Volvo :: Engine Began Shaking And Rumbling - Idle Went From High To Low
Jun 23, 2015
I have a 2001 Volvo S60. I just got in it to go to the store and I swear it is possessed! My engine immediately began shaking and rumbling the idle went from very high to dangerously low. I cut it off and cut it back on. There was no rumbling but now it is idling very high close to 3.5 rpm when it does settle after a while if i even touch the gas a little it shoots right back up. My emission error message is showing but i have had it looked at a few times and they can't find anything wrong with the emissions system. Recently my transmission message came on and stayed on for a week or so but went back off before I could have it looked at and it never drove any different even when the light was on
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Wifes car began to idle very rough and check engine light began to blink and beep, I took it to the mechanic today and he informed me that my control module was no good and it was a $400 dollar piece. I said go ahead get it done, cuz she needs the car and i couldn't afford to not have it done immediately. Question I have is does this small-ass piece really go for that much on average and what control module is it?
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I just started to have some idle problems with my 2013 Elantra GLS auto 1.8 that has 10k miles.
I went to the gas station to fill up the tank since the gas was very low (30 mile range). I filled up the tank, started the car and the engine began to stumble and idle poorly like it was about to stall. I put the car in drive and the engine stalled. I restarted the car and it ran normally.
The car will now briefly idle poorly when I'm at a stop light. The car will be at a stop light idling and running normally. Suddenly, the tach will go down to 200 rpm and then up to 1200 rpm, like it is about the stall. Then it will idle steadily and be back to normal. This has happened about three times over the past two weeks.
What may be causing this intermittent idle problem?
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My wife has a 2002 Volvo S60 that we share with ~165,000 miles on it now. In the last 4-5 years or so, it developed this problem of feeling like the whole engine is shaking when we start it up sometimes. It can go days or even a week where we don't have this problem and then all of a sudden it happens one morning or afternoon, or whenever without any rhyme or reason. While it's shaking, the lights on the dash go in and out with the shaking (going between dim and bright). What also happens right before the shaking sometimes is that the engine will rev itself, like its got a mind of its own, sometimes up to 2000 RPMs, like I am pressing on the gas pedal and holding it, but I'm not! It will stay revved up for a good 10 secs or so then come down on its own and proceed to shake. We usually turn the car off, then on again and it goes away. If it doesn't go away, then we repeat (off/on).
We've taken it to the dealer multiple times, including in different cities since we happened to move in the last few years to another city and still, no one can solve the issue. She swears it all started happening after we went a week without the gas tank lid after it got left off by accident after we pumped gas one time. I noticed it was missing definitely within < 7 days and got a replacement right away from the auto store. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
The car otherwise still runs fine but we just never know when the shaking thing is gonna happen next. It can even happen on the highway when we are driving. You can be trucking along at 70 MPH or so and then ease up on the gas and we'll feel it in the gas pedal and the car...it will jolt and shake a little until we rev the engine above whatever speed we had decelerated to when the shaking started.
When the shaking has happened, I have gotten out of the car to examine under the hood and cannot see anything in particular, the whole thing is just moving like normal and shaking a bit and then eventually if you leave it long enough, it stops on its own.
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I have a boat with Volvo AD41p engines and DP outdrives. The engines and drives have 830 hrs. Recently the transmission began to only engage at about 1,500 RPM. The Volvo dealer here says that I most likely need a new cone clutch, although they didn't really inspect it properly. Transmission fluid is full. ... show more.
I have been using the boat almost every weekend for 18 months, and it was running fine - the problem just started toward the end of a 1,000 mile trip - so the cables should be fine. It clicks into gear, but doesn't engage right away.
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Purchased a 2000 F150 (over 200,000 miles) from a company fleet. The truck is not driven on a daily basis, only when needed to haul something to land field. One morning I had to drive the truck. When I pulled out of the driveway and began acceleration the truck began to shake violently. After some experimentation I came to the following conclusion. The vehicle starts to shake when a speed of 45 mph reached.
If I try to hold the speed between 45-55 mph the shaking continues. If I let off of the accelerator, the shaking stops, if I accelerate thru 45, the shaking stops. The shaking is not from wheels, rotors, axle etc. The check engine lite also came on during this time. When the shaking starts, if I attempt to accelerate, the truck looses power briefly then picks up. I didn't pay alot for the truck and really don't know how much I am willing to put into it. If it doesn't cost alot would like to keep the truck running.
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I own a b5.5 2.8l 30v v6. Today I went to get in the car and on start up for the first time in 3 days it started shaking a lot and making a small rumbling noise, sort of like a cylinder misfire. This isn't the first time its happened. I tried searching this up and everything seems to point toward the fuel injectors. In this past 6 months my average mpg has dropped from about 20 to 16.
I am guessing it is this, but someone also said it might be a cylinder misfire. What exactly is causing this? Also in the 1 year of owning it, it makes sort of a diesel sounding noise in the engine. Some people have told me it might just be the valves that need to be adjusted but I have no clue.
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I have a Prius III 2011. I've had it for 10,000 miles and have had no problems at all. Yesterday, when I started the car, it made a loud rumbling and the engine shook, when it transitioned from the electric motor to the gas engine.
It did that several times when I restarted and then went away. The problem happened on the transition each time. Electric motor came on perfectly and then ten seconds later it was like an earth quake under the hood.
My dad watched the engine and said that it shook really hard. At first he thought it might be a fan belt but then he said it seemed more like water or something may have gotten into the gas tank and it was choking...
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I'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
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Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
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1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
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I have problem with my 2006 Prius , idle shaking and when the engine stops its really rough.
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It has 158,000 miles on it and you can feel the engine vibration through the steering wheel, seats, and floorboard, and especially through the gas and brake pedals! Under the hood the engine shakes in place and very badly . it stops at about 1500 rpm and got worse when I installed a intake...
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I was recently given my first Volvo. Its an 88 240dl. While driving my temp gauge climbs up to the red and sometimes hovers inside of it. It normally climbs up at stop signs and comes down on straight always then climbs right back up close to red. When the gauge was in the red i stopped the car and popped the hood open to see that the engine was not actually overly hot.
first i replaced coolant. nothing
then i replaced the thermostat. nothing
flushed radiator. nothing
Today i finally had enough and decided to switch out the water pump with a new one hoping that it would solve the problem seeing as it still had the factory one on. It did nothing. the gauge continues to climb up. I did replace one of the two senders in hope that it would fix the gauge reading but nothing.
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 4x4 ... Automatic transmission sport model
I have a severe shaking at 1500 rpm last gear and a slight shaking at idle doesn't shake when I'm off the gas barely shake when I kick it into higher revs but I than hear piston slap.
I replaced the spark plugs and I have brand new U-joints. Last night I checked all the plug wires and they are all getting spark. But my exhaust is skipping like I'm not firing in a couple cylinders
I checked the rear transmission mount (I'm replacing it). And the Engine mounts look ok but I'll check again today
I've read a ton of forums and they all have different answers so I'm really trying to figure out what is wrong before I spend a bunch of money replacing things that won't fix it!
I've read that it can be my tranny, TC, Harmonic Balancer, Steering Stabilizer, pinions, Tie rods, Steering(over all), IAC, Fuel System, IgnitionSystem.
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A friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
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My 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD has an engine whistle at idle, but it stops momentarily when I turn the stearing wheel left or right, then comes back. Whats up?
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I just bought this used truck, 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 extended cab. I noticed some shaking while in idle when I got it back home. The check engine light came on a day or two later, and I recently had a diagnostic test ran on it at the local AutoZone. It came up that I had a P0135 o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) malfunction and a P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor signal performance issue. The check engine light comes and goes. I stopped by Walmart for about 10 or 15 minutes and when I got back into the truck, the issues reoccurred. For about a minute, the check engine light actually started blinking! And then went away and started running normal again. Its upper confusing. I bought some MAF cleaner to use on it tomorrow and figured that wouldn't definitely clear up my issues, but I'm still wondering if the MAF sensor is enough to warrant the CEL to blink like that?!
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I am new to my car. It is an '95 turbo wagon with a 5 speed conversion and a ARP orange ECU. The issue is the car is holding shift rpm for 4-5 seconds after I take my foot off the gas. Since I am taking the load off the motor when I clutch in, it actually climbs higher before it drops off. Needless to say it is not really drivable in traffic that way! The idle rpm is ok and the car pulls really well when accelerating. I have checked for vacuum leaks and I am heading for the Idle Air Control valve. I don't think the engine has any other mods and it is pretty high milage (188k).
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A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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So for the last week my Civic has been making a low, rumbling sound (almost like an overly powerful bass system) and vibrating whenever the car is idling. The noise is most pronounced when the car is started but continues when I am driving, but only when I take my foot off of the gas. Whenever I accelerate, the noise stops. Also, the noise is very faint from outside of the car, but very pronounced from inside. What could be causing this?
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