Volvo :: EFI-445 - Cannot Get MIL Light To Stay Off And Car Will Not Pass State Inspection
Apr 14, 2011
Can not get MIL light to stay off and car will not pass state inspection. After hooking up laptop to my 96 850GLT and using VOL-FCR the EFI-445 code comes up and also states Pulsed Secondary Air Injection System Pump Signal. Everything seems to be working properly (relays, pump etc.) and vacuum pressure around 18. I have replaced the upstream O2 sensor as my OBD II scanner said that was the problem but after that the scanner was pretty much useless as it lead me in a hundred different areas to check and is getting costly so got the VOL-FCR.
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The mechanic told me the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced but it is not an essential item. Can this be bypassed in order to have the car pass. Its not a safety issue. My car is a 98 and has 147,000 miles on it. It leaks oil, power steering fluid, the heat does not always work and I am shopping for a new car and do not want to spend money on anything not needed
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I've got a 2000 Infiniti Qx4 that I can NOT get to pass inspection. I replaced the engine at 130,000 miles, and since then I've had nothing but problems. I live in TN and I've got to pass emissions testing. The car drives/runs great, no problems. I'm down to code P1105 or something, MAP/solenoid valve... Or maybe it was P10107 or something. Anyways it means the MAF sensor is malfunctioning or I've got bad hoses or electrical connections near the intake. So I replace the MAF. Nope, check engine light still on. I replace the clips on the hoses for the MAF. Nope, still on. I check all the wires n all the hoses. Nope, light still on. Now my mechanic is going on about I might have a bad computer or it might not have accepted the new engine as it was from a different year (still a 3.3L V6 standard of the prior to 2001 model)? My mechanic has been at it for over 2 weeks trying all kinds of stuff but to no avail.
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I have been getting inspection stickers at the same place since 07 without any problems,this time they plug her in to test and the truck stalls and the test machine locks up ,happens multiple times.
They find bent pin on OBD plug and fix but still keeps happening. We are baffled it sounds like a short somewhere but there are no codes or check engine lights on.
The only new thing on the truck is a new flatbed with led tail lights and marker lights. The blinkers flash fast from the leds could they be messing with the computer? I'm going to inspect the engine harness today to make sure there's no wires grounding I don't know what else to check...
2002 F350 7.3L ....
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1996 Chevy 2500 (3/4 Ton) 4x4.
My vehicle inspection wouldn't pass the jounce bumper bracket (stops upper control arm from traveling too far) on the drivers side front. The bracket is rusting out and needs to be repaired or replaced. The bracket is welded to the frame.
Does it sound feasible to cut a bracket off at the wreckers and weld it to my frame?
Do they allow zip disk cutters in Pull a Part?
The passenger side bracket is OK.
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I just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
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My daughter's 2000 Jetta with a 2L has an engine light and codes that state Misfire on 1 and 4. It is intermittent as it only misfires once in a while.. She is in Rolla MO, and I am in Detroit MI. A couple of years ago the car died when she was home and I found a swollen/cracked coil pack. I replaced it with an aftermarket. The plugs and wires were replaced about 30k ago with OEM parts. I am tempted to have the son in-law replace the coil pack with a Bosch unit.
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Having a problem with the hatchback not staying up in cold weather? It's fine as soon as the temp gets over 40 degrees or so. It's a Volvo.....
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My check engine light is on and I read the code with my obd and the problem catalytic converter is bank 1. Which is bank 1?
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I have a 1996 volvo 850 when ever its cold outside my engine doesnt wanna start. when it cranks it doesnt stay going it idles down then stalls. What to look for or why its doing this?
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My friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
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Recently replaced alternator on Volvo 240 dl (covered under warranty). Battery checked numerous times and comes back as working perfectly fine. For some reason the battery is not taking a charge from the alternator or something is draining the battery too fast for the alternator to charge the battery. Regardless, after driving the car to and from the car either will not start (but jump starts instantly).
Upon the car breaking down yet again today and attempting to drive it home the car lost all power and shut down while driving down the road. The first noticeable thing was the gas gauge dropping slowly from 3/4 to empty and then all power loss. Upon hooking jumper cables up and 'charging' by another vehicle the Volvo would again drive for a short period of time before the same thing happened.
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We just brought a 2000 S70 Volvo 5 cyl. sadan. There is a problem when we start it up. Initially it starts up fine, but when you put it into drive, the rpms do not stay constant enough to keep the engine from stalling out. When you restart it, the problem repeats and repeats about five or six times, until the problem corrects itself. If in an effort to increase the rmps by applying the gas pedal, the problem may cease, but not always. Once the rpms remain constant, there are no longer any problems with the engine.
This problem is not a constant. It mostly happens when the engine is cold, but it can also happen when the car has been running and then turned off. When you turn on the warmed up engine, the problem happens again. Because we anticipate the repairs on a Volvo are likely to be expensive, we would like to have an idea of what could cause this problem and an anticipated cost.
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I have a 1992 volvo 940 about a month ago I started noticing a burning smell and it was my brakes, they also make a squeaking sound and I took it to my mechanic upon which they will need to be replaced. Today I notice my battery,brake and system lights all came on and stayed on while I drove about 4 miles. Can something to do with my brakes needing repair?
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I have a 2004 Camry XLE and the CAT does not heat up and be in ready state. After using SCANTOOL on the computer, it does not pick up any reading for O2 Sensor bank 2. I have changed a new o2 sensor at the bottom of the care by the oil pan. Still it does not provide any data. thus it leads me to believe that it's an electrical, fuse, or OBD computer has issue. So I am asking - do the O2 Sensor has fuses/use fuses?
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Prius 2006. Twice in recent weeks I have visited my son in Maine (I live in Massachusetts). While there, I attempted to lock my Prius by pressing the lock button on the door. It didn't work, I got a long beep. I was able to lock the car by pressing the lock button on the remote.
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Is it safe to rev the engine while in inspection mode (forced idle). Someone has a question about checking for valve noise in the top thread about common 2G problems in the maintenance discussion, and I unsure about giving advice concerning revving the engine via the throttle motor. I will mention, I suppose, the check engine light will turn on.
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I am starting to work on my 93 ranger when funds are there. But my question is do i need a Cat. for PA state emissions? I have heard you do but then I hear you don't. I have also heard a few things on the fuel millage and power.... Looking for some info on this because I am not trying to cut it off and have to go back and fix it again... I want to do it once and be done with that part!
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A month ago I bought a 2007 Prius with 140,000 km. I notice that the state of charge drops into the 'red' bars within about 20 minutes of the car switched on, in Park with no accessories running. A mechanic connected his diagnostic computer and saw 2 cells are low. However, the mechanic informs me there is no value in replacing those cells as others are likely to go down, thereafter. Is there anything I can do to avoid having to replace the entire traction battery?
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I just failed inspection because check engine light is on. The codes state that catalytic converter and O2 sensor are "not ready". I understand it has to do with the computer but not much else. Someone on Mazda 6 message board provided a complicated sequence of driving instructions including maintaining various speeds and RPMs for specific lengths of time which they said would reset the computer. My mechanic is at a loss. This car is a lemon and I would just like to get the inspection done so I can trade it in and get something that doesn't keep breaking.
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My local dealer had a special on an oil change, tire rotations, and break inspection and my 2011 Elantra GLS auto w/ 20k miles was due so I took it in.
After I got it back I noticed a noise I had never heard before when reaching speeds above 45mph. The best word to describe it would be "thumping".
I figured maybe due to the rotation the tires might need to settle in, but I've drove about 50 miles since getting it back and the noise isn't even slightly going away.
The worse part is my avg. MPG went from easily/consistently being 40+ down to low 38/high 37.
Should I just give it some more time or start to worry the service guys messed something up? Until today it's been the perfect car.
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