Volvo :: Coolant Loss And Tank Cap Loose
Dec 3, 2010
Lost coolant after dealer replaced a new fuel pump.
Before I start car, the level of coolant is Max and tank cap is tight. Driving back home and stop engine, the coolant level is still Max. Second day, coolant is lost and tank cap is a little loose. No more coolant loss if leaving it at home without driving. If I topped up the tank, after two days driving, coolant level is lower than MIN.
I did not find any leaks, like fuel tank and passenger's side floor.
Is it possible that tank cap causes this coolant loss?
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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Volvo Automatic 1992 240 - So, just started to back out of the garage and, all of a sudden, my gear shift got stuck in neutral and then started shifting without engaging the transmission at all. Pushed it back into the space and, taking a look underneath, I realize the control rod's completely detached from the lever in the transmission.
I can re-attach it, but it just comes loose again when I shift. It seems like something should be in there to hold the control rod in place with the transmission lever, but I don't know what because I can't seem to find any documentation on what everything should look like down there.
Attaching a couple shots, one with a circle around the area that's coming un-attached since the angle's a bit off.
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So i have a 2010 gti stage 2 uni, when i have a half tank of gas or less when it reaches about 4000rpm it will loose power harshly that it almost makes u eat the steering wheel, but when it has more than half a tank of gas it drives just fine. I get low pressure fuel rail code when scaned with vagcom...
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I have a 2005 jetta 2.0 Once it gets under half a tank I lose power, it acts like it's running out of gas. It only does it in warmer weather (this started in march when we took it to Florida, once it got back in the cold weather it didn't do it again until 2 days ago when it was in the 70's). I took it to he mechanic I've used since I got the car (he works exclusively on vw and audis). It didn't do it to him in the two weeks he had it, he couldn't find anything wrong that would cause the issue.
He did do a complete tune up, replaced both of my fans and coolant. I ended up replacing the coolant temp sensor myself since that decided to go bad after I got it back. It lost power after getting the car back again warm weather and just under half a tank of gas. Prior to the Florida trip the water pump, timing belt and starter were replaced. I had my fuel pump replaced in 2014. It is an automatic with 157k miles on it.
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Hesitation and power loss have returned. I removed all four spark plugs and found that the spark plug on the driver side of the engine, or side closest to the inverter, and its coil pack were covered in dried/sticky oil with no loose oil present around them. Pics added to new post #11 of coil pack and spark plug.
I couldn't find anything that really matched the symptoms I was having this afternoon on the way home from work. After letting the engine idle for about a minute to get through Stage 1, I pulled out of work but noticed I kept hearing a slight whining from the inverter (radio was off and windows were down) while going uphill on the road out of our parking lot. Speed was in the range of 25 to 30 MPH.
Torque showed I was pulling between 10 and 20 amps from the HV battery but what I noticed that was REALLY weird was that the timing advance gauge showed I was running around 2 to 3 degrees (?) instead of normally being around 13 or 14+ depending on how quickly I'm accelerating.
And the more acceleration I demanded, the the more amps were coming from the battery and the RPMs on the engine would go up, but the timing advance still remained below 10 degrees. I didn't hear any knocking but I could definitely feel the lack of power.
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I can see no sign of oil leakage or oil burning. The car runs great, about 159M miles. Yet, it goes through 4 qts of oil every 1000 miles. If you don't check it frequently, it suddenly is 'dry' and takes several quarts to bring back on the stick to full. There is a little puff when first starting of light smoke, then nothing out of the ordinary.
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We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
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Recently my old workhorse started coughing and stalling. This isn't consistent at all. I'll be driving and the car will lose power and come back to life. It also stalls at stop signs. Brought to my mechanic and left it for a week with him and he can't figure it out. 1988 Volvo 240 over 200,000....
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Took my 850 Turbo out on the freeway today, and when I put the pedal to the floor on the onramp there was a very disconcerting loss of power just as the turbo was really kicking in. No issue under mild to medium boost, but when pushed hard there is a short loss of power/hesitation, almost like a backfire, then boosts again, then the same power loss until I back off on the gas. Cannot get full boost without this happening.
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I recharged the battery overnight figuring I could get the car turned on then remove one of the battery terminals to verify faulty alternator. However, car would not turn over, Id only get what sounded like a click from the starter. Fine, I figured, the alt killed the battery so I went and purchased a new one and installed it. Car would still not start and Id still get the click from what I believe is the starter. Tried the old bang the starter with a hammer and still nothing. Checked the connectors to the starter and all seemed ok.
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Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
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I loosened coolant pump belt when my gen II prius had only 200 miles on it. I retensioned it approximately 70% less. Where I could turn water pump pully by hand breaking traction with drive belt using all my strength.
The ice coolant pump just started to leak at the weep hole at only 63000 miles and 5 years old. I was sure the reduced tension would make coolant pump last much longer.
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