Volvo :: Check Engine Light Due To O2 Sensor Is Bad - OBD Code P0455?
Jun 2, 2013
2004 XC90 T6. Local Volvo dealer (Bangkok at the time) said my check engine light was due to the O2 sensors going bad. I changed out the one under the car, then my wife threw out (accident) the other so I didn't change the one accessible from the hood. The check engine light went away so I figured that was that.
Fast forward a year later, I buy an Autel Maxiscan MS509 and now I'm getting check engine code P0455 which is probably the O2 sensors I didn't replace. Other than deductive reasoning, is there some way to look at the data on my OBD reader to confirm which O2 sensor is bad?
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Yesterday from the smart center of Rochester, MN I bought a 2013 Smart fortwo Pure with 19k miles. This evening the Check Engine Light came on and it is code P0455.
No other dash lights are on and I have not even touched the gas cap yet. Should I clear the code? Take it to the dealer? Tow it to the dealer?
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Now, I just bought a 07 Yukon which seems to be in a great condition. The check engine light just popped up so I went to a mechanic and he said the code is p0455.
He did a smoke test and showed me that smoke is coming out of the rear of the vehicle at the gas tank area and the car needs the vent valve solenoid changed, but it's only sold at dealer.
So u went to dealer and got this part and decided to change it myself which was quite easy and fun.
I went back to clear the light, then a week later the light came back on, so I went back to him thinking maybe I didn't do it right, so he did another smoke test and sure enough we see smoke coming out of the rear again, so I looked under the car and saw it was coming out of the end of the vent valve assembly which I think is a small air filter. Is that normal? Or is the part defective?
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2001 volvo s40. Diagnostics performed. Error codes for the timing belt and temperature sensor. These were replaced. The check engine light still comes on/stays on.
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1994, 960 ... The vacuum controller has two "vacuum lines" attached to it. Should both lines have vacuum present? I keep getting a 241 code with sporadic idle and check engine light.
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I have a 2008 nissan frontier SE 4x4 with 71K on her. I'm getting two codes from my checking engine light P0455 and P0447. The gas cap is new and tight.
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I have a 92 volvo 240 and have recently got a check engine light. I got a code reading of #241 on number 6 terminal. What that means and how to correct this problem?
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I bought a 2005 Volvo V70 with 75,500 miles on Nov. 13. On Nov. 15, the check engine light went on, and I returned to the dealership for a solenoid replacement. The check engine light went on again on Nov. 17, oil pan replaced. On Nov. 19, the light went on again, timing belt replaced. On Nov. 22, the light went on again. Each time the code was the same--sometimes in conjunction with other codes--but one code was consistent. We returned the car on Nov. 22 and asked for a refund in keeping with the Massachusetts lemon law (an attempt at repair 3+ times). The dealer refused, saying the check engine light and computer code were not the same as an attempted repair. He took the car and said he was going to call Volvo Tech in. However, he says the light "went off" and never came back on even though his staff has test driven it 170 miles in the past three days. He's "releasing our car" to us, even though he has made no repair. Tell me--is trying to address the same computer code considered a "repair"?
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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I have a 2012 hyundai accent. The check engine light came on. The code read knock sensor. Before I could get it into a shop, it went off. It didn't come back for 11 months. When it did come back, the same code was read. Again, it went off the following day before it could be looked at and hasn't been seen since. The shop says that even though there is a history code, it would be hard to diagnose since it isn't an active code. I noticed absolutely no difference in performance when the code was active. Both times it went on, the car was idling for several minutes with the ac on, and it came on as i accelerated onto a highway immediately afterwards. However, it has idled like that many other times without the light coming on as well.
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I've been having an issue with my car and the check engine light is on.
The code reads : P0030
Heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1
heater control circuit
2001 VW GTI VR6 ....
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My 2005 Camry check engine light is on. The trouble code is P0138, bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Engine is the 2AF-ZE. Not a California emission car. Car is Japan built. It has two O2 sensors. What is the correct OEM part #? I believe it would be a Denso?
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So, I have my check engine light and the code is p0327 (knock sensor). Clear cose but it returns. Going on for 3 days now. I was suspicious that something else is going on. I also remembered I've been using a little more antifreeze in the reservoir. So, today I needed to watch the coolant. I ran the car for an hr and I found a lot. Red coolant on my belt, the back passenger side of my engine and it was caked on with coolant. I think the water pump is going up.
I was concerned that coolant was also leaking from the intake manifold but it's only the right side, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is being slung around from the belt. I rinsed the engine down and the knock sensor code went away. Temporarily, until more coolant got back there. Do you think I will need to replace the knock sensor along with the water pump or should the sensor work ok after some intense cleaning after the water pump replacement?
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This issue pertains to a 2006 Camry LE 4-cyl.
My check engine light came on - code P0032 (upstream O2 sensor). I bought a new sensor from O'Reilly Auto Parts. After installing the new sensor, the car would jerk while accelerating. This continued to happen until roughly 30 miles or so when the engine light came back on and the jerking stopped! I re-scanned the car and it showed the same error - P0032. I then erased the code, and the jerking issue resumed.
I assumed this was caused by a faulty O2 sensor. I returned and got another one. Same issue.
Is this the result of not getting an OEM sensor from the dealer? Or is there something else I should be worried about?
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135. What is wrong and how I can fix this?
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I cleaned my k&n air filter on my 02 passat 1.8 turbo let it dry oiled it very lightly, and 50 miles later I get a check engine light on, pulled the code 16486 and it says Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input. Cleared the code put a frame in until I can get it filter. Why that would throw me that code, k&n oil gumming up my sensor??
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1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
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I have a 2006 Pontiac Montana SV6 with 80,000 miles on it. Recently the dashboard warning "check gas cap" has started coming on. I have replaced the gas cap and cleared the code and it is doing it again. It seems like it is more likely to do it when the gas tank is 1/2 or less full but it also did it today with almost a full tank. The code from the computer said P0455, what this could be?
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My '03 Tacoma Prerunner V6 has 116K miles and recently lit up its Check Engine light, returning a code for a failed up-stream air/fuel sensor. I recently drove across country, using many different fuel formulations ranging from CA gas to midwest ethanol to whatever they put in the gas here in the NY-NJ area (a mystery ingredient that seems to turn motorists irate and confuse their horn as a turn signal.)Anyway- age, or fuel, what killed the sensor? If fuel, will it happen again by time I get back west?
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Just over 6000 miles....Yesterday morning the light came on. Dealer wouldn't look at it for a week. Went to my mechanic this morning to check the code it was p0181 fuel temp sensor. I read something online about the block heater making it too warm. The other night it was cold so I plugged it in, then yesterday morning it got warm overnight like into the lower 40s. I noticed the grill felt warm too. My mechanic cleared it if it comes back on do I have an issue? Is it ok to drive?
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I have a 92 Volvo 240 (250k) with EGR (California car). I live in Alabama, no EGR needed here. There is check engine code that points to the EGR. It has been exhibiting all the symptoms of a defective EGR for quite a spell, check engine light just showing up recently.
Should I clean it, replace it ...or just take it off entirely. If I remove it, what needs to be done with that removal (such as ECU adjustment, replacement)?
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