The condition is the vehicle has a hard start condition after it has run (warmed up) and sat for a short period of time (10-15 minutes). I replaced Thermo Time Switch this weekend. The condition still exists.
I checked the voltage to the cold start valve after the Thermo Time Switch was installed. It briefly went to 8.5, then 9 (all in less than one second) then back to zero (not O.L)
The fuel check valve was serviced in 12/2006.
My 245 is running great. Love this car to death. I have been experiencing something weird. The car will start hard after sitting intermittently. It'll crank for 3 seconds and if I press the gas pedal it will fire right up. If I don't touch the pedal, itll will continue to crank...eventually sputtering and then firing. It will usually fore up right away if I don't let it sit for hours. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to a fuel prime issue, but that's kind of what it seems like to me. Are there any check valves or anything like that I could look into?
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2009 S60 2.5T that has trouble starting in temps around 25 degrees and below. It skips/hesitates when cranking.
View 7 RepliesI've had my '07 Volvo S40 2.4i for almost a year. It has a little over 60K miles on it and is serviced regularly. Within the last 3 months, I've noticed some weird things happening occasionally:
-Trouble starting when cold (I understand this is pretty common with a lot of cars.)
-Headlights & interior lights flickering
-Going over "bumps" in road causing dash display lights to illuminate for a second, radio to shut off, and loud system "BEEP" comes through the speakers (this has happened 3 times total, all on the same day.)
-AC stops cooling periodically I've had the system scanned for the AC issue and it seems that there was a "Pump pressure" message that cleared itself at one point and am guessing the same thing has happened the next few times it's done this.
I also asked that the battery be checked to see if it needed to be replaced soon. The mechanic said the battery was fine and thinks it's something wrong with the entire electrical system.
When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
View 2 RepliesI have been looking for a solution to a noise my 07 S60R GT has been making for about two months now. After a cold start there is a chriping/whistling noise that lasts a few minutes at idle. The noise will go away at idle but is constant under heavy load in any gear. The Volvo dealer told me it was the SNABB intake but the noise started well after I installed this with no noise initially. They said its not from sepentine belt or pulleys. It sounds as though its coming from the turbo area. Car still drives/pulls fine but makes shrieking / chirping / whistle when I get on it ( which is most of the time).
View 1 RepliesMy car will start but die. it either wont turn over or if it does, the engine goes right off. The radio and lights work though. the throttle & iacv were all good. i got it towed and the mechanic brought it in his garage at end of the day. He said it wouldn't start so they left it for monday. The thing is that my ignition sometimes gets stuck and leaves radio & interior lights on. So when they tried starting car on monday, it was dead. They put different battery on & it started right up. they said everything else was ok. they charged my battery & I had no problems. until today, 3 months later, same problem. both times it happen when I am leaving work & both times it was raining & cold. Could my battery be bad? also wonder if place really checked everything out likethey said.
View 5 RepliesMy mom has a 2002 Saturn l300 v6. She's never had any problems with it except having to get a new computer about a year ago. About 3 weeks ago she got rear ended and ever since then it has had trouble starting. The few times it did start, it wouldn't idle and died. She replaced the fuel injector, but it kept doing it.
It's been at the mechanics ever since then, and everything I've looked up says it might be the fuel pump itself, but that raises the question of wouldn't our mechanic have found it by now? I've been told that it's either wiring or the pump, but when I bring it up I'm shouted down because nobody thinks that it could be those things.
My coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
View 10 RepliesOccasionally, when restarting my 2003 Santa Fe V6,it refuses to idle. If I manually press on accelerator pedal it will start and run and after a few moments it will run fine. This seems to happen more often in high temps i.e., deserts.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford Explorer 4wd with 4.0 SOHC 6 cyl Flex Fuel. For months the vehicle has idle rough and increasingly becoming difficult to start. I decicded to replace the spark plugs and wires hoping to solve this issue! gap set to 052. When I started the vehicle it went into engine fail safe mode and wrench light came on. I then replaced the TPS on the throttle body and had no diference (I may have installed incorrectly! when I put it on the armature felt like it broke free inside the sensor). DTC codes read P0223, P2106, P2110 and with P0122 pending, P0223 pdg, P2106 pdg, & 2110 pdg.
With the old tps installed and wiring harness disconnected the truck will start in fail safe mode, but will not start at all with wire harness connected. A volt meter reads at computer end of wire plug 3.69 volts at pin one (gray/red wire +) and pin three (gray/white wire -) with key to on but not running.
[URL] I even pulled the same P0170 code. And what I need to do before I spend a boatload of money and wind up sleeping in my car instead of driving it to work or lack therof is to start a troubleshooting list starting from where Sabot's update left off, i dont even know where the vacuum line is that he mentions and if i sprayed carb cleaner on it would i get a jump in engine RPM or a stall as a test?
What I have done: Cleaned MAF sensor, changed fuel filter.
What I have not done: Checked all vacuum lines, Tested fuel pressure, Tested for compression issues due to blown head gasket.
there is also a puffing noise coming from the exhaust side of the engine, im gonna grab a bottle of baby powder this afternoon and test for air leaks, i dont believe it is a misfire...
Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
View 2 RepliesHaving trouble with my '00 Jetta 2.0 A/T w/ 98K miles. Had the water pump replaced @ a year ago (for the 2nd time, the 1st replacement died after <15K miles.) The car has had issues with rough idle when started, especially with a cold engine, since before the 2nd water pump. I've replaced the coil pack, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor in the recent past in addition to the water pump & timing belt.
The gas mileage sucks, and when it's idling rough it doesn't "idle up", & will stall if the gas pedal is pressed with 30 secs. of starting. Otherwise it seems to run fine. The coolant temp. sensor was replaced after a CEL indicating it was bad. The CEL went off after it was replaced, but it's now throwing a P1296 Cooling System Malfunction. I have noticed the temperature gauge fluctuates instead of staying around the "middle" since the 2nd water pump replacement, and will run "colder" in colder weather. Since spring is here, the temp. gauge stays around "normal", or the middle.
Some research online says thermostat OR coolant temperature sensor. Since the gauge registers normal now, I'm leaning towards a bad temp. sensor...?
Does the hard start/rough idle and the cooling system malfunction CEL could be related?
My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
View 4 RepliesI'm a diesel mechanic and know my way around Powerstrokes, this 4.0 is not what I would usually work on, but I have a friend who has 2006 explorer 4.0L SOHC, someone told him he needed a motor with out explanation why, so I didn't want to see him get ripped off. The problem is it idles very rough, hard to start, and stalls. There's no DTCs , if you hold the accelerator slightly it will stay running, but once you let off it will either idle really bad and misfire or cut off, once pushing the accelerator the rpms raise very smoothly up til 3500 which is what I assume the rev limit is in nuetral.
I've done checks with focom and forscan, I was thinking possibly a bad fuel pump, while monitoring fuel pressure I see a range of 289 - 326 kpa with 26% fuel pump I guess duty cycle would be the correct term(once again I'm a diesel guy, and use to dealing with IPRs and Hpops) not sure if the desired fuel pressure is relevant on these but it always stays at 269kpa. I believe that equals out to 40-48psi while I believe this system is supposed to have somewhere in the range of 60 - 70, but I wouldn't expect to get a rough idle with no load with almost 50 psi of fuel pressure.
So with no DTCs Im baffled, and don't want to start wasting money just throwing parts at it. I've thought everything from fuel pressure sensor, to coil pack(replaced 4 months ago) to crank and cam sensors.
I did end up getting a code p106, but I believe this is because I didnt tighten the intake hose after checking the throttle bottle, I just slid it back on. out of the 4 days of testing first time I seen a code pop up besides unplugging some sensors here and there to make sure the pcm would actually register a dtc.
I have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
06 F250 6.0 with only 65,xxx miles on it. This has happened twice and both times the engine was warm and had been cut off for less than 10 min.. When I tried to crank it back up it stumbled and idle roughly then cut off. After several attempts to re-crank it still would idle rough and I tried to give it fuel but no change, even with pedal fully depressed. Then it would die.
After sitting a few minutes it starts normal. Both times I didn't have my obd2 adapter for my torque pro. The last time it happened I went home and hooked it up and got no codes. Everything looked fine. What could it be, where should I start looking. Batteries are1.5 years old. Oil, oil filter, and both fuel filter changed about 1000 miles back. I have had the truck for 1.5 years and the oil has been changed twice.
As a follow up to my problem of intermittent stall and hard start, it is getting more pronounced. Now, every once in a while, it will start. Mostly it will not start.
This morning I connected an OBD2 meter with the key on and engine off. It told me that there are no DTC's. As I was attempting to run enhanced DTC's the code reader lost link with the computer. The connection icon was on but it lost the link. At one point, after several tries, I got the link back but it didn't last too long before it was lost again.
This is the same symptom that I have with running the engine. It will run and then shut off. After a hard start, it will start and run just fine and then shut off again.
My question is this. Can I still have power to the PCM and loose power to the processor? Is there a fuse or relay that could be causing this problem? If not, could the problem be a faulty PCM.
My 2003 7.3 f250 has trouble starting whenever the temperature is less than 65 degrees. If it is less than 50 degrees I have to plug it in for it to start. Once it starts it runs rough. I let it warm up and it still runs rough. Once I start down the road I'll get on it a bit and it takes off like something lets loose. It then runs geat for the rest of the day but does seem to still crank a little more than it should when I restart it through out the day.
The pickup has 152000k
List of repairs I have done to the truck:
-new gpr
-new glow plugs
-new uvch both sides
-new valve cover gaskets
-new blue cps
-new fuel filter
-new batteries everstart maxx 65n
The truck has an afe air intake, straight exhaust, and a super chips tuner set on mileage saving. It blows white smoke when first started but clears up pretty quick.