normal, then just as suddenly, it begins SEARCHING for lack of a better word, and starts racing upto 2600 rpm then drops to 1200 then up again then down again.
No check engine light or other idiot lights on. So I shut it down & check all the connections and hoses, nothing disconnected or left off or loose. I start it again, and it immediately begins running high & low searching for the idle again.
I shut it down again, and put the MacPro scanner on it and NO codes either set or pending. I next check the Haynes Manual I have for it, & the closest thing I can find to my problem says: Engine Lopes while idling or idles erratically 1) Vac leak 2) Leaking EGR 3)Air filt clogged 4) Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel 5) Leaking head gasket 6) Timing belt/sprockets worn 7) Camshaft lobes worn
By process of elimination, not #'s 2) According to service manual, there is no EGR valve on the 2.7, and I couldn't find one either, #3) Air Filter is new & clean, #4) ran fine before I worked on it & with the engine revving up to 34 or 3600 rpms, getting plenty of fuel, #5) Have had many head gasket problems over the years on many vehicles, never anything like this, and again, it ran fine until I worked on it #6 & 7) Doesn't seem to me to be a belt sprocket or cam shaft problem, as none of that was touched & again, it ran fine until I worked on it. This kind of narrows it down to #1, for me, but this is not like any vacuum leak I have ever come across in 45 years of auto repair. I have found & fixed many stumbling idles due to minor leaks but never had anything like this.
I next called a friend who owned an automotive machine shop & who I used to do work for, and now runs a highway dept garage for a municipality who has been a certified mechanic for many years, told him all the above & the only thing he could come up with was a MAJOR vacuum leak, like possibly the upper plenum gasket rolled up or got torn some how when I replaced the plenum and he suggested that I try a smoke test.
Scratching my head, I go back to the car, & break out my home made smoke machine that I use to successfully pinpoint leaks in emissions systems. I ran it for quite awhile, and found some light smoke leaking from somewhere down around the head, but due to the construction of the engine & no way to get the light to shine under the plenum, could only guess that he may have been right & that there may be a large leak down at the lower intake manifold to head gasket. Needless to say, I removed the upper plenum again, & this time also the manifold to heads, and the gaskets looked like they may possibly have leaked slightly between the ports, & quite possibly somewhere around the number 6 cylinder. So I cleaned the surfaces & am putting on the new gaskets that came in the set with the upper plenum to manifold gasket set.
My questions after relating all of this:
1) The 2 gaskets between the manifold & the cylinder heads have a blue stripe around all 3 cylinder port holes (appears to be some kind of sealant or factory applied silicone bead) & there are no markings of any kind anywhere on the gaskets, so do the blue stripes face DOWN to the heads or UP to the bottom of the intake manifold ?
2) Regardless of which way these stripes face, should I use any kind of high temp sealant around the port holes in addition to the gaskets, or just install them dry ?
3) Can the Idle Air Control on the Throttle Body Fail & affect the idle like the problem I am having, but NOT set a computer code ?
4) Can the Throttle Position Sensor affect the idle like this and NOT set a computer code?
5) I also found an electronic valve between the Air Intake & firewall, it is labeled PCV and has an OEM part number after that, I believe this to be the Purge Control Valve, which connects the TB to a plastic line which I believe runs down to the emissions canister under the vehicles front seats. Am I correct in thinking that even if this part had failed, it would have NOTHING to do with my erratic Idle problem, but would throw an emissions computer code?
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I just picked up an 02 Hyundai elantra manual trans that needed a transmission. ran fine before I replaced transmission but after putting it all back together the car now how has an erratic idle. it will rev from 2-4000 rpms. I tried spraying for vacuum leaks idle didn't pick up any higher. replaced tps and iac and didn't make a difference. the only thing that did make any difference is unplugging map sensor. dropped idle to about 1200 rpm but ran rough. could this affect the idle.
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I have a 1.8t jetta that has a weird idle issue when starting and engine is cold it like to idle at 1200 rpm then will eventually work its way down to 800 rpm
I have no cel codes and have looked for vacuum leaks (but may have missed one) ,but if i start the car and it idles at 1200 rpm then i shut it down and start it right after it will idle at 800 rpm as normal.
Its a 1.8t unitronic stage 1 stock everything except e type coils with plugs at .032, Also does not have much pull after 4000 rpm, not to worried but just may be part of the issue....
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Bought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
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Engine is a late 60's 390 with a C6 auto in good shape with a purported rebuild of about 10-15K miles on it. I picked up a nice condition Autolite 4100 and rebuilt it. Original tag states "C5AF AV" and below that in smaller font: "A 5AC" The base is stamped 1.12. It has the auto choke and auto tranny kickdown.
Truck has been sitting for 4 years so I drained the gas, primed the oil and added 5 fresh gallons. Started up on the second try!! But it won't idle and wants to die unless I feather the gas until it warms up. Also has a bog when accelerating up past 1200 RPM. I've been checking for vacuum leaks but none so far found.
I have a number of questions. But one of the areas I believe I need to correctly adjust is the float level, and here is where I can't get a clear answer or clear explanation of the correct procedures. What is the correct float level? My Sorensen rebuild kit actually had multiple values and the one that looked best had different primary and secondary values. I tried setting it "dry" by the upside down check with the cardboard supplied gauge. Good news is that it is not overflowing so needles and floats seem to be working correctly.
However, how do you do a more accurate wet setting? Appears to be two methods - one is the float setting and the other is the fuel depth. One good thread seems to state that both wet floats should be at 11/16". An engine builder locally said they should both be about level/parallel. Autozone says the primary should be 20/32" and the secondary should be 1 1/16". My rear wet float is almost level and it measures about 15/32". NONE of the data I've been able to find agree on the right setting nor do they explain in detail the correct way to measure using the wet float method.
I've got more questions like the choke settings and the vacuum port for hot air intake (currently open) and only getting 14 inches vacuum (I believe it should be 18 inches) etc., but I'd like to get the floats right before tackling them.
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I noticed a slightly higher RPM at idle (1100-1200) with outside temps in the mid 50's after a 15 mile trip. I dont recall what it usually is, it just seemed to revving higher. What would say normal RPM's are on a warm engine.
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I have a 1999 Ford F550 with a 6.8L V10 and a 4R100 Auto.
I want to run an underhood hydraulic pump, like what a wrecker uses only I want to use it to run a generator under the truck.
How can I get a 6.8 to idle up to 1200 or so? I searched the Body builders guide and it looks as if the idle up is for the 7.3 only.
My truck also is not a 2005 and up like the other posters, who can take advantage of a drive by wire.
Also I doubt my transmission has a PTO cover so I think a generator option using that route is a dead end. What are my options to idle the truck up to 1200?
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I drive a 2006 Scion tC with 96000 mileage. The car has been getting a lot of problems lately.
1. P0741 torque converter engine light
2. Lost in power
3. Lost in MPG
4. Shakes a lot inside
5. Low Idle
6. engine shuts off on reverse and d mode
7. Noisy strange sounds
8. Gear slip around 2-3
9. RPM goes high at low speed.
I Replaced,Spark plugs, coil plugs, engine oil, coolant, steering fluid, brake fluid. I need to to replace the transmission fluid. I was told by a couple of shops to get a transmission rebuild....
I also read someones comment online: "It's your transmission. Your torque converter is bad. There is too much torque as a result. When your car is in neutral or park there is no torque being created. When you leave the in gear idle state, the torque is relieved. That is why the problem will go away when you hit the gas."
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The drivers window automatically drops when reaching the closed position. It will stay up if I hold the button.
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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I cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and now the motor idles at 1000-1300 rpm. Is this normal for a newly cleaned throttle body? How can I bring down the idling rpm?
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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