Volvo :: Engine Won't Start When Driven A While


Jul 3, 2007

So I've got the problem where the engine won't start when it's been driven a while. The engine cranks and starts, but the RPM retards/drops until it reaches 0 after about a second or two.

I've measured voltage to and from the fuel pump relay. It gets 12 volts and spits out 7.5 volts with ignition on and engine not running. This is the correct voltage, so I see no reason to suspect the relay being the culprit. Besides; I can feel the relay clicking and hear the fuel pump working when the problem occurs, meaning that they both should be working fine. That's the conclusion I've reached, let me know if you think I should investigate the relay more thoroughly.

This has led me to start thinking that the ECU is getting some bad input from one of the sensors monitoring the conditions of the engine, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture.

The first sensor I checked was the coolant temperature sensor, which turned out to be quite correct - a couple of % lower than what the table says it should be. Could this have any effect?

What other sensors are sending important signals to the ECU, possibly contributing to bad fuel mixture? Air Mass? Air Flow? Oxygen Sensor? Are there any vaccuum hoses or idle valve components that could cause this behaviour?

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We've taken it to the dealer multiple times, including in different cities since we happened to move in the last few years to another city and still, no one can solve the issue. She swears it all started happening after we went a week without the gas tank lid after it got left off by accident after we pumped gas one time. I noticed it was missing definitely within < 7 days and got a replacement right away from the auto store. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?

The car otherwise still runs fine but we just never know when the shaking thing is gonna happen next. It can even happen on the highway when we are driving. You can be trucking along at 70 MPH or so and then ease up on the gas and we'll feel it in the gas pedal and the car...it will jolt and shake a little until we rev the engine above whatever speed we had decelerated to when the shaking started.

When the shaking has happened, I have gotten out of the car to examine under the hood and cannot see anything in particular, the whole thing is just moving like normal and shaking a bit and then eventually if you leave it long enough, it stops on its own.

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Mechanic can't figure it out... but he's only had it for a day, and it's been dry, and starting fine.

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I have a 97 Volvo 850. A couple weeks ago, it stalled a half dozen times while starting. The engine would turn over, start, run for a few seconds, then stall. Before calling for a tow truck, I started it up again, and it ran. After idling for a few minutes, it appeared to run smoothly. We drove home without a problem. When I took it into the shop, of course it wasn't acting up. A little later, the technician called to say it acting up for him so he knew I wasn't going crazy. He took it back to the shop, and it acted up again for another tech. They have since put their instruments on the car but it refuses to tell them anything. The check engine light works. All pressures are to spec. The fuel filter has been checked as well as all fuel lines. The car has not acted up now for over a week. The shop still can't find the problem.

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One ?clue: when jumper cables are hooked and powered up to start car, you can hear the CD changer trying to find a CD or something. But there are no CDs and we never leave it on. I mention this to the Service manager and he says that the measured battery drain is too low for that to be the problem.

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So today, i started it. Car starts ticking. The ticking is like 3 or 4 seconds apart between clicks, and the idle seems to change slightly each time it clicks.

I checked the oil and it was a little low. So i put 2 litres in, and then i ran the car (idling) to see if it would go away. Just for a few minutes. It did seem to go away, but then i gave it a little rev and it came back.

So in summary, clicks on start, idle and while driving. Idle changes slightly between clicks. And there is a few seconds between clicks.

Just checked it again. If i leave it idling the click stops but as soon as there are more revs, it comes back. And the noise is almost like the click of a switch (like when your kettle finishes boiling and the switch flicks off. Not the best comparison but similar).

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I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.

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I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.

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