Volvo :: Engine Computer Test - Sputters Unless Disconnect Vacuum Line
Jun 12, 2014
I replaced the engine computer (1346107) with one from ebay. Now it runs but sputters unless I disconnect the vacuum line (still sputters but a lot less). with it connected, the timing is off (to about 15-18 instead of 12). the distributor is rotated as far as it will go. Need to recognize these symptoms? Is there a procedure to test the ICU?
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I have a 95 Volvo 850 2.2 L (non-turbo.) I recently replaced the fuel pump, and filter. Now when I try to start the engine, it turns over and sputters before it dies. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and try again with the same results and the same with a longer wait time due to having to charge my battery. I have checked the fuel lines and they seem to be clear, up to the fuel rail. I also checked the plugs and although they need to be replaced, after sanding and re-gaping them, there is plenty of spark. The plug wires and distributor cap are fairly new, and the points look good. So the only problem I see as logical, is the fuel rail, pressure regulator, and injectors. I have bled the fuel rail at the shrader valve, and I am getting little to no fuel from it. I want to remove the injectors and rail, and check out the regulator along with the rest. But how do I tell if the regulator is good, and what is the best way to clean injectors so they will at least last till I can replace them with new?
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Recently I have been having a strong gas smell coming from my 1997 F150 Supercab 4.6L 2wd. It is not happening all of the time. I have also been hearing what sounds like a vacuum line leak. A loud shrill which varies with the engine rpm. This also does not happen all of the time.
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Just bought my volvo several days ago. It was throwing check engine codes so I had it scanned and it came down to a vacuum leak. I found the spot where it was leaking which was a little piece to the left and slightly behind the exhaust manifold, slightly behind and beneath the thermostat housing. It went from a hard plastic vacuum line, to a 1.5 inch rubber vacuum line which plugged into a nipple on the exhaust manifold or something behind the manifold. the rubber section had 3 large holes in it, so i replaced it with more rubber vacuum line. same length and same inner diameter.
What I did notice when I replaced it was that it was too large for the plastic line, slid on way too easy, but i had to fight it onto the nipple. The check engine codes went away for 2 days(I drove about 150 miles over that time) but today, the check engine light came back on, went to auto zone, had them scan it, came back with vacuum leak. So when I got home, I popped the hood, sprayed some carb cleaner by the replacement vacuum job I did, and sure enough the idle changed. What the proper replacement hose is for that area?
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I think my car has a vaccum leak. The car cranks ok, but it has a lope to it and when I try to drive it, it hesitate when I step on the gas and sputters, every since I cleaned the engine. I checked all the vacuum lines and found two that were broken or split. I replace those lines I also check the air intake vinyl connection to the throttle body it wasn't slpit. Well I didn't see a split in it. So I put it back together and cranked it. You can hear a vacuum leak sound near the fire wall. I pulled each vacuum line off one at a time and checked them again and found nothing. Could this be the intake plenum? I hat to take it to a mechanic when it is something simple that I could fix.
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6 cyl. vortac engine, air, 4WD utility model. The HVAC controls quit working and I just drove it - then after a few months the heater core started leaking. I had to fix that. While I was under the dash getting ready to put the new core in, I spotted a T in a vacuum line that went to an actuator on the passenger kick panel, the line to the actuator was intact. But the T went about 6 inches then thru a rubber plug (round with a cone shape on one side) hanging in space and about an inch on the side that was cone shaped the end had been chewed off.
Perhaps that is why the HVAC control quit? No other line can I find that it connected to. I have not been able to locate a vacuum diagram on the 'net. Or even find a hole somewhere within range that it might have passed thru originally. Much less the other end of the line, I guess the rats took it with 'em? where this line connects? or have a diagram??
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2002 Passat 2.8 ATQ. Found a disconnected vacuum on my V6. Where it goes? Its the grey one in the photos below.
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My battery had died and i purchased a new one. Once i had put it into the car i noticed the trip computer no longer worked. The time reset to 12:00 like expected but i can no loner change the time. Its still illuminated at night but i can no longer monitor gas mileage etc. I looked in the manual but could find no answer. Is there a way to reset it?
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My Phaeton had the typical burning oil smell so I suspected the Camshaft cover gasket. However when I looked at the service history the gaskets were only just changed in 2012.
When I inspected the car closely I found the RH EGR vacuum line was disconnected (pipe cracked through).
Unlike the Audi A8, the VW 4.2 looks like it has 2 EGR valves, and not one. So I reconnected it, and so far, the burning smell is now gone!!
I am a newbie on the VW 4.2 but is a disconnected EGR a likely cause of oil leaks? (ie positive crankcase pressure). It makes me wonder if all the people whom are changing their cam cover gaskets, should be checking their PCV/EGR's instead??
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My car has been missing after a recent spark plug change, so i did a smoke test and i see smoke coming from under the air cleaner and i see that the accessory vacuum line goes under there, could this be the cause of the misfire? i already checked all the sparkplug work and wires. and if this could be the problem how would i get to it 1998 Buick century 3.1.
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Was wondering if it is safe to use seafoam through my brake booster vacumm line? If I drip it in SLOW can I still hydrolock my engine?
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Lately I have been working a lot with my cold air intake. One of the vacuum lines keeps popping off. Today I got a check engine light and VSC and VSC off light. Is that due to the tough idle caused by the disconnected vacuum line. I erased the code and so far it has not returned.
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I have a vacuum line missing on the top of intake its a 98 explorer 4.0 sohc. I don't know where it goes...
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I noticed a vacuum line hanging under my 98 F 150 4x4 I traced it out to my front axle question is where does the other end go I have looked but no luck to where it goes.
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Question, I have a 2003 VW Golf GLS 2.0L AHV (5 speed). The brake vacuum line is cracked after the check valve on the intake side. I looked up the part number on the hose (at work and don't have it on me at the moment), did some research and noticed some revisions to that part number. Eventually settled on [URL] ..... (I ordered a new one since I needed to order a few things). Needless to say, I am beginning to think I ordered wrong.
I noticed that the check valve on the new hose has a 3rd piece that a smaller hose looks to clamp on? The check valve that is in my car doesn't have that. Did I order the wrong part? or did I need to be a cap?
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02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
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I have a 2001 F-250 7.3 diesel with an automatic trans. Over the last couple of months it has stalled 3-4 times while driving, always when slowing down but even at speeds of 15 mph or so. I did find a burnt vacuum line the other day. It comes out of some type of relay box located behind the battery and in front of the starter solenoid relay and is mounted on the fender. It has an electrical plug in the top and two vacuum lines at the bottom. I am hoping this is the cause of the truck dropping off of the idle circuit? But I don't know what the unit is so I cannot order the correct replacement lines.
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We are at a point where we need to install the tensioner for the chain, but the harness itself can't be moved enough. We may wind up removing the intake again to do so. Any easier methods?
Also under the intake at the back I noticed what appears like an open ended vacuum line after some small check valve... I don't recall it attaching to anything during tear down... Looking for vacuum diagram of the 2.4?
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My 2007 lexus es 350 engine will not shut off after I push the off button.
The everything goes off except the engine and the dash lights. I have to disconnect the battery to shut off the engine. The car does not have a remote start. could it be a relay and if so which one.
Last night I left the car battery disconnected and then this morning reattached and everything seemed fine. I started the car and let it fun for a couple minutes and then pushed the button and the car shut off. Then about 2o minutes later the alarm went off. The remote would not respond so I started the car and the alarm went off. Then I pushed the button to turn it off and the same problem occurred.
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How to clear the check engine light on 2000 Passat 4motion Wagon?
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What's the quickest way to check if the Check Engline Light is working?
I took my passat to get apr chipped. The shop spent few hours, and even worked with APR, and they could not figure what the issue is.
They were able to upload the software fine, but couldn't figure out which mode it is in, as they say my CEL isn't flashing, and therefore unable to switch modes.
APR got the shop to flash back the original software, and had them do a 'test'. I was told they tried unplugging a sensor, and the CEL didn't show, and made the conclusion that there is an issue with my ECU, which got me worried.
I am guessing they unplugged the MAF, as it is the easiest/closest sensor to unplug. And from what I read, it might not throw a CEL. In addition, APR's website state some B6 Passat Auto only support 1 mode.
Is there any easy way to test if my CEL is working or not? It lights up for a quick sec when I start the car, so I know it is not a fuse or bulb issue. Could it really be my ECU that is faulty? or is my ECU working ok, but only support 1 mode?
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