Volvo :: Engine Bad Hesitation When Accelerating From Idle
Dec 22, 2014
A friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
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My subaru forester, 2002, with low mileage (40K) had routine maintenance 2 mos ago. Now sounds like it revs when in idle, and today began hesitating when I accelerate (a few seconds or so). I plan to take it in but wonder if there's insight before I go in cold (I know nothing about cars). Read on forums could be 02 sensor.
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2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
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I have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
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I have an 88 volvo 244Dl with major hesitation while driving down the road. I recently had a no start issue and after a week at the shop it was fixed. During that repair it received: New Dist, cap, rotor, timing belt, coolant sensor, plugs, wires. With the hesitation I checked vacuum lines, cleaned T/B and MAA.
One thing I noticed, which seems weird... When the engine is hesitating, missing.. the radio becomes somewhat staticy. The reception of the radio mimics the hesitation of the engine.
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I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
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I have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
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I have a 2008 Ford F150 4.6L and its been broken down in our shop for quite some time now. It started acting funny when I could not get the truck to do over 80kmh. Slow acceleration, and a horrible shaking when it idled. Eventually it was undriveable since I could go above 50kmh anymore. From looking online we replaced the plugs and coils. We removed the intake to find the gaskets were shot so coolant was leaking into the spark plug tubes which could've been the cause of a misfire. Fixed that. Still the same. We replaced the egr valve and dpfe sensor because we keep getting the P0402 excessive egr flow code. Still no luck. My dad is a journeyman hes just not too familiar with newer trucks.
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My 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD has an engine whistle at idle, but it stops momentarily when I turn the stearing wheel left or right, then comes back. Whats up?
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1986 volvo turbo. I am at my wits end with my car. I know very little about car repair and maintenance and that alone makes me enraged.
So my car is very old and has not been taken care of before I owned it. It did misfire at idle speed before but very rarely, now it seems that ever since I put more oil in the misfires happen way more frequently.
I put in a synthetic 10w 30 oil and the engine is way more quiet now and the gas mileage is slightly better...but ever since I put it in the misfires are frequent. I do not know if it is a vacuum leak or a spark plug problem, or if it has something to do with the oil
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60. I just got in it to go to the store and I swear it is possessed! My engine immediately began shaking and rumbling the idle went from very high to dangerously low. I cut it off and cut it back on. There was no rumbling but now it is idling very high close to 3.5 rpm when it does settle after a while if i even touch the gas a little it shoots right back up. My emission error message is showing but i have had it looked at a few times and they can't find anything wrong with the emissions system. Recently my transmission message came on and stayed on for a week or so but went back off before I could have it looked at and it never drove any different even when the light was on
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My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
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I just purchased an 06 passat 2.0t with 59,000 miles on it. It has the 2 yr /24k mile warranty I've had it about a week.
Today I noticed something odd. The car is in motion, in an overdrive gear, idling (about 1500 rpm). When I push the accelerator lightly, I feel a very faint "pop" or "click" in both feet on the floorboard and can hear a faint click noise as the RPM increases. This happens at any speed, but is more noticable at higher speeds. Again, it is still hardly noticeable at all.
What concerns me is that it is a repeatable condition. Is this something I should worry about now or perhaps wait and see how it develops before worrying about it? It should be noted that there is no gear change when this happens.
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I've got an '88 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon: 5-speed, 225K miles, that's been acting up over the last year. She doesn't burn oil (qt in 1500 typical) and appears to still be tight. The Turbo works and bearings make no noise. The engine service light does NOT glow (but I admit I haven't checked the bulb). I do have a Haynes manual and have been using it to assist with some results (see replaced items), but I'm not trained on this car and this manual is woefully lacking in good diags for some obvious things. (IMG: [URL] .....)
Symptoms: She cold starts OK, but try to restart warmed at all and she usually has to sit at least an hour or no go. Outside temp seems to make little difference. There's a gassy smell while cranking warm and it's very much like a flooded carburetor engine. Often, the engine will finally catch with the pedal floored after a long crank. Also, after warming and driving a few minutes, the idle erratically will not return to normal, sitting up at 1800-2700 RPM for a bit before finally calming down. It was also running a little rough. There's a fair amount of carbon at the exhaust pipe and MPG is only ~20 and I'm a light foot. The idle RPM varies a bit much moving around between 600-1100 RPM warm.
What I've done this year: It had a broken thermostat (replaced), failing alternator (replaced), failed starter (replaced), failing fuel pump (replaced with filter), recent oil change (has turned black after 800 miles). Most grounds around engine and firewall and 12 volt ignition contacts cleaned. The bat cables were cleaned and terminals coated. Ohm tested the injectors OK (all exactly the same, on spec) and they all "click" in operation. I replaced a bad coil (low ohms by 20% for both primary and 2nd) and changed the carbon fouled plugs (which were also ill-gapped by some hamhand), both of which worked for the roughness considerably. The plug wires all came up roses well under 10k ohms. The battery was a suspect for testing low so much when resting, but the alternator seems to have slowly fixed that (and problems come when system is charging OK). However, the main warm start and idle problem persists. (IMG: [URL] ....)
My next good guess: An obvious rich condition exists and, having eliminated quite a few other things, a sticking "Air Control Valve" seems the likely suspect (some call it an idle control valve but I'm going by the manual). My specific observations of this device: after a warm no start, I pulled the ACV electrical lead and she fired right up and idled well at 16-1800 RPM. I plugged it back in and she chugged and nearly died before idling ~800 RPM. As it idled normally, I pulled the rubber hose from the upstream air connection to the ACV and it chugged and died within 5 seconds. I noted the vacuum was very strong. Putting the hose on, it wouldn't restart till I removed the electrical lead again. The ACV circuit has continuity at the device but I haven't ohm tested it yet. My best diag is the mechanical part of the ACV is gummed up or worn out. The Haynes manual was almost no way in arriving at this conclusion. (IMG: [URL] ....)
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Have 2014 XC-90 w/10k miles. Problem is sporadic (has happened approx 10-15 times over past year).
From standing stop (stop light, etc) -- press on accelerator and VERY LITTLE to no acceleration. Engine continues to run smoothly -- no indication of fuel starvation, no roughness --- just no acceleration. It does NOT appear to be transmission oriented because when it finally "kicks in" there is no feeling of transmission shifting or wild tach movement (to indicate that there was a changing of the gears, etc). I get things back to "normal" by pumping the accelerator (usually a reflex action because the are vehicles behind me wanting to "go"). VERY disconcerting issue.
Local Volvo dealer says "cannot find any error messages", etc. My only complaint with the car -- second XC-90 and 5th Volvo.
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I'm a newbie who just took ownership of a 1982 turbo wagon. It's been sitting a while but started right up and ran well for about 20 miles until it began stumbling on acceleration.
The car starts easily and runs smoothly until it gets hot and then it suffers severe hesitation and stumbling. Occasionally it will stall but starts right up again. It has never failed to restart immediately.
On a cool day, it will run smoothly for thirty minutes or more before the problem begins. On a hot day, the problem begins in five minutes.
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I've noticed that my V6 and the 2 dealer's loaners have the same subtle hesitation in 3rd and 4th when acceleration. Casual, everyday accelerating. Less noticeable if you hit it hard.
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I have a 2005 XC90, 2.5T with about 210K miles.
The issue began while driving at about 70mph on the highway. The car acted like it was running out of gas, skipping and hesitating. After getting off the highway the issue persisted. Accelerating from a stop caused the car to once again act like it was running out of gas sputtering and lurching. The CEL came on and it stalled once before getting to an AutoZone. The codes came back as P2177 (too lean off idle bank 1) and P0089 (fuel pressure regulator).
I limped home and parked the car for a few days to check out my options. After a few days the car drove perfectly with no issues. But the issue returned the same as before within a few more days. So here's what I've done thus far....
1. Replaced the fuel pressure sensor (no change)
2. Replaced spark plugs (no change)
3. Replaced fuel filter (car ran perfectly for a few weeks, self clearing the CEL)
4. Ran some Seafoam cleaner through a tank of gas (car continued to run fine)
5. A few days ago the issue returns, same as before
6. Cleaned MAF (no change)
After replacing the fuel filter and running the Seafoam it ran great. Then all of a sudden it's doing the exact same thing again.
I've scoured the web for more info but come up empty handed. My thoughts now lean toward the following...
1. Leak in the turbo system or TCV issue
2. Bad injector(s)
3. Bad coil(s)
4. Failing fuel pump
5. Random O2 sensor freaking out
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I have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:
1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.
2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;
car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.
4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.
5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.
6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car
putts a little; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle
lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.
The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:
-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plug Wires
-Spark Plugs
-Distributor Cap (Initially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
-Rotor Button
-Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
-K&N Air Filter
-Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
-Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Gauge Temperature Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-All Vacuum Hoses
-All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Oxygen Sensor
-Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
-Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
-Idle Air Control Valve
-Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
-Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
-Battery
-Radio Suppression Relay
-Throttle Position Sensor
-Fuel Filter
-Timing Belt and Tensioner
-Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)
The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:
1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after
3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning
4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed
5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after
6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional
7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning
8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning
9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM
10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed
11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system
12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation
13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues
14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation
15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected
16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing
17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing
18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail
The following parts have not been changed yet:
-Charcoal Box
-MAF Sensor (No Codes)
-EGR (No Codes)
-EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
-Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
-Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)
Other Issues : Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now
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Dealer is telling me I need a fuel pressure sensor. I was hoping it would be the PEM which is still under the extended warranty. Is the sensor and the PEM one and the same? By the way, 99% of the time the car runs normally. Assuming the sensor and the PEM are different, could the sensor flat out totally fail at any time?
Dealer is suggesting to replace the negative battery cable!! I remember replacing old cables in my old cars, admittedly many decades ago for a few bucks. Even considering that it is a different world now, can a cable cost that much. Dealer is asking Volvo to consider the sensor as warranty or to participate because I had complained about hesitation more than once starting about five years ago, but they found nothing at that time. My complaint is still in their computer system.
2005 Volvo s40 t5
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