Volvo :: Hissing Noise From Under The Hood When Go Faster
Jan 30, 2014
96 850 turbo auto. 150k .. My girlfriend just informed me there's something wrong with the car. I drove it, from idle to 1/2 throttle it drives fine cruises on up too a hunski pretty quick, but from half to full there's a hissing sound coming from somehere under the hood and while its hissing it feels like the turbo doesn't want you to go any faster. Also from a stop light if you give it full throttle it wont shift out of first unless you let off the gas.
Also when in park if you rev the engine to like 4-5k and let off, very very slowly does it drop back down to idle. The tracs off and abs lights are on! I'll hook my code reader up tonight to see if i can pull any codes.
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I noticed my car hiss and hum from under the hook after shut down, for a few minutes. What is it doing?
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My 85' 740 GLE has been having some troubles lately, A nasty loud hissing noise is coming from near where the oil pan is and it is more prominent when i apply pressure to the gas pedal or sometimes when my foot isn't on the brake or gas. The first 5 minutes or so of the drive are fine, you hear the hiss but there are no noticeable performance issues. After a few minutes the noise gets a little louder and starts to effect the acceleration tremendously to the point where it'll take me roughly 10 seconds to hit 30 mph from being stopped.
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My es350 with 4000 miles makes slight hissing noise only in Reverse (without moving the car), the sound comes from under hood, and more like air leaking noise (AC off), not loud, I can only hear it when in my garage with radio off.
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When driving my 2003 Volvo XC70, it sounds as if I am driving on nobby mud tires. The sound (rrrrrrrrrrrr) gets faster and slower with the cars acceleration and deceleration. I know that the sound isn't caused by the tires because I am running on Micheline Harmony tires which are fairly quite. I am concerned that it may be a gear going bad.
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I have a 1991 Volvo 240 Base with an Automatic Transmission. Just yesterday, I was hopping onto the highway, when all of a sudden, my car would not go any faster than 40 to 45 MPH. It has been running fine up to that point. I ended up just taking side streets, where it ran fine. I have not taken it on the highway after that.
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I recently bought a '97 Volvo 850 sedan. It is not a turbo. It starts up fine. It goes in reverse fine. It accelerates to about 10-15 mph fine. But when I accelerate faster than that, the rpm's go up and the car coasts. After about 20 minutes the car drives fine and it doesn't rev high. How to find what need replacing?
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I have a 2003 F350 with a 6.0. I just finished replacing my HPOP (Adrenaline Pump from Diesel Site) and fired the truck up and its making a hissing sound from the rear of the motor back by the turbo almost sounds like a tire leaking and its loud enough to hear over the engine. The truck is running and idling good but it doesn't seem to be quite 100% when I step on it.
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My Explorer overheated yesterday. Found a very loud hissing sound coming out from under the hood. Let it cool off filled it with antifreeze, started it up, started hissing again. Found the thermostat had broken. Replaced the thermostat. Filled it up again. After replacing the thermostat I found out the hissing sound was coming from the plastic thermostat housing. Replaced the housing. Again I refilled it with antifreeze.
Started to let it warm up and noticed liquid dripping out of the exhaust pipe. Checked it out. Had a green color to it. Then I noticed the coolant resivor was full up to the cap. I did not fill it up past the full line on the side of the resistor. Tried removing the cap.
Found out it had a ton of pressure under it. Bled off the pressure. Refilled it again. Did not put the cap back on. Tried starting it. Instantaneous geyser. Runs like it is missing on 1cylinder. No oil in the coolant that I can see. No coolant in the oil. Could this problem be caused by a blown head gasket of a crack in 1 of the heads or in the block?
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Last week during the extreme cold my 2006 Volvo xc90 dropped a nearly full tank of gas onto my driveway. I had driven each if the three sub-zero days and on the third day drove about a mile, parked for about an hour then came home to get my phone. I left the car running while I ran inside for about a minute and came out to a hissing sound and dripping gas. I moved the car away from my house and watched the fuel indicator go to empty. Once it was up on the flat bed tow truck the driver pointed out big splits in the tank. I am sure I didn't drive over anything or through deep snow. Could the cold have caused this? Did I mention the driveway is new?
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95 850... What is the magic trick to getting access to the bottom section of the fuse panel under the hood. I have removed the 4 torx on the black cover, then the 3 gold torx, then the screws holding down the incoming cable bunches. But no matter how hard I try I can only pull the white fuse panel up a certain amount, I can get it to pivot on the lower fuse tray, but can not seem to be able to figure out how to either pull the lot or disconnect the top part from the bottom part - so as to move the top part out the way! There just does not seem enough give in the wires....
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Experiencing excess wind noise at 60 mph and faster? You would think a vehicle that has a low drag coefficient would not have wind noise issues.
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I have a noise I think maybe the front end but not sure it sounds like a wheel bearing noise it's becomes faster as I accelerate it does not increase in noise and by the time you get to 20 mph it disappears, it also disappears when ou tap the brakes or barely push the brakes I had the brakes inspected it's good had the wheel bearings check out even though they said it's a sealed bearing unit they did their test and the wheels made no noise...My car is a 2005 Camry 4 cyl.
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I recently had my 2002 1.8T in for clutch replacement at the dealer and they came back and said the crankshaft was bad ( the car was occasionally making noise when pushing the clutch in, they thought it was a throwout bearing) I took the car back to bring it back to an indie, and it is loud at idle and while accelerating (sounds like a chattering noise that gets faster as speed increases) It's now sitting in the parking lot. My question is, am I going to have to put in a whole new engine to fix this problem? can just a crankshaft be replaced?
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Two days ago I started to hear a strange engine ticking noise. This is not the normal sound of the injectors pushing fuel into the engine, i know what that sounds like. This is far louder. And when I start to accelerate, the ticking becomes faster. When I cruise at a steady speed, the engine starts to sputter until I press on the gas or brake.x I took it to my local dealer and they ran codes and did an oil change. The guy told me to drive the car around for a bit and the noise will disappear. They also told me that if it did not disappear then I am basically screwed because it could mean that "my valves collided with my pistons due to over exceeded engine speeds" I will post a picture of the code and a video of the sound. [URL] ....
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My i40 (18 months old and already on it's 5th problem) has just developed an enormous noise (thud thud thud) when going over 15mph and gets faster with speed. If I go into neutral and turn the engine off at speed it is still there. The crazy thing is as soon as I veer or turn right it stops but when I turn left it does not stop. It's really lot and I can feel it through my feet and on the steering wheel. I am taking it into Hyundai (again) but I'd like to understand possible issues before I go in.
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Recently I started hearing a noise that sounds like something that is rotating is rubbing on something. It starts at at about 5 MPH and gets higher pitched as I go faster.
I've had the dealer and another mechanic tell me it's coming from inside the transmission.
The thing is my car shifts absolutely fine and the noise is not associated with shifting at all. It's an 07 and only has 47k miles on it! Could something in the gearbox already be damaged?
When tear the transmission apart if they will be able to run the gearbox and determine if the noise is from the gearbox?
I did make a transmission related mistake that caused the noise to occur. I was shifting from reverse to drive and I think I gassed it a little early and it lurched a bit. What this would put pressure on?
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This week I noticed a sound that sounds low that increases then the vehicle goes faster and decreases when it slows down. It is not wheel bearing noise. Took a doctors type scope and put it on the pulleys listening for the bearing noise in each pulley and found my alternator pulley making more noise than usual, My car needs new accessory belts so I ordered 3 new belts and will be replacing them soon. I am hoping the noise is from worn belts and not the alternator. If it is the alternator its going to cost me 250 bucks for a rebuilt one. I'm not sure if I can tear the alternator apart and replace the part bearing part. Have to look into this. Is this normal for a car with 161 thousand klm for accessory belt bearings on items to start to go bad? I sure hope the water pump and power steering and ac compressor and ac tensioner last. These all have bearings in them as well.
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So I let my son drive my car for the day because i wasn't doing anything. Now once he gives it back i started driving and now my car drives kinda bumpy and makes a thudding noise the faster I go. now i confronted my son(He's 19) and he told me he went to fast over a hill. What seems to be the problem.
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I have a 2002 Rendezvous. I keep on hearing a loud noise coming from the front of the car when I am driving and it gets louder when I drive faster. My mechanic says its because of a brake rotor that's hung up on something in the car.
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It's been a few days, I heard sound come from the engine bay like is sucking air. Finally I was able find out where the noise coming from. it's tube by the back of intake ram ripped. What is that tube do?
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