Volvo :: Check Stop Lamp Message Showing Up - Third Brake Light Out
Dec 26, 2012
I have the "check stop lamp" message showing up. Both right and left brake lights are fine but the third brake light is totally out. I've heard of other Volvos having issues with the wiring harness near the hinge.
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My car is 2012 Hyundai Elantra. Everytime I press Start/Stop button to ACC position, I get this warning message "Check stop lamp fuse" (see attached picture).
All stop lamps are working, stop lamp fuse in engine compartment is fine. How to remove this message?
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I have a 2006 Sonata. My check engine light came on and also my ESC light. My car does not accelerate. It takes literally about 40 seconds to get up to 20 miles an hour. I called the hyundai 800 number and they said there is a recall for a "stop lamp switch malfunction".
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I went to my dealer to tell them that I had the sensor light showing "check brake pads" after the normal service at 75000km I left the dealer and the same problem showed.
I returned and was told everything was fine with the pads but to fix the sensors was "not worth it".
A few days later the screen showed I had a flat tire and after trying everything it would not go away after resets etc etc..
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After fixing no brake lights on my 86' 740 I still can't get the inner ones to work. To fix the problem I changed the brake lamp failure relay. The bulbs are good. The relay was used.
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I have a 2011 F-150 Supercab 4x4 and the brake warning system is starting to drive me nuts. A couple of months ago the warning light came on along with a message to check brake system. I didn't find anything wrong, even flushed the hydraulic system. all seemed OK. Now the warning came back on, the message center will reset and the warning light will reset after shutting off the truck.
I can drive in city/town and the warning does not come on. But if I drive open road for about 30 miles with out using the brakes I get the warning again. I'll reset the message center and it'll clear, then about every 10 miles it chimes and shows to check brake system. It is strange that that I can drive hundred of miles in town using the brakes and not warning but get on the open road and not using the brakes I get the warning after 30 miles.
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I am a new Volvo XC90 owner/fan. The issue is my lovely 2006 XC90 2.5T started to show the bizarre 'No Oil Pressure. Stop Engine.' dash board message red color.
First things I checked right after seeing that message.
Engine oil level - FINE (actually full).
Engine oil - CLEAN and recently replaced.
I drove 100 miles and the weather was peaceful 40f degrees (5c). The sign would come and off intermittently and stayed there for some time. We were luckily at the destination so we stopped the car and did our biz.
After a couple of hours we started the engine, drove a car, came back home driving 100 miles back without an issue.
But after a day, actually today, I saw the same message again. It was intermittently again and then would stay. If I restart the engine the message would go away but then would come back after sometime of driving.
So I called a couple of normal non-Volvo repair shops and they didn't know what the issue is and didn't even know why I would check the engine pressure. So OK pass.
I called Volvo dealer and he said if it is a 'low engine oil' message you can just top it up but if it is a 'engine pressure' message then the issue can be huge so he advised to tow the car in.
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My Lexus was working fine till yesterday, but today when I started (button press) it, it started giving me a Check VSC error and Check engine light along with Slip Indicator started showing up
Took it to Autozone for the codes and got
P0015
P0304
C1201
B2799
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I have a Camry 2007, V6 and 3 weeks ago speedometer stop working and brake light, ABS light and check engine light came ON.
I had the car checked and P0500 code saying speedometer malfunction. All 4 speed sensors has been checked OK, computer engine replaced nothing change, all 3 lights are on and speedometer is not working.
I also noticed if I pull the connector from SKID control ECU I do have the same lights ON so with or without the connector plugged the same lights are on. Looks like no communication between SKID control ECU and....
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It's been pretty cold the last few days and tonight when I was coming home the car told me to stop and check the coolant.. and servicve manual....what does this mean...I have read to check the coolant level (pink G12 stuff)...the resevoir is full....could something be frozen??
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I've got a 2005 Volvo V50. High Mileage (230000). Timing belt replaced at 200k. Runs really nice, until this evening. Inserted the key and turned over but instead of starting it made whirring robot noises and read "brake failure message" and "immobilizar" after turning key to off position. It's really cold out. 0 degrees. What's the next move?
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There is an arm that has come loose and is in between the spring in the right rear wheel well area and I cannot find what its called. It comes out from the center of the car and down and has an upside down cup which belongs on a post with 4 little contacts. Additionally, my brake lamp indicator light was intermittently coming on and off after braking. Now that I have put the cup back on, the lamp is off. I want to be sure there isn't anything else missing from this part, but cannot find the name and am concerned as to how it came off its post to begin with.
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I started back up again and 10 seconds later it came back on, but then went away for the rest of the 30-minute commute. Went out during lunch today and there's no message.
I'm gonna do a vagcom scan when i get home, but wanted to know if there's any history of brake fluid leaking and needing to be topped of.
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I have a 2000 passat 1.8T and the ABS light and brake light comes on and shortly after the "stop, break fault "message shows up. The warning does not come on every time I drive the car only sometimes. Brake fluid has been topped off and everything else seems fine. Is it a bad sensor somewhere? Something else maybe?
My check engine light is also on and the code is p0118. I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor but I still get the code. Was there some secret way to replace it that I didn't know about? Something else I should check?
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1. I think my battery is getting weak.... when i cranked it, it didnt sound strong and the original battery eye says to add distilled water. I am thinking about getting a replacement battery at Costco.
2. so right after it started, the message of "Check Brake System" shows up. Tried to restart but no go. Drove about 15 miles and all seems fine but message is still there.
* is it OK to replace with a Costco brand battery (they have a great returns policy) and is there anything i need to do before or after replacement?
* could the Check Brake System be due to the weak battery? How can I reset it?
* Anything else that can cause this error message?
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My 2007 LS460L dash light shows VSC system check needed by dealer. What does this mean? When the warning comes, the cruise control and break-hold don't work.
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I have a 2007 Taurus and for some odd reason I get a message saying to check the brake system. Its accompanied by dimming dash lights and symptoms of a bad alternator. I'm suspecting the battery (its from 2009). Sometimes the issue goes away and when I drive and get the car above 1300 rpm it will go away until the next stop light/sign.
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Started the car this morning- and got a message. "Check parking brake system" .
The Auto button for the parking brake seems to flicker, and the park light on the dash blinks. Car make ding sound while driving.
2008 LS460
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i drive a 2007 XC90 V8 with 76000miles and recently i got a power system failure message and battery light went on , so took it to my mechanic and he tested the car and it was tuning out 11volts so he concluded it was the alternator, so he recommended changing the regulator and i got a new regulator made by Bosch and it was installed and upon starting the message came back on and the battery light as well and upon testing it was producing 15.4volts , now its overcharging , what do i need to do ? should i buy another regulator ? as my mechanic says alternators hardly ever get damaged but the regulator is the one that usually gets damaged...
Attached File(s) :
- regulator1.jpg ( 314.57K )
- regulator_2.jpg ( 290.61K )
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140K + and recently had an oil change. I went on a 8 hr road trip split up between 2 days (there and back). On the way home I noticed my oil pressure gauge acting funny, going up and down but not past 40. Today, I drove home from work (10 miles or so) and the check engine light came on and the oil pressure gauge was very low, almost 0. I made it home but was very nervous and noticed both today and this weekend there was smell, burning or burned type smell. What should I do? I don't really trust the garage that changed the oil and was skeptical taking it there but was in a pinch.
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I was driving when the truck made a terrible noise and while pulling over the check engine light went on as well as low oil pressure. I turned off truck and checked but no evidence of any leakage at all. Checked oil stick and was dry. Let sit for an hour and checked oil stick to find about 1/2" showing. Added oil to find that now it was overfull, drained oil back and stick showed proper level. Attempted to drive and it was fine until I came to a stop wherein it would stall with "low oil pressure" showing and check engine light on. Brought to shop and they said engine is very gunked up, they said they could try oil flush but probably will not work. They most likely will have to remove the valve cover and such to physically look at engine and take it from there... (I have always used type of oil stated on the cap, used synthetic and changed every 5-7k miles - showed diagnostic codes p0011, p0340, p0345 and p0021).
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