I have a 1994 960. It has developed a glitch. It idles fine when cold, but as it warms up it starts idling erratically-bouncing between about 500-900 rpm. It hasn't displayed a code so I'm stumped.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 Saturn Ion, 235,000 miles, 2.2 engine is idling erratic when I turn on AC. It sounds as though the compressor is turning on and off. The air is cold then blows warm then cold etc. Is it the compressor or could it be a relay or fuse. It also overheated last week but not sure if problems are connected. I am idling car right now with AC off to see if fan comes on.
View 3 RepliesNow I know I'm having problems when I go to start my car, and the check engine light starts flashing and my engine is idling really erratic. What could this be? I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave. I went to start it today.... problems. I have had this problem before and it seemed to correct itself.
I started my car. It was kinda rough when I started it. My engine started trembling and check engine light started flashing. I turned my car off and back on and it went away. No check engine light...no trembling..nothing!! Well, at least til now. I went to start it up and the same thing happened...really rough idle and my check engine light started flashing.
I was recently told it could be a misfire, but I was also told by a family mechanic that it could just be a faulty plug or shorted wires. Also, recently when I have been driving, my car has been feeling a little sluggish right around the 2nd gear mark, and I have watched my voltage gauge on my dash jump around a lot, anywhere from 11v to 13v. Could this be a symptom? Or the effect of something else? I don't want to get ripped of for something as simple as changing some spark plugs or wires.
I swapped my old 4.3 for one out of a 86 chevy blazer. the motor ran great in the blazer but after getting everything hooked up I get erratic idling and poor response from the car. throttle body is new as well, where to start?
View 3 RepliesMy 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
I have a problem with my 1988 740 Turbo. It starts and runs fine, but when cold it experiences a drop every few seconds when idling. In other words, when idling cold, it will act as though the key was turned off but just before stopping completely it catches and continues to run.
I guess I'm trying to describe something other than rough running, or a poor idle - this is more like an ignition short where the engine completely stops (but never does). The tach needle shows this also. It continues doing this while accelerating around the neighborhood but once the car is at operating temp it smooths out. I live in San Diego so it never gets cold here.
The car was tuned up last year and the distributor was replaced at the same time. New cap, wires, plugs. Car has close to 290K and still runs great except for this issue.
My '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5. Cost is 3200-3500 for the repair.
and if the price is accurate. Given the age and mileage on the car, I am reluctant to invest 3-4k.
The car occasionally stalls while at a stop and the car is idling. The car is supposed to idle at 900RPM but is idling at 550RPM. What would be suggested to prevent the car from stalling?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
View 2 RepliesThe car is a 1994 volvo 960, it has a rough idle, and its idling high (1500 rpm and higher) its throwing 7 codes, we just replaced the O2 sensor, we reset the computer, and still have issues, (though its no longer running rich!!!)
Here are the codes
1-1-3 injector group 1
1-1-5 injector group 2
2-1-2 O2 signal
2-3-2 long term fuel trip idle
2-1-4 rpm signal
3-1-4 cmp signal
2-3-3 long term ilde air trim
We also checked the idle control valve points 1-2 read 15 ohms and specs say 10-14, for the harness side port 1 read battery voltage (12.3) and port 2 initially read 10.2 then we wiggled and played with the injector wiring harness and it read 11.8.
We also poured fuel system cleaner right into the fuel filter and started it up, and just dumped the rest in the tank
I'm heading out to check those other sensors but what else could be causing these issues, also the temp gauge is reading cold all the time, but the fan kicks on when the car gets warm.
My '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5.
View 1 RepliesWhat are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesI'm to the point of driving the car off a cliff! I've included a log of the car acting upt. The car is a 20th AE GTI AWP. It was chipped all it's life and ran like a champ. In November I installed a Frankenturbo F21T turbo kit, Bosch EV14 550cc injectors, 3" MAF, eBay FMIC, 3" catted exhaust, and a custom tune from Motoza. Dave at Motoza has updated the file 4 times and no matter what he changes, the car will boost up to the requested boost of 19psi and hold it for almost one second, then boost will drop to 12-15psi and then boost past the request to like 22-24 psi and go back and forth until the gear is over and I shift. Then it does the same thing in the next gear. i just want a solid 18-20psi without a manual boost controller! Things I have tried:
-Changed the N75J back to a NEW stock N75
-Replaced all the N75 vacuum lines
-Wastegate cracks at 7-8psi
-Replaced every worm feed clamp to a nice T-bolt clamp
-Boost leak tested to 18psi and found no leaks
-Deleted SAI, N249, and N112
-Unplugged MAF, nothing changed
LOG with multiple WOT pulls: [URL]...
I drive a 2007 Toyota Matrix, automatic, 111K. My check engine light is on, but I haven't had it check because it frequently comes on and off for the evap sensor in the gas cap.
a few months ago all of a sudden the tachometer would move around very erratically. it started the first weekend that it was really cold here, and has since come and gone. At the times when it's not working, when i start the car the tachometer will usually hang at zero for a while and then begin to flail around usually bouncing between zero and about 4k. Occasionally it will make it all the way to the highest range of the gauge, 8k, and jump around there for a while. Then without any trend that I've noticed all of a sudden it will function correctly. There are also times when it works fine the entire time from the time I start the engine.
Another disturbing piece is that about a month ago my temperature gauge joined in and will now remain at zero the entire time the tachometer is flailing about and then when simultaneously they will begin working normally.
At my wits end with a Tiguan problem that my dealership seems to be clueless ....
View 3 RepliesCame to a stop at a loooooooong light the other afternoon. I popped the AT into neutral, and the engine idle rose to around 2000 RPM, dropped to about 1500, then started cycling in that range. CEL also showed up.
Now, whenever the transmission is in either P or N, if I blip the throttle to bring the RPMs into that range (1500-2000), it stays in that range and cycles up to 2000, drops to 1500, wash, rinse, repeat. Blipping the throttle above 2000 does not change this behavior... as soon as the RPMs drop back to 1500, zoom it goes, right back to 2000.
Ok so here's the thing. I put an intake on the car. But the engine shakes badly and the RPM keeps bouncing. There is no air leak. Is there any vag-com programming that needs to be done for the intake to work since it is going to be different than the stock one? t is a 2.0t engine.
View 11 Replies2010 wagon is doing great as my daily commuter and a long distance hauler for my wife and two kids on weekends, but I'd love to cut down on the floatiness and fore-aft body motion over swells. I put Bilstein HDs and a rear stabilizer bar (really a torsion beam stiffener) on my old 2000 wagon and left the springs stock after I'd read on these boards the idea that the B5 was under-dampened, and though the changes were big improvement and good compromise. People seem to like to touring cup kit, but I don't particularly want to drop the car and would like to preserve as much of the ride quality as possible.
View 6 RepliesA few days ago I changed my oil and decided to throw in a can of sea foam with a fresh tank of gas. I live literally 100ft from a gas station so I poured the bottle of sea foam in my tank while on empty and then immediately drove over and filled up my car. Right after that my car was bouncing from 500-600 rpms consistently at idle...I gathered it did not mix well and was running mainly on the sea foam. After a day or so of really driving the car that issue had stopped and it was idling/driving normal.
Fast forward a few days to today and all of a sudden my CEL comes on. Also, when I come to a stop after a long drive my car decides to jump up to a 1200rpm idle. I let it sit there for a good 2-3 minutes and it will not come down. I've noticed before that if I blip the throttle a tiny bit it will get it to drop to its normal idle, but that is not working for this. Do you think all of this originates from running that sea foam or could it be a completely different issue? I just turned 62k miles and haven't had a single problem before this. It wont be until later this week when I can plug it in and check to see what codes it is throwing..
This car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
View 5 RepliesOur 2004 V8 w/air susp bounces up and down when idling in park for more than a minute or so. At first we sent it to the dealer as a rough idle problem. They sent the car back as normal.
The "bouncing" is just that; the car vibrates in only the vertical axis. Most V8 roughness is mostly rotational and V8's with rough idle usually rock the car on it's longitudinal axis. Also, feeding in a few hundred rpm doesn't change the period of the bounce. So, it's RPM independent. Rules out the enging, doesn't it?
The bouncing is enough to jiggle keys on the dash. I'm wondering if the air suspension could be the culprit. I tried changing the ride height while bouncing and the behavior stopped until the car settled at the new height. That's what leads me to suspect some sensor failure in the air susp.
2004 V8, Air Susp, No Nav
2003 GTi 1.8T