Volvo :: Dashboard Only Works At Cold Condition?
Jan 31, 2016
I have a 2005 VOLVO TRACTOR, Autoshift, Cummins ISX. Recently the Dashboard only works at "cold" condition, after 5~20 minutes of starting the engine, the information Display shows up: check lights control module, check vehicle ECU, check air bag, check climate module, finally show "check datalink". Speedmetre, RPM, oil pressure, water temperature gauges and gear position are all dead, only Fuel, Air, Pressure and Turbo gauges work. We have replaced new dashboard, but nothing changed. And we checked J1939 communication wire OHMS is 60 at either back of dashboard plugs and data link. All modules are working good except information module. When dash was out, we did connect the laptop via datalink. We could communicate with ECU normally. The problem looks like the dashboard is so sensitive and easily quits working. We had checked batteries and main ground cables and all fuses. We did the test, after removing all lights control module fuses, ABS module fuse, climate fuse etc., the dashboard sometimes works
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I own a 2005 volvo s40 i5. Recently I noticed that my dashboard gets extremely hot after just couple minutes of driving. Originally I thought this has something to do with the car's black interior. However, my suspicion changed when I noticed that the dashboard became very hot even on cold rainy days. (Below 60 degrees) This presented couple issues while driving.
1) On cold days, my windshield would fog up very easily.
2) on hot days, the cabin of the car can be intolerably hot. Both of my check engine light and my airbag warning lights are on.
However, auto mechanics cannot diagnose the problem because they can't get a reading through the diagnostic scanner. They said most likely the car has a electrical short somewhere.
What the problem is? Could it be an electrical short that cause excessive heat in the dash? Maybe the engine heat is venting into the dashboard? Fix?
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I have a few questions about my 1987 240 DL volvo. First, it's been making a funny, whiny, rattling noise (mostly centered in the dashboard area) whenever it get's too cold outside. I know that taking apart a dashboard on an old volvo is really hard, but it the noise worth the effort? So far I've noticed no problems with how the car runs. Second, there is a small button on the left side of the gear changer, when a press it a lighted forward arrow appears under my speedometer. What is this button for?
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2006 Passat 2.0t. With the engine cold, the a/c will blow warm until the engine gets up to operating temp and the rad fan kicks on. After that, it will stay on and blow cold all day. I would think the rad fan should kick on as soon as I turn on the a/c to get air flow moving across the condenser as in every other car I have ever owned.
Does rad fan kick on as soon as you turn on the a/c? I'm thinking that i might have a problem with a relay that suppose to kick the rad fan on. I used my VAG.com software and its showing no faults.
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My car has been in and out of my mechanics with no resolution to my problem.
When I press my AC button, a number of warning dashboard lights on my dashboard turn on, check engine, oil pressure, abs, air bag (pretty sure all of them). Each time this happens, I have my mechanic clear the warning lights in my dash. And no, the AC does not turn on.
I don't have any warning lights on my dash, and driving the car without pressing the AC button for weeks doesn't trigger any warnings. Once the AC is pressed, I get almost all of them, within a minute. The codes that his computer read are failure to communicate signals.
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I have a mk4 gli and the a/c is not blowing cold, or remotely cool. When I turn on the a/c the engine drops rpm's like it is engaging, or whatever, but doesn't get cold. I checked under the hook and it sounds like something is trying to come on every 10 seconds or so...it's like the engine jumps or something. The fan on the passenger side is coming on if that means anything but the driver side doesn't when a/c is turned on.
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A friend of a friend has a 1990 Escort 1.9L automatic with a TBI setup. It has a random no-start condition that only seems to act up when its cold outside (below 20 F). I've only seen it act up once with minimal testing equipment, so I'm digging for answers.
The injector fires normally and flooring the pedal goes into clear-flood mode as it should. It has spark, but sounds out of time. It will attempt to fire unless the pedal is floored long enough to take fuel away. Starting fluid in addition to the fuel makes minimal difference, but results in intake backfires when you stop cranking. After a random amount of cranking, it will eventually fire and then the issue goes away completely.
Once it fired, I was able to shut it down and restart it indefinitely with no hesitation. While running, it shown no signs of being out of time, vacuum leaks, etc. I have very little experience with the EEC system, but friends suggest a TFI module. A weak or mistimed spark seems to be the cause, but I'd like a second opinion. I shook and moved every wire I could find and checked the TFI pins for corrosion - no change.
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My Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
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My dashboard turns off . I have it disassembled and redo all welds. But nothing changed. However, disconnecting some lamps, it light on . Do you think that can come from L4925N ?
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My roommate has a 2006 S60 Volvo. One day the passenger turn signal just stopped working. It only works if the high beam is on. The driver side turn signal works fine and so do the emergency flashers. It's not the bulb, not the fuse, not the turn signal lever, and she even took it in the shop and they couldn't figure out the problem without replacing the DIM which would cost a lot.
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I have an 02 S60 T5. Everything on my dash is dead. It on occasion works for a minute in the morning when extremely cold but then as always the ABS light comes on with the red exclamation mark below or above it and the message centre saying brake failure, please stop immediately. Of course no break failure, when it the dash does work all functions work fine. But the most I get out of it is a minute or so. It does not track mph and speed/odometer does not work, message centre etc.
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I have a 1995 945SET the rear washer pump works but no water comes out of the nozzle, where do I find the rear washer nose and how do I get into it to repair or replace it?
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I have a 2002 V70XC, and all of the dashboard instruments have completely gone out, no speedometer, gas guage, odometer, etc. My Volvo mechanic doesn't want to touch this, he says that the whole thing needs to be replaced, and I should go to a dealer. I can't believe that this is that bad?
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I have had an S60 since 2001, 2.0 petrol first and then a 2003 D5.
I am having problems with my message center and my indicator. The message center won't display anything. It just a mass of jumbled letter moving about. The indicator lights and sound won't work on the dashboard although they are working fine outside.
The dealer say that a new dashboard is needed, which is very expensive. Any fix to this? a reboot maybe?
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My "bulb out" dashboard indicator came on and after checking all lights I could not find a burnt out bulb. I took the car to the local dealer and they told me the "bulb failure relay" was bad and needed replacing. I decided to try and replace it myself but so far I'm not doing to good.
I found this picture on another website and also read that the realy is permantly mounted to the relay board. Also, when I looked at pictures of the replacement relay they lok nothing like the original.
So now I'm wondering how the heck do you take the old relay out and get the new one in that doesn't at all look like the original?
Attached File(s) : RelayPanel760960A.gif ( 31.06K )
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All of the gauges - - temp, speedometer, tach, gas gauge - - as well as the dome lights and sun roof opener, faded out on my 2003 Volvo V70. I replaced all the fuses and the dome light and sunroof now work. But none of the gauges are back. Can it be fixed without replacing the console?
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I first thought it was just a cold thing, but now it's not starting at all in a warmed garaged. The electrical system seems to go in and out, makes this crazy clicking kind of noise, and eventually will make the dashboard lights go entirely, the message system saying then the breaks have failed, pull over, etc., On a cold morning it won't crank, and when it finally does it will immediately shut off. Once I finally overcome it, the electrical system clicks and clicks, and eventually will lose dashboard lights and functions... no turn signal, nothing.
If I can get driving for 15 minutes or so without the electrical interference happening, it will run fine like normal and I can restart the car fine the rest of the day... but the next morning (especially if cold) I go through the process again.
Now it's just not cranking at all...it's clicking, but it sounds like a louder clicking than a dead battery... it's like the electrical system is overriding it entirely and won't let me get the car started at all.
Other symptoms: when I get the key near the ignition (not putting it in) the clicking of the electric system starts. Interior lights flicker, etc. Today it won't start.
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I am a new Volvo XC90 owner/fan. The issue is my lovely 2006 XC90 2.5T started to show the bizarre 'No Oil Pressure. Stop Engine.' dash board message red color.
First things I checked right after seeing that message.
Engine oil level - FINE (actually full).
Engine oil - CLEAN and recently replaced.
I drove 100 miles and the weather was peaceful 40f degrees (5c). The sign would come and off intermittently and stayed there for some time. We were luckily at the destination so we stopped the car and did our biz.
After a couple of hours we started the engine, drove a car, came back home driving 100 miles back without an issue.
But after a day, actually today, I saw the same message again. It was intermittently again and then would stay. If I restart the engine the message would go away but then would come back after sometime of driving.
So I called a couple of normal non-Volvo repair shops and they didn't know what the issue is and didn't even know why I would check the engine pressure. So OK pass.
I called Volvo dealer and he said if it is a 'low engine oil' message you can just top it up but if it is a 'engine pressure' message then the issue can be huge so he advised to tow the car in.
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Just trying to get a list of possible reasons my car is acting funny. I may have one problem or more than one problem.
-The dashboard lights started going on and off intermittently while driving. I could feel the power steering was off but the engine never shut off. This happened first while I was running the A/C, but eventually started happening when the A/C was off. When the A/C was on, the car made a funny squeal sound then more of a grinding. The A/C stopped blowing cold air.
-The same thing would happen when driving through water/rain (the dashboard lights would come on and it felt like the car died but it didnt).
-The other night, the SRS light came on, cars electrical started shutting off. Car died. Jump started it, it ran for a couple miles, then died again. This happened the whole 12 mile trip home.
-Mechanic came over, said it was my battery. Replaced battery. Car died again 3 days later. I noticed the lights on the dashboard came on more while making a turn, but they came on while driving too, so idk if that is a good assumption.
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2000 Chevy s10 ... The cold air works great however the heat doesn't seem to work at all. The defrost works but only cold air comes out even if I have the blend door on full heat. What the possibilities are. I couldn't find the blend door on the passenger side, I've checked the hoses and they seem fine, except for the following pic... Could this have to do with the loss of heat?
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The air conditioning in my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer works but never gets really cold. What is the best course of action to get it working better? A do it yourself kit or an auto repair shop?
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