I just got my car back from an accident and it immediately started leaking oil. They determined it was a cracked oil pan. They can either
1) weld it
2) replace it with a used one
3) replace it with a new one
I understand because it's foreign that it will be expensive but never saw this coming. I'm not quite sure what the best choice is for me to do. I would like to save money but don't want future problems with my volvo c70 2001.
I got into my 2000 V70 Turbo and noticed that someone had cracked the gear shift box. I didn't know what to think so I checked to see if they messed with the gear shift (automatic transmission) and thus were trying to steal the car by moving the gear shift into neutral and pushing my baby away. Nope. Gear shift looked ok. I put my key in and the car was totally dead. I popped the hood, looked about, then looked at my main fuse box. Someone pulled my air pump relay fuse. Oh boy! I went back to the gear shift to see if they messed with my emergency brake. I can't tell. So, I called the police and filed a police report. Here's my question: By pulling the Air pump relay--is someone trying to kill my ABS brakes and then when I'm cruising down the highway I have no ABS and my emergency brake is gone? Very scary thought here. Is my thinking clear, or is there another reason to remove the air pump relay and break into my gear shift box?
View 19 RepliesMy fuel filter housing has cracked and i need to replace it. I have been told by volvo that i need to have it programed is this true or not ???
View 1 RepliesWhat are signs the intake manifold may be cracked? 2001 V10 Excursion....
View 4 RepliesI own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t with Gti front end. So I was driving downtown the other day and I bottomed out really hard and cracked my oil pan. I didn't realize it was cracked and leaking so I drove it home, drove fine with no issues at all. When I got home I parked it and went inside and in the morning I came out and tuned it on for maybe ten seconds. It made a really loud ticking sound that was constant and oil pressure was almost all the way down. So I shut it off and looked and saw the oil pan. I fixed the oil pan yesterday and started it up and it sounded really good and drives fine. But I've been hearing a pretty decently loud ticking sound when everything's up to temp and warmed up. The ticking is only at an idle and it drives like it use to just sounds bad at an idle. Some people think it's my oil pump and tensioner, some people thing I ruined the turbo and possibly internals.
View 4 RepliesIt seems that the install of my Doug Thorley headers didn't go as well as I thought. Turns out the passenger side header melted the bracket holding the heater lines and then punctured one of the lines when it rubbed against the header. Right now I'm not sure what to do. I noticed the melted bracket and pulled the fender well, but that's when I noticed the leak. I guess some of the melted plastic was keeping it from leaking everywhere until I removed it. I live in AZ so the rear heater isn't really necessary so if a stop gap measure is to bypass it then I'm game but I can't find any info on how to do it. If the only real solution is to get the entire line replaced then I'm a bit hosed I guess. 2001 V-10 4x4 BTW.
View 6 Replies2001 Oldsmobile Alero, 4cyl, purchased in March with around 150k miles.About a month and a half ago I topped off the coolant. 2-3 weeks ago I noticed the exhaust was intermittently throwing off white smoke. Not thick, opaque plumes or anything, but more like how your exhaust might look on a cold day. Being May though, I knew the temperature was not responsible.
This white smoke would occur intermittently and usually stop after driving for a a little bit. Since the white smoke was not constant and the coolant levels seemed to be okay I figured maybe it was something with the EVAP system or the fuel mixture. On a hunch and as a matter of maintenance I put in new Oxygen sensors a few days ago. The next day my coolant light went off again. Since then I've put radiator stop-leak in the coolant and some STP "gasket rejuvenator" in the oil.
My theory: if the head gasket is indeed cracked, it's a very small crack--small enough so that after the engine warms up a bit the gasket expands essentially sealing the crack. This would explain the intermittent nature of the white smoke and and slowness of coolant leak. Are there any other tell-tale signs I should look for with a bad gasket, if this indeed that case? I saw in the store some stuff similar to stop-leak specifically designed for sealing head gaskets that involved draining the radiator, dumping this stuff in and running the engine for a bit, draining it out, and letting the car sit for a day before putting new coolant in. If the head gasket is the issue would the combination of stop leak.
My 2001 volvo S60 starts then dies.
View 2 RepliesLast month my 2001 Volvo s60, just shy of 100K needed maintenance - i'm the original owner planned to have this car for many more years - let the dealer do 95K scheduled maintenance, new breaks, timing belt and more - for just until $4k. Yesterday my transmission stopped working. Dealer says $5500 to fix. Husband is done and wants to pull the plugs it worth fixing? Is this something dealer should have seen coming at last service?
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 S80 Volvo (91,000 miles) has a problem--when I put it in reverse, apply the gas, the car will not move. Sometimes if I shift back to park and then back to reverse, the car moves, but with a clunking sound and it feels as if the car just went over a small rock. At other times it will not move at all. I had a new transmission put in November and a week ago the car would not move out of my garage. A day later when I tried to reverse out of the garage, it did so without any noise or hesitation. The repair shop kept it again for 4 days, ran another bunch of tests and could find nothing. The car drives just fine on the road--still has great acceleration. The problem is driving me nuts--I am afraid to take it out at times as I don't know when it might not reverse. what is wrong with this car?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Volvo S60 and yesterday, when I took out the HVAC unit out of the dash to try and change two small light bulbs (only had to remove 2 torx screws and unplug the unit), the SRS AIRBAG URGENT light went out. Needless to say, the airbags are fine. How can I get the airbag light off?
View 3 RepliesOn my daughter's 2001 S60, there are lights under each mirror. The bulbs appear to be okay.
When do these lights come on? I don't recall ever seeing them.
Just curious, while I go out tonight to investigate another Bulb Failure warning. :-( I know it won't be the mirror, but this does get tiresome!
I own a 2001 Volvo S40. At first I had a problem getting it to stay running on the first start. Before when I started the car it would stall the first or second time. Then I would give it a little gas, let off and it would bog down under 750 rpms then jump up to 750 and run fine. The car would start great afterwards as long as I started it within a few hours. If I let it sit overnight I would run into the same problem as mentioned before. That was then and this is now. The last time the car ran I noticed the car would not fully warm up. It was like 30 degrees outside and the fans only blew cold air. The temp gauge stayed on the cold side the whole ride home (roughly 35 miles).
The next day it was still about 30 degrees outside and when I went to start the car the car it stalled. I tried to start it again and gave it some gas but when I let off the gas pedal the car shut off. I tried again with the same results. The next time I keep my foot on the gas for a good minute. The car would rev up no problem but once I let off the gas the car would stall. I figured it was the cold weather. So the next it was beautiful (close to 60). I tried to start it again with the same results as the previous day. That was a few days ago. Since then, I've tried a few times but to no avail.
I bought the car with 108,000 miles on it from a dealer. Since then I've put about 17,000 miles on it and haven't done any maintenance to it. Absolutely none. No oil change, plugs, air filter, etc. I wanted to keep it to myself but am trying to be completely honest to ensure proper troubleshooting. I did check the oil level and it was ok. Also, I have about half a tank of gas in the tank. I believe it could be numerous issues.
Is it possible to just change the Air Conditioner Clutch on the Air compressor for the volvo V70?it is rattling and all I can find online are new compressors.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Volvo V70. Yesterday I noticed that the low coolant light came on when I tried to start the car, but it went off after a minute or two. I kept an eye on the temperature gauge and didn't see anything amiss. When my wife tried to start the car this morning, the low coolant light came on again, but the car wouldn't start -- it turns over but sputters out after a second or two. I checked the coolant and it was indeed pretty low (should have done it the night before, I realize). So, I'm trying to figure out what's up here -- the car didn't seem to generally overheat, but something has gone wrong. Fuel pump or something similar?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Volvo S80 with about 200,000 miles and it died on me while driving. The battery is about 6 months old. The shop I took it to said the timing chain slipped and might have caused damage to the piston and head. Does this seem reasonable as the cause?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Volvo S60 T5 Turbo with 145K on it, lately when at a stop, in Drive, my idle fluctuates, dipping below 1K RPM where it normally is, fluctuating between 500-1K RPM. Note the spark plugs have nearly 100K on them, but otherwise, car runs great (besides lots of oddball suspension noises)
View 4 RepliesMy Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
View 10 RepliesFor over 1 year I've had a problem with my 2001 Volvo S60 only giving a "click" when I attempt to start it. Often when I repeat multiple times, it DOES START, but more often than not, it doesn't (at least right away).
I've replaced the battery, starter/solenoid and starter relay. Twice I've had it to the local Volvo dealer, and both times the mechanics said the problem was associated with "corrosion" on the solenoid blade. Once the mechanic just "wiggled" the connector, and the other time the blade was sanded to remove potential oxide/corrosion.
After replacing the starter/solenoid, it STILL didn't start, so I replaced the wire leading from the fuse-box, thinking that "wiggling" the connector may have degraded the crimp on it.
Now the car won't start AT ALL. I've tested the line from the fuse down to the wire to the solenoid, and the ECM only now gives a "pulse", rather than turning ON while the ignition is turned to START. I'm thinking that some other input is telling the ECM to NOT CONTINUE CRANKING.
So i've had this volvo for about 6 months now.I knew when I purchased it that the two codes being thrown were p0128-Engine coolant temperature, and p0420- Cat efficiency Bank 1.Inspecting mechanic said it needed a new cat to clear the p0420....I went ahead replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant to "fix" the p0128, and cleared the codes, I think the jiffy lube state inspector did not notice the that the catalytic converter test was Incomplete when he passed it. Lucky me I guess.
But now I know that I'll probably have to fix before it gets inspected again. Eventually the p0128 came back on, so I went and got a new ECT sensor. Still doesn't clear the p0128. What am i missing? Coolant temperature sits at a 3'oclock position pretty regularly and quickly. Where to start on the p0420 besides understanding its the Pre-cat o2 sensor that is throwing the code, is there anyway that these are related?
While on a recent 800 mile trip, by the end of it (on interstate driving) a roaring noise was coming from the from tires. A quick inspection showed nothing amiss. It's a 2001 Volvo XC70 with 108,000 miles. The Michelin tires were new at 100k. No shimmering or shaking at higher/lower speeds or changing lanes. Just the annoying new roar as the car gets going over 20mph.
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