I recently replaced the head gasket on my 740 turbo. I still have coolant in my oil and it smells like fuel. I pulled the plugs and there is no coolant on them and they have some carbon on them. Is it possible for the coolant and oil to mix elsewhere? Like the turbo?
View 11 RepliesAfter like 20 minutes drive, my car smells like coolant. but it doesn't leak or something. The coolant is on max, and doesn't move at all. so whats that smell. Everybody said you are leaking coolant, but it isn't.
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 mercury mountaineer 4.0 smells like coolant there r no visible leaks overflow is at the normal the temp gauge didn't go high and the cap is cold IM kinda confused...........
View 9 RepliesI have a 99 Ford F-150 Lariat. I am smelling oil in my coolant reservoir. I have looked all over the engine and do not see any leaks. I do not see any oil on the ground. The truck does not overheat so I don't know how it is getting in. My engine runs great. What can be causing this problem?
View 2 RepliesI have owned my 2005 v10 ex since 60000 miles. Have had many dependable family road trips and love my truck.
Recently it has started puking coolant and the overflow tank smells like exhaust. The oil cap has some coolant sludge on it. But there is no coolant mixed with the oil. Or oil in the coolant.
I am pretty certain these are the signs of failing head gaskets. The truck has 193000 miles on it now.
Want to keep it on course. But keep it reliable. So do I buy new engine or do I just replace head gaskets?
I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
View 3 RepliesMy wife's 08 santa fe had its fuel pump replaced 2 weeks ago and has been smelling like gas ever since. I thought this would go away but it hasn't. Should I demand it be towed back to the dealer tomorrow?
View 2 RepliesOne of the fuel lines on our 2007 Subaru Outback needed to be replaced (rodent damage). Now the car reeks of gasoline. The dealer said it will take time to dissipate. How we can speed up the process?
View 5 RepliesI have a 97 f 150 with the 4.2 bad miss on # 6 changed plugs and wires still missing. Also have a bad tick and exhaust smells like fuel. Check engine light is blinking.
View 10 RepliesNewbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
I have a 1994 volvo 850 turbo wagon. While replacing the pcv breather system, I dropped a little metal clip that attaches the fuel line to the fuel rail with a t25 torx screw. I can't find the clip. What the part is called or where it can be found?
View 1 RepliesFuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
View 1 RepliesI am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
Back again, with the 1994-ish Volvo 940 with many miles on it.
Symptoms reported by son: coolant leak near firewall (radiator hoses replaced a few weeks ago); maybe some pressure in cooling system; some oily stuff in the coolant in the radiator.
Shop's diagnosis: transmission cooler leaking. (Well at least it's not the head gasket!)
Recommend : Replace radiator, cap (sure), thermostat (all right, but we get rid of this car in six weeks), and ... flush the transmission (alarm!).
Usual advice is drain and refill tranny, rather than flush. However, seems to me that with high risk of coolant in trans fluid, flush is the right action.
Lost coolant after dealer replaced a new fuel pump.
Before I start car, the level of coolant is Max and tank cap is tight. Driving back home and stop engine, the coolant level is still Max. Second day, coolant is lost and tank cap is a little loose. No more coolant loss if leaving it at home without driving. If I topped up the tank, after two days driving, coolant level is lower than MIN.
I did not find any leaks, like fuel tank and passenger's side floor.
Is it possible that tank cap causes this coolant loss?
I have a 2001 Volvo V70. Yesterday I noticed that the low coolant light came on when I tried to start the car, but it went off after a minute or two. I kept an eye on the temperature gauge and didn't see anything amiss. When my wife tried to start the car this morning, the low coolant light came on again, but the car wouldn't start -- it turns over but sputters out after a second or two. I checked the coolant and it was indeed pretty low (should have done it the night before, I realize). So, I'm trying to figure out what's up here -- the car didn't seem to generally overheat, but something has gone wrong. Fuel pump or something similar?
View 6 RepliesI'm the guy with the XC90 in Gabon. Someone brought me some power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil,......but I forgot to ask for radiator fluid....crap!
Today I got the red triangle and low coolant warning...topping it off with water made it go away, but I need some fluid. I can't get Pentosin radiator fluid here. Is there another kind of radiator fluid I can put in the car that will mix with the existing stuff? If I just get ethylene glycol base will that work?
Or....If I drain it all,out and start over from scratch...does it matter what kind of fluid I put in?
My elderly mother brought a used 2006 Volvo SR60, in 2008. Later she discovered that the radiator light/coolant would blink on in the car. The Coolant was low. She took the car to To Mckevitt Volvo here in the Bay Area. The car was under warranty. McKevitt replaced the radiator
Apparently she kept having problems with the coolant system in the car. She took the car to another car repair place (Ackerman) and they detected a tiny crack in the radiator, but they said it wasn't enough of a leak to cause the leak. Then they suggested replacing the thermostat of the car. Apparently, this is a real costly procedure costing hundreds of dollars. She opted not to do this..
Recently she took the car back to McKevitt Volvo, still because of the coolant problems, the car is no longer under warranty,, Mckevitt held the car for a couple of days, after an inspection for leaks, they told her they could not find any leak, although they cleaned up the car, and didn't charge her for their services.
So now she's paying on a newer model car, , that leaks coolant, but no one knows where....
Does she still have any recourse, what should she do? She's an older person in her 60's so she needs her car and doesn't need a blown head gasket. I suggested, trying one of those "over_the_counter_" radiator, coolant system seal, to stop any leak, are these safe to use?
I recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common? 2005 Xc90 2.5t...
I recently purchased a 1997 Volvo 850 and a week ago it began leaking coolant. Currently I am having to refill the coolant every three days.
I have attached two pics. One is a pic of where the coolant pools and the other is a pic of where I am pretty sure the coolant is leaking.
The leak appears to be coming from the connection point at the top driver side of the radiator. I know there is a hose on the same side at the bottom of the radiator directly below the one in the picture. At first I thought that was the source of the leak but later found it was just run off from the leak above.
Does this a common and fixable leak? Or if it is likely an expensive fix? Any other troubleshooting I can do on my end or do I need to take it to a dealer to find out what is going on?
Radiator_Leak.jpg ( 765.54K )
Leak.jpg ( 1.3MB )
1991 940 SE Turbo ... I am trying to figure out why there is no power to the 10 amp fuel pump fuse. Drove the car all day with no issues at all.. The next morning it just wont start. Found it wasn't getting fuel..I have replaced the tank pump thinking a shorted pump would disable the system, I have replaced the in tank Fuel Pump, Nothing. The fuel pump relay, Nothing, and pulled the under car fuel pump and checked it and its fine. I don't get it?? what could it be? I went to the library to get a copy of the wiring diagram, but the Chilton's Mechanic wiring bible was so smudged I could not even read it..
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